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Hi Manuela, we’ve been chasing each other for years!

“I don’t know how long we’ve been saying this, yes, it’s a pleasure to collaborate together. We really looked forward to each other, but above all we like to talk about fashion and sustainability.”

Let’s start with a chat on the podcast! I’m intrigued by how, as a marketing researcher, you went on to launch a digital platform to promote a sustainable lifestyle and where you can find clothes, footwear and accessories that are in line with this style. What made you approach a more responsible fashion coming from marketing research?

“The path actually lasted a long time over the years, I got closer to sustainable fashion. Both as a researcher and therefore with great experience in going into the merits, I did a doctorate (you know well what it means to go into the depth of the why and how, asking yourself certain questions about production, materials, design). Both as a consumer, because in the end we are all consumers. Specifically, I have been doing marketing research since 2008 and focus on the valorization of brands and the value chain, therefore the entire journey of a product, from creation to its disposal and consumption in the fashion industry. At the same time I specialized in the perception that we consumers have about brands, above all in the luxury sector, but also in fashion, in fact, my first experience was in fast fashion. I look a lot at the emotional component, what it brings to people”

Fast Fashion… Tell us something more, Manuela.

“At the beginning the winning models were those related to the Inditex group, then to Zara. The Inditex group was born precisely because of the speed with which they proposed collection after collection. They had and have excellent integrated logistics, so it means when things are made, produced and shipped to the customer it’s a really quick process. Generally everything happens in their headquarters in Coruña, Spain, but the production takes place in many places, in China, India and Morocco and then they bring all the things to their headquarters. What happen? When I studied these things for my specialist thesis, so many years ago, 2008-2009, I went to their headquarters in Coruña to interview a manager. She told me how these garments, coming from different countries, were also of different quality and workmanship. The best of all are in Spain, Portugal and Morocco, because the key to everything was that in these countries the production was much more controlled and they are much closer to them, they are European countries. The quality of the fabrics was much higher. On the one hand I said ‘Wow, how nice, super logistics, an excellent system?’, on the other it left me with some doubts. I started thinking:

‘But… so… they themselves say that there are products A and products B, production A and production B. So, where are the quality, provenance, reliability of production if we produce in China, in Turkey, in India?’

Much less in those years did we talk about the environment, people, ethics. It was really all about production, producing as much as possible.

This was my origin, the more I investigated, the more I asked myself further questions. This touched my mind as a consumer. Every time I made a purchase I started to see the label, if I went to Zara because in any case I very often visited their stores all over the world and in that period in Spain, I went around, checking the origin, composition. Many times they didn’t look at me properly, just as they still don’t look at me now!”

I know about this! It then becomes an automatic but necessary gesture. Like when you read the ingredients in food products. But what changed then, Manuela, in your way of purchasing clothing once you became aware of all these things you are telling us? And who knows how many others you’ve seen and learned about.

“Certainly if I purchase from large fashion chains, I try to exclude Made in China and India, precisely because I don’t have that feeling of knowledge that perhaps you can have about other types of production that are more similar to ours. In Italy you know maybe in certain places where it is produced better, there is more communication, more integrated. I increasingly prefer quality. When I see prices that are too low, I discard because unfortunately I know what’s behind them. At the same time, I prefer soft, natural fabrics. I eliminated polyesters, both for myself and for the production of The Casual Twinkle. I try to buy Made in Italy also online. There are online sites where they explain that it is Made in Italy, I try to take that. Obviously we then know that Made in Italy can be the last phase of the process or the entire process. So I try to follow reliable brands, which communicate with us consumers about quality, 360° production.”

The attention to quality, the fabrics, the origin: Manuela, and the style?

“It always intertwines with the attention I pay to dressing with my style, which is very simple and elegant, very refined. I don’t like having clothes cuts that don’t give anything to the body, just as I don’t like wearing a stiff fabric. I love feeling good about myself, in harmony with my body, but at the same time I think that a woman’s body also deserves sensuality, softness. Each of us has a different body that needs to be enhanced. Unfortunately, many times low-cost garments or stiff fabrics are not made to highlight the shape of the body. In my opinion, responsible fashion is also a fashion that seeks out garments that are not only engaging for their aesthetic beauty, but also for a certain type of style and cut. Another thing, let’s say that there are dynamics that make me increasingly sensitive to the use of positive environmental, social and ethical practices. Once upon a time it wasn’t considered. Now I realize that I look better if I wear something that is honestly made well, not only well made for me, but also made well for those who work. I don’t feel good if I know that a garment was made by harming a worker, as unfortunately we fashion experts and everyone else knows well by now.”

You talked about various aspects that made you think and reflect. Manuela, in your experience in traditional fashion, what is the aspect that struck you most and that made you say enough with this type of fashion?

“Arianna, certainly since I started dressing my daughter it has been a bit of a key that has relieved me, because you know as long as you think about yourself, you have mechanisms that you have now put in place, when you have to dress someone else, like a mother with her children… I started trying to use the same concept that I use for myself, but unfortunately what I found were very low quality garments, practices behind which you can know because the cost is really low. You know, while for us we have all the wardrobes full, so we can create, compose, do, for the children I necessarily had to buy new. I must say that when I looked into the world of children, I honestly saw that they are a bit the first fruit of a less than conscious fashion, in the sense that apart from the price there is actually a cultural concept: children grow, so you don’t have to dress them with expensive clothes.

No! I say definitely no, because it’s not because they grow up, they deserve to be dressed in clothes that don’t have cuts, in polyesters… Many times maybe you get a dress that is apparently beautiful, but then you put it on and say ‘But no, my daughter can’t live with this.’ I recently saw a little dress in a polyester market with lemons, it’s hot right? There is a whole culture behind which I certainly care a lot about. There is the concept ‘I don’t spend on my child and then I buy lots of things, 3 X 2 or on sale’. These things that already cost €5, I get them for €3. In the end it is a significant expense because you fill your wardrobe with low-cost things for no big reason. Why I do this to my daughter? When one has to manage children, she tries to do the best. If you try to do well for yourself, for the children who are your extension you try to do even better. I absolutely didn’t feel like dressing them in traditional fashion that would harm both them and those who produce it, the environment, because these children’s clothes destroy the ecosystem.”

So that’s why you decided to create The Casual Twinkle? And what did you choose to propose on the platform?

“Yes, yes, absolutely. I care very much, as I said just now, about the education of my children, in the true sense of a respectful and positive culture towards what is part of them, therefore what we mothers, we women, put on our skin, so also on of them, even of what is around them. Unfortunately and fortunately, clothes are the first essence, it’s not just appearance. We Italians live in a wonderful country, made up of both natural wonders and an incredible fashion culture. It’s somehow a shame to dress them in big brands that don’t belong to us, that don’t care about the environment and lack style.

Surely my greatest desire that triggered this is precisely that children, my children but also future generations, can grow up with values, that are sensitive to the world and to people. The items of clothing, it seems banal or maybe one doesn’t think about it, but they also do this. I see it after years, already with my eldest daughter, she is however used to this culture, she begins to understand, I explain to her. Especially wearing beautiful things, she asks me to wear them again. Maybe they don’t understand until they are 4 or 5 years old, then at 6-7 years old, they too begin to form a culture, a habit of how we raised them. Therefore, in my online boutique I have chosen to give main space to children’s fashion, to create Total looks composed not only of garments but also of footwear and accessories that are casual and elegant.

