How the clothes we wear shape our thoughts — and why that has a lot to say for sustainable fashion

Enclothed cognition refers to the way clothing influences psychological processes such as thoughts, feelings, and behaviors, both through physical sensation and symbolic meaning. Research shows that this effect depends both on the associations we make when we wear clothes and on the physical experience. In recent years, this phenomenon has opened a fascinating window into the relationship between what we wear and what we think, feel, and do.

The coat that sharpened the mind

It all starts with a now-classic study, published in 2012 by Hajo Adam and Adam D. Galinsky in Journal of Experimental Social Psychology. The researchers had a group of participants wear a white doctor’s coat and complete some attention tests. The result? They performed significantly better than those who performed the same tasks in normal clothes—or even than those who had the coat before their eyes, but not on them.

The key detail is precisely this: it wasn’t enough to see the coat. You had to wear it. And you had to know what it represented.

According to Adam and Galinsky, enclothed cognition works through two simultaneous channels: the physical sensation of the fabric on the body and the symbolic meaning that sensation activates. The doctor’s coat isn’t just a garment—it’s a cultural code that evokes care, rigor, and responsibility. When we put it on, that code enters us. Their study formally defines the phenomenon as “the systematic influence of clothing on psychological processes,” emphasizing that this effect depends both on the physical act of wearing the garment and on the understanding of its symbolic meaning.

Not just lab coats: clothes always speak

Once the logic is understood, examples multiply everywhere.

Those who work from home know that staying in their pajamas until the afternoon has a real cognitive cost: it’s difficult to feel productive without the ritual of “getting dressed.” Conversely, many professionals report keeping their jackets on even during video conferences during lockdown—not to look good, but to feel in character.

Athletes are not immune: studies on so-called power dressing show that wearing uniforms perceived as “champion-like” affects confidence and even physical performance. Colors matter, shapes matter, and the weight of the fabric matters.

There’s one example that’s striking for its precision: a study (Dubois & Anik, Emerald 2022) showed that wearing heels makes women feel more powerful than when they wear flats—but only under one condition: that the heels are visible to the observer. When they’re hidden, the effect vanishes. This confirms that cognition is activated not only by the physical sensation, but by the social recognition of the symbol.

Enclothed mood

And then there’s the emotional side: what we call enclothed mood—the effect that a favorite, comforting, or simply “right” outfit has on our mood on difficult days.

Professor Karen Pine of the University of Hertfordshire (2014) documented a distinct connection between mood and clothing choices: when they feel sad or depressed, women tend to wear jeans, and when they’re stressed, their world narrows to the point where they wear only 10% of their wardrobe, ignoring everything else. This effect occurs due to the combination of the symbolic meaning attributed to the garment and the physical experience of wearing it.

The mechanism also works in reverse: Pine has developed a list of “happy clothes“—garments that tend to induce positive emotional states—identifying characteristics such as:

• natural fibers (linen, cotton, silk, wool)
• flowing fabrics
• bright colors
• and vintage pieces

all of which evoke positive symbolic associations for the wearer.

What if the dress also spoke about the planet?

So far, so science. But there’s an even more interesting, yet less explored, territory: what happens when the clothing we wear is sustainable?

Applying the logic of enclothed cognition to ethical consumption opens up a territory still little explored by research. If a white coat activates values ​​of care and precision, a garment made with more eco-friendly materials, ethically produced, consciously chosen, or a second-hand dress could activate something similar: a sense of responsibility toward the environment, of coherence with one’s values, of belonging to a different vision of the world.

It’s a fascinating hypothesis that we’re advancing, and one that we at Dress ECOde intend to explore with empirical tools. Some researchers have already begun exploring this area. In 2025, Cegarra-Navarro and colleagues at the Polytechnic University of Cartagena (2025) published the first study formally using the concept of “sustainable enclothed cognition” (SEC) in Journal of Intellectual Capital: the idea that low-impact clothing can evoke values ​​of respect for the ecosystem, reinforcing more sustainability-oriented behaviors and mindsets in its wearers. The study—conducted on 211 young workers—shows that when consumers choose sustainable clothing by integrating logic, emotion, and values, the connection with the brand deepens and translates into measurable relational capital for companies.

Wearing a sustainable garment knowing it is, according to this logic, would function as a physical and continuous reminder of one’s ecological values. The idea is that clothing made with low-impact materials can evoke values ​​of respect for the ecosystem, reinforcing more sustainability-oriented behaviors and mindsets in its wearers.

Does dressing sustainably really change behavior?

Thinking through the lens of enclothed cognition, the answer isn’t straightforward. Let’s consider some interesting findings from the research, even if the picture is more nuanced than one might hope.

A first finding concerns the perception of value. Industry studies show that consumers perceive sustainable garments as having superior quality and greater value, which translates into higher brand loyalty and a lower propensity for compulsive purchasing typical of fast fashion. Those who wear consciously chosen garments tend to associate them with a sense of environmental responsibility, spontaneously embracing more streamlined and less wasteful wardrobes.

A second phenomenon, which the literature calls spillover behavior, is even more interesting: the adoption of virtuous behavior tends to spread to other areas of life. A study published in Fashion and Textiles (2016) documented how consumers’ recycling behavior spills over into eco-friendly fashion purchases through a specific mediating mechanism: environmental concern. Translated: those who already recycle tend to purchase more ethical fashion, and the process also works in reverse. Pro-environmental behaviors are not independent of one another—they feed off one another. A communication strategy focused on a single virtuous behavior can, over time, trigger a cascade of broader choices.

A study published in Scientific Reports (2025) adds another piece: direct experience with sustainable products can lower the psychological threshold for similar future choices, reducing the perceived risk of purchasing less familiar circular products.

A fourth interesting effect concerns long-term changes. Available evidence indicates that consumers who have had positive experiences with ethical fashion show a lower overall purchase frequency—prioritizing quality over quantity—and a longer lifespan for each item, all of which benefits textile waste reduction.

Taken together, these four elements—the perception of superior value, spillover behavior between pro-environmental behaviors, reduced psychological risk for future choices, and the tendency to prioritize quality and durability—paint a coherent picture, albeit one still riddled with question marks. It’s something that closely resembles what we might call sustainable enclothed cognition. It’s not enough to buy a sustainable garment, just as it wasn’t enough to see a doctor’s coat. You have to wear it knowing what it represents. It’s the conscious meaning—not the recycled fabric itself—that can trigger change. If this mechanism applies to cognitive precision and a sense of empowerment, it could also apply to ecological responsibility. Sustainable clothing, worn with intention, would then become something more than a simple ethical purchase: a physical and continuous reminder of who one has chosen to be—and how one has chosen to be in the world. A symbolic value that, once activated, isn’t confined to the moment of purchase but guides behavior in a broader and more lasting way, choosing fewer, more meaningful pieces. Every time one wears that piece with awareness, one’s identity would be strengthened, and that identity would make choices consistent with it more natural.

What if it doesn’t work?

The research doesn’t hide the contradictions. A 2025 study of 1,009 American consumers published in PMC found that those who buy secondhand often consume more overall, not less. Purchasing behavior in secondhand stores is positively correlated with that in fast fashion stores, especially among younger consumers.

This is the so-called rebound effect, amplified by what psychologists call moral licensing: one feels virtuous for choosing secondhand, and that feeling of “moral credit” authorizes one to buy more elsewhere. Their conscience is clear, their wardrobe grows.

And it doesn’t end there. The same study on spillover behavior warns that the effect weakens—or disappears entirely—when the aesthetic quality of the sustainable product disappoints. Consumers are increasingly willing to support eco-friendly practices, but only if the garment is also beautiful. An unconventional design or one perceived as aesthetically risky can block any spillover. Sustainability alone isn’t enough: we need products that are both environmentally friendly and aesthetically pleasing.

Research confirms this: consumers of sustainable fashion associate these garments with greater quality and longevity, but there’s still a gulf between this perception and real, measurable behavioral change. And some research warns of a paradoxical effect: those who buy secondhand or ethical fashion don’t necessarily buy less overall—sometimes they simply buy more, through different channels.

The practical implications if it worked instead

Despite the contradictions, the potential of sustainable enclothed cognition is too compelling to ignore. If the mechanism works, the consequences extend far beyond the individual consumer.

Companies could rethink their uniforms as tools of organizational culture. Equipping employees with eco-friendly workwear isn’t just an external communication choice—it could concretely reinforce sustainability values ​​in the wearer’s daily attitude, influencing decisions and brand perceptions from within. Cegarra-Navarro and colleagues formulate it bluntly: clothing choices act as a form of nonverbal communication and are an integral part of creating sustainable corporate practices.

