The man who wore Dior now wears Zara. Should we be happy?
John Galliano returns to the atelier. But the collaboration with the Spanish giant Inditex raises questions that the press release hasn’t yet answered. In January 2026, in Paris, a women’s dress designed by John Galliano for Dior sold at auction for € 637,500. A few weeks later, the same designer announced he would be working for Zara. Not for a six-piece capsule collection to be photographed on Instagram—for two years, with seasonal collections, drawing on the Spanish brand’s archive. If you had a strange feeling reading these two sentences one after the other, that’s understandable. It doesn’t necessarily mean it’s wrong. It means it’s complicated. And complicated things deserve to…
Recycled polyester releases more microplastics
When the sustainable solution may make the problem worse. In recent years, recycled polyester has become the symbol of “eco-friendly” fashion: promoted as a virtuous alternative to virgin polyester, it has been adopted by dozens of global brands as a strategy to reduce the industry’s environmental impact. However, a recent scientific study raises serious doubts about the true sustainability of this fiber and challenges a previously widespread and little-examined narrative. The results of the “Spinning Greenwash” study The Changing Markets Foundation, a nonprofit organization working on environmental sustainability, commissioned research from the Microplastic Research Group at Çukurova University (Turkey) to compare the release of microplastics between recycled and virgin polyester…
Shein Paradox in France: Online Shop Suspended
Shein opened its first permanent store in France, inside the BHV Marais, a central Paris institution, on November 5, 2025. On the same day, the French government announced the initiation of a procedure to suspend access to Shein’s online site until it demonstrates full compliance with national laws. The decision came after the French consumer watchdog (DGCCRF) discovered disturbing ads on the Shein marketplace: sex dolls with “child-like” features and even prohibited weapons, such as machetes and large knives. In response, Shein announced a global ban on the sale of sex dolls on the platform, temporarily suspended the “adult products” category in France, and took action against the responsible sellers.…
Gucci, Chloé, and Loewe sanctioned by the European Commission: what this means for sustainable and ethical fashion
On October 14, 2025, the Commission fined three major luxury brands—Gucci, Chloé, and Loewe—a total of €157 million (approximately US$182 million) for restrictive practices regarding retail price revaluation. According to the Commission, the three brands imposed conditions on their independent retailers that limited their pricing autonomy (both online and in-store), defining maximum discounts, predetermined sales periods, or even prohibiting certain discounts. Gucci received the highest fine (approximately €119.7 million), Chloé about €19.7 million, and Loewe €18 million. The fines were reduced thanks to the brands’ cooperation with investigators. Why it matters For the first time in the luxury fashion sector, the Commission highlights that price-control practices can constitute a violation…
Luxurywashing: Does luxury rhyme with ethics?
If we were to ask those who buy designer clothes worth thousands of euros whether they believe these products are more sustainable, many would likely say yes. The high price is often interpreted as a guarantee of quality, traceability, and respect for labor rights. However, the recent scandal involving Loro Piana—a historic Italian cashmere brand under investigation for labor exploitation—undermines this belief. And it’s not an isolated case. Max Mara, Dior, Armani, Valentino are among other luxury brands recently implicated in cases of poor labor conditions. It points to a deeper issue. In this article-podcast, we explore the phenomenon of luxurywashing—the construction of a “green and ethical” image that masks…
“You’re Obese”: The Dark Tale of the Workers Behind the Glitter
When fashion forgets who sews it In the 1960s and 1970s, female textile workers in Reggio Emilia went on strike in major factories like Confit, Bloch, Maska, Max Mara, and not just for wages. They demanded rights over their bodies, their health, their time. They worked in environments saturated with fibers, standing for hours, with night shifts that left no room for motherhood, life, dignity. Those women, often invisible in the union narratives of the time, brought a new urgency to the heart of the factories: the struggle was not just economic. It was existential. In cases like Max Mara, the workers demanded recognition of the trade unions and national…
Silk waste between innovation and sustainability: interview with Cosetex
Silk is synonymous with luxury and glamour, but did you know that it can also be an innovative and environmentally friendly material? In the new episode of our podcast, we interviewed Silvio Mandelli, CEO of Cosetex, a company with over 120 years of experience in the recovery of silk waste. Cosetex has revolutionized the industry by transforming what was once considered waste into new opportunities: natural padding, high-quality yarns and collaborations with the denim world. Silvio tells us about the environmental benefits of silk, such as its ability to capture CO2 and the fact that it does not produce plastic microfibers. But what does “silk waste” really mean? How did…
The Gentle Revolution of Slow Fiber
In this episode we meet Dario Casalini, founder of Slow Fiber, the project created in collaboration between Slow Food Italy and some virtuous Italian textile companies. Dario tells us about the need for a “gentle revolution” to counter the fast fashion model, in a context in which the economy shifts wealth from many to few without actually creating well-being for humanity. Slow Fiber wants to positively change the paradigm of production, consumption and, therefore, the perception of textiles. Today, in fact, we find ourselves immersed in a consumerist and fast-fashion lifestyle, as Dario states. Slow Fiber uses a series of KPIs (Key Performance Indicators) to evaluate the companies that join…
Transforming Fashion: Embracing Made-to-Order Models for Sustainability
The fashion industry, once synonymous with creativity and expression, now grapples with its own demons: overproduction, environmental degradation, and ethical concerns. As awareness of the harsh realities of fast fashion spreads worldwide, an increasing number of voices are advocating for change. In this evolving landscape, the emergence of made-toorder business models offers a ray of hope—a chance to fundamentally transform the fashion industry. The Dark Side of Fashion Fashion’s current trajectory is not just concerning—it’s downright alarming. The relentless production of clothing by fast fashion large corporations, not only overwhelms landfills but also poses a significant threat to our oceans, our communities, and our collective conscience. The sheer volume of…
Penalties and advertising ban: France stops fast fashion companies
The French National Assembly has unanimously adopted the bill aimed at reducing the environmental impact of the textile industry, which will have to continue its legislative process in the Senate. Intended to curb “fast fashion”, the text provides: the ban on advertising for the sale of clothing at rock-bottom prices the decision to define fast fashion based on a set number of items placed on the market annually an enhanced environmental penalty to make fast fashion products less attractive Furthermore, companies that sell disposable fashion online will have to display messages near the price on their website that: raise awareness of the environmental impact of their products; encourage sobriety, reuse,…