Why elegant casual? Apart from that it’s a bit my style, but then I tried to think about children, in any case they must be dressed comfortably, they must be able to move, because they are constantly on the move. Style for me is something that is part of the essence of dressing. Well, I really wanted there to be harmony with nature. The harmony of The Casual Twinkle embraces solid principles that are environmental, social and ethical. As a marketing expert, I wanted the entire process, from design to use of the garment, to be traceable and controlled.”

What does it mean? That the production chain, the one I talked about before about Zara, which went to India, then returned to La Coruña in Spain, then came to us in Italy or returned to India or Turkey, I wanted this to be as short as possible . There is me who offers the products, there is the consumer who uses them and behind me there is only the brand that produces them. There is only one case, that of a Danish brand that produces in Bolivia, but one of the two founders is Bolivian, it is like the extension of this brand. Furthermore, it is essential for me that there is research behind everything: behind every brand I propose there is a huge selection of unique exclusive garments, made with natural products and for example for women they are all made in Italy and upcycling, therefore avoiding further waste. This is the thread that is always found in The Casual Twinkle: use of natural materials, support for people, support for the environment, non-waste, starting from design.”

What do we find on the platform for children?

“For children, we have polo shirts, shirts, sweatshirts that are hand embroidered in Treviso, therefore nearby. I saw how they do these hand embroideries and you immediately fall in love because they put passion, care, precision into it and they don’t have any type of tool other than the hand that embroiders and it’s something incredible. Then there are also the dresses, the trousers, the rompers. All of these have cashmere, linen or cotton and all of the highest quality, we fall within product protection schemes, they are all certified. I don’t have certifications but my suppliers have them precisely to provide continuity and protect both the consumer and those who work, who are really doing a job that is also useful for the environment.”

And for the little ones?

“There are bodysuits, dungarees, rompers, hand-embroidered in velvet, they are truly wonderful. To complete the look there are shoes: ankle boots, sneakers, sandals, everything you can think of in children’s shoes. These are handcrafted in Portugal by a Danish brand that is a pioneer of sustainability. Since 2005 they have been looking for the best solutions for children’s feet, because one thinks that a child’s foot, or rather perhaps one doesn’t think about it, is really very delicate and needs the right support in every phase of growth. These shoes are all made of leather. Some have also vegetable tanned, without chemical agents and all with non-toxic chemical substances and components. Then for the winter season we have this collection that I was talking about before coming from Bolivia, which are sweaters of alpaca garments. The peculiarity is that they are first and foremost handmade in Bolivia, but above all they are 100% in alpaca. In fact, I don’t know if anyone ever looks, me, you because you told me, at the labels: we rarely find 100% wool, let alone alpaca. Why alpaca? It is extremely soft and has properties that are thermoregulating and is a kind of fiber. These little alpaca hairs are all made together and really create a quality, a softness that is similar to cashmere. This brand, for example, supports the sustainable development of farmers and their families, including the education of their children”.

In addition to children’s clothing, you said that there are also women’s clothing, even for mothers.

“Lingerie, active wear, swimsuits, t-shirts. You know that t-shirt that all of us, or at least I, have always wanted to be soft, that fits well, that highlights the shape of the body, that doesn’t hang as long as a t-shirt, in the sense that we use it with the skirt, the we use it under the jacket, we can use it with jeans, with boots and it highlights the body. All the other pieces highlight the sensuality, the shapes of the body. The Casual Twinkle offers craftsmanship, style, details, comfort. Precisely because of my desire to have collections that are versatile, they can be used on multiple occasions, composing even with a few pieces that last over time, for example the alpaca sweaters are indestructible, they are incredible, but just as the polo shirts are, you can do as many washes as you want so that the cotton remains intact. We do good for our children and for us and for those who produce them.”

Manuela, I want to know something: Why this name?

“It is a name full of metaphors and is a very sweet essence. Casual is the lifestyle, casual but elegant. It is also a way of approaching life: when random events happen in our life, where maybe we are happy, maybe we are burdened, but in this casual way we find a kind of light-heartedness, a joy of living. Twinkle, on the other hand,  is the spark of these moments, it is a glow that illuminates us, the sparkling of the stars and the glitter of the sun’s rays. Do you know when the sun reflects its rays, or when the moon reflects its being on the sea? I’m from Trieste, so the twinkle of the rays of the sun and the moon on the sea  It fascinated me. Furthermore, Twinkle is also reminiscent of the Twinkle children’s lullaby, Twinkle, twinkle little star,  which every mother knows, it is a sweetness for children. It is a style sensitive to our life, where we are the ones who give meaning to our choices with our will, we are the ones who capture that spark that is within us and this is very important in the world of fashion. As fashion has somehow fallen, pushed us to buy and buy more and more, we can say stop with an elegant casual way of dressing, we decide to shine and re-emerge even in the world of fashion. It aims to be a reminder of nature full of charm, but also elegance and comfort, precisely a refined, refined style. It’s not just a brand, it’s also something more, it’s an approach to a human culture. You know, I also have a blog where I talk about life experiences as a mother, thoughts, travels, from a conscious perspective. I propose both my collections and other well-known brands. It’s just being casual and happy.”

What aspects of sustainability characterize the garments you propose, Manuela?

“In one place there are a few, very selected brands. For women it’s all upcycling, high quality regenerated fabrics. The products are zero kilometer, no new resources are used to produce the fabrics, because we use what already exists, following the concept of upcycling and reducing waste from the fashion industry. Our boutique embraces circular design, that is, both in the creative phase and in the planning, the resources and all the materials used and who makes these products are taken into consideration. From a perspective in harmony with nature. For example, in the production of alpaca garments, ladybugs are used as a natural pesticide, I fell in love with this concept. We give a lot of space to artisanal techniques such as embroidery, or all the brands make their products by hand. This is surprising to me, also because the design is innovative, while the techniques come from various textile traditions that have gradually improved over the years.”

Is there an item for children that you recommend most? And if so, why?

“This is a great question! As you may have understood, I love alpaca garments. The shirts are warm, they are thermoregulating, they are soft. With an alpaca sweater you can easily go through the entire season, but not just winter, even the first cold times of autumn or spring, this year’s crazy spring. Even for small children. I didn’t think so, but I have testers who are my children, I also tried it on the little one and used it a lot, they are tight and children need to feel pampered. They need color, to be wrapped. I also recommend polo shirts, embroidered dresses, rompers. Sorry, that’s a really difficult question! I care a lot about Made in Italy, because they are artisanal, because I have seen this company, I often go to visit them. They are truly incredible, they have a care, a passion in choosing fabrics. Together, we create truly stunning collections. And then the shoes: ankle boots for boys/girls have soft leather, they are thermoregulating, truly all made to support the foot.”

You mentioned your blog before, which I have been following for some time with beautiful images that talk about places, experiences in nature. Do you think this connection with the natural world also influenced your choice to move away from traditional fashion, and prefer to create something that had to do with brands more linked to sustainability?

“With this question you hit the nail on the head! I was born in Trieste, a city overlooking the sea, which however is a green plateau, that is, there is an immense hill made up of greenery and woods. So on the one hand I have always seen the sunset over the sea, on the other hand in 5 minutes I am in the middle of fragrant woods. I am very sporty, I have always practiced outdoor activities, by the sea, swimming, or running in the woods, I bring the dog, the children. My parents educated me and my brother in the mountains, in the sense that we went to the mountains a lot in all seasons. Several times I lived in very nice cities in Long Beach, California, near Los Angeles, in Madrid, in Vienna, Oxford, between study and work, I traveled around a bit. Each time the call of my natural world has always brought me home. This for me was decisive in creating my path, and it is a sensitivity that I have developed and continue to develop and live. There was a bit of a spark, regarding Twinkle, that made the pieces of The Casual Twinkle build”.

