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Hi Manuela, we’ve been chasing each other for years!

“I don’t know how long we’ve been saying this, yes, it’s a pleasure to collaborate together. We really looked forward to each other, but above all we like to talk about fashion and sustainability.”

Let’s start with a chat on the podcast! I’m intrigued by how, as a marketing researcher, you went on to launch a digital platform to promote a sustainable lifestyle and where you can find clothes, footwear and accessories that are in line with this style. What made you approach a more responsible fashion coming from marketing research?

“The path actually lasted a long time over the years, I got closer to sustainable fashion. Both as a researcher and therefore with great experience in going into the merits, I did a doctorate (you know well what it means to go into the depth of the why and how, asking yourself certain questions about production, materials, design). Both as a consumer, because in the end we are all consumers. Specifically, I have been doing marketing research since 2008 and focus on the valorization of brands and the value chain, therefore the entire journey of a product, from creation to its disposal and consumption in the fashion industry. At the same time I specialized in the perception that we consumers have about brands, above all in the luxury sector, but also in fashion, in fact, my first experience was in fast fashion. I look a lot at the emotional component, what it brings to people”

Fast Fashion… Tell us something more, Manuela.

“At the beginning the winning models were those related to the Inditex group, then to Zara. The Inditex group was born precisely because of the speed with which they proposed collection after collection. They had and have excellent integrated logistics, so it means when things are made, produced and shipped to the customer it’s a really quick process. Generally everything happens in their headquarters in Coruña, Spain, but the production takes place in many places, in China, India and Morocco and then they bring all the things to their headquarters. What happen? When I studied these things for my specialist thesis, so many years ago, 2008-2009, I went to their headquarters in Coruña to interview a manager. She told me how these garments, coming from different countries, were also of different quality and workmanship. The best of all are in Spain, Portugal and Morocco, because the key to everything was that in these countries the production was much more controlled and they are much closer to them, they are European countries. The quality of the fabrics was much higher. On the one hand I said ‘Wow, how nice, super logistics, an excellent system?’, on the other it left me with some doubts. I started thinking:

‘But… so… they themselves say that there are products A and products B, production A and production B. So, where are the quality, provenance, reliability of production if we produce in China, in Turkey, in India?’

Much less in those years did we talk about the environment, people, ethics. It was really all about production, producing as much as possible.

This was my origin, the more I investigated, the more I asked myself further questions. This touched my mind as a consumer. Every time I made a purchase I started to see the label, if I went to Zara because in any case I very often visited their stores all over the world and in that period in Spain, I went around, checking the origin, composition. Many times they didn’t look at me properly, just as they still don’t look at me now!”

I know about this! It then becomes an automatic but necessary gesture. Like when you read the ingredients in food products. But what changed then, Manuela, in your way of purchasing clothing once you became aware of all these things you are telling us? And who knows how many others you’ve seen and learned about.

“Certainly if I purchase from large fashion chains, I try to exclude Made in China and India, precisely because I don’t have that feeling of knowledge that perhaps you can have about other types of production that are more similar to ours. In Italy you know maybe in certain places where it is produced better, there is more communication, more integrated. I increasingly prefer quality. When I see prices that are too low, I discard because unfortunately I know what’s behind them. At the same time, I prefer soft, natural fabrics. I eliminated polyesters, both for myself and for the production of The Casual Twinkle. I try to buy Made in Italy also online. There are online sites where they explain that it is Made in Italy, I try to take that. Obviously we then know that Made in Italy can be the last phase of the process or the entire process. So I try to follow reliable brands, which communicate with us consumers about quality, 360° production.”

The attention to quality, the fabrics, the origin: Manuela, and the style?

“It always intertwines with the attention I pay to dressing with my style, which is very simple and elegant, very refined. I don’t like having clothes cuts that don’t give anything to the body, just as I don’t like wearing a stiff fabric. I love feeling good about myself, in harmony with my body, but at the same time I think that a woman’s body also deserves sensuality, softness. Each of us has a different body that needs to be enhanced. Unfortunately, many times low-cost garments or stiff fabrics are not made to highlight the shape of the body. In my opinion, responsible fashion is also a fashion that seeks out garments that are not only engaging for their aesthetic beauty, but also for a certain type of style and cut. Another thing, let’s say that there are dynamics that make me increasingly sensitive to the use of positive environmental, social and ethical practices. Once upon a time it wasn’t considered. Now I realize that I look better if I wear something that is honestly made well, not only well made for me, but also made well for those who work. I don’t feel good if I know that a garment was made by harming a worker, as unfortunately we fashion experts and everyone else knows well by now.”

You talked about various aspects that made you think and reflect. Manuela, in your experience in traditional fashion, what is the aspect that struck you most and that made you say enough with this type of fashion?

“Arianna, certainly since I started dressing my daughter it has been a bit of a key that has relieved me, because you know as long as you think about yourself, you have mechanisms that you have now put in place, when you have to dress someone else, like a mother with her children… I started trying to use the same concept that I use for myself, but unfortunately what I found were very low quality garments, practices behind which you can know because the cost is really low. You know, while for us we have all the wardrobes full, so we can create, compose, do, for the children I necessarily had to buy new. I must say that when I looked into the world of children, I honestly saw that they are a bit the first fruit of a less than conscious fashion, in the sense that apart from the price there is actually a cultural concept: children grow, so you don’t have to dress them with expensive clothes.

No! I say definitely no, because it’s not because they grow up, they deserve to be dressed in clothes that don’t have cuts, in polyesters… Many times maybe you get a dress that is apparently beautiful, but then you put it on and say ‘But no, my daughter can’t live with this.’ I recently saw a little dress in a polyester market with lemons, it’s hot right? There is a whole culture behind which I certainly care a lot about. There is the concept ‘I don’t spend on my child and then I buy lots of things, 3 X 2 or on sale’. These things that already cost €5, I get them for €3. In the end it is a significant expense because you fill your wardrobe with low-cost things for no big reason. Why I do this to my daughter? When one has to manage children, she tries to do the best. If you try to do well for yourself, for the children who are your extension you try to do even better. I absolutely didn’t feel like dressing them in traditional fashion that would harm both them and those who produce it, the environment, because these children’s clothes destroy the ecosystