Tackling Textile Waste in Europe – Germany, France and Italy under the loop
Textile waste has become an increasingly urgent environmental issue in Europe and globally, fuelled by the rise of (ultra) fast fashion and the increasing volumes of discarded clothing. The European Union faces a significant challenge, with approximately 6.95 million tonnes of textile waste generated in 2020 — averaging around 16 kg per person. Of this, only 4.4 kg per person was collected separately for reuse and recycling, while 11.6 kg per person ended up in mixed household waste.
On average, a whopping 82% of textile waste was post-consumer waste, household and non-household sources combined, followed by an additional post-industrial waste (17%) and pre-consumer waste, accounting for 1% (European Environment Agency, 2024).
Currently, only 22% of post-consumer textile waste in Europe is collected for reuse or recycling, with about 85% of Europe’s discarded textiles ending up in landfills or incinerated (McKinsey & Company, 2022).
These figures highlight the urgent need to invest in and scale up sorting and recycling capacities in Europe. Without such efforts, an increasing amount of collected textile waste risks being sent to the Global South, where it often ends up in landfills, further polluting the environment.
Countries like Germany, France, and Italy are at the forefront of addressing this challenge through a combination of innovative solutions, legislative frameworks, and industry collaborations. Let’s have a look into the different approaches of these three countries and how they can serve as a blueprint globally.
Germany – Efficiency and Challenges in Textile Waste Management
Germany is recognized as a leader in waste management, yet the country faces significant challenges with textile waste. Germans consume approximately 19 kilograms of textiles per person annually, generating around 1.56 million tonnes of textile waste each year (McKinsey & Company, 2022). Despite a national collection rate of around 64%, the majority of textiles collected are exported, often to countries in the global south with less developed waste management infrastructures (Umweltbundesamt T. 3., 2022). Projections indicate that by 2025, textile waste per capita in Germany will increase to 17 kilograms, nearing two million tonnes annually (bvse).
The primary collection method in Germany happens through depot containers, which account for 88% of collected textiles. However, the high operational costs and declining quality of collected textiles pose significant challenges to the recycling process. The amount of textiles identified as waste during sorting has doubled, while reused textiles decreased by 7% in 2020 compared to 2015 (bvse).
Additionally, in cities like Berlin, there is a culture of “zu verschenken,” where people leave their old clothes and other items on the street for others to take for free. While this practice is well-intentioned, it often results in clothes being left in poor condition, effectively becoming waste. This underscores the growing need to raise awareness among citizens about how and where to properly dispose of old garments.
France – A Frontrunner in Legislation
France has been a pioneer in legislative efforts to address textile waste, becoming the first country in the world to establish a legal framework for managing textile waste through an Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) policy as early as 2007. With this framework, all businesses producing clothing and textiles for the French market are responsible for the end-of-life management of their products (King, 2024). However, while this law represents a significant step forward, its effectiveness is limited because compliance is voluntary for the industry. A more binding framework covering the entire supply chain would likely be more effective in ensuring widespread adherence.
In 2022, France strengthened its commitment to waste reduction with the implementation of the Anti-Waste and Circular Economy Law. This law mandates that producers, importers, and distributors must give, reuse, or recycle their unsold products. It also introduces measures such as requiring items to be repairable, compostable, or recyclable, with sanctions for non-compliance. Additionally, the law mandates that plastic filters be installed in washing machines by 2025 to limit the release of microfibers into the ocean, significantly reducing pollution (COSH!, 2022).
France’s EPR scheme for textiles is managed by Refashion, a Producer Responsibility Organization (PRO) accredited by French authorities. Refashion oversees the collection, recycling, and disposal of textiles, with over 44,000 collection points across the country (King, 2024; Wilson, 2021). Despite this robust infrastructure, the recycling operations are not yet fully industrialized or profitable, underscoring the need for continued investment in sorting and recycling technologies to manage the growing volumes of textile waste.
One of the significant gaps in France’s EPR system is the monitoring of used clothing sold through online platforms, which complicates the recycling process. Addressing this gap, along with measures such as their tax on fast fashion, could enhance the effectiveness of France’s efforts to manage textile waste and promote a more sustainable fashion industry.
Italy – Tradition Meets Innovation
Italy is recognized for its rich textile heritage, particularly in regions like Prato, which has become a leader in textile recycling and waste management. Prato has developed an extensive system for processing post-consumer textiles, mainly focusing on wool recycling. The city houses several small and medium-sized businesses that specialize in different stages of textile production and recycling. This region is responsible for recycling a significant portion of Italy’s textile waste, with figures indicating that Prato processes approximately 22,000 tonnes of wool each year (ETC CE Report, 2024; Dahlbom et al., 2023).