Can you tell us about any special places you’ve seen that made you think or inspire you about the impact we have on nature?

Yes of course, Arianna. Trieste is certainly a constant source of inspiration, the sky takes on incredible colours. I think precisely because of the light air, which somehow exists between the sea, the mountains, the woods. Definitely the mountains, a place that gives me peace, serenity, in the Dolomites, I usually go there. It seems to me that everything is in harmony with itself and with the things around it. Just the other weekend we were in the mountains, I saw a sunset over the mountains from the balcony of this apartment where we were staying, full of geraniums and flowers. And it had recently rained, the last sun was coming out, coloring the meadows in front bright green. There was also a stream nearby, you can hear the sound of flowing water. Scenarios like these that take you 100% mind body and make me think that there is a sense of completeness, very often that can be achieved even with just a few things, almost as if you didn’t need anything else. Especially in summer, when I walk to the top there is a majesty of nature that fascinates me and which seems like a gift that nature gives to us. At the same time, however, we know that nature is very fragile. Just look at how the weather and the morphology of the territory are changing. I was in the mountains, we were near the Marmolada, with the naked eye you see, I remember how it once was. You see the backward progress it’s making, how much it’s melting, that piece has even collapsed. I also tried to explain this to my daughter for a while, to remember this thing. I think nature is a great inspiration, but it also makes me reflect on the fact that we definitely need to protect it.”

As a single mom with a spirit of adventure, how have you had these experiences with your daughter? Where did you go? Struggle and beauty of traveling with her?

“Yes, Arianna, you know once a friend of mine asked me what is the most difficult thing about being a single mother and almost without thinking I told her ‘sharing the experiences I lived with my daughter with someone else’, but in this case, obviously, with the father. Well, this has always been a difficulty for me, because I am still very expansive in certain things, in adventures, in beautiful events. I like to talk and discuss. We were in the mountains and I walked among the peaks in all weathers, always paying attention to the conditions. I have become very good and know all the weather conditions all the time. I know how long I’ll be there, I calculate the times, the rhythms, the extra clothing to change in case we get wet. They are the little adventures of when you are alone, because you have to be prepared for every eventuality. Then also with her backpack on her shoulder, when she started walking. I never gave up. Even what I liked, maybe I taught her a little, but in any case I actually made myself happy too.”

Where have you been?

“We went to the Basque Country, went to visit a friend, then we spent a few days alone. I took her to Lapland, to the Arctic. This was perhaps the journey that made me understand how much I can ultimately count on myself, on my strengths. These are perhaps demanding trips where you sleep little, you have to organize. But all this opened my heart and my mind. You travel with a little creature that you have to raise and defend, protect, teach. You are alone with a child, you are not dealing with an adult, you also have to find a way for yourself that is fun, that is not a chore. I have to tell you the truth, in the end all these efforts, especially the physical effort at certain moments, has always been rewarded with complicity, extreme serenity. We told each other every kind of story imaginable. We laughed like crazy, sometimes when we were angry we didn’t speak to each other. Now there is also the 2 year old brother, we are a kind of total harmony without limits, it’s very pleasant. As a mother, you always hope to raise serene, sensitive children, in my case also with a positive culture because I realize that it’s a bit of a mental switch. I have it and would love to teach it. I hope that with these adventures, a little crazy, I realize, a little outside the box, the children can both have a respectful way towards themselves, in achieving their objectives, their goals, and also live in harmony with the world around them.”

How beautiful these trips are, Manuela, especially the one in Lapland! I had seen the photos and who knows how exciting it must have been to take this trip with your little girl too! Is there anything you want to say, any advice you want to give to mothers for choosing clothes for their boys and girls?

“Yes, thank you for this question. I recommend taking a few items, perhaps slightly growing and which are versatile. What does this mean? To think about the season, not the event, to think about the shirt for the winter, the warm shoe or the one for the rain. Not to think about that party, that wedding, because those are unique cases. We must get children’s clothes that are long-lasting. So, in my opinion, spend a little more on things that have nice cuts, a nice style, that not only look beautiful but actually are. If the sustainable issue is involved, they cannot cost little, because unfortunately if they cost little it automatically means that they are not sustainable. Spend more on a single item rather than buying many items that look good but fall shapelessly and are worth little. Maybe be a little wary of big chains, in the sense that many cities are full of big chains. You search for the particular brand and unfortunately these are found online, not because I am online, but there is much more choice very often. And to trust the brand, in the sense of seeing the product page and what it says. Because very often many say they are sustainable, but they are not”.

In your opinion, what should we look at on the page to understand if they are more sustainable?

“Look a little at the description of the brand and also at the history, if there is a sustainability page, that they are not things just to say, but that they are truly heartfelt, that there are production photos. Or even that it is well described on the product page, a nice size guide, a nice presentation of the product, but really beautiful, that tells you the story of that product. Very often it says made ‘in EU’, European Union. Where? How? We as consumers always have to ask ourselves questions, even if we are not technicians, but every garment has a story, every brand has it. Also, I think dressing kids a few sizes up doesn’t hurt. Indeed, they grow and the products are expensive, especially if, as we were saying, they are made well. Without any problems, a boy or a girl who dresses 116 can take 128. Let’s say that from the age of half onwards, children have constant growth. A few centimeters more, unless it has to be a tight shirt on the neck, a crew neck if you take it a little wider it’s not that it’s too big for you, if the garments are made well. Don’t think that by buying items that cost more you will end up spending more, because you have essential things. Don’t fill your closets: just as we shouldn’t fill ours, so we shouldn’t fill our children’s closets. And pay close attention to shoes. They are fundamental. Always measure the foot and calculate an extra 1 cm. Above all, I remember once a physiatrist told me ‘You know, in the early years children have really delicate feet and need support’. Here it was one of those ‘casual twinkles’, as I call them. They actually made me compose the piece, it’s really advice I give about shoes. They are essential for children.

Shop with love. Not only towards yourself, that the child is beautiful, but also for the clothes you buy, that they do good because the planet is so beautiful, but it is also so fragile.”

Thank you Manuela for telling us about the clothes, especially for children, for giving the advice and also for making us imagine your adventures with your little girl and now also with your little boy! Next time we hope to meet in nature for another episode. Who knows, maybe something else together. Thank you for telling us about your experience and your project.

“Thank you Arianna, thanks to you it was a pleasure to have this chat, it is certainly an excellent idea to create an episode in the midst of nature. And we hope to meet soon because we talk to each other a lot in various ways, but we have never managed to see each other in person. Congratulations again for the excellent work you do and the passion you put into it. See you soon!”

The Casual Twinkle > Website; Instagram; Facebook.

Puoi ascoltare qui l’articolo: Audio-à-porter – Alpaca, Ladina e Simona 1

Circondata dalle montagne della Valmalenco con le punte innevate, accerchiata dalla natura e dai fiori della padrona di casa, siedo al sole nel giardino di Ladina, allevatrice di alpaca, davanti alla veranda del suo laboratorio. Sono di nuovo in questo posto speciale, dopo aver frequentato qualche anno fa un corso di filatura e tintura naturale della lana, per scrivere di Ladina, sua figlia Simona e dei loro “ragazzi”. Così sono affettuosamente nominati infatti i veri padroni di casa di Alpacas la Foppa, quando non vengono chiamati uno a uno per nome: di fianco all’abitazione e al negozio, in una stalla e due ampi recinti, vivono 12 alpaca, accanto a capre e pecore. Qui regna un amore smisurato per queste simpatiche creature. Tutto ruota intorno al loro benessere. Al punto che se chiamate e insistete per vederli in orari o giornate o periodi non previsti, Ladina vi dirà fermamente che non è possibile se comporta un disagio, uno sforzo o un affaticamento per i suoi “ragazzi”. “Prima il benessere degli animali, poi i capricci”, mi spiega con una risolutezza che nasconde amorevole tenerezza per gli alpaca.

