Uncategorized – Dress Ecode

The man who wore Dior now wears Zara. Should we be happy?

dressecode — Tue, 07 Apr 2026 09:43:18 +0000

John Galliano returns to the atelier. But the collaboration with the Spanish giant Inditex raises questions that the press release hasn’t yet answered.

In January 2026, in Paris, a women’s dress designed by John Galliano for Dior sold at auction for € 637,500. A few weeks later, the same designer announced he would be working for Zara. Not for a six-piece capsule collection to be photographed on Instagram—for two years, with seasonal collections, drawing on the Spanish brand’s archive.

If you had a strange feeling reading these two sentences one after the other, that’s understandable. It doesn’t necessarily mean it’s wrong. It means it’s complicated. And complicated things deserve to be explored in depth.

In an era where sustainable and slow fashion are gaining ground, it’s legitimate to ask whether this choice represents a step forward or a contradiction to the sustainability values many consumers seek today.

Who is Galliano?

John Galliano is one of the greatest fashion technicians of the twentieth century. Born in Gibraltar, he trained in London at Central Saint Martins, and became creative director of Givenchy in 1995, then of Dior in 1996. For fifteen years, he transformed fashion shows into theatrical events—shows inspired by feudal Japan, Tsarist Russia, and the homeless of Paris—with clothes constructed on a sartorial architecture that many consider unsurpassed. His fashion shows were cinema, theater, and the anthropology of beauty. His bias-cut silk dresses reappear today on red carpets and at auctions.

In 2011, he was fired from Dior after a video showed him drunk in a Parisian bar uttering anti-Semitic remarks. It was a disastrous fall. Three years of silence followed, a detox, a year of study with a rabbi, and finally a public apology in the 2024 documentary High & Low. Professional rehabilitation came in 2014, when Renzo Rosso appointed him creative director of Maison Margiela. In ten years, Margiela’s sales grew by 24%. The Artisanal collection for winter 2024—presented under a Parisian bridge, featuring extreme corsetry and fabrics worked like sculptures—is considered one of the most powerful of the last twenty years.

In 2024, he left Margiela. For two years, silence. Then, on March 17, 2026, Zara.

What exactly does the agreement provide — and what doesn’t it?

The joint statement states that Galliano will work directly with pieces from Zara’s past seasons, deconstructing and reconfiguring them into new expressions and seasonal creations. The process is called “re-authoring“—a word invented for the occasion, which doesn’t exist in the vocabulary of fashion or sustainability.

Here, it’s necessary to be precise. International press reports indicate that Galliano will create new toiles inspired by pieces from the Zara archives, with new shapes, fabrics, colors, and clothing bearing his distinctive signature (WWD). A toile, in tailoring parlance, is the canvas pattern that precedes the creation of the final garment—it’s the creative starting point. Translated: Galliano uses the Zara archive as a point of inspiration and formal starting point, not as physical material to be transformed piece by piece.

How significant this will be will depend on how much of the line actually comes from reworked stock versus newly manufactured products (Grazia International). We don’t know at this time, as the details of the collection are still unknown. Zara has announced that further information will be released later.

This distinction isn’t a technical detail. It’s the difference between an upcycling operation and a creative effort that uses the archive as inspiration—potentially producing entirely new garments. One reduces production volumes. The other doesn’t, or not necessarily.

Why Galliano says it’s sustainable

During Paris Fashion Week, Galliano told Vogue Business that the project is “a very positive thing to do right now, and truly creatively sustainable.”

The expression is interesting precisely because it contains an important qualification: creatively sustainable. It doesn’t say “environmentally sustainable.” It doesn’t say “low-impact.” It says: it’s sustainable as a creative approach—in the sense that it reuses, reinterprets, and doesn’t start from scratch.

It’s a fair distinction, if you read it that way. The problem is that in public discourse, and especially in marketing, “sustainable” has become a word used without specifying what it’s used for. And when Zara—one of the world’s largest fast-fashion producers—says that one of its lines is “sustainable,” the word carries with it all the weight of what isn’t said.

Inditex’s track record: what it says, what it does

Since 2022, Zara has been undergoing a strategic repositioning process to break away from fast fashion. Galliano is not an isolated case—he is the latest in a string of high-profile designers who have collaborated with Zara, including Narciso Rodriguez, Stefano Pilati, Kate Moss, and Steven Meisel.

Inditex is a company that claims not to ignore sustainability. In its 2025 report, it states that 88% of the fibers used are alternatives with a lower environmental impact, with 47% recycled fibers. Between 2020 and 2025, it reduced unit water consumption in the supply chain by 25%.

These numbers exist. But they must be read within a broader context. A Thomson Reuters Foundation investigation has documented how Inditex’s use of air freight to fuel the fast fashion market is excessive and growing—a practice that contributes to the climate crisis and increases pressure on workers, forced to work unsustainable hours for low wages, exactly the opposite of what is disclosed in sustainability reports.

And there’s a structural question that no press release answers: does the Galliano line add to Zara’s existing production, or does it partially replace it? If the answer is “adds,” the company’s net environmental impact increases, not decreases—regardless of the creative sophistication of the project.

Why this news is also a symptom

Beyond Galliano and Zara, this story tells about something larger about the fashion industry right now.

With Dior and Chanel charging €5,000 for a jacket, €4,000 for a bag, and couture reaching €135,000 for a dress, the trend is moving in the opposite direction (The Hollywood Reporter). Galliano isn’t alone—Francesco Risso, former creative director of Marni, has taken the helm of Gu, a brand of the Fast Retailing group; Clare Waight Keller, former creative director of Givenchy, is now creative director of Uniqlo; and Zac Posen has taken over as creative director of Gap (Il Sole 24 Ore).

This phenomenon has at least two interpretations. The first, optimistic: high-end creativity is finally becoming accessible to a wider audience, democratizing an aesthetic language that had remained locked away within the fashion houses for decades. The second, more critical point: big names lend their cultural reputation to brands that need it to compete with Shein and Temu on a terrain—credibility—where low prices are no longer enough.

Ultrafast players like Shein and Temu can always be cheaper and faster. They can’t easily compete on cultural authority. Partnering with a designer whose archive breaks auction records is a way to buy credibility, not just clicks (Grazia International).

A phenomenon that has a name

What’s happening with Galliano and Zara already has a name: luxurywashing. It’s not greenwashing in the classic sense of the term—it’s not about declaring a garment “eco-friendly” when it isn’t. It’s something more subtle and, therefore, more difficult to recognize. It consists of associating a large-scale retail brand with the symbolic, aesthetic, and reputational capital of a designer name—with the effect of making the entire company appear more sophisticated, more responsible, more trustworthy. The single project becomes a patina that, in the collective imagination, extends to the rest of the production.

It’s not a new mechanism. It’s exactly what greenwashing research has been describing for years as the “halo effect”: the main risk lies not in the materials of the capsule collection itself, but in the halo it confers on the brand. By aligning itself with an icon of creativity or sustainability, a company risks obscuring the environmental impact of the millions of other garments it produces every year.

There’s a deeper question that all these collaborations—Galliano with Zara, McCartney with H&M, Posen with Gap, Risso with Gu—highlight without answering. It’s this: can large mass-market retailers truly change from within through individual creative projects? Or are these projects functionally compatible with a production model that—in its basic structure—remains founded on speed, volume, and constant replacement?

It’s not about accusing Zara of lying. It’s about recognizing a systemic mechanism: when a company that produces at industrial volumes introduces a niche project with a focus on reuse, the communicative impact is disproportionate to the actual effect. The project becomes the company’s narrative about itself—and this narrative tends to take up much more space than the project itself.

There’s a paradox at the heart of this story that’s worth naming precisely. Sustainable fashion—the real kind, the kind Dress ECOde has been championing for years—is based on a principle opposed to the logic of seasonal drops: the idea that you buy less, choose better, and keep items longer. The Galliano-Zara collaboration, however, was born within a structure that distributes to thousands of stores worldwide and has built its identity on the idea that there’s always something new to buy. Even if Galliano truly brought a philosophy of transformation to Zara, that philosophy would find itself operating within a system that, by definition, moves in the opposite direction.

This isn’t an accusation. It’s a structural contradiction. And structural contradictions aren’t solved with capsule collections—they’re solved with business models.

What we don’t know yet — and why that’s the point

The first collection will be released in September 2026. Only then will we be able to answer the questions that really matter. How many pieces will be produced? At what price will they be sold? Are the garments physically derived from existing stock or are they produced from scratch from an archive? Will the Galliano line reduce Zara’s overall production or complement it? Will anything change in the working conditions of the supply chains?

None of these elements are in the press release. And this absence is as informative as the press release itself.

The word “re-authoring” is beautiful. It’s evocative. But it’s not a certification. It’s not a supply chain audit. It’s not environmental impact data. It’s just a word. And in sustainable fashion, fine words come cheap.

Three concrete things you can do

First. Wait until September. Not because the collection will necessarily be wrong—but because without seeing the garments, labels, prices, and supply chain communications, you don’t yet have the tools to judge.

Second. Ask yourself questions. If the collection is released in Zara stores near you, look at the labels carefully: what materials are listed? Is there a QR code that links to supply chain information? Is there an indication that the garment comes from existing stock? Transparency is measured in the details, not in campaigns.

Third. Use this news as an opportunity to ask yourself something bigger: when I buy a garment because it carries a big name, am I buying something that truly reduces the impact of fashion—or am I buying the feeling of doing so?

Should we be happy?

We probably don’t know yet. And the honest answer is precisely this: let’s wait for the facts.

The challenge is finding a balance between accessibility and environmental responsibility, but the press release hasn’t yet clarified how this collaboration intends to address these crucial issues. So the question remains: should we be happy to see an iconic designer embrace a brand so tied to rapid production? Perhaps this partnership could be an opportunity to bring innovation and awareness to fast fashion, but only time will tell if this will actually be the case.

Galliano is one of the greatest technical talents in the history of fashion. Working from the archive rather than from a blank sheet of paper is, in principle, a more sober approach than compulsive creation. And bringing couture reasoning—slow, constructive, attentive to form—into a global production system could, in theory, influence its culture from within.

But sustainable fashion has already seen too many “in theory” ideas that have never been translated into practice. We’ve already seen too many big names lent to operations that have essentially changed nothing in terms of volumes, the supply chain, or working conditions. Enthusiasm is legitimate. Reserve is necessary. And curiosity—the true kind, which awaits the facts before judging—is the only tool that protects us from both easy cynicism and equally easy credulity.

We’ll see in September. What we can do now is keep our eyes open. Because when a genius encounters a global production machine, he doesn’t change it—unless the machine truly wants to change.

In the meantime, questions remain open. And keeping them open isn’t a flaw: it’s the only form of honesty possible at this time.

Sources: WWD, Business of Fashion, Marie Claire Australia, Grazia International, ANSA, Il Sole 24 Ore, Inditex Sustainability Report 2025, Thomson Reuters Foundation/Context, Euronews, Hollywood Reporter, Hypebeast.

Influencers and sustainability: conflict of interest or genuine advocacy?

dressecode — Sat, 31 Jan 2026 09:30:01 +0000

A research-based analysis of the sustainable fashion influencer landscape

Green influencers: a paradox?

In November 2023, the U.S. Federal Trade Commission sent warning letters to several influencers and the organizations that paid them, emphasizing the need to clarify financial connections in undeclared product promotions. Fines can reach up to $50,000 for each violation. Yet, an analysis of over 100 million tweets between 2014 and 2021 revealed that the vast majority of commercial content on social media is not adequately disclosed by the influencers who post it (source: VoxEU). Consumers are unable to distinguish commercial from non-commercial content in the absence of transparency labels.

A 2024 European study (European Commission) found that 38% of the 576 influencers examined do not use platform-provided tools such as the “paid partnership” button, but prefer vague terms such as “collaboration,” “partnership,” or “thanks to the brand.” Only 36% were registered as merchants nationwide, and 30% did not provide any business details in their posts.

When it comes to sustainability, this opacity becomes even more problematic. Influencers promoting sustainable fashion find themselves in a paradoxical position: on the one hand, they are called upon to educate and inspire ethical behavior, while on the other, they operate in an economic system that rewards them through commercial partnerships that could compromise their independence.

The role of regulations

Regulators propose using a hashtag like “#ad” to minimize potential confusion, but data shows the need for greater regulatory oversight of undisclosed online advertising.

In France, a law has been in effect since 2023 requiring influencers to explicitly disclose commercial partnerships, prohibiting the promotion of aesthetic medical procedures and nicotine-containing products, and requiring legal representation in the EU for foreign influencers targeting French audiences.

In the United States, the FTC finalized a rule in August 2024 prohibiting the creation or sale of fake reviews, including those generated by AI, and deceptive practices such as purchasing fake followers or views to misrepresent influence on social media.

However, enforcement remains limited.

What the numbers say

The influencer marketing market is expected to reach $32.55 billion in 2025, growing 33.11% annually over the past decade (Influencer Marketing Benchmark Report 2025). According to a 2023 Unilever study, influencers can effectively guide people toward a more sustainable lifestyle (75% of people say they’ve made them more likely to adopt eco-friendly behaviors).

But there’s a price to pay: every minute spent scrolling on TikTok generates 2.63 grams of CO₂e (Greenly 2024). Given its user base (around 1 billion) and high engagement, some estimates suggest that TikTok’s total annual carbon footprint could exceed 50 million tons, as much as Greece’s annual emissions. A paradox is evident.

In the fashion industry, the data tell a complex story. One study highlights the effectiveness of influencer-led campaigns in promoting sustainable behavior, particularly in contexts where low awareness hinders the adoption of circular models in fashion (D.A., Lechuga-Cardozo, J.I., Areiza-Padilla, J.A. et al.). At the same time, according to the BoF-McKinsey State of Fashion 2024 survey, 68% of respondents are dissatisfied with the high volume of sponsored content on social media, and 65% rely less on fashion influencers than a few years ago. This shift signals the need for more authentic and transparent partnerships, as audiences seek trustworthiness over sheer volume.

Micro-influencers: Does authenticity come at a lower price?

An interesting trend emerges from the most recent scientific research. Studies from 2024-2025 show that influencers with a smaller number of followers generate significantly higher engagement rates than macro-influencers. On Instagram, nano-influencers appear to achieve an engagement rate above 2%, micro-influencers around 1.8%, while mega-influencers (over 1 million followers) hover below 1%.

Research published in the World Journal of Advanced Research and Reviews in 2024 shows that nano-influencers achieve significantly better audience engagement than macro-influencers because consumers are more trusting and attentive towards those affiliated with a particular subculture or niche. 44% of brands prefer to collaborate with nano-influencers and 26% with micro-influencers, compared to only 17% for macro-influencers (Influencer Marketing Hub, The State of Influencer Marketing 2024: Benchmark Report).

According to a study published in Sustainability (2024), an influencer’s perceived authenticity is the critical factor in their ability to persuade followers, underscoring the importance of considering the role of credibility when designing effective influencer marketing campaigns aimed at promoting sustainable consumption. Posts featuring personal experiences on sustainable initiatives receive more engagement than branded collaborations.

However, the research also highlights a “greenwashing effect” that leads to negative attitudes when consumers perceive a discrepancy between sustainability claims and the influencer’s actual behavior.

Misleading marketing occurs when influencers, intentionally or through “content tuning,” combine or promote sustainable messages with brands that are not truly ethical.

Consistency is key: trust is undermined when influencers promote sustainability while simultaneously continuing to produce high-volume “hauls” or partner with fast fashion.

Brands should be careful to assess the potential risks of misinformation and miscommunication that can be spread by an influencer.

(Dis)trust in green influencers

A 2025 study published in the International Journal of Management Science identifies how digital greenwashing differs from traditional greenwashing because it operates in an unregulated environment with rapidly changing content, making it difficult to track and verify claims. The study highlights the greater difficulty in identifying greenwashing on platforms focused on aesthetic and emotional content, such as Instagram, especially when micro-influencers promote questionable “green” content. Short-form videos on such platforms appear to prioritize visual appeal over factual evidence, making it more difficult to challenge misleading messages.

Once greenwashing is identified, the research reveals that negative reaction patterns are more intense among younger, digitally literate consumers, who are also more active in sectors with a significant environmental impact, such as food and fashion.

According to research published in Studies in Media and Communication (2025), the trustworthiness and interactivity of green influencers does not significantly impact the intention to purchase sustainable clothing, contrary to previous studies. The researchers explain this finding by the fact that consumers in their 30s and 40s who are tech-savvy and familiar with eco-friendly products may not fully trust the words of green influencers due to the effects of greenwashing.

While influencers can serve as powerful catalysts for raising awareness of eco-friendly products and practices, many are accused of promoting unsustainable products under the guise of environmental sustainability to attract socially conscious consumers. The pursuit of lucrative partnerships can lead influencers to endorse brands that aren’t truly sustainable, using the “green” label as a marketing tool rather than a reflection of core values.

Furthermore, many influencers prioritize aesthetics over impact, focusing on the visual appearance of “eco-friendly” products rather than their life cycle or environmental impact.

Authenticity as a discriminant

A meta-analysis published in PMC (2024) that examined 74 studies with over 12,000 data points identifies “performative authenticity” as a defining characteristic of effective micro-influencers. It’s commonly said that influence arises from:

likes
comments
engagement
how much the audience “adores” the influencer.

This research takes a different approach:

it looks less at engagement
more at the deep mechanisms of trust and attachment
it analyzes influence in a more “cold and objective” way.

Influence arises not only from interaction, but from how the influencer fits into the construction of people’s identities. The most important result is this: people buy because they want to build and communicate their own identities.

In particular:

Followers use micro-influencers as mirrors
They see products (fashion, lifestyle, objects) as a way to express who they are
If the influencer is credible, present, and consistent, the product becomes a means of self-expression

I don’t buy for the influencer. I buy to tell my story, using the influencer as a reference.

According to a 2024 study published in Advances in Consumer Research, the alignment between an influencer’s brand and the eco-friendly products they promote is critical: mismatches can lead to perceptions of opportunism or greenwashing, undermining consumer trust. Influencers’ transparency regarding their endorsements and the sustainability claims of the products they promote is essential to maintaining credibility and encouraging informed consumer decisions.

The real impact: behavioral change or impulse buying?

A 2025 study published in the Journal of Production, Operations Management and Economics raises a crucial question: do influencer campaigns inspire genuine behavioral change or simply promote fleeting impulse purchases? The study finds that influencers can significantly impact consumer decisions by creating aspirational lifestyles that incorporate sustainable products, and that consumers are more likely to purchase eco-friendly products when they perceive them as trendy or desirable, often thanks to influencers’ push. Ultimately, however, influencers often leverage emotional appeals to encourage consumers to make unplanned purchases. Influencer culture often encourages a high-consumption lifestyle, incompatible with true sustainability, even when the products are marketed as “green.”

Conflict of interest or genuine advocacy?

The answer, supported by scientific research, is: it depends. There are influencers genuinely committed to sustainability, but the system creates structural incentives for conflicts of interest.

Studies identify three necessary conditions for genuine advocacy:

Full transparency: Clear declaration of all financial connections with brands, including free products
Behavioral consistency: Alignment between stated values and the influencer’s personal lifestyle
Demonstrable expertise: Solid knowledge of sustainability issues, critical analysis skills, and references to verifiable sources

Modern consumers are adept at spotting greenwashing and severely punish companies (and influencers) that use sustainability as a mere marketing tool.

Deinfluencing: From Criticism of the System to Yet Another Trend

In 2023, the “deinfluencing” phenomenon exploded on TikTok, a movement that initially promised to subvert the culture of overconsumption fostered by traditional influencers. Early videos showed creators opening drawers filled with 50 unused red lipsticks, confessing they didn’t really need them. The hashtag #deinfluencing reached over 3.5 billion views by mid-2024, and according to the 2024 Consumer Buying Habits Report, 36% of consumers have avoided purchases due to negative or critical reviews from influencers—a figure that rises to 56% for Gen Z. At the same time, 77% of Gen Zers have made a purchase influenced by social media in the past six months (Sociallyin 2026).

As often happens on social media, the movement quickly transformed. “Deinfluencing” videos have simply become another form of influence: instead of saying “don’t buy this expensive product,” influencers have started saying “don’t buy this expensive product, buy this cheaper one instead”—often from Amazon or other retailers with questionable sustainability practices. What began as a statement against consumerism has become a way for influencers to call out products they don’t like, simply suggesting others.

The deinfluencing phenomenon demonstrates that consumers, especially younger ones, desire authenticity and transparency. But as long as sustainability information remains tied to commercial logic, the risk of greenwashing—conscious or unconscious—remains structural. True advocacy requires not only expertise and consistency, but also financial independence from the very companies being evaluated.

The future between real and virtual

The future of influencer marketing in sustainable fashion will depend on the ability to develop economic models that reward authenticity and expertise, rather than simply the ability to generate engagement and immediate sales. Those who succeed in living sustainability and transforming it into real value for the community will be crucial.

The emergence of virtual influencers (digital avatars, AI-generated, 3D characters) adds another layer to the landscape. The influencer is no longer a real person, but an intentional construct.

This breaks many assumptions of traditional influencer research, which is based on:

perceived authenticity
personal experience
human experience
coherence between real life and communication

With virtual influencers, all of this is simulated:

authenticity is designed
transparency is a choice, not a consequence
coherence is perfect, but artificial

This raises a key question for sustainable consumption: can we trust an ethical message if the person communicating it has no real responsibility?

The emergence of virtual influencers fully warrants dedicated research because:

It redefines key concepts such as authenticity, trust, and responsibility
It introduces new mechanisms of identification and self-branding
It can have ambivalent effects on sustainable consumption, ranging from education to greenwashing

Studying the impact of their characteristics on sustainable consumption is not only relevant, but necessary to understand the ethical and cultural evolution of influence marketing.

Anne-Laure: How to be (im)perfectly green mothers with a dress ECOde

dressecode — Thu, 19 Jan 2023 10:47:24 +0000

You can be (im)perfectly green mothers with a dress ECOde, as Anne-Laure tells us. This time we’re on home ground: after Anne-Laure, who is part of Dress ECOde, announced the arrival of a little creature to me, I kept repeating: “Why don’t you tell what you’re doing now that you’re a mother?”. Because the commitment must be shared, it can be useful for other mothers or mothers-to-be who try to be greener.
Thus this interview was born. We also interviewed Elisa in the past about how to be mothers committed to sustainability. Now it’s our Anne’s (and her baby’s) turn. It’s also a way to celebrate Sasha’s arrival: welcome baby!

Anne-Laure collaborates with Dress ECOde (find out more about her here), and has opened a podcast on the imperfection that is hidden in each of us when it comes to sustainability, The (Im)Perfect Green Girl.

Hi Anne, I couldn’t wait to do this interview to tell you how a (im)perfect green mom wearing a Dress ECOde is living this moment of life! Thank you because in the end you accepted, I know this is a delicate moment, full of new things, lots to do, little time available.

“Hi Arianna, thank you for the opportunity to tell what I’m experiencing in this beautiful adventure of both pregnancy and postpartum.”

Anne, can you tell us how you tried to be careful about environmental impact while preparing to become a mother?

“During my pregnancy, I tried to do the thing I had somewhat trained myself to do for the previous 2 years: limit purchases. I didn’t buy anything for the baby, except the 5 changes requested by the hospital, which I got second hand.
As for me, I continued to follow a vegetarian diet. The only animal derivative that I ate a couple of times a month, if it happened, was cheese. I’ve also had the great fortune and privilege of being able to work from home, so I’ve severely limited my use of the car for commuting.
Finally, as regards maternity clothing, I only bought 4 new items (1 jeans, 2 leggings and a shirt). I had to get them new for a very simple reason, unfortunately I couldn’t get them second hand: when you’re pregnant, you don’t know what size you are. And if you don’t try, you risk buying things that don’t fit you… I chose things that I can still wear today, after pregnancy!
I took the other things from my closet. I believe that most of us have too big clothes in our closet… Here I have exhumed them with pleasure! Shirts, T-shirts, cotton trousers… Perhaps the luck of the summer season has also helped.”

I like the choice of using items that one already has in one’s closet, things that you’ve found that look great on you. You did very well. The first piece of advice we always give is not to buy new things, but to use what we still have in our wardrobe and which we don’t wear. It seems to me an excellent idea, in addition to the commitment that you have tried to carry forward in various aspects. About the first clothes, where did you decide to get them, what was your choice for the first things to dress little Sasha?

“As I said, the first dresses were the ones requested by the hospital (they asked for 5 bodysuits and 5 pajamas) and I got them all on Vinted, strictly in neutral colors, and with the “new with label” option. I also got some muslins, again on Vinted. Those are my favorite pieces, because we still use them all the time today and Sasha can’t move without a muslin in her hands!
I also received lots of second-hand gifts from friends and my sister: sheets, blankets, onesies… and even soft toys… Tons of soft toys!”

Soft toys are a classic of gifts for children. Who knows how many have arrived and how many more will come! Anne, do you have shops to recommend for purchases?

“Unfortunately I have no shops to recommend. Or rather, we all know the few retailers specializing in items for mothers-to-be, new mothers, babies and children… But they are a bit like the fast fashion chains we know. Almost everything is made in China. I tried to look for shops, even online, for ethical items, but there are really very few of them and above all, let me say it here, they really cost an exaggeration.
I am thinking of maternity or nursing clothing. You find little and what you find of good quality you pay very dearly. I’m thinking of the famous hospital nightdresses… I’ve seen them even for 75-80 euros… Now, you understand that I can’t pay 80 euros for a nightgown that I’ll probably wear a couple of times, and I’ll never wear more in life, if not for a possible second child of course! It doesn’t work like this: a garment can’t cost that much. Same reasoning for the clothes of the little ones. A 0-1 month dress really lasts 1 month. And if it suits you, you can put it on a dozen times at most… And in fact, in my opinion, this is a big problem. There is no middle ground. Or rather, yes there is: the second hand.
Out of curiosity, take a look at Vinted in the children’s categories: there are so many new things with tags… Too many indeed.”

I believe it Anne… also in the other categories, for adults, in accessories, there are so many garments, so many new objects that I can’t hardly believe it is the same for children. Probably in this category the fact that many gifts are received has more influence.

“Here I send a message to those who read and will listen: do not buy things or clothes for a new mother. She will be so overwhelmed that she probably won’t even have time to wash and put on the 39 bodines, socks, and various ties that she will receive as a gift.
Rather give her time. House cleaning, a pan of lasagna and things to freeze, take out the garbage, offer a hairdresser service or a beautician at home,… No bodysuits, no soft toys, no dresses… I ask you with all my heart the heart.”