In terms of overall textile waste management, Italy produced about 480,000 tonnes of textile waste in 2019, with 50% coming from the textile industry, 30% from urban waste sorting, and the remaining 20% from other activities (Consorzio Detox, 2022). Italy was also the first European country to mandate the separate collection of textile waste as of January 1, 2022, in an effort to comply with and exceed EU directives on circular economy practices (Consorzio Detox, 2022).
Despite these efforts, Italy faces several challenges, particularly the need for greater investment in recycling technologies and infrastructure, as well as addressing the fragmented nature of the country’s waste management system. Although Italy has the highest number of sorting and recycling facilities in Europe, particularly in Prato, precise statistics on sorting and recycling are difficult to obtain due to the overlap between preparation for reuse and recycling processes (ETC CE Report, 2024; The Unique Magazine, 2022).
Possible Solutions Towards a Unified European Strategy
Germany, France, and Italy each provide valuable insights into addressing the growing issue of textile waste. Germany’s focus on improving collection and sorting mechanisms, France’s legislative leadership through EPR, and Italy’s blend of tradition and modernity highlight the diverse strategies employed across Europe. However, the challenges these countries face indicate that a more unified and comprehensive approach is needed across the continent. What also becomes crystal clear is how Europe generally needs to invest more into sorting waste and support R&D in textile recycling. Here are some potential solutions and strategies that could be adopted to enhance textile waste management on a European scale.
1. Enhanced Collection Systems
Integrating advanced collection systems with AI and sensor technologies could help optimize the sorting and recycling processes. For example, Sensoneo has developed waste fill level monitoring through the use of ultrasonic beams. These technologies can streamline collection routes and improve the accuracy of sorting, thereby increasing the efficiency of recycling operations (Sensoneo, 2024).
2. Investment in Recycling Technologies
A substantial increase in investment in innovative recycling technologies, particularly for mixed fibres, is essential for the sustainability of textile recycling processes. According to McKinsey & Company, an investment of €6 to €7 billion by 2030 could enable fibre-to-fibre recycling to manage 18–26% of gross textile waste, potentially generating profits of €1.5 to €2.2 billion and reducing CO2 emissions by approximately 4 million tons (McKinsey & Company, 2022).
3. Expansion of Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) Schemes
Expanding EPR regulations across Europe could ensure that producers are held accountable for the entire lifecycle of their products. This would help to promote eco-design from the outset, encouraging manufacturers to create products that are easier to recycle, repair, or upcycle. However, for EPR schemes to be truly effective, they should include mandatory compliance rather than relying on voluntary participation.
4. Eco-Design and Design for Longevity
Designing products with longevity in mind is a critical strategy for reducing textile waste. Eco-design involves the systematic integration of environmental aspects from the design and development stages, ensuring that products are made to last longer, can be easily repaired, or are biodegradable. This approach reduces the environmental impact of textiles throughout their lifecycle.
5. Promotion of Repair, Upcycling, and Take-Back Programs
Encouraging consumers to return their old clothes through take-back programs, and offering incentives for repairing garments rather than discarding them, can significantly reduce textile waste. Upcycling, where designers repurpose old textiles into new garments, is another effective strategy that not only reduces waste but also creates unique fashion pieces.
6. Second-Hand Markets and Clothing Rentals
Promoting second-hand markets and clothing rentals as alternatives to purchasing new items can help curb the demand for fast fashion. By extending the life of existing garments through these practices, the pressure on production and waste management systems is reduced. This shift towards a more circular economy is essential for sustainable consumption.
7. Zero-Waste Pattern Cutting and Biodegradable Materials
Adopting zero-waste pattern cutting techniques and using biodegradable materials in the design stage are forward-thinking strategies that can drastically reduce textile waste. These methods ensure that minimal fabric is wasted during production and that the end products have a lower environmental footprint when they reach the end of their useful life.
Conclusion
By joining forces and prioritizing collaboration between countries within the EU, sharing best practices and knowledge, and investing in new technologies, Europe can lead the way in creating a more sustainable future for the textile industry. The road ahead is challenging to say the least, but with a genuine effort and more investment for innovation, the vision of a circular economy for textiles is within reach. A unified European strategy that incorporates these solutions will not only address the current issues but also pave the way for a more sustainable and responsible fashion industry.
Inge Duiker
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