Nella prima puntata su questo posto incantevole, vi raccontiamo dei protagonisti, gli alpaca. Non perdete la seconda puntata, in cui parleremo della lana che proviene da questi animali, affrontando lo spinoso tema “è una tortura o non è una tortura per l’animale?”. Vi racconteremo anche dei gomitoli e delle creazioni che si possono acquistare da Ladina e Simona, le ascolteremo parlarne in un video!

Partiamo da dove la lana ha origine: gli animali.

Come avete iniziato ad allevare alpaca? 

Abbiamo visto un servizio di Melaverde su questi animali, ci siamo incuriositi e abbiamo iniziato a cercare informazioni su internet riguardo gli allevamenti. Siamo andate a visitarne, per saperne di più. Quando li abbiamo visti da subito ce ne siamo innamorati! Abbiamo cominciato nel 2010 con tre alpaca: Kelita, Rodrigo e Fernando. 

Vi eravate documentate su questi splendidi animali?

Sì, ho letto un libro, ho cercato su internet, mi sono abbonata alla rivista Lamas. Fonti per lo più straniere (tedesche o americane) perché in Italia si trova poco. Mi ha aiutato molto un libro di un’autrice americana che ha sviluppato un metodo di approccio agli alpaca molto valido, che rispetta tanto il loro mondo, il loro modo di pensare, la comprensione dei loro movimenti. Sono aspetti importanti da capire prima di agire e avere a che fare con loro.

Capire gli alpaca è cruciale, perché non parliamo di semplici animali domestici, hanno caratteri ben particolari!

Sì, esatto. Sono tanto curiosi e allo stesso tempo riservati. È proprio questa riservatezza che va compresa! Bisogna capire che non amano il contatto fisico.

Quindi non possiamo venire qui e fiondarci ad accarezzarli rincorrendoli, giusto?

Proprio no… Hanno questa esigenza di non voler sempre essere toccati, accarezzati, portati in giro. Sono animali molto, molto intelligenti. Hanno il loro modo di esprimersi e capiscono ciò che vuoi da loro. Se entro nel recinto a mani vuote, mi guardano, mi studiano: “Viene solo a vedere, viene a trovarci”. Se entro con la cavezza (un accessorio che con la longhina serve per condurre gli animali), capiscono che è ora di fare un giro e si comportano in modo molto diverso. 

Si fanno capire anche con i versi, a proposito come si chiama il verso dell’alpaca?

Humming!  È la loro modalità di comunicare tra di loro e pure con noi. Anche con il movimento delle orecchie “parlano” o con il modo di inclinare la testa. È diverso dal linguaggio per esempio di un cane o di un gatto. Bisogna comprendere una cosa: l’alpaca nella natura è una preda. Per cui quando entriamo nel recinto ci vedono come predatori. Se entra un estraneo si chiedono: “Viene in pace o è un potenziale aggressore?”. Lì entra in gioco il loro linguaggio corporeo. 

Quando allora ci accompagnano nelle passeggiate per loro è una sofferenza?

No, se vedessi una sofferenza per loro non li farei uscire. Lasciamo che siano loro ad avvicinarsi per la passeggiata. È capitato di lasciarne a casa uno. Quando arrivo con le cavezzine e vedono schierate alcune persone, capiscono subito che è ora di uscire. Se non volessero passeggiare, non si lascerebbero prendere e per prima non li forzerei. Stabiliamo orari e giornate proprio per rispettare il loro benessere. In luglio e agosto, definiamo un calendario di visite prestabilite (3 giorni alla settimana, di cui 2 qui al laboratorio con attività di fattoria didattica per i bambini e 1 di gita sui sentieri verso gli alpeggi). Negli altri mesi solo nei week-end o su richiesta. Da novembre poi prevediamo un periodo di riposo, per lasciare che gli alpaca vivano in tranquillità la loro vita naturale, che pascolino, mangino e dormano serenamente. Quando mi trovo davanti a chi insiste molto per farli uscire dal recinto in momenti inopportuni per gli animali, senza comprendere le motivazioni, penso: “Non è un circo… né uno zoo…”. Purtroppo ultimamente è diventata un po’ una moda, quella dell’alpaca. Mi hanno telefonato per chiedermi di comprarne uno da tenere in casa… Non è un peluche, non è un animale da compagnia. Sono stata contattata anche per averne uno per fare una pubblicità, ma abbiamo detto no perché voleva dire un grande disagio per l’animale, sia nel trasporto sia nel luogo chiuso in cui volevano girare”.

Gli alpaca, Ladina, mi sembra che ci aiutino a capire una grande lezione sulla natura: dobbiamo avvicinarci con rispetto, non volendo dominarla, come spesso facciamo. Questi animali, con il loro peculiare carattere, ci invitano a comprendere le esigenze naturali. Se li amiamo, li rispettiamo. Giusto?

Sì, per esempio ci insegnano osservando la loro scarsa propensione a farsi accarezzare. Nelle passeggiate, avvisiamo di non toccarli senza avere accortezza: poche volte e solo sul collo. Quando camminano non desiderano essere toccati, meglio nelle soste. Non gradiscono il contatto fisico, neppure tra di loro, tranne tra mamma e cuccioli. La mamma alpaca è molto protettiva, il piccolo diventa la sua ombra fino a 8-10 mesi. Altrimenti, tra adulti, non si sdraiano neppure uno accanto all’altro e, se durante il trekking si sfiorano per caso camminando, si sputano! (Lo sputo è segno di disappunto o di difesa).

Sorrido, perché li capisco e penso che un po’ mi sento un alpaca (non per lo sputo), quando mi trovo nelle ore di punta in metropolitana o sul bus! Un’altra curiosità che possiamo raccontare è la dinamica tra i maschi del gruppo. 

Sì, Sancho è al momento il capo branco, un alpaca nel pieno della gioventù, sopra i tre anni, con un carattere forte. Fernando, che ha 15 anni, non vorrebbe mai essere capo branco perché ama stare per i fatti suoi. Yavari e Misky invece cercano di prendere il posto di Sancho, scontrandosi per avere la leadership.

Un momento di tenerezza tra loro da raccontarci?

Tra le femmine, Kelita ha alcuni problemi alla cute per cui ha bisogno di creme e gocce. Quando le metto le gocce, Lonquimai viene a controllare, mette il naso nel vasetto per verificare cos’è, segue tutto!

Ecco chi sono i 12 alpaca! I miei preferiti sono la coppia di fidanzati Yuma – Lonquimai.

-fine prima puntata-

English – The alpacas, their wool and the natural products: interview to the breeders Ladina and Simona

Surrounded by the mountains of the Valmalenco with snow-capped peaks, in the middle of nature and the flowers of the lady of the house, I sit in the sun in the garden of Ladina, an alpaca breeder, in front of the veranda of her laboratory. I am again in this special place, having attended a course in spinning and natural wool dyeing a few years ago, to write about Ladina, her daughter Simona and their “kids”. In this way indeed the real hosts of Alpacas la Foppa are affectionately named, when they are not called one by one by first name: next to the house and the shop, in a stable and two large enclosures, 12 alpacas live, next to goats and sheep. Here a boundless love for these funny creatures reigns. Everything revolves around their well-being. To the point that if you call and insist on seeing them at unexpected times or days or periods, Ladina will firmly tell you that it is not possible if it involves an inconvenience, an effort or a fatigue for her “kids”. “First the welfare of the animals, then the whims”, she explains to me with a resoluteness that hides loving tenderness for the alpacas.

In the first episode on this enchanting place, we tell you about the protagonists, the alpacas. Do not miss the second episode, in which we will talk about the wool that comes from the alpacas, facing the thorny theme “is it torture or is it not torture for the animal?”. We will also tell you about the balls of wool and the creations that you can buy from Ladina and Simona, we will listen to them talking about it in a video!

Let’s begin from where the wool originates: the animals.

How did you start raising alpacas?

We saw a report of Melaverde on these animals, we were curious and we started looking for information on the internet about the farms. We went to visit them, to learn more. When we saw those animals, we fell immediately in love with them! We started in 2010 with three alpacas: Kelita, Rodrigo and Fernando.

Did you read up on these beautiful animals?

Yes, I read a book, I searched the internet, I subscribed to Lamas magazine. Mostly from foreign sources (German or American) because there is little in Italy. A book by an American author who developed a very valid method of approach to alpacas, which respects both their world, their way of thinking, understanding of their movements helped me a lot. These are important aspects to comprehend before acting and dealing with these animals.

Understanding alpacas is crucial, because we are not talking about simple pets, they have very special characters!

Yes exactly. They are so curious and at the same time reserved. It is precisely this confidentiality that must be understood! We must understand that they do not like physical contact.

So we can’t come here and rush to stroke them, running after them, right?

Not really… They have this need to not always want to be touched, caressed, carried around. They are very, very intelligent animals. They have their own way of expressing themselves and they understand what you want from them. If I enter the enclosure with empty hands, they look at me, they study me: “She comes alone to see, she comes to visit us”. If I enter with the cavezza (an accessory that, with the lead, serves to lead the animals), they understand that it is time to walk around and behave very differently.

They make themselves understood even with verses. By the way, what does an alpaca’s call sound like?

Humming! It is their way of communicating with each other and also with us. Even with the movement of the ears “they talk” or with the way they recline the head. It is different from the language of a dog or cat, for example. We must understand one thing: the alpaca in nature is a prey. So when we enter the fence they see us as predators. If a stranger enters, they ask themselves, “Is he/she at peace or is he/she a potential aggressor?”. Their body language comes into play there.

When they accompany us on walks, is it then a pain for them?

No, if I saw a suffering for them I would not let them out. We let them get closer to us for the walk. It happened to me to leave one at home. When I arrive with the little “cavezza” and they see some people lined up, they immediately understand that it’s time to go out. If they didn’t want to walk, they wouldn’t let themselves be caught and I wouldn’t force them first. We set schedules and days just to respect their well-being. In July and August, we define a schedule of pre-arranged visits (3 days a week, of which 2 here at the laboratory with educational farm activities for children and 1 excursion on the paths to the mountain pastures). In the other months only on weekends or on request. From November onwards we expect a period of rest, to let the alpacas live their natural life in peace, graze, eat and sleep peacefully. When I’m in front of those who insist a lot to get them out of the fence at inappropriate times for animals, without understanding the reasons, I think: “It’s not a circus… nor a zoo…”. Unfortunately, alpaca has become a fashion trend lately. They phoned me to ask to buy one of them to keep it at home… It’s not a stuffed animal, it’s not a pet. I was also contacted to borrow one for an advertisement, but we said no because it meant a great inconvenience to the animal, both in transport and in the enclosed place where they wanted to shoot”.

The alpacas, Ladina, seem to me to help us understand a great lesson on nature: we must approach it with respect, not wanting to dominate it, as we often do. These animals, with their peculiar character, invite us to understand natural needs. If we love them, we respect them. Right?

Yes, for example, they teach us by observing their low propensity to be caressed. In walks, we advise not to touch them without being careful: a few times and only on the neck. When they walk they do not want to be touched, better at the stops. They don’t like physical contact, even between them, except between mum and puppies. The alpaca mother is very protective, the baby becomes her shadow up to 8-10 months. Otherwise, between adults, they don’t even lie down next to each other, and if during the trek they touch by chance walking they spit! (Spit is a sign of disappointment or defense).

I smile, because I understand them and I think a little I feel like an alpaca (not for spitting), when I am in the rush hours on the subway or on the bus! Another curiosity that we can tell is the dynamics between the males of the group.

Yes, Sancho is currently the leader of the herd, an alpaca in the midst of youth, over three years old, with a strong character. Fernando, who is 15 years old, would never want to be a leader because he loves being on his own. Yavari and Misky instead try to take Sancho’s place, clashing for leadership.

A moment of tenderness between them to tell us?

Among females, Kelita has some skin problems so she needs creams and drops. When I put the drops in, Lonquimai comes to check, puts her nose in the jar to see what it is, she controls everything!

Here it is who the 12 alpacas are! My favorites are the engaged couple Yuma – Lonquimai.

-end of the first episode-

Il fragile ecosistema del lago Atitlán era a rischio per colpa della plastica inquinante. E quando l’impianto di trattamento di rifiuti solidi per la gestione di un decennio di immondizia si riempì a metà dopo solo sei mesi, soprattutto con plastica monouso, fu chiara l’emergenza di un cambiamento totale.  Al posto di costruire un impianto più grande, il sindaco Mauricio Méndez ha deciso di applicare alcune efficaci misure per incoraggiare un cambiamento duraturo e sostenibile. L’incubo di enormi costi per rimpiazzare l’impianto e la paura che i detriti finissero per inquinare il lago, considerato uno dei più belli, ha spinto i leader della comunità a trovare altre soluzioni.

1. Tolleranza zero – Divieto di prodotti usa-e-getta di plastica e polistirolo, tra cui borse, cannucce e contenitori.
2. Per vincere le resistenze degli abitanti i leader della città sono andati casa per casa per parlare di gestione dei rifiuti  con tutti gli abitanti (circa 13.000). In questo modo hanno anche potuto comprendere la ragione della resistenza: per lo più le persone non potevano permettersi di comprare alternative biodegradabili.
3. Sulla base di quanto emerso, raccolta di tutti i prodotti in plastica e polistirolo, dando in cambio alternative riutilizzabili o biodegradabili, completamente gratuiti. Il governo ha deciso di alleviare l’onere finanziario dei membri della comunità.
4. Per far fronte al problema maggiore, l’uso dei sacchetti di plastica, il comune ha distribuito alle famiglie 2.000 cestini di gomma fatti a mano dagli artigiani di Totonicapán. (Costo totale delle misure 3 e 4: 90.000 GTQ, pari a circa 10.000 Euro).
5. “Tu basura es mi fortuna”, la tua spazzatura è la mia fortuna, così dice il sindaco – Introduzione di sanzioni economiche per chi utilizza materiali vietati, sia cittadini (300 GTQ, ossia 33 euro, una cifra non da poco considerato il reddito medio locale) sia aziende (15.000 GTQ, pari a 1.670 euro).
6. Una serie di telecamere aiuta a controllare la spazzatura e ha contribuito a ridurre i problemi criminali. Quando i cassonetti clandestini compaiono, indagano su chi è responsabile di buttare via la spazzatura, alla ricerca di qualche indizio che porti all’autore del reato. 
7. Miglioramento del sistema di gestione dei rifiuti – Lancio di progetti mirati al recupero, alla riduzione e al riciclo degli scarti e soprattutto alla diffusione di una mentalità basata su queste azioni. La spazzatura della città è trasformata in carburante o altri derivati. I pescatori locali hanno creato una propria iniziativa per pulire il Lago Atitlán dai rifiuti.

Il risultato?

Secondo il direttore della pianificazione municipale, Gonzáles, la città è “ritornata a utilizzare ciò che era usato ancestralmente“: hoja del maxán (foglie grandi) per impacchettare la carne dal macellaio, un cesto per trasportare le tortillas, tovaglioli di stoffa per comprare il pane, carta per avvolgere gli oggetti, come se la plastica non avesse mai tormentato la città. Quando i sacchetti di gomma riutilizzabili sono riempiti fino all’orlo, le donne mettono da parte i prodotti asciutti nei loro grembiuli.

Inoltre, l’afflusso di turisti nella città è aumentato del 40% nel 2018, grazie al ripristino e alla conservazione della bellezza naturale del lago.

Il sindaco afferma di aver ricevuto innumerevoli critiche da diversi settori della società, nonché una richiesta di incostituzionalità da parte della Camera dell’Industria del Guatemala.

Ma il comune ecologico continua a sviluppare progetti di conservazione ambientale: impianti di trattamento delle acque reflue residue, passaggio a luci a LED, divieto di estrazione della sabbia dal lago e utilizzo di rifiuti come materiali per costruire tavoli e sedie per le scuole locali. Gonzáles ritiene che questi sforzi “avranno un impatto positivo non solo sull’ambiente, ma anche sull’economia delle popolazioni locali”.

“Penso che il cambiamento strutturale debba avvenire attraverso il contagio, la metamorfosi, senza dipendere da nessuno che non sia noi. Il Guatemala si è impoverito ma è un milionario nella ricchezza naturale. Ci manca la volontà di attivare questa ricchezza. Siamo un diamante grezzo” – Mauricio Méndez.

ENGLISH: San Pedro La Laguna, a city without plastic: the effective measures of a mayor with a green heart

The fragile ecosystem of Lake Atitlán was at risk due to the polluting plastic. And when the solid waste processing facility for managing a decade of garbage was half full after only six months, mostly with disposable plastic, the emergence of a total change was clear. Instead of building a larger facility, Mayor Mauricio Méndez decided to apply some effective measures to encourage sustainable and lasting change. The nightmare of huge costs to replace the plant and the fear that debris would end up polluting the lake, considered one of the most beautiful, has pushed community leaders to find other solutions.

1. Zero Tolerance – Prohibition of disposable plastic and polystyrene products, including bags, straws and containers.
2. To overcome the resistance of the inhabitants, the community leaders visit each house to talk about waste management to all citizens (around 13,000). In this way they were also able to understand the reason for the resistance: mostly people could not afford to buy biodegradable alternatives.
3. Based on what emerged, collection of all plastic and polystyrene products, giving in return reusable or biodegradable alternatives, completely free. The government has decided to alleviate the financial burden of community members.
4. To cope with the major problem (the use of plastic bags), the municipality has distributed to families 2,000 handmade rubber baskets by the artisans of Totonicapán. (Total cost of measures in point 3 and 4: 90,000 GTQ, equal to about 10,000 euros).
5. “Tu basura es mi fortuna”, your trash is my fortune, says the mayor – Introduction of economic sanctions for those who use banned materials, both citizens (300 GTQ, or 33 euros, a figure not just considered the average income local) and companies (15,000 GTQ, equal to 1,670 euros).
6. A series of cameras help controlling the garbage and has facilitated the decrease of criminal problems. When the clandestine bins appear, they investigate who is responsible for throwing away the garbage, looking for some clue that leads to the perpetrator.
7. Improvement of the waste management system – Launch of projects aimed at the recovery, reduction and recycling of waste and above all the diffusion of a mentality based on these actions. The city’s trash is turned into fuel or other derivatives. Local fishermen have created their own initiative to clean Lake Atitlán from waste.

The outcome?

According to the director of municipal planning, Gonzáles, the city has “returned to use what was used ancestrally“: hoja del maxán (large leaves) to pack meat from the butcher, a basket to carry the tortillas, cloth napkins to buy the bread, paper to wrap objects, as if plastic had never tormented the city. When the reusable rubber bags are filled to the brim, the women put the dry products aside in their aprons.

Furthermore, the tourist visits to the city have increased by 40% in 2018, thanks to the restoration and conservation of the natural beauty of the lake.

The mayor claims to have received countless criticisms from various sectors of society, as well as a request for unconstitutionality from the Chamber of Industry of Guatemala.

But the ecological municipality continues to develop environmental conservation projects: waste water treatment plants, LED lights, a ban on the extraction of sand from the lake and the use of waste as materials for building tables and chairs for local schools. Gonzáles believes that these efforts “will have a positive impact not only on the environment, but also on the economy of local populations”.

“I think that structural change must take place through contagion, metamorphosis, without depending on anyone other than us. Guatemala has become impoverished but it is a millionaire in natural wealth. We lack the will to activate this wealth. We are a rough diamond“- Mauricio Méndez.

Cover photo: Tourism Media.

Nel museo archeologico di Spoleto in Umbria è esposta la ricostruzione di un telaio usato per bordature raffinate, costituito con una serie di tavolette quadrate. Nella tomba sono stati ritrovati 21 rocchetti, che tenevano i fili tirati. 

Le donne umbre di alto rango nella necropoli sono riconoscibili dagli oggetti utilizzati nelle varie fasi di lavorazione della lana (filatura, tessitura e cucito), fusaiole, rocchetti in ceramica, aghi e coltellini in ferro. 

Questi e altri oggetti interessanti ritrovati nell’area sono esposti al museo di Spoleto.

Non è affascinante come un’arte sia coltivata da secoli con sapienza (e come questi oggetti siano giunti fino a noi)?

English:

From VII B.C., sustainable and handcrafted fabrics 

Reconstruction of a loom with tablets, Spoleto

In the archaeological museum of Spoleto in Umbria, the reconstruction of a frame used for refined borders is exhibited, constituted with a series of square tablets. In the tomb were found 21 spools, which held the threads pulled.

The high social class Umbrian women were recognizable in the necropolis by the objects used in the various stages of wool processing (spinning, weaving and sewing), fusarols, ceramic spools, needles and iron knives.

These and other interesting objects were found in the area are exhibited at the Spoleto museum.

Isn’t it fascinating how an art has been cultivated for centuries with wisdom (and how these objects have come to us)?

Un gruppo di donne ha realizzato all’uncinetto un albero di Natale alto sei metri e di tre metri e mezzo di diametro.
L’albero, che si trova fino al 6 gennaio nella piazza principale di Trivento (Campobasso), è composto da 1.300 mattonelle di lana lavorata all’uncinetto.

Lucia Santorelli, che ha guidato il gruppo, aveva realizzato in agosto un altro progetto all’uncinetto: un tappeto di 640 metri steso nelle vie del centro e venduto per beneficenza.

L’albero fatto a mano sta riscuotendo molto successo in rete!

English: A hand-made Christmas tree!

A group of women have crocheted a Christmas tree six meters high and three and a half meters in diameter.
The tree, which is located until the 6th of January in the main square of Trivento (Campobasso; Italy) is made up of 1,300 crochet wool granny squares.