On the marketing front, the phenomenon offers a powerful yet underutilized argument: instead of communicating sustainability solely through certifications and numbers—how much CO₂ has been saved, how many bottles have been recycled—brands could convey what it feels like to wear an ethical garment. The sense of responsibility, consistency, and authenticity could be a much more effective lever for engagement than aesthetics or price.

And then there’s the minimalist wardrobe. Having fewer, more meaningful pieces, carefully chosen and worn over long periods of time, is exactly the kind of relationship with clothing that enclothed cognition values. A small wardrobe that’s consistent with your values ​​isn’t a sacrifice—it’s an identity enhancer.

Let’s try to imagine

If enclothed cognition works through the combination of physical sensation and conscious symbolic meaning, we can try to think about how the same mechanism could be activated with sustainable clothing—even if no one has yet rigorously measured it.

Let’s take a concrete example. Every morning, a person puts on an upcycled sweatshirt, purchased from a brand whose supply chain they know. They know how it’s made, they know what it represents. According to the logic of enclothed cognition, that garment isn’t just a warm garment: it’s a physical reminder, worn for hours, of one’s intention to consume differently. Much like the doctor’s coat activated attention and rigor, that sweatshirt could activate—with each subsequent purchase—a higher threshold of awareness. Not because the fabric has magical properties, but because the meaning we attribute to it silently guides our behavior.

Or again: imagine a manufacturing employee given uniforms made from recovered fabrics with a precise explanation of how and why they were produced. Not an institutional communication forgotten in an email, but something they wear every day. The logic of enclothed cognition suggests that that gesture—consciously wearing a symbol of corporate values—could strengthen identification with those same values ​​far more than any sustainability training course.

A third example concerns those who choose secondhand with intention—not to save money, but out of conviction. If that person knows the history of the garment, knows where it comes from, and has deliberately chosen it as an alternative to new, they might experience that garment as an active statement of identity. And according to the mechanism Adam and Galinsky described, that statement wouldn’t remain merely external: it would re-enter, day after day, the way that person thinks about themselves and their choices.

These are hypotheses, not certainties. But they are hypotheses based on the same logic that produced measurable results with doctor’s coats and high heels. They are worth putting to the test.

An open territory: Dress ECOde’s contribution

Enclothed cognition reminds us of something we know intuitively but tend to overlook: clothes are not neutral. They are not passive containers of our bodies—they are active constructors of our selves.

If this applies to a doctor’s coat, it could also apply to a recycled wool sweater chosen with intention, a secondhand jacket purchased with awareness of its history, or an ethically produced dress worn with pride. The skin touching the fabric, the meaning we recognize in that fabric: the mechanism is the same.

But it “couldn’t” be enough. The available research raises more questions than it answers, and the direct connection between enclothed cognition and long-term sustainable behavior remains to be empirically demonstrated with the rigor it deserves.

This is why at Dress ECOde, we’re interested in contributing to the study of this phenomenon: understanding whether and how dressing sustainably—not just buying ethical products, but wearing them with awareness of their meaning—can become a real driver of cultural change toward more conscious clothing choices.

The question that guides us is simple, even if the answer isn’t: can the right dress, worn with the right awareness, change the way we think and act in the world? We believe it’s worth finding out.

Linen

Obtained from the flax plant, it is natural, biodegradable, breathable, and cool: perfect for summer.
Optimal care: delicate machine wash in cold or warm water (maximum 30°C), without harsh spin cycles; use a mild detergent; air dry preferably. Ironing while still slightly damp at a moderately high temperature reduces creases. It tends to crease; this is normal and has its own reason.

Hemp

Robust, hypoallergenic, breathable fibers that improve with every wash: from stiff to softer over time.

Eco-friendly care: Machine wash cold or delicate cycle (maximum 30-40°C), natural soap, avoid chlorinated bleaches; air dry or dry at low temperature; iron at medium temperature. It tends to shrink slightly initially and becomes more comfortable after a few washes.

Nettle

An exceptional material, highly sustainable thanks to pesticide-free cultivation and low water consumption.
Recommended care: Hand wash or delicate machine wash with water up to 30°C; air dry, away from direct sunlight; iron at low temperature; avoid intense rubbing and harsh bleaches.

TENCEL / Lyocell (from eucalyptus cellulose)

Regenerated fiber derived from cellulose, biodegradable and uses less water than traditional cotton.
Optimal care: Hand wash preferred, or machine wash on a delicate cycle with cold or warm water (maximum 30°C) and a protective bag; Avoid high temperatures to prevent shrinkage (often 3 to 5%). Dry flat or hang in the shade, without using the dryer; iron at low heat, without steam, and with a cloth between the iron and the fabric. Avoid fabric softeners.

Recycled cotton

Derived from pre- or post-consumer waste, it drastically reduces the use of water, pesticides, and soil compared to conventional cotton. It is an ethical choice, but with shorter and more delicate fibers.
Recommended care: Machine wash cold (max 30°C) on a gentle cycle with a small load; dry naturally, avoiding the dryer to avoid stressing the fibers; iron at low heat. To increase its lifespan, wash only when necessary and with gentle, eco-friendly detergents.

Organic cotton

Sustainably grown, without pesticides or GMOs, GOTS or Oeko-Tex certified, it is machine washable and versatile.
Gentle care: Wash at up to 30°C for colors (40°C for light-colored items), gentle cycle; air dry is preferable; iron at low or medium heat; wash colors separately to avoid fading. Tends to shrink slightly.

Tips:

Follow the washing instructions on your garment’s care label. Air drying is always the most eco-friendly choice: it reduces energy consumption, preserves fibers, and extends the life of your garments. In summer, ironing is often unnecessary: many natural fabrics like linen and hemp soften with use, and their worn texture is part of their sustainable appeal.

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Cover photo: freepik

Fast fashion consumption thrives largely as a function of our purchasing behavior, driven by the desire to own more and more clothes and supported by the continuous decrease in prices.

Through what we buy, we express ourselves and strengthen our identity towards ourselves and towards others. In cultures where our purchases convey self-realization and identity expression, clothes represent a visual language that communicates our belonging to certain social groups, cultures or communities. We are driven to change our identity through new clothes and we are fascinated by being fashionable, leaving in the shadows concerns for the environment, working conditions, ethical supply chains.

With this premise, a research conducted in Spain used agent-based modeling (ABM* ) to analyze consumer decisions regarding fast fashion. Because social and environmental progress requires that the public has the will to take part and support initiatives that address fast fashion and other issues.

How much do environmental concerns and awareness of the (un)sustainability of fast fashion affect our purchasing choices?

The study by Soboleva & Sánchez (2024) investigates how individuals choose to purchase fast fashion and how awareness of the effects of fashion, particularly fast fashion, affects this process, examining the influence of factors such as government intervention, social media and peer pressure.

Government intervention:

The analysis finds that government interventions are critical, with state’s campaigns setting the overall tone of progress, but up to a point beyond which they produce diminishing returns. One of the key findings is therefore that the state does not need to be extremely proactive or continue campaigns indefinitely to achieve optimal results. The state’s influence on public opinion reaches a point where further interventions produce insignificant results.

Environmental Concern, Awareness, and Sustainability Education:

Investigating the impact of awareness and sustainability education on individuals’ decision-making processes regarding fast fashion purchases indicates that environmental concerns do not significantly influence purchasing habits, nor do normative expectations (beliefs about what others think we should or should not do).

Social pressure:

Positive social pressure can stimulate collective change. If knowledge is not enough, feeling that one’s sustainable behavior is shared and appreciated by others can influence choices.

The study highlights that there are no explicit or implicit social expectations that push people to choose sustainably. In other words, in the society analyzed, there is no cultural climate or relational context in which sustainable choices are encouraged, rewarded or considered the norm.

The absence of social pressure is worrying, because without it it is not possible to address issues such as fast fashion and shape collective behavior: even those who are educated on the topic may choose to remain silent. Those who know the negative impact of fast fashion may not act, nor speak out, if they feel alone or lack social support.

Bandwagon effect or bandwagon effect: When there is no social pressure to make sustainable choices, the bandwagon effect is activated in the opposite direction: people unconsciously follow the crowd that continues to buy fast fashion. The bandwagon effect is part of a larger group of cognitive distortions that influence people’s judgments and decisions. Cognitive distortions can help people think and reason faster, but they often introduce errors of calculation and evaluation. Among these, the bandwagon effect is a psychological phenomenon in which people adopt behaviors or attitudes simply because others do so. It describes the tendency of people to follow the crowd, to desire what others have, to act as others act, deciding based on what the larger group is doing.

The term bandwagon originates from the traveling circuses of the nineteenth century, whose musical bands paraded on wagons to attract the public. Clown and entertainer Dan Rice used this float to support Zachary Taylor’s 1848 presidential campaign, inviting people to “jump on the bandwagon” to support him. After Taylor’s success, other politicians imitated the strategy, giving rise to the phrase “bandwagon effect”, which refers to the tendency for people to join a cause simply because it is popular, and some began to use the idea of ​​”jumping on the bandwagon” as a negative action.

Food trends and the popularity of certain foods can be influenced by the bandwagon effect. Even the acquisition of generational slang terms can be an example of “getting on the bandwagon.” On social media, trends can involve the recreation of specific types of posts or the sharing of certain types of content. A recent example? The AI-generated Barbie dolls kit that have filled our Instagram feeds. The very use of specific social media platforms and the popularity of certain TV shows and movies can also be attributed to the bandwagon effect. Additionally, research has shown that the effect can also influence decisions made by doctors, therapists, and other healthcare professionals.

In fashion, trends appear to be particularly vulnerable to the bandwagon effect and also tend to be fleeting, making certain items quickly obsolete and forgotten in our closets. We buy clothes, shoes, and accessories because so many do, following the popularity of brands, stores, and products.

Why exactly does the bandwagon effect occur? Individuals are strongly influenced by peer pressure and norms. When it seems like most of the group is doing something, it becomes increasingly difficult not to do it. If our peer group, the people in our social circle, buy fast fashion, it is difficult to do otherwise.

Why is it so difficult?

It’s a natural tendency for people to follow the rest of the group. because we feel pressured. In other cases, we compare ourselves to others and then try to change to be more like the group. Following trends can even help build bonds with others.

When it seems like everyone is doing something, there’s a huge pressure to conform, which is perhaps why “bandwagon” behaviors tend to form so easily. People want to be right. They want to be on the winning side. One reason people conform is because they seek information from other members of their social group about what is right or acceptable. If it seems like everyone else is doing something, people feel like it’s the right thing to do.

Fear of exclusion also plays a role in the bandwagon effect. People generally don’t want to be on the excluded side, so conforming to what the rest of the group is doing is a way of ensuring social inclusion and acceptance. The need to belong drives people to adopt the norms and attitudes of the majority in order to gain acceptance and approval from the group.

Although the bandwagon effect can have potentially dangerous consequences in some cases, it can also lead to the adoption of healthy behaviors. If it appears that most people reject unhealthy behaviors (such as smoking) and adopt healthy choices (such as physical activity and exercise), people may then be more likely to avoid risky choices and adopt healthy behaviors.

Bandwagon effect, peer pressure and sustainable fashion:

• Popular pressure creates the context.
• The bandwagon effect spreads behavior that appears successful or approved in that context.

If peer pressure is absent, the bandwagon reinforces the unsustainable status quo. If it is present and positive, it can accelerate collective change. If a cultural inversion is triggered – for example, by showing that more and more people are choosing sustainable fashion – the bandwagon effect can become a powerful ally: sustainability can be perceived not only as right, but also as popular.

In this way, positive peer pressure can exploit the bandwagon effect to make more ethical behavior desirable and “fashionable”. The bandwagon effect can lead consumers to follow sustainable trends if they are perceived as popular.

Social media:

According to the Spanish study, social media profoundly influences concerns and opinions, playing an important role in shaping our behavior. They can both promote progress and hinder the adaptation of new purchasing habits. Furthermore, the general bias of social media has a significant impact on efforts to change current purchasing habits in the fashion industry.

A study published in Frontiers in Communication analyzed how key opinion leaders (KOLs), including influencers and celebrities, influence consumers’ purchase intentions regarding sustainable fashion products. The findings highlight that:

• KOLs can significantly influence purchasing decisions, brand perception, and marketing strategies.
• Their presence on social media and their credibility can motivate consumers to adopt more sustainable purchasing behaviors.

Generational influences:

A master’s thesis from the Portuguese Catholic University examined how peer pressure influences sustainable fashion purchasing decisions among Generations Y and Z. The results indicate that:

• Generation Y is more susceptible to peer pressure in purchasing eco-fashion products
• Generation Z is more influenced when eco-fashion is promoted on social media platforms such as Instagram.
• The study suggests that peer pressure acts as a mediator between generation and purchase intention, with social media amplifying this effect.

Social norms are not enough to influence the choice of what we buy:

A study published byMDPI investigated the role of social norms in sustainable clothing purchasing behavior. The results indicate that:

• Social norms influence the perception of the social acceptability of sustainable clothing.
• However, no significant moderating effect of social norms was found between purchase intention and actual purchasing behavior.

This suggests that, although social norms may influence intentions, other factors such as personal values ​​and financial availability may play a more determining role in actual purchasing behavior.

Conclusions:

Education on sustainability and government interventions are not enough to slow down the purchase of fast fashion. Social media and social pressure are crucial to guide more responsible and ethical purchasing behaviors. Added to this are other elements such as personal values ​​and financial availability.

Defined personal values ​​and identities can overcome the bandwagon effect. Evaluating yourself based on what is considered popular at a given moment can also damage self-esteem and prevent you from reaching your full potential. Just because you like something that is not popular or has an interest that many others do not seem to share, does not mean that those activities, that style, those ideas are not worth pursuing.

To avoid the bandwagon effect, do not listen to just one source when evaluating information. Look for a variety of data and opinions, including alternative or contrary points of view, legitimate and evidence-based information that can support or refute those claims.

The point remains of the financial availability and accessibility of alternatives to fast fashion. But that’s another story, which you’ll hear about soon.

*An agent-based model can simulate how consumers decide whether to buy fast fashion or ethical fashion. Each consumer is represented by a virtual actor with their own behaviors, to observe how sustainable choices spread.

Study mentioned in this article: Soboleva & Sánchez, 2024, Agent-Based Insight into Eco-Choices: Simulating the Fast Fashion Shift, https://doi.org/10.48550/arXiv.2407.18814

Other sources: Ebsco; Frontiers; MDPI; UCB Repository; Very Well Mind.com

Photos: Julia Андрэй (cover),Markus Spiske, Kate Trysh, Toa Heftiba on Unsplash

According to the Kunming-Montreal Global Biodiversity Framework, the main cause of loss of biological diversity can be found in the use of the planet’s resources. For this reason, the framework sets the goal of equitably reducing the global consumption footprint, including halving food waste and significantly decreasing overconsumption and waste generation by 2030. Europe, bound by regulatory framework, is committed to a path of collective self-limitation. This implies the need to contain production to avoid exceeding planetary limits, ensuring that efficiency gains do not lead to an unsustainable increase in resource consumption.

“The environmental impact of the consumption of an average EU citizen is outside the safe operating space for humanity for several impacts, namely climate change, particulate matter, freshwater ecotoxicity, and resource use (fossils fuels, minerals and metals).”

Sanyé Mengual e Sala, Joint Research Centre (JRC) of European Commission, 2023

The EU’s Material Footprint per capita is now higher than much of the rest of the world, and between 40 and 70% higher than available estimates of a sustainable level, which is broadly consistent with limitation of environmental pressure within planetary boundaries (Meysner and Gore, Ieep, 2022).

Overproduction and inappropriate disposal of clothing contribute to the planetary crisis. Furthermore, excessive consumption, fueled by the fashion industry’s dominant business model, is at the heart of the climate, environmental and pollution crises. For this reason it is necessary to act on both production and consumption levels. In practice, we must choose the essential in both production and consumption.

“If increased material efficiency through longevity, reuse or recycling does not result in a reduction in the overall consumption of materials, the circular economy has lost its “raison d’être”.” (Zero Waste Europe 2023). A circular economy isn’t enough – we need to consume less (Wijkman e Potochnik, The New Statesman, 2023).

It is the same message launched by the British Fashion Council (BFC) which, based on a report by the Institute of Positive Fashion (IPF), asked the government, the British fashion industry and consumers to all work together to “reduce massively” the number of new clothes people buy each year. The goal is to reduce the demand for new clothing by 50% (Moore, Circular Online, 2021).

The consumption problem

In the European Union, the environmental impact of excessive consumption is evident in the unsustainable amount of natural resources used to meet demands. Overproduction and Europe’s growing footprint of materials have contributed to planetary crises, including climate change and pollution.

According to Zero Waste Europe (2023), the scale of fashion overproduction and consumption is staggering. With the purchase of 26 kg of textile products, every year the average European generates around 11 kg of textile waste, which mainly ends up in landfill or incinerated: only 1% of used garments is recycled into new clothing (European Parliament 2020).

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Our obsession with consumption contributes to the problem. “Every minute of every day advertising tells us that our health, happiness and wellbeing are dependent on owning a dizzying array of products. We apparently need to update our wardrobe, home furnishings or car with frightening regularity. Advertising increasingly assures us we can make these changes without causing damage to the climate or nature by choosing “environmentally friendly” options – an electric vehicle instead of a petrol or diesel car, for instance.” (Wijkman and Potochnik, The New Statesman, 2023).

Fashion, driven by constant persuasion to consume through digital advertising and social media, is a significant component of the excessive consumption that fuels the climate, environmental and pollution crises.

Buying the “right quantity”

To address this problem, the first step is to generate a culture of sufficiency, trying to limit the continuous purchase of new fashionable items and discouraging excessive consumption (Zero Waste Europe 2023).

Collective self-limitation, by containing primary production, is seen as a solution to avoid exceeding planetary limits: we must buy less and make it last longer.

The dominant business model of the fashion industry is based on persuasion to continually purchase new trendy items. In our purchases it is necessary to limit the superfluous and focus on what is truly necessary. However, quantifying the sufficiency of clothing and determining how many items are “enough” is an ongoing challenge.

According to recent research on consumption “corridors” for sustainability in fashion, a level of sustainable consumption is represented by approximately five new items of clothing per person per year (Zero Waste Europe 2023).

How much is enough? Two Swedish researchers, Göran Bäckstrand and Lars Ingelstam, tried to answer this question in 1975 in an article entitled “Hur mycket är lagom?” (Wijkman and Potochnik, The New Statesman, 2023). “Lagom” is a Swedish term that roughly translates to “just the right amount” or “enough”. It embodies the idea of balance, moderation and contentment. It is a concept deeply rooted in Swedish culture and reflects a lifestyle that avoids extremes. It can be declined into:

• Moderation; Lagom encourages a balanced and moderate approach to various aspects of life, including work, socializing and consumption. It’s about finding a middle ground without excesses or deficiencies.
• Community and equality; Lagom extends to social interactions and promotes a sense of community and equality.
• Sustainability; the concept aligns with sustainable living, highlighting the importance of using resources responsibly and not indulging in excess. It resonates with environmental consciousness and the idea of leaving a smaller ecological footprint.
• Work-life balance; Lagom is reflected in the Swedish approach to work-life balance.
• Contentment; Lagom is associated with contentment and satisfaction with what one has. It encourages people to appreciate and make the most of the present moment without constantly striving for more.
• Decision process; in various aspects of life, Lagom is reflected in decision making. It is about considering what is appropriate or sufficient in a given situation rather than opting for extremes.

Although Lagom is deeply rooted in Swedish culture, its principles have gained international attention as a guiding philosophy for a more balanced and conscious lifestyle. Even today we ask ourselves the “right amount” of resources, minerals and materials that we extract from the Earth to transform them into products that we may or may not need (Wijkman and Potochnik, The New Statesman, 2023).

A change of mentality

The transition towards sustainable fashion requires deep reflection on the concept of essentiality. Limiting yourself to the essentials is not just about reducing consumption, but also about a radical change in consumer mentality and in the industry itself.

It is necessary to promote new values that challenge the traditional concept of success and encourage consumption models based on care and well-being. Here are some key concepts on this topic:

1. Mindfulness-based lifestyle: Consumers need to be aware of their impact and consumption choices. Information on the need to limit ourselves to the essentials can change our perspective, pushing us towards more prudent and sustainable choices in dressing, as in other areas of life.
2. Minimalism in Fashion: Embracing the minimalist style in fashion means focusing on essential, long-lasting and versatile pieces. This philosophy contrasts with the current approach based on ephemeral trends and unbridled consumerism, promoting a more sustainable and long-lasting wardrobe.
3. Enhancement of Authenticity: Limiting yourself to the essential means appreciating the authenticity of each item of clothing. Instead of giving in to fast fads, individuals are encouraged to choose pieces that reflect their personality and resist passing trends.
4. Eliminate harmful choices and create a wellness-oriented economy.
5. Repair and reuse: Can significantly reduce the need for new clothing (Zero Waste Europe 2023).

The transition to an essential lifestyle requires changes in public policies, the promotion of repair and reuse, as well as the adoption of zero waste business models.

The culture of sufficiency and conscious living

In addition to “Lagom”, there are several interesting concepts related to the culture of sufficiency and conscious living from different cultures around the world.

Here are some:

• Wabi-Sabi (Japan): It’s a Japanese aesthetic philosophy that embraces imperfection, impermanence and simplicity. Appreciate the beauty and serenity in the natural cycle of growth and advancement of age, evidenced in objects and its impermanence by patina and wear or any visible repairs, emphasizing the acceptance of transience and the modesty of a simple, uncluttered life.
• Hygge (Denmark): It’s a Danish concept that encompasses a feeling of coziness, contentment and general well-being. It often involves creating a warm and inviting atmosphere, enjoying simple pleasures, and promoting a sense of togetherness.
  

  

• Ubuntu (Southern Africa): It’s an African philosophy that emphasizes the interconnectedness of humanity. It promotes a sense of community, loyalty, compassion and mutual support. The concept is often expressed through the phrase “I am because we are”. One of the most basic principles of Ubuntu is a moral obligation to others, including past, present, and future generations. In this way it supports sustainable living that does not impact the ability of others, including future generations, to live (Department of Geography, University of Sheffield, 2021).
• Friluftsliv (Norway/Sweden): It means “outdoor living” and is a Nordic concept that celebrates the connection with nature. It involves spending time outdoors, appreciating the natural world, and finding joy in outdoor activities regardless of the weather. Research suggests that experiences with nature that involve emotions and compassion are more likely to induce environmentally responsible behavior (Lumber et al., 2017, Chawla 2006, in Lund, JASEd, 2022).
• Voluntary Simplicity (global): It’s a global movement that supports the deliberate choice to live with less. It involves prioritizing meaningful experiences over material goods, reducing consumption and embracing a more sustainable and fulfilling lifestyle.
• Aloha Spirit (Hawaii): It’s a Hawaiian concept that goes beyond a simple greeting. It includes love, peace, compassion and mutual respect. Living with the Aloha Spirit involves a deep respect for others and the environment.

These concepts share common themes of awareness, balance, and attention to meaningful experiences over material accumulation.

The responsibility of the fashion industry

In addition to engaging consumers, addressing the planetary crisis requires a significant shift in the fashion industry’s approach. The culture of sufficiency is an important lever to also apply to business models to address urgent sustainability issues.

Limiting to the essentials means making sustainability an absolute priority. Companies must integrate eco-sustainable practices in all phases of production, from the procurement of materials to packaging, promoting an environmentally friendly production chain.

The fashion industry must abandon the overproduction model and adopt a need-based approach. Production goes beyond demand: 30% of clothes produced are not sold (Zero Waste Europe 2023). This requires a shift to business models oriented towards “zero waste”, where quality trumps quantity.

Will reducing consumer demand lead to job losses? Job positions in traditional manufacturing will decrease, but hundreds of thousands of new jobs could be created by adopting new circular business models including second-hand, rental, subscription and repair of old clothes that today end up in landfill (Moore, Circular Online, 2021).

All we need is to choose the essentials.

Cover photo: designed by Freepik

What are microfibres? What size are they?

“Microfibre” is a consolidated term in the textile industry to indicate fibers between 10 and 30 μm. The term “microfibers” is also used to indicate the fibrous material released during washing. It has been proposed to differentiate the term by calling these materials ‘fragments of fibres’, i.e. the fragments of fibers between 1 μm and 5 mm in size released from clothing and home textiles during washing, drying and use.

Therefore, “microfibres” in the textile industry actually indicates fibers between 10 and 30 micrometres, while what is released by clothing and home textiles is more correctly defined as a fragment of fibers and has dimensions between 1 μm and 5 millimetres.

What are microplastics?

Microplastics are fragments of synthetic fibers. Primary microplastic is released directly into the environment in the form of small plastic particles (less than 5mm in size) which include fiber fragments released during the domestic washing process. Other sources for primary microplastics include road markings, tire wear, marine coating and cosmetics. Secondary microplastics are the by-products of the natural erosion of larger plastic objects released into the environment.

Multiple steps in wastewater treatment plants can filter out up to 95% of fiber fragments. However, the remaining 5% of fiber fragments can end up in rivers and oceans and enter the food chain through:

• table salt;
• contaminated water;
• ingestion of marine creatures

causing adverse health effects.

They are not only a risk to our health, but also to that of marine creatures, threatening the functioning of their metabolic activities.

Additionally, fiber fragments can also impact health through inhalation (outdoor and indoor) and direct skin contact through personal care products, textiles, or indoor dust.

Where do fiber fragments mainly come from?

• From domestic washing of clothes
• From waste generated during textile production
• From discarded textiles
• From landfills near rivers and
• From domestic drainage

Considering domestic washing, how many microfibers are released?