It’s funny to ask for time to take out the garbage or for other things, but actually Anne I find it a beautiful message. True in all circumstances. Whenever we give a gift we should always think about what the other person would like to receive. Even more so if you are attentive to sustainability, because you risk turning what you give away into waste. We had dedicate an article on the subject for Christmas. I very much agree with you on sending this message. I actually find it precious to meet a difficulty that a mother may have, which is precisely that of lack of time, immersed in a new moment of life so different from before and with little space for herself. Thank you. When looking for clothing for your little girl, is there anything you’ve done that you’re having a hard time finding?

“Yes, a cap. I had a hard time finding a winter cap. I searched on Vinted earlier and didn’t find what I was looking for. Then, I went to the haberdashery in my town but they didn’t have them, their supplier no longer sold the made in Italy ones… I ordered a cap on the ethical fashion website, but after two weeks they called me to tell me they had run out. So, I had to settle for a well-known brand of children’s clothing, with standard materials… It was cold outside and she couldn’t go out without a hat! I got it a little bigger so will use it a little more I hope!”

This research struck me, I remember Anne. We met, we talked about it, we tried to see traditional shops. A cap that is taken for granted to be worn by children, especially towards the winter season. I can understand the frustration. Companies should understand what the logic is. Apart from the dresses, how did it go with the rest (the cot, the cradle, the games, etc.)?

“I must say that I was very lucky for all the rest of the accessories: my sister gave me a cot, a bouncer, a car high chair, a sensory mat, puppets, soft toys and little books… And even a colleague of mine gave me a trio used very little in perfect condition… This was really a beautiful gift. I don’t know if he will listen to this interview but I take the opportunity to thank him again. I have few games for now, many come from cousins. I received some very nice new games, for now all made of wood and I’m very happy with them!”

When I try to explain the beauty of the second-hand circuit, it’s also in this. It’s not just the item itself, but knowing that you’ve recovered it. To receive it as a gift from someone you know. There is joy on both sides, the happiness of having given something that can be useful to the other. Something that you find extra now, that becomes a desired object and with so much value for another person. Among the things you’ve done, which is the one you feel most satisfied with, most proud of yourself?

“For now it’s the fact that I’ve managed to keep the minimalism I’ve always wanted from the beginning. But Christmas is coming and I think we will receive many things! But that’s okay. I think it is right that she grows up with the various ways of doing of the families from which she was born in order to be able to compare them and then choose when she grows up what she considers more coherent, more fair.”

It seems an approach that indicates a lot of flexibility. We often find ourselves saying that this is what we need when we think of taking a path towards sustainability. Having a softer approach can lead people around to take a similar path. What instead have you found and find it difficult to do to be greener?

“There are 2 things I’ve had to compromise on: self-production in the kitchen and cloth diapers. Anyone who claims to be able to cook lunches and dinners with a newborn is lying! It’s not physically possible. I could hardly take a shower. Sometimes I couldn’t even eat. Oh yes of course cook! So I ordered a lot of ready and packaged food. And I still do. However, trying to favor local productions thanks, for example, to buying groups such as L’alveare che dice sì.
For diapers, on the other hand, I started very excited, then I started seeing the (crazy) prices of new cloth diapers on the internet. They drastically reduce the environmental impact, for sure. But they have an economic cost (about 25 euros each) and above all a mental one (I assure you that washing diapers is really the last thing you want to do when it’s finally silent in the house at 2 in the morning… So now I’ve got 4 new and 4 used diapers. I use them all in the same day, when I feel like it. Then I wash them all together and on the other days I use disposables.”

Thank you for your opinion on cloth diapers too. It’s something subjective, I realize. I interviewed my cousin and her partner many years ago. The experience with washable cloths was a completely different thing, she recommended them despite the care that you too say, and she found herself fine in the end. In my opinion it depends on many factors. I thank you for having given this testimony, because someone who may find it difficult recognizes him/herself in your words and does not blame him/herself because perhaps he/she is unable to make this choice. Thanks also for tips on food: if you have difficulty, you can find some solution. That of buying groups remains valid in general. Continuing on this sort of analysis of things done/not done, I ask you: what could you have done better and instead out of laziness you gave up or said “I can’t do it”?

“There are so many things that I had to take steps back on. But I’ll tell you that I’m glad I did it so. Because I would have lost my physical and mental health, which is the first thing especially in such an intense period, physically, emotionally and mentally. They are to be protected, always and in any case. A dear friend of mine once told me: ‘As adults, we have so many principles that we try to follow closely. Then the children arrive… And everything changes!’. Now, everything maybe not, but I had to review my priorities, that’s for sure. I am slowly learning to live this new reality.”

Physical and mental health are definitely a priority, as you say, even more so now, where you find yourself taking care of the life of another person who practically depends entirely on you. In this situation and in general, they are really two fundamental aspects for the life of the human being. What is the aspect in which you commit yourself most of all, the one where you try to be more sustainable, more attentive to green aspects?

“As for me, I’d tell you the food, which continues to be vegetarian. I have to say that I gave myself a piece of cheese, when the fridge and the stomach are empty and sometimes. Instead, for her, I undertake to limit purchases to what is strictly necessary and almost always buy second-hand things.”

You have already given a lot in this interview, but I ask you again: is there any advice you would like to give to mothers who want to be greener?

“It’s difficult to give advice, it was understood from this interview that there is nothing perfect in what I do right now, in this moment and above all I don’t aim for perfection. If I had to make a suggestion, it would be to buy the bare necessities before the birth, without getting caught up in anxiety, without listening too much to friends and relatives. Also buy second hand, don’t be afraid to buy second hand or even borrow. Ah, yes here is some advice, that perhaps I would have liked to receive among other things. Look for mom groups in your area. Counselors, local groups and associations. For one reason only, to network. I’m very honest, the loneliness you experience and feel during a pregnancy, especially during a first pregnancy, is really tough. Meeting other mothers even once in a while can really be of great support and by the way maybe you will know who can lend you that thing you need instead of buying it new.”

Thanks Anne. I chose to talk about this topic, about being a mom and also imperfectly green, and even with a Dress ECOde, with you precisely because I knew you’d adopt a very sincere, honest and down-to-earth approach. Because it’s very easy to tell stories, make videos, show how simple it is to be green mums. It’s very fashionable now and in recent years, maybe sending the message: ‘Yes, we can all do it!’. Of course, it is a path that is within everyone’s reach. Beautiful, but it is necessary to explain that it requires commitment, so that we don’t blame ourselves if we encounter difficulties. It is normal to have difficulties. And every time I find myself listening to them, and personally facing them, I reflect on an observation I often hear made: ‘Companies should enable us to do this, do that, eat this way, move this way, be able to buy …’. It is a concept that I repeat very often of multi-level responsibilities. We are all responsible, not just companies, governments. Everyone has to do their part. I realize listening to you in this interview, collecting the testimonies and very often in first person, to understand how much we actually still feel like rare birds. How much you dream of entering a shop or having easier access to solutions that are truly more sustainable! We’ll get there, the future is this, the future is here, it’s a matter of still having a little patience and commitment. Sharing like yours is welcome, even on a theme that is that of loneliness. It seems like a fabulous and splendid world, there is the joy of a new life. There is the emotion of having a son, a daughter next to you. However, there is also an aspect that shouldn’t be underestimated, which is that of the sensation, perhaps not always up, a little down, which may be due to this feeling of being alone. It can be crossed in this as in other phases of life and let us break down this taboo. Mental health, together with physical health, which we have said is a priority, is one of the issues increasingly linked to sustainability. I thank you for this too, as for all your sincerity, here in the interview and in the collaborative work you carry out within Dress ECOde.