Lucia Santorelli, who led the group, had made another crochet project in August: a 640-meter carpet spread in the streets of the center and sold for charity.

The handmade tree is having a great success on the web!

Un ricordo: un anno fa a New York. Tenevo molto a vedere questo negozio plastic-free, di una ragazza newyorkese che seguo da anni, ed eccoci qui!

Un negozio in cui è possibile trovare tante alternative interessanti per vivere senza plastica e in generale per ridurre la produzione di rifiuti. Resterete stupiti scoprendo quanti oggetti di uso comune contengono plastica o creano rifiuti inquinanti. Un esempio? I tradizionali cerotti! Possiamo sostituirli con un analogo prodotto composto al 100% da fibra di bambù biologico. La custodia per il cellulare, il fermaporta, gli accessori per i nostri amici a quattro zampe, il pelapatate e tante altre idee ecologiche.

Qui si portano le buste da casa. Qui non si stampano scontrini (arrivano via mail). Qui si possono seguire tanti work-shop interessanti. Qui si riflette sull’impatto dei propri acquisti. Qui si realizza quali oggetti di plastica si possono evitare!

“Credi di salvare il pianeta?, ogni tanto qualcuno ci chiede.
“Sì, certo!”, rispondiamo

Link al negozio:https://packagefreeshop.com

ENGLISH: Visiting the Package Free Shop!

Sharing a memory: last year in New York. I was keen to visit this plastic-free shop, managed by a NY girl I’m following since a long time and… here we are!

A shop where you can find interesting alternatives to live without plastics and to reduce waste production. You’ll be surprised discovering how many daily-use objects contain plastics or create polluting waste. An example? Traditional band-aids! We can replace them with a similar product made by 100% organic bamboo fibre. The cellular case, the doorstop, the accessories for our pet friends, the vegetable peeler and other many ecological ideas.

Here we bring our shopping bag from home. Here tickets are not printed (you receive them by e-mail). Here it is possible to participate to interesting workshops. Here we reflect on the impact of our purchases. Here we realise which plastic objects we can avoid!

“Do you think you save the planet?”, sometimes somebody asks us.
“Yes, sure!”, we reply

Link to shop: https://packagefreeshop.com

From their site: “HOW DO WE MEASURE OUR SUCCESS? WE LIKE TO LOOK AT THE OVERALL IMPACT OF THE PRODUCTS WE ARE SELLING. SINCE OPENING WE’VE KEPT AN ESTIMATED 4,025,600 PLASTIC STRAWS, 3,061,240 PLASTIC BAGS AND 1,419,260 NON-RECYCLABLE BOTTLES AND CUPS OUT OF LANDFILL, TO NAME A FEW”.

Finalmente il viaggio che stavamo aspettando! Siamo in vacanza in una bella località, magari tanto sognata, e un po’ per ricordarci dell’esperienza, un po’ per dire ai nostri cari e amici che ci siamo ricordati di loro anche in ferie non riusciamo a resistere ai souvenir.
Pensandoci bene, abbiamo proprio necessità di portare a casa l’ennesima maglietta con la scritta del posto che abbiamo visitato? O il miliardesimo ninnolo attira polvere che forse guarderemo una volta all’anno? Siamo certi che faremo davvero felici i nostri cari o i nostri amici presentandoci con oggetti destinati magari a stare in un cassetto o a un’altra fine diversa dall’utilizzo?

Con la mia famiglia da sempre porto avanti la tradizione dell’invio di una bella cartolina per far sapere loro che anche in vacanza non ci scordiamo di pensarli! Certo, la tentazione di comprare ricordini è irresistibile… Ma ci rende davvero felici portare a casa un prodotto non etico, realizzato in massa (e quindi nelle case di chissà quanti altri turisti), con un impatto sull’ambiente?
Perché non provare allora la piccola sfida di una caccia al souvenir responsabile? Quest’anno in Norvegia ho provato ad andare in giro alla ricerca di piccoli regali che fossero senza plastica, locali, naturali e utili. Il tempo era pochissimo, ma… nella foto il risultato! Mi è piaciuto molto perché mi ha fatto riflettere su come sia difficile acquistare qualcosa senza plastica, con in più le caratteristiche desiderate. Inoltre mi ha portato a pensare di più prima di comprare qualcosa, a ponderare l’acquisto. Oltre a portarmi dentro negozi poco turistici, amalgamandomi ai locali nelle loro abitudini.

Volete provare anche voi? Ecco alcuni suggerimenti per perfetti turisti responsabili! Se provate, raccontateci l’esperienza e mandateci le foto delle vostre idee, saranno utili ad altri viaggiatori.

Cosa possiamo fare?

1) Possiamo sostenere l’economia locale.

Verifichiamo dove è stato prodotto l’oggetto che ha attirato la nostra attenzione. Siamo alle Canarie e si tratta di una maglietta prodotta in India? Ci troviamo in Grecia e il vestitino viene dalla Repubblica Ceca? Per ringraziare un paese di averci accolti sarebbe una buona idea sostenerne l’economia, soprattutto favorire la conservazione della vera eredità culturale e dare la possibilità agli artigiani locali di mantenere il proprio lavoro. Inoltre, i prodotti importati hanno un’impronta inquinante maggiore. Ha poi senso portare una borsa con le palme dalla Florida made in China?
L’anno scorso attraversando le saline di una piccola isola francese ho acquistato direttamente dai produttori il sale marino integrale, un regalino utile e apprezzato dai destinatari. In Brasile ho comprato da una sarta del posto camicie da notte realizzate artigianalmente e rifinite con il tradizionale ricamo locale. Una colorata amaca magistralmente intessuta in Venezuela mi riporta ai colori del suo bellissimo mare.
Supportiamo in generale le attività che impiegano dipendenti locali, utilizzando materie prime locali; vale per i souvenir ma anche per il cibo, l’alloggio, le escursioni e le visite guidate.

2) Possiamo visitare i mercati locali e i negozi second-hand.

Sono una fiera di odori, colori, rumori. Richiedono pazienza quando sono molto affollati, ma non tutti lo sono in tutti gli orari. Andiamo alla scoperta di un paese anche attraverso il suo mercato, impariamo cosa è prodotto localmente, cosa cresce in quella terra, quali saperi sono stati coltivati. Potremo fare acquisti non tanto costosi e dare una mano direttamente ai lavoratori locali. In Turchia al mercato ho trovato un efficace sapone biologico di olio di oliva e daphne utilizzato nella tradizione locale con un’antica ricetta. Dai mercati siciliani mi piace regalare mandorle, origano, miele, pistacchi, semi di sesamo, farine di grani antichi locali.

3) Possiamo comprare dagli artigiani del posto o da associazioni che aiutano gli artigiani locali.

Ogni paese ha le proprie tradizioni, meglio ancora: ogni area di un paese. Scopriamo nei libri, nelle guide o su internet quali sono quelle del luogo dove villeggiamo. La ricerca renderà la nostra vacanza un vero viaggio alla scoperta di un’altra cultura. E potremo stupire i nostri amici con qualcosa di diverso dal solito souvenir, magari con una sua speciale storia! Dalla Malesia, una statuina snodabile di legno utilizzata per le rappresentazioni del teatrino tradizionale, il cinema di una volta, mi ricorda il racconto di questi spettacoli attraverso gli occhi del suo costruttore.

4) Possiamo cercare realtà locali che supportano cause sociali o ambientali oppure associazioni di beneficenza.

Accertiamoci inoltre che siano rispettate le condizioni lavorative di chi ha realizzato ciò che abbiamo individuato come souvenir della vacanza.
Viene dalle Canarie la mia maglietta preferita in bambù realizzata in modo ecosostenibile per finanziare il progetto locale Clean Ocean Project. In Norvegia ho trovato regalini in un negozio second-hand i cui proventi andavano in beneficenza.

5) Rispettiamo il lavoro locale pagando un prezzo giusto.

Prodotti con un prezzo troppo basso possono insospettire. Insistere sullo sconto in alcuni contesti e in alcune situazioni può creare difficoltà a chi cerca di mantenersi e di mantenere la propria famiglia con il proprio lavoro.

6) Possiamo verificare i materiali dei souvenir che ci piacciono.

Sono biologici? Sono a basso impatto ambientale? Il cotone è biologico? Il pareo è in tessuto sintetico? Nei nostri articoli potete trovare linee guida per scegliere materiali più sostenibili.

7) Possiamo evitare prodotti di origine animale.

Non acquistiamo ovviamente derivati da fauna e flora locali proibiti dalle normative nazionali e internazionali, a rischio di estinzione. Controlliamo bene che il souvenir non ne contenga in nessuna parte.

8) Possiamo evitare oggetti di plastica usa-e-getta o comunque con un’alta probabilità di finire a breve nei rifiuti.

Preferiamo materiali ecologici oppure riciclati. In alcuni paesi si trovano per esempio piccoli giocattoli (come aeroplanini, macchinine, biciclette) creati dalle lattine. In Brasile ho conosciuto un ragazzo che vendeva creazioni dagli scarti del cocco, trovando un delizioso set di tazzine da caffè dal lui costruito.

In più…possiamo chiacchierare con le persone del posto!

Chi mi conosce sorriderà leggendo quest’ultimo punto, per me importante! Quando entro in qualche negozio o quando mi avvicino a qualche banchetto al mercato, parto con le domandine per sapere qualcosa di più su chi ha fatto ciò che vorrei acquistare. Lo ha disegnato lei? Lo ha cucito lei? Dove compra i tessuti? Dove ha imparato a….(cucire/modellare/intagliare ecc.)? Ovviamente senza importunare! Di solito mi permette di acquistare qualcosa sapendone la storia e mi sembra di portare a casa il frutto dell’impegno di qualcuno e un pezzettino della sua storia.

Se vi interessa approfondire il comportamento del turista responsabile, l’UNWTO ha redatto il Codice Mondiale dell’Etica per il Turismo.

English – The souvenir T-shirt? This year we change! 8 tips for responsible travellers

Finally the journey we were waiting for! We are on vacation in a wonderful site, maybe we have dreamt about it for long. And both in order to remind about the experience and to say our loved ones and friends that we remember about them also on vacation, we can  not resist to the temptation of souvenirs.
If we think about it, do we really need to bring home the umpteenth t-shirt with the name of the site we have visited? Or the billionth dust-attracting trinket at which we will have a look once in a year? Are we sure we will make our loved ones or friend with objects designated to stay in a drawer or to have another end other then being used?
In my family we have a tradition of sending a nice postcard to make them know that even on vacation we think about them! For sure, the temptation of purchasing keepsakes is irresistible… But does it really make us happy to bring home an unethic, mass-produced (so being in who knows how many houses of other tourists), environment-damaging souvenir?
Then, why don’t try the small challenge of the responsabile-souvenir-hunting?
This year in Norway I tried to look for small presents without plastic and if possibile being local, natural and useful. Time for shopping was very limited, but…in the picture you can see the results! I loved it a lot because it made me think about how it is difficult to buy avoiding plastic and with the mentioned desired features. Moreover, it brought me to think more before buying, reflecting on the purchase, in addiction to forcing me to discover less touristic shops, while gelling with locals in their habits.
Would you also like to try? Here there are few suggestions for perfect responsible travellers! If you try, tell us about your experience and send us pictures of your ideas, they will be useful for other travellers.

What can we do?

1) We can support local economy.

We can verify where the object attracting our attention was produced. Are we in the Canaries and it is a t-shirt made in India? Are we in Greece and the dress comes from the Czech Republic? To thank a country that welcomed us, it could be a good idea to support its economy, especially to encourage the preservation of the real cultural heritage and to give local artisans the opportunity to keep their jobs. Moreover, imported products have a greater carbon footprint. And does make any sense to bring a bag with palms from Florida made in China?
Last year, cycling among the salt pans in a small French island, I have purchased the whole sea salt directly from the producers, an useful little present appreciated by the receivers. In Brazil, I have purchased nightdresses traditionally embroidered and hand-made by a local tailor. A colourful hammock masterfully knitted in Venezuela reminds me the marvellous colours of its sea.
Let’s support local activities in general, the ones employing local people, using local raw materials; considering souvenirs but also food, accommodation, tours and guided visits.

2) We can visit local markets and second-hand shops.

They are an exhibition of odours, colours, sounds. They require patience when very crowded, but not all are always full of people at all times. We discover a country also through its market, we learn what is locally produced, what grows on that land, which knowledge has been raised. We can make not so expensive purchases and directly help local workers. In a market in Turkey I have found an efficient organic soap with olive oil and daphne, used in the local tradition according to an ancient receipt. From the markets in Sicily I like to bring as presents almonds, oregano, honey, pistachios, sesame seeds, flours of ancient local wheat.

3) We can buy from local artisans or from associations helping local artisans.

Each country has its own tradition, to better saying: each area of a country. We discover in books, guides or on internet which are the ones of the site where we are on vacation. The research will make our journey a real travel discovering another culture. And we can amaze our friends with something different from the usual souvenir, eventually with a special story! From Malaysia, a jointed wood statuette used for the traditional theatre (the old cinema) reminds me the story of those shows through the eyes of this maker.

4) We can look for local entities supporting social or environmental causes or for charity associations.

We have to be sure also that labour conditions of who made our vacation souvenirs have been respected.
My favourite bamboo t-shirt comes from Canaries, made in a eco-sustainable way to support the local Clean Ocean Project. In Norway I have found keepsakes in a second-hand shop with charity purpose.

5) We respect the local labour paying a fair price.

Products with a price that is too low could make us suspicious. Insisting on a discount in certain contexts and in certain situations can create difficulties to whom is trying to maintain himself/herself and his/her family with his/her job.

6) We can verify the materials of the souvenirs we like.

Are they organic? Have they a low impact on the environment? Is cotton organic? Is the sarong made of a synthetic textile? In our articles you can find guide lines to choose more sustainable materials.

7) We can avoid animal products.

Of course do not buy derived products from the local endangered fauna and flora forbidden from national and international laws. Check well that the souvenir does not contain them in any part.

8) We can avoid single-use plastic objects or any objects with high potential to end shortly into waste.

Prefer ecological or recycled materials. In some countries we can find for example small toys (like planes, cars, bicycles) made by cans. In Brasil I have met a guy selling creations from coconut waste, finding a cute coffee set made by him.

Moreover… we can chat with local people!

Who knows me will smile reading this last point, crucial for me! When I enter any shop or approaching any market stand, I start with little questions to know more about who made what I would like to buy. Have you designed it? Have you sewn it? Where do you buy textiles? Where have you learned to… (sew/shape/carve etc.)? Of course without bothering! It usually allows me to buy something knowing the story about it and it seems to me to bring home the effort of someone else and a piece of his story.

If you would like to deepen the behaviour of the responsible tourist, UNWTO has composed the Global Code for Ethic in Tourism.