The release of fiber fragments during washing varies from 100 to 300 mg per kg of washed fabric. So for a 7 kg washing machine load, it will range between 700 and 2100 mg in total. Making some estimates on a typical washing scheme (times, frequency, quantity) in developed countries, assuming that it is adopted in these countries by 1 billion people to wash their clothes, 14,400,000 kg of fragments of fibers is released to the environment every year. Any process that reduces fiber strength, including sanding, brushing, bleaching, has the potential to increase the release of fiber fragments in consecutive wet processes.

Various important parameters affect the release of fragments from textile fibers including type of fabric, weave/knit structure,  type and concentration of the detergent, temperature, pH, spin-speed of the spin cycle, duration of washing and processes drying.

Let’s consider for example he type of fiber.

The fiber fragments in the marine environment are classified as natural, cellulosic man-made and synthetic. The concentration of natural and cellulosic fiber fragments in the ocean is much higher than synthetic fiber fragments. Fabrics made from cotton and other cellulosic materials release more fiber fragments during the washing process than polyester fabrics. However, cotton, wool, silk and man-made cellulosic fibers such as bamboo, modal, tencel/lyocell are biodegradable compared to thermoplastic fibers in the marine environment. Polyester fibers are considered a greater threat to the environment than cotton because they have an extremely low biodegradation rate.

In general, natural and man-made cellulosic fibers degrade easily, however, the presence of dyes and chemicals for finishing the fabrics can reduce the biodegradation rate.

Most textile products are treated with various synthetic dyes. The presence of these chemicals can complicate the biodegradation of even natural fibers such as cotton.

In general, various functional additives have been applied to fibers of cellulose origin such as crease recovery, water/soil repellent, flame retardant, antimicrobial, and softeners. When fiber fragments are released into the marine environment, these chemicals and dyes integrate with the fiber fragment to create additional health hazards for aquatic creatures.

Let’s consider another variable, the detergent. How do they affect the release of microfibers?

There are conflicting studies. Some show that the use of detergent promotes the emission of fiber fragments compared to washing with water only. Others that the use of the cleaner has no significant impact on the release of microfiber. The apparent contradiction in the results is likely driven by differences in testing methodology (some studies use clean, often new or artificially aged, and homogenous wash loads of garments including one or a few garment types; others measure the release from solid consumer laundry).

Powder or liquid? Powder detergent generates a higher emission than liquid detergent. Powder detergents contain an inorganic component called zeolite, which is insoluble in water and causes more friction between the clothes and the washing machine with a higher chance of producing fiber fragments.

However, the chemical formulation of the detergent matters, whether it’s liquid or powder.

Generally, nonionic surfactant-containing detergent is easily soluble in water and works very well in hard water, but is more expensive than anionic surfactant.

The detergent industry uses various enzymes to speed up the washing process. These products are more expensive, good for washing and stain removal; according to some studies they attenuate the fiber fragments more during washing, according to others they increase the release.

Furthermore, the research results also show a significant reduction in the release of microfibre after the first cycles.

If what emerges from the various studies on the impact of detergent does not seem to give certainties, it is instead evident how much the temperature and quantity of water affect it.

How does the water temperature affect the microfibre release?

The release of fiber fragments increases with increasing washing temperature.

In some cases, a higher level of fiber fragments is released during the washing process at higher temperatures even without the addition of detergent or fabric softener.

To reduce the release of fiber fragments during washing, we can keep the washing temperature as low as possible (30°C).

Powder/liquid detergents based on non-ionic detergents seem preferable for washing clothes at lower temperatures with two advantages: (i) lower energy consumption during the washing process and (ii) lower release of fiber fragments.

What is the impact of the washing machine load and the amount of water on the release of microfibres?

In the washing machine, the garment-to-washing liquid ratio plays a critical role in the emission of fiber fragments. One study found the release of 65 mg of fiber fragments per kg of garment and increases to 125 mg of fiber fragments when the wash water is doubled. The higher volume of water increases the mechanical stress of the garments during the washing process.

We should try to wash with full loads but use an adequate amount of detergent and avoid overfilling the washing machine, because it could negatively impact the cleaning performance and lead to mechanical failure of the appliance.

Does the type of washing machine have an impact on microfibres?

A study on top-loading washing machines that work on the agitator principle (a central pivot that twists the clothes back and forth with the movement and rubs them against itself) release about 9 times more fiber fragments than to front-loading washing machines.

High-efficiency (top-load) washers generate significantly less microfiber shedding than traditional (top-load) washers, likely due to lower water fill volumes and therefore lower water/fabric ratio .

And does drying produce the release of microfibers?

I frammenti di fibra rilasciati durante il processo di lavaggio finiscono nelle acque reflue, mentre i frammenti di fibra rilasciati durante l’utilizzo dell’asciugatrice vengono raccolti sui filtri dell’aria e finiscono nei rifiuti solidi. Alcune delle fibre spezzate durante l’asciugatura sono attaccate in modo lasco alla superficie del tessuto e vengono rilasciate nell’aria quando sono indossate o rilasciate nell’acqua nel successivo processo di lavaggio. Al contrario, l’asciugatura all’aria non influenza significativamente il rilascio di frammenti di fibre.

Normalmente, la temperatura di asciugatura, la velocità di agitazione, il tempo di asciugatura sono i criteri principali che influenzano fortemente il rilascio di frammenti di fibre in un’asciugatrice.

The fiber fragments released during the washing process end up in the wastewater, while the fiber fragments released during the use of the dryer are collected on the air filters and end up in the solid waste. Some of the fibers broken down during drying are loosely attached to the surface of the fabric and are released into the air when worn or released into the water in the subsequent washing process. Conversely, atmospheric or air drying did not significantly affect the release of fiber fragments.

Normally, drying temperature, agitation speed, drying time are the main criteria which strongly influence the release of fiber fragments in a tumble dryer.

The characteristics of the fabric also have an impact.

The generation and release of fiber fragments are influenced by many aspects such as the type of fabric, geometry, yarn, and the entire manufacturing history (spinning, knitting or weaving processes, scouring, bleaching, dyeing , finishing and drying), in addiction to the physico-chemical properties of the fibres. Any factor that improves the physical interactions between fibers in the fabric structure reduces the release of fiber fragments during repeated washing and drying processes.

For example, woven polyester fabric emits higher fiber fragments than knitted polyester fabric.

The mechanical structure of the fibers deteriorates over time due to various parameters including exposure to sunlight, wear and washing. Exposure of fabrics to sunlight can increase the heat and accelerate the oxidation of the fibers and their gradual degradation. In addition to this, the fibers deteriorate due to mechanical stress, repeated washing cycles, abrasion and rubbing during wear, perspiration.

How can we limit the release of microfibers?

L’installazione di filtri per lavatrice per mitigare il problema è una possibile soluzione ma non si ha certezza che la filtrazione sia efficiente al 100%. Così il sacchetto che trattiene le microfibre (Guppy Friend). Si sta considerando la rimozione delle microfibre negli impianti di trattamento delle acque reflue, anche se è impegnativo.

I prodotti tessili dovrebbero essere utilizzati il più a lungo possibile prima che finiscano nelle discariche. La minimizzazione dei rifiuti tessili riduce anche il rilascio di frammenti di fibre dalle discariche. Dovremmo riciclare i tessuti il più possibile e creare dagli scarti tessili nuove fibre con tecniche adeguate.

Relativamente al rilascio di microfibre, i tessuti biologici provenienti da risorse rinnovabili dovrebbero essere preferiti a quelli sintetici a base di petrolio.

Il nostro comportamento di acquisto influenza fortemente la mitigazione dei frammenti di fibra. Gli attuali modelli di consumo portano a danni ambientali ed è necessaria maggiore consapevolezza della possibilità di ridurre dei frammenti di fibra dovuti ai processi di lavaggio domestici. I tessuti devono essere lavati in condizioni più miti con meno agitazione meccanica. Il rilascio di microfibra può essere notevolmente ridotto utilizzando cicli di lavaggio più freddi e più brevi, lavando carichi completi ma non eccessivamente colmi e preferendo lavatrici ad alta efficienza. Tali interventi hanno vantaggi anche sulla cura degli indumenti aumentandone la vita utile con benefici di impatto ambientale più ampi.

Contemporaneamente i brand dovrebbero avere più consapevolezza della mitigazione dei frammenti di fibre rispetto ai tipi di tessuto, fornendo i messaggi di avviso su ogni capo realizzato, scegliendo più consapevolmente i materiali e preferendo metodi di finissaggio e tintura più rispettosi dell’ambiente.

Installing filers  for washing machines is a possible solution to mitigate the problem, but there is no certainty that the filtration is 100% efficient. Thus the bag that holds the microfibers (Guppy Friend)). The removal of microfibers in wastewater treatment plants is being considered, although it is challenging.

Textile products should be used for as long as possible before they end up in landfills. Textile waste minimization also reduces the release of fiber fragments from landfills. We should recycle fabrics as much as possible and create new fibers from textile waste with suitable techniques.

Concerning the release of microfibres, bio-based fabrics from renewable resources should be preferred to oil-based synthetic ones.

Our purchasing behavior strongly influences the mitigation of fiber fragments. Current consumption patterns lead to environmental damage. Greater awareness of the possibility of reducing fiber fragments due to domestic washing processes is then needed. Fabrics should be washed under milder conditions with less mechanical agitation. Microfiber shedding can be significantly reduced by using cooler and shorter wash cycles, washing full but not overly full loads, and preferring high-efficiency washers. These interventions also have advantages on the care of garments, increasing their useful life with wider environmental impact benefits.

At the same time, brands should have more awareness of the mitigation of fiber fragments with respect of the types of fabric, providing warning messages on each garment, choosing materials more consciously and preferring more environmentally friendly finishing and dyeing methods.

*Sources:

Aravin Prince Periyasamy, Ali Tehrani-Bagha, A review on microplastic emission from textile materials and its reduction techniques, March 2022, Department of Bioproducts and Biosystems, School of Chemical Engineering, Aalto University, Finland, Science Direct

Lant et al., Microfiber release from real soiled consumer laundry and the impact of fabric care products and washing conditions, June 2020, Plos One

Photo: Mel Poole; Chris Curry; Moonstarious Project; Engin Akyurt; Chloe Skinner.

Yes, that’s fine, but where do I find an elegant (sustainable) red dress now?

I have two or three of them in my wardrobe, not for evening wear. In the group of friends, some are already looking in the windows of the city, others have flocked to Amazon… I obviously decide to proceed in a different way. Not only. I said to myself: “What if I tried to arrive with a ‘Wow’ effect dress by telling that I have chosen the path of sustainable fashion? It could entice other people by showing how not so difficult it is to dress green and ethically (which is the slogan of Dress ECOde)”.

Taking advantage of the passion for research on the net, I put myself into action by browsing the second-hand shops.

If one day I get bored or find myself leaving it parked in the closet, I can always sell the dress by putting it back into circulation. Vinted seems to me to offer ample choice for a limited budget. After having scanned dozens and dozens of ads, I realized I have a list of about fifteen options between 7 and 40 euros. In the end I chose a dress with an Italian brand label, Elisa Landri. I looked and looked at the photo: it seems to me that it can fit more body shapes, in order to go more or less without fail. The transaction is fast, the seller is precise and the dress arrives as it is in the photo, practically new.

A vintage clutch bag by Furla, inherited from my grandmother. A pair of shoes that I have carefully kept for about ten years. A second-hand shrug. Here we are! I show you the result in the photos.

On the evening of the dinner I repeated to each “What a beautiful dress!” the choice of second-hand (“It’s used, would you ever say that?”) and vintage. I had already told of this way to solve the need for the dress code in the chat of the group of friends. And right in the chat my decision is intertwined with that of Antonella. A different path, always with a view to sustainability, which she tells us about here.

(You can listen to Antonella’s interview also on Spreaker)

Hi Antonella, thank you for agreeing to share your experience with regards to this occasion in which we participated together. The first question I want to ask you is: what did you think when you read about the dress code?

“When I received the email with the directions for the evening and I discovered that the dress code required red, specifically Christmas red, I was anxious for a moment as I knew for sure that there weren’t totally red clothes in my wardrobe”.

So you didn’t have a ready-made red dress in your closet? Why did you never have them or did you have them and got tired of them? Is it a color you don’t wear?

“Actually in the past I had made the mistake of buying a totally red dress that I fell in love with when I saw it in the shop window. It also valued me as a dress model. I tried it, I fell in love with it, I bought it (among other things, it also cost a lot of money). I wore it for that night, it was a New Year’s Eve, and I haven’t worn it since. For a long time I wondered why I didn’t wear it, being a model that enhanced my shapes. But I didn’t understand why in the end the choice always fell on something else. I had paid a lot for it and therefore I couldn’t throw it away or at least take it out of my closet. Then when I discovered the color analysis I realized that in my color palette, the ones that highlight my complexion colors, the undertones of my eyes and hair, there was no red, specifically Christmas red. At that moment, therefore, I became aware of this thing. I knew I would never wear it again or anything except modifying it, taking it to a seamstress, trying to make some appliques or whatever. But this would have required an expenditure of energy, time, the purchase of other fabrics, applications, etc. So I chose to donate it, eliminating it from my closet”.

Antonella, did it only happen with the red dress or are you reviewing your way of managing your wardrobe and the clothes that are inside, so are you really changing your approach to clothing as well?

“Let’s say I’ve been doing this over the last year, the last couple of years. Because I understood how much marketing and advertising focus on our emotional factor and lead us to buy things that seem fundamental, essential to us. It seems that we can’t do without them, but then once they are placed in our homes they become a burden. So I really started doing some very thoughtful and thorough decluttering, trying to figure out what specifically in the closet, actually throughout the house, was stuck there. Only because there was an emotional hook and not because it was functional to make me feel good, make me feel at ease. So I’ve been making decluttering choices for some time, donating these clothes to people I know can give new life, because they value them more, or just to Caritas, to people who need it. Furthermore, being very sensitive to eco-friendly issues, to nature, to animals, I am really reflecting a lot on every purchase, that is, when I do it I reflect on whether I really need it”.

When you read about the dress code what did you decide to do? Because we saw I decided to go on one way, what did you think instead? And in the end what was your choice?

“I chose not to buy a new dress because I knew it would go the way of that gorgeous red New Year’s dress, it would hang there in the closet. So I had to find a solution using what was there. I opened my closet and looking through my party dresses, let’s say a little longer, a little more formal, I found this dress, well hidden in cellophane. In the top it is black with transparent veil. In the part of the top, from the bust to the waist, it is shiny with sequins. In the lower part, however, it has a long skirt, very wide in tulle, a little transparent, with very large red flower applications and with a red and black belt at the waist. So this could have been the solution, even if looking at it I had the feeling that there was little red. Nevertheless it hadn’t been specified that the evening should be total red, in any case the visual impact would have been on the black of the bodice and then later on the part red. I thought I’d find a solution to increase the red of my dress. At that point I wrote a message on the Whatsapp group of a personal growth course I’m doing to look for a brainstorming asking my friends for help. Arianna promptly intervened giving me advice on how to enhance and how to increase the red in the upper part of the dress. She kindly lent me her red clutch bag”.

Yes, Antonella, it’s a vintage red bag, with the initial A too, which stands for both Arianna and Antonella.

“It was in the hand, and therefore increased the red on the body, on the upper part. She had also offered me a shawl, not being sure of the point of red I tried it on but in reality it didn’t fit very well. So thinking and looking for images on the internet, I came up with the idea of gloves. Among other things, I had a pair of red gloves because I had used them at a dance I think. However, they were gloves only on hand, so let’s say that they were a little more red anyway, but not enough, being that the arms were still totally uncovered. So the idea fell on red long gloves. Unfortunately we were reduced to the last minute, so it was truly almost magical: that evening Arianna arrived with long red satin gloves!”

Yes, Anto, the chat where we helped each other worked for this, in the sense that we brought some more accessories, something more red and I saw these red gloves emerge from Eleonora. I immediately thought: “These are perfect for Antonella’s dress!”

“Which I wore, totally increasing the red in the upper part. I tied my hair up, so as not to let the dark of the hair prevail together with the bodice which remained black. Overall the dress has increased red over the black. It also had a really beautiful effect, as well as giving an extra note of elegance to the dress which, despite being long, I had tried to make a little more sporty by putting boot underneath”.

How do you think this experience went, Antonella? What was the result in the end?

“The result was absolutely fantastic”.

Would you do it again? So would you recommend it instead of buying a new dress for a special occasion, as in this case?

“Precisely because I realized that this beautiful result came out of an idea launched in a group, after a few days I repeated the experience. When a friend of mine called me in a panic because they had given directions to a wedding she was invited to. Women should have kept to colors that oscillated between wisteria and pink. Having nothing and putting herself at the last minute to look for a dress (even for winter) for the wedding and having found nothing, I advised her to send messages in different kind of Whatsapp groups. Friends, colleagues, middle school classmates, in short, all those groups that swarm on our cell phones, asking for advice and support for this situation that had arisen”.

How did it go?

“She managed to find a pair of gloves too, a clutch bag, a hairstyle, a very light veil scarf and a shrug. All this, which precisely matched the shades that she had requested, added to the very light powder-colored dress that was what she had thought of, in the end the result was fantastic. She was delighted. I too, equally happy to have been able to replicate a fantastic experience that had brought me a beautiful result, and that also had given her this equally beautiful result”.

How nice, Antonella, it makes me really so happy! Because then there are possibilities other than just picking up and going to buy a dress, an accessory, something new just for a specific occasion! So, summing up, what do you feel like saying about this experience?

“I am happy that I was able to find this solution in my difficult situation, let’s call it that. And happy that I have understood that there are many possibilities in addition to the simpler one of buying, going looking for into the new. I’m glad I’ve already replicated. Because precisely for the reason that  it gave a positive emotion, experience, it will in turn be replicated by my friend as well”.

Thanks Antonella for taking the opportunity to try a different way of dressing even when these requests and needs arise. Thank you for repeating the example with your friends as well. It’s very nice to imagine a positive chain of this type, and who knows maybe someone listening to this podcast have the same idea and continue this positive chain, in order to stop sometimes compulsive, sometimes even a little useless purchases. And then, let’s say it, it was also a lot of fun exchanging accessories and exchanging tips! Thanks again Antonella for your experience.

Antonella Minardi, whom I met during a personal growth journey, is a nature lover, likes cats, lives and works in Salerno in Cilento area.

Do you know how many are a lifetime of clothing? Since we usually throw away the clothes we no longer use over time, do we get an idea of how many there are in total?

To answer this question, in 2018 Benjamin Von Wong and Laura François came up with the idea of gathering them all in a single wardrobe, creating the tallest wardrobe in the world: in a single instant, those who look up can see a life of clothes with their own eyes.

The wardrobe is different for each of us, according to the economic availability, the era, the culture. Benjamin and Laura have estimated the number of garments that an average person in an economically developed country wears during their life: 3,000.

In the steel structure, assembled over five long days, 3,000 items donated by volunteer students from Fayoum University were hung on 180 meters of wire inside the Mall of Arabia in Cairo.

As we placed each one we were reminded of the different phases in our lives and just how many clothes we use aloing the way.

Can we imagine the environmental and social impact of our lifelong wardrobe?

The tallest wardrobe in the world wants to remind us to:

Love the clothes we have

Buy only what we need

Sharing what we don’t

We wanted the installation to be more than just a pretty piece of art. We wanted it to become a space which could also be used to generate tangible action and to encourage individuals to think locally.

For this reason, all the used clothes were destined to support Refuge Egypt. “Clothing donations are not always the best approach when wanting to purge your closet,” Laura explains. “Clothing bundles coming from the West and being sold to developing regions for higher prices can ultimately cause a rift in the local economy. Fortunately, this isn’t the case in Egypt. The World’s Tallest Closet was a great opportunity to call the public to action in rethinking their consumption – and also to donate directly to local communities that need it”.

Photos from: Von Wong blog

Especially following the publication of the latest IPCC report this summer, posts, comments and requests for advice more and more frequently have expressed the concern for the future scenario that lies ahead in terms of the survival of mankind.

The IPCC

Costituito nel 1988, è il corpo delle Nazioni Unite composto da esperti climatici. Nell’ultimo report pubblicato, 234 scienziati hanno sintetizzato 14,000 documenti di ricerca. Non ci sono più dubbi sulla crisi climatica. È inequivocabile che l’influenza umana abbia riscaldato l’atmosfera, l’oceano e le terre emerse. Le evidenze lo confermano (fonte IPCC 2021):

Formed in 1988, it is the United Nations body made up of climate experts. In the latest published report, 234 scientists synthesized 14,000 research papers. There are no more doubts about the climate crisis. It is unequivocal that human influence has warmed the atmosphere, the ocean and the emerged lands. Evidence confirms it, in fact (source IPCC 2021):

• Human influence has been the leading cause of global glacier retreat since the 1990s and has contributed to the observed surface melting of the Greenland ice sheet over the past two decades.
• Human influence has warmed the climate at an unprecedented rate (speed) in the past 2000 years.
• Extremes of heat (including heat waves) have become more frequent and more intense in most of the lands that have emerged since the 1950s.
• Global surface temperature has risen faster since 1970 than at any other 50-year period in the past 2,000 years.
• The global mean sea level will continue to increase over the course of the 21st century (the expectations are between +0.28 and +1.01 meters).
• The ocean has warmed faster in the last century than since the end of the last deglaciation (about 11,000 years ago).
• In 2019, atmospheric CO2 concentrations were the highest in the last 2 million years.
• Global warming of 1.5° C and 2  C will be overcome during the course of the 21st century unless there are major reductions in CO2 and other greenhouse gas emissions in the coming decades.

These are just some of the points that emerged from the report: did you feel eco-anxiety?

What is it?

Si tratta di un impatto psicologico indiretto del cambiamento climatico. È “una reazione su larga scala allo stato degli ecosistemi planetari” (Pihkala, 2020). Secondo l’American Pshychological Association (2017) è “una paura cronica dei disastri ambientali. Una fonte di stress causato dal guardare il lento e apparentemente irrevocabile impatto del cambiamento climatico, e preoccuparsi del futuro di se stessi, dei bambini e delle ultime generazioni” (Clayton et. al., 2017).

It is an indirect psychological impact of climate change. It is “a large-scale reaction to the state of planetary ecosystems” (Pihkala, 2020). According to the American Pshychological Association (2017) it is “a chronic fear of environmental doom. A source of stress caused by looking at the slow and seemingly irrevocable impact of climate change, and worrying about the future of oneself, children and the last generations” (Clayton et. Al., 2017).

How does it manifest?

Symptoms reported are existential fear, guilt or shame about one’s environmental footprint, depression, anxiety, panic, nervousness, feeling hopeless, irritability, weakness, mood swings, exhaustion, insomnia, obsessive thoughts.

Who is affected?

It affects everyone, even young people and children. The American Psychological Association (2020) found that for 47% of Americans between the ages of 18 and 34, the stress of climate change had an impact on daily life. Young people through modern technology experience greater exposure to disturbing and anxious climatic realities (Li, 2015).

The charity Place2Be states that it is more pronounced among young people: a study shows that 4 out of 5 children between 10 and 12 years have expressed feelings of fear, sadness, anger for environmental problems.

How we react to the climate anxiety?

Psychological responses can be (Coppola, 2021):

• disadaptive. For many people, the mental cost of thinking and experiencing the reality of a changing climate is almost too much to bear. Consequently, a common response is to reject this reality. A disadaptive response is characterized by shutdown through denial, splitting, and disavowal (Doherty, 2011; Lewis, 2019).
• adaptive. Other people cultivate various self-preservation effects such as resilience, constructive hope, attunement, cognitive resonance, and self-efficacy. Pihkala (2019) states that one needs to be able to adapt in the face of anxiety rather than being crushed.

How can we respond adaptively?

We have collected some tips for reacting to eco-anxiety in a more constructive and resilient way. In cases of high levels or pathological situations, the support of a specialist is obviously necessary, in other cases we can take some actions.

10 solutions

• Improve your mood

1. Connect with nature. Grow plants and trees on the terrace, balcony, garden.
2. Meditate
3. Disconnect from the internet.

Taking care of yourself through healthy habits is recommended by the American Psychological Association.

• Get better informed

1. Choose your sources of information carefully. Avoid those who talk with disastrous tones, without proposing actions that can be put into practice. Always check what you read! The media often chase sensational headlines.
2. Cut down on time in the midst of negative news. It’s important to be up to date, but don’t overdo it. Zero Waste Goods gives us some very valid advice: if you read a negative story, write a message to “take home” and a change that you want to implement as a response to what you read. Look for positive stories to bring into your perspective that there are so many positive things happening in the world.

• Action as antidote (Coppola 2021)

1. Evaluate your environmental impact and observe how you can improve it by changing some habits (decrease plastic, reduce waste, buy locally, adopt a plant-based diet, etc.). You can follow the advice on our site, for example, to limit your impact through the choice of clothes. Or use an app like AWorld.
2. Find your role, think about the best way you can use your skills to contribute positively. We can’t do EVERYTHING, but we can do something. Also through our political and purchasing choices.

• The strenght of the group

1. Join other groups, for example volunteering. Ecoanxiety is often experienced in solitude. A thesis research conducted at the University of Vermont (Coppola, 2021) revealed how action through involvement in environmental organizations serves as an antidote to ecoanxiety among members of the “Climate Generation” (young people between 18 and 21 years old were interviewed, recruited by six UVM environmental organizations). Choose a reality that works near you to contribute positively to the local community.
2. Share your experience with others and build strong social networks (American Psychological Association). On Clubhouse we meet weekly to network, discuss and support each other among people who care about sustainability (Sustainability Club).
3. Try to be an example to others (remembering that you don’t have to be perfect!).

Photos: Omid Armin (cover); Fransiskus Filibert; Dress ECOde.

In particular, the following changes have been made to the legislation:

§ 2 second paragraph:
“The advertiser and the person designing the ad must also ensure that the ad in which the shape, size or skin of a body has been altered by retouching or other manipulation is marked. The Ministry provides additional provisions in the regulations on the methods of marking the announcement and on the exceptions to the obligation of marking”.

§ 21 letter b:
“plays on social insecurity, bad conscience, low self-esteem or contributes to body pressure”.

§ 35, second paragraph:
“The verification referred to in Article 2, second paragraph, first sentence, however, takes place on the basis of considerations of equality between the sexes, with particular regard to the way in which women are represented”.

The legislation will apply to all major social media platforms including Instagram, Snapchat and TikTok and will come into effect as directed by the Norwegian monarch. Violations include escalating fines and, in some extreme cases, imprisonment.

It will be necessary to indicate whether “the shape, size or skin of a body has been changed by retouching or other manipulation”. It is the latest development, after years of advocacy by youth groups and the Norwegian Ministry of Childhood and Family, calling for tougher measures to address growing concerns about body image and mental health. The changes to the legislation stem from concern for a culture that fosters insecurity and low self-esteem: more than half of 10th-grade girls in Oslo struggle with their mental health and anorexia is the third most common cause of death among girls.

“Young people are under a lot of pressure to look good through, among other things, advertising and social media, and the models that are shown are often digitally retouched. This exposes young people to an impossible-to-achieve ideal of beauty”, the department said in its proposal.

Already in 2016 Norway had shown attention to the issue

Trondheim, one of the largest cities in the country, had taken a stand against manipulated body images in advertisements on the city streets. In fact, the city decided to ban all advertisements that could contribute to a negative view of body among residents.

“Since it is a completely unrealistic pressure if [the images] are manipulated… it creates a pressure that no one can handle. If we are able to get rid of it at least in part, we want to do it”.
Trondheim city councilor Ottar Michelsen

The retouching of photographs is not a purely exclusive phenomenon of the network

In glossy magazines it is a practice that each of us have had the opportunity to see over the years. A slimming of the hips, the elimination of stretch marks and cellulite, the stretching of wrinkles, the disappearance of dark circles and many other tricks to show bodies that are always perfect and young. Arousing in the viewer a feeling of inadequacy, a desire to be different from what one is and an endless pursuit of perfection.

Idealized beauty standards are nothing new today, instead representations of the ideal body for public consumption have existed for centuries. But as Michelsen puts it, “the pressure on young people about what body image should be, I think is much stronger now than it was in the past. It affects all of society. When we see that young people, teenagers, are willing to have plastic surgery to look more like these images, I think it’s time to put the brakes on”.

Pinterest, Getty Images, Instagram and Tik Tok

To protect the mental health and well-being of users, some social networks have also intervened in this direction. In early 2021 Pinterest was the first platform to eliminate advertising for weight loss products, appetite suppressing pills and supplements, before and after weight loss images, body shaming, and non-cosmetic result claims. realistic. “Around the world, people of all ages are facing challenges related to body image and mental health, particularly as we emerge from the COVID-19 pandemic and kick off the summer season”, Pinterest said in a post on blog.

In 2017, Getty Images announced that it will no longer accept photoshopped photographs to make models appear thinner or wider. In an email explaining the new policy, Getty announces the change to the creative skills submission requirements guidelines, essentially guidelines for freelance contributors, for all creative content to ban body retouching.

In 2019, Instagram restricted posts promoting weight loss products so that minors couldn’t see them. It also removed content advertising “miracle claims about certain diet or weight loss products”.

Tik Tok has revamped its policies to limit ads that do not align with the “positive, inclusive and safe experience we are committed to on Tik Tok”. The app banned advertising for weight loss supplements and increased restrictions on ads that promote “harmful or negative body image”.

Editing images to achieve aesthetic perfection is now a widespread behavior on the internet

To the point of making people little or completely unrecognizable in case of live meetings. In fact, not only influencers, but also users in personal profiles or in dating apps resort to excessive alterations of their digital image. More and more often we hear stories of those who, passing from a virtual to a real acquaintance, have been disappointed. Sometimes it is just a matter of giving too much importance to aesthetics, but other times the point is the feeling of having been deceived and of lack of sincerity on the part of the other person.

We are not talking about small adjustments to exposure, contrast, size of a photo (who of us has never technically intervened on a photo?), but of real manipulations to the point of not allowing to connect the person in real life to the online image with all its strengths and weaknesses (isn’t it much better when someone knows us personally and exclaims “you are better live!”?).

Netflix documentary The Social Dilemma revealed that suicides of pre-teen girls in the United States have skyrocketed by 150% and one of the main reasons is the increased use of unrealistic images on social media. Case24, a phone case company, conducted a study analyzing the editing habits of Brits before uploading an image to social media: 71% of people edit the selfies they post.

In 2019, photographer Rankin made the series of Selfie Harm shots in which he photographed 14 teenagers and handed them the image to edit and filter, until they considered it “ready for social media”, juxtaposing them to the un-retouched versions. Rankin found that the participants themselves preferred the originals, but did what they had seen their peers do. The photos are part of an exhibition and panel called “Visual Diet”, an initiative launched by M&C Saatchi, Rankin and MTArt Agency that explores the impact of images on our mental health.

“This is a new, improved reality, a world where teenagers (or even younger children) can digitally change themselves in seconds. Mix this readily available technology with celebrities and influencers sporting impossible shapes with impossible faces and we’ve got a recipe for disaster”.

Rankin

Are we becoming more obsessed with aesthetics, experiencing mental health disorders, low self-esteem or pathological behaviors more frequently than in the past, especially among young people? The discourse on images is really broad and complex, there would be many things to say and we will return to talk about this theme, because a more responsible fashion also involves giving voice to positive messages. Like that of a healthy relationship with our body and the acceptance of the impossibility of perfection.

Photo: Antoine Beauvillain (cover); other photos, from Selfie Harm, Rankin.

It’s November. We are temporarily in the city where I was born (Modena), for family reasons going back and forth from the hospital. I wear a bag bought many years ago, unfortunately in a fast fashion chain. I really like the model and I try to make it last for a long time, having now made a senseless purchase, before embracing sustainable fashion. It’s faux leather, so it’s okay about respect for animals but… often synthetic materials are used to avoid leather but have nothing respectful of animals and the environment. But who knew then? So I try to make it lasts as long as possible.

The damage

I’m in Modena and looking at the bag I exclaim: “I really like this model! It’s really cute!”. The next day, I don’t know how, a peeling appears on the top… To be thrown away.

I can’t do it. After collecting plastic and waste, I think and think again before throwing an item like this away. It should be a solution… If it were made of good quality leather, such as those we find in vintage and second-hand shops, it would have its charm even ruined (and in any case it wouldn’t peel like that) or it would be worth taking it to your trusted cobbler for repair. Instead this is what happens when you buy such pieces in fast fashion chains.

The solution

Time passes, the bag remains in a corner of the closet, waiting for a solution. Until one day, in fact, arranging fabrics and scraps I find a square of brown eco-leather. What if… What if I try to fix it myself, with a darker colored insert? I put the fabric close to the bag and it seems to work!

The recovery

I didn’t take any photographs of the bag before the restoration. It occurred to me during the recovery operation! In the video, however, you can see half as it was before the intervention. Originally, it was of a single color. I placed the sheet of a newspaper on the bag to take the shape of the insert to be covered. Then I placed the paper template on the back of the fabric, drawing the line to be cut with a pencil, trying to keep half a centimeter of the edge for safety. In fact, I imagined that the fabric would shrink once attached.

After sprinkling them with fabric glue, I patiently put the two shapes on the bag, mainly pressing on the edges and going over the corners.

Finally I passed the hair dryer, so that the inserts adhered better. I remembered when dad used to make me blow the hair dryer as a child to let the covers of school books adhere better…

Click here to watch the video

The outcome

And here is the result! I don’t dislike the final effect. I have to apply the glue again on the corners now that the first pass is dry. These are the points where it will otherwise tend to rise. In the meantime, however, I’ll show you in the photo.

How does it look to you? I really appreciate the idea of being able to use it for a long time to come! Even if it is no longer in a solid color, I can still wear it pleasantly.

Did you also happen to repair a “fast fashion quality level” purchase, before the conversion to sustainable fashion? If you want to tell me the story, write me by clicking on the button below! I will gladly listen to it and it will be nice to share it with those like us who are trying to reduce their environmental footprint.

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