Thanks Arianna. I really enjoyed doing this interview. All the best and hope to see you very soon. Ciao everyone!”

Ciao Anne, ciao little Sasha!

Amazon launches the sustainable brand Amazon Aware

dressecode — Thu, 07 Apr 2022 09:50:11 +0000

The online commerce giant unveiled Amazon Aware, a new sustainable brand of affordable, carbon neutral fashion, home and beauty. “Customers want to shop in a more aware way; we want to make it easier”, they explain on the site. “Amazon Aware is an essential line for everyday wear, home, beauty and more, all with third-party certifications featured in our Climate Pledge Friendly program”.

Why sustainable? The products are certified as “zero emissions”. Climate Partner, a company compliant with the GHG (Greenhouse Gas) protocol, calculates the carbon footprint considering the emissions over the life cycle of the product.

In support of its commitment to sustainability, to ward off suspicions of greenwashing, there are 32 certifications that Amazon brings out:

Blusign
Carbon Free
Carbon Neutral
Carbon Trust
Carbon Neutral by SCSCertified Animal Welfare Approved
Climate neutral by ClimatePartner
Compact by Design
Cradle to Cradle Certified
ECOLOGO
ENERGY STAR
EPEAT
EWG Verified
Fairtrade International
Fair for Life
The Forest Stewardship Council
GOTS
Global Recycled Standard
Green Seal
Higg Index Materials
Made in Green by Oeko-Tex
MADE SAFE
Organic Content Standard 100
Organic Content Standard Blended Rainforest Alliance’s
Recycled Claim Standard 100
Recycled Claim Standard Blended
Reducing CO2
Regenerative Organic Certified
Responsible Wool Standard
U.S. EPA Safer Choice
USDA Organic

The offer

You can select men’s/women’s clothing, body and hair products, household products, bedroom and bathroom items, basic items, organic or recycled material products such as polyester jacket or kitchen paper rolls.

The fashion section includes dresses, outerwear, loungewear and everyday basics in sizes XXS to 7XL. Prices vary according to size, for example the recycled polyester jacket costs between 32 and 55 euros, the high-necked top 15-24 euros, the multi-pocket shirt 27-37 euros, the jeans 39-43 euros, the sweatshirt 28-37 euros. At the moment there are 22 articles of clothing for women and 12 for men.

All items are under 55 euros, most are priced between 20 and 40 euros.

True commitment or greenwashing?

This is the question that may arise, because still there are:

the question of the treatment of its workers
sales (and consumption) in large numbers
and the kind of whole sea of products sold on the platform. Amazon Aware is a drop.

We asked, through our Instagram channel, what readers think, sensitive to sustainability issues. Read what those who work for more responsible consumption answered.

Benedetta, co-founder of the sustainable e-commerce WHATaECO: “I would never buy an Amazon Aware product. Maybe I sound radical, but that’s the same reason I wouldn’t eat a vegan sandwich at Burger King or buy solid shampoo at the grocery store. There are multinationals that have grown rich for years (and continue to do so), at the expense of workers, the environment and healthy market growth. If for many I know that these actions represent ‘a step forward’, a ‘way to send the message to more people’, for me it is only greenwashing, which tries to collect consensus and money even from that part of consumers who would never buy from Amazon or Burger King. There are many realities that are really born on the values of ethics and sustainability. Personally, I strongly believe in supporting these and not falling into the green trap of the giants of consumerism”.

Manuela, Officina Sartoriale Creativa: “I think they are trying to grab that slice of the market that hasn’t bought anything from Amazon yet and was not willing to do so. I will not buy from Amazon Aware. There are many realities that base their entire vision and mission for this purpose, I believe that Amazon should not be part of it. By doing so, it seems that Amazon also clears this of being able to make sustainable by anyone, with the money by paying the best of professionals who make ad hoc campaigns. It penalizes the little ones, who really invest all their time, their work to give true value and put their face to it. Amazon no, it only takes the money and this becomes the umpteenth, forgive me the Frenchism, taking the piss”.

Valeria, Valeria Minussi Art: “I have some doubts that it is truly sustainable, only for the fact that it is reachable in every corner of the world it is not anymore. It is difficult to think of a sustainable multinational. They can put all the labels in the world, but I don’t think it is in the way I mean, that is, almost zero kilometers or be for a few and at a fair price. You don’t sell me a home item for € 1 or a shirt for € 10! Not to mention the materials and processes, which most likely will not be as ecological as they say. In my work, I recycle materials to create art and it’s not always easy. I am trying to be as sustainable as possible, but I continue to struggle with the possible and the feasible to keep my philosophy on recycling. I imagine that for a large multinational the problem does not arise as something to be supported”.

Debora, Atelier Biologico: “Of the latest Amazon launch I think the same as all the other brands that pretend to be sustainable but then in the meantime… What a joy to dress all the same! Yes, because when the last small brand closes, this will be the end we will end up. And how does this garment come to me? By ship, plane or truck? Who makes it? Are we sure that they are treated with excellent economic and health conditions? Without forgetting that for such low prices something doesn’t add up. I wonder if they only produce the items ordered. For me it leaves the time it finds, but the problem is that the rest of the world will believe it. Little by little we will all depend on Amazon, there is also Amazon Fresh which replaces the supermarkets”.

By doing a search online, the media articles generally tell the news of the launch of Amazon Aware in a positive way, welcoming the introduction of the new brand, with no reference to greenwashing.

We launched a survey in Instagram stories to understand what the audience thinks: “Will you buy Aware on Amazon?”. 92% said they won’t. The 32 certifications do not seem to ensure exemption from the suspicion of greenwashing, especially among people who are more attentive to sustainable and responsible consumption.

Will it work instead with those new to the world of sustainability or approaching for the first time? Amazon tests the news before deciding whether to expand a business area. It will probably not hesitate to change course if this new brand does not show positive results and development potential, while it will continue if it catches on.

Photo: Amazon Aware

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Second-hand fashion: it’s boom time in the world and the trend is increasing. Days numbered for fast fashion?

dressecode — Fri, 29 Jan 2021 10:29:36 +0000

The year that has just ended has shown an incredible fervor for second-hand clothing, fueled by a series of factors that we tell you about in this article:

COVID-19
Digitization of the offer
Economic uncertainty
Interest in sustainability
Influence of social media
Search for the unique piece

30-40 billion dollars, the value of the second-hand market

A report by Boston Consulting Group created on behalf of Vestiaire Collective, the French online sales platform for luxury second-hand clothes, estimates the current value of the global second-hand market between 30 and 40 billion dollars, equal to 2% of the entire fashion and luxury market. The growth forecast is between 10% and 15% per year by 2024.

The youngest generation is showing that they want to help solve fashion waste in the long run

According to another study from 10 billion in 2009, the expected growth is considerable. A phenomenon that goes beyond a temporary fashion trend. About 40% of Generation Z respondents planned to buy used, 30% of Millennials and 20% of Generation X. A figure that inspires optimism: the younger generation is showing that they want to help solve fashion waste in the long term (1).

The trend of second-hand purchases comes from the United States, where the second-hand market developed already in the hippie years (70s), giving everyone the opportunity to sell and buy clothing no longer used, making room in the wardrobe for one part and enriching it at an affordable price on the other.

And in Europe? At DressEcode, we wondered about this trend in 3 countries (United Kingdom, France and Italy) to understand how much consumption habits are culturally pervading. Is it one of the changes in consumer paradigms in the post-Covid era?

United Kingdom

Second-hand, pre-owned or pre-loved shops are part of the clothing market with a stable number of stores over the last 10 years (about 4,000 between 2008 and 2018) (2).

Sales of used items on eBay have saved the equivalent of 900 double-decker buses of clothing from being dispersed, thrown away or incinerated

An eBay study reveals:

The lockdown period prompted 12 million Brits to buy used clothes in 2020
66 million second-hand pieces have found a new home
A sales rate of 2 second-hand fashion items every 3 seconds, between January and July 2020
Sales growth of 30% between March and June 2020 and of 1,211% compared to the same period in 2018
The sales have made it possible to avoid the equivalent of 900 double-decker buses of clothes from being dispersed, thrown away or incinerated.

UK sales of second-hand fashion even surpassed US sales on eBay. Emma Grant, head of the second-hand fashion department of a well-known online sales site, said that in the UK the quarantine has accelerated the transition to a more conscious and sustainable society (3).

France

The second-hand phenomenon (d’occasion) was born with the antiques markets, called marchés aux puces. Here from the 2000s onwards there are more and more vintage fashion items. As in friperies shops (from fripe, old rag).
If in 2009 25% of the French bought second-hand, in 2018 48% bought used (4). In 2019, 39% bought at least one dress or accessory used on mobile applications

The retail giants are about to create second-hand departments

Hélène Janicaud, head of the fashion sector at the analysis firm Kantar, says that during the confinement 40% of French people lightened their wardrobe. In the second quarter of 2020, the number of articles published on Vinted app grew by 17% (Le Monde).

A market, that of second-hand fashion, estimated at 1 billion euros, growing by 10% annually according to the Institut français de la mode.

An attractive figure also for the giants of retail, who are preparing to develop collaborative projects with clothing brands to create second-hand departments. This is the case of Auchan for example, which has already opened used departments in 5 of its supermarkets, or of Zalando, which will extend the presence of the second-hand department to France, after Germany and Spain.

The success of the Vinted platform in France brings the French market to the top of European sales of used clothing:

21 million users of the platform worldwide
8 million French users, with an average daily consultation frequency of 1.5 million visitors, thus placing the Lithuanian app in the top 10 of e-commerce, just behind eBay (5).

The Lithuanian giant’s competitors in France are many. In our opinion there are two main ones:

Once Again, which aims to interface between sellers and buyers, with a guarantee of quality and the possibility of buying clothes in bandle regardless of the seller;
Vestiaire Collective, the French platform created in 2009, which defines itself as the world’s first market place for the sale of luxury fashion items and which benefited from an investment of 40 million euros in June 2019 by Condé Nast to dedicate to its development international.

Italy

Precise data on the consumption of second-hand fashion in Italy are not available, but we do have an overview of second-hand purchases in general made in our country. In the last 5 years, the second-hand sector has grown by 33%, reaching 24 billion euros in 2019, equal to 1.3% of the Italian GDP. The “home and personal products” sector, which includes clothing, is worth a total of 2.8 billion euros. The trend, already underway before the pandemic, was mainly driven by online (in 2018 it generated value of 10.5 billion euros) (6).

Between March and June 2020, Italy recorded 128% more orders for second-hand clothes (on Vestiaire Collective)

Second-hand fashion has literally exploded during 2020, thanks mainly to 3 levers:

Economic: in addition to limiting access to physical stores, the economic crisis accompanying the ongoing health crisis has favored the use of second-hand purchases with items whose price is more accessible, in line with the decrease in purchasing power during the lock down period.
Environmental: the sale and purchase of second hand are in 4th place among the most widespread sustainable behaviors among Italians (49%), immediately after separate collection waste (95%), the purchase of LED bulbs (77%) ) and zero km products (56%) (6).
Social: the growing phenomenon of fashion bloggers, who propose the latest outfits, increases the desire of users/followers to frequently renew their wardrobe. The preference for the second hand increases. A trend encouraged by the same fashion bloggers who, according to Nss G-Club, after showing new clothes, resell them on the second-hand market.

With 41% of European fashion production, Italy is the first country in Europe for the production of textiles, clothing and accessories (7). Is this also why, until a few years ago, second-hand fashion was not such a widespread consumer habit?

From a data processing by Vestiaire Collective for Il Sole 24 Ore, between March and June 2020 Italy recorded an increase in second-hand clothing deposits of 137%, and 128% of orders, with a particular boom in 3 categories: menswear (+ 190%), women’s ready-to-wear (+ 149%) and women’s accessories (+ 108%).

In the study, the data indicate that:

Those who buy are on average between 30 and 50 years old
The seller is between 35 and 45 years old
The biggest buyers of second-hand fashion are women between the ages of 25 and 34 (75%)

The consolidation of this trend as a real new consumer habit is confirmed by the development of online sales proposals, but not only. In addition to the well-known Depop, Armadio Verde and the newcomer to Italy Vinted, Italy has many physical outlets for second-hand clothes and accessories (you can find them in our map of sustainable clothing stores).

Despite the perceptions that were still found a few years ago, Italy is also following the global trend of preference for second-hand fashion items.
If the main reason for this fervor still remains the economic one, the new generations, mainly Gen. Z, are the driving force for this cultural change, proudly displaying their second-hand purchases in the name of sustainability.

Fast fashion is experiencing its final years at the top of the industry sales ranking

An important figure in our opinion is that of the forecast of the trend between now and 2028 of the value of the second-hand market that will surpass fast fashion. Reading several reports (BCG, thredUP and some national observers), fast fashion is experiencing its final years at the top of the industry sales ranking.

A beautiful opening for a different future of the fashion world, which we hope will benefit first and foremost the workers of the countries exploited by the big fashion buyers in the production phases, but also to protect the environment: the biggest global challenge in the next 30 years.

Anne-Laure Petton

Photos: Dress Ecode; Priscilla du Preez; Onur Bahçıvancılar; Thomas Vogel; Jaclyn Moy; Dress Ecode.

(1) Report thredUP 2020

(2) Statista.com

(3) Fashionunited.uk

(4) Report 2019 di Centre de recherche pour l’étude et l’observation des conditions de vie

(5) Report of Médiamétrie

(6) 6th edition of Osservatorio Second Hand Economy, BVA Doxa.

(7) Carlo Capasa, president of Camera della moda italiana in an open letter to government, published on La Repubblica, April 11 2020.

In order to stop the use of furs and exotic skins in fashion companies, PETA has adopted a new tactic

dressecode — Tue, 18 Jun 2019 04:21:08 +0000

Italiano/English below

Da 25 anni PETA (People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals), l’organizzazione impegnata nella difesa dei diritti degli animali, porta avanti campagne contro l’utilizzo delle pellicce, protestando con cartelli al di fuori dei negozi delle aziende che le vendono o saltando sulle passerelle durante le sfilate di moda. Ultimamente ha trovato un nuovo modo per poter far sentire la sua voce: acquisire titoli azionari su scala ridotta.

Nel 2015 PETA ha acquisito una singola azione di Hermès del valore di $360. Nel 2016 ha annunciato di aver acquisito una quota unica delle azioni di LVMH Moët Hennessy (Louis Vuitton, Dior, Givenchy, Loewe, Fendi, Marc Jacobs e altri marchi), per un valore di $334.

Ha continuato a effettuare analoghi acquisti di singole azioni in Prada, Canada Goose e circa 80 altre aziende di moda e non come SeaWorld, McDonald’s e Kraft Foods.

Questa tattica consente ai rappresentanti di PETA di accedere alle riunioni annuali degli azionisti delle società. “Dà a PETA un nuovo forum in cui presentare le ricerche che facciamo ai dirigenti aziendali, ai loro azionisti e al pubblico”, afferma Ashley Byrne, specialista campagne per PETA.

In maggio 2017 per esempio, un rappresentante di PETA ha affrontato l’amministratore delegato di Hermès durante l’assemblea generale annuale della società, facendo pressione al CEO Axel Dumas sul fatto che Hermès pianificasse di smettere di usare pelli esotiche, comprese quelle degli struzzi.

In aprile 2017, in occasione dell’assemblea azionaria di LVMH, i rappresentanti di PETA si sono visti rifiutare l’accesso alla riunione. PETA ha quindi minacciato il colosso aziendale di agire in giudizio dopo essere stato tenuto fuori dalla riunione. Nel frattempo, LVMH si è rifiutata di cambiare idea sull’uso di pelli di animali e pellicce, ma PETA continua la battaglia: “Dalle manifestazioni in strada ai discorsi in sala riunioni, PETA spingerà LVMH a smettere di vendere qualsiasi borsa, cinturino o scarpa fatta con la pelle di un rettile”, ha dichiarato il presidente PETA Ingrid Newkirk.

Da poche settimane Prada ha annunciato che dal prossimo anno non utilizzerà più pellicce. Il vicepresidente senior di PETA, Dan Mathews, ha dichiarato: “Per anni, PETA ha spinto Prada a rifiutare la crudeltà dall’interno – come azionista agli incontri annuali della compagnia. Questo segue oltre un decennio di proteste da parte di PETA e dei nostri affiliati – tra cui intervenire sulle passerelle e organizzare dimostrazioni di strada – invitando il marchio a rinunciare alle pelli. La sua decisione di bandire la pelliccia è un trionfo per animali e attivisti. Ora esortiamo il marchio a seguire le orme compassionevoli di Chanel rimuovendo anche pelli esotiche ottenute crudelmente – tra cui coccodrillo, lucertola e pelli di serpente – dalle collezioni future”.

Oltre ai tradizionali modi adottati dall’organizzazione da sempre, funzionerà questa nuova tattica? Cosa ne pensate?

Per saperne di più sulle pelli esotiche: https://www.peta.org/issues/animals-used-for-clothing/exotic-skins-animals/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=4&v=VeklO6be3_o&has_verified=1

Attenzione, immagini forti nel video!

English – In order to stop the use of furs and exotic skins in fashion companies, PETA has adopted a new tactic

For 25 years, PETA (People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals), the organisation engaged in defending the rights of the animals, has been campaigning against the use of fur, protesting with signs outside the shops of the companies that sell them or crashing on the runaway of fashion shows. Lately they have found a new way to make their voice heard: to acquire stocks on a small scale.

In 2015, PETA acquired a single Hermès share worth $360. In 2016 they announced that they had acquired a single share in LVMH Moët Hennessy (Louis Vuitton, Dior, Givenchy, Loewe, Fendi, Marc Jacobs and other brands), for a value of $334.

They have continued to make similar purchases of individual shares in Prada, Canada Goose and about 80 other fashion companies and not fashion ones like SeaWorld, McDonald’s and Kraft Foods. This tactic allows PETA representatives to access company shareholders’ annual meetings. “It gives PETA a new forum in which to present the research we’ve done to company executives, their shareholders and the public” says Ashley Byrne, campaign specialist for PETA.

In May 2017, for example, a PETA representative confronted Hermès’ CEO during the company’s annual general meeting, putting pressure on CEO Axel Dumas to make Hermès plan to stop using exotic skins, including ostrich skins.

In April 2017, PETA representatives were refused access at the LVMH shareholders’ meeting. PETA then threatened the corporate giant to sue after being kept out of the meeting. Meanwhile, LVMH refused to change its mind about the use of animal and fur skins, but PETA continues the battle: “From demonstrating on the street to speaking up in the boardroom, PETA will push LVMH to stop selling any bag, watchband, or shoe made from a reptile’s skin”, said PETA president Ingrid Newkirk.

Prada has announced a few weeks ago that it will no longer use furs next year. PETA senior vice president Dan Mathews said: “For years, PETA has pushed Prada to reject cruelty from the inside – as a shareholder at the company’s annual meetings. This follows over a decade of protests by PETA and our affiliates – including crashing catwalks and organizing street demonstrations – calling on the label to shed its skins. Its decision to ban fur is a triumph for animals and activists. We now urge the brand to follow in Chanel‘s compassionate footsteps by also removing cruelly obtained exotic skins – including crocodile, lizard, and snake skins – from future collections”.

Besides the traditional ways the organization has always adopted, will this new tactic work? What do you think?

To know more about exotic skins: https://www.peta.org/issues/animals-used-for-clothing/exotic-skins-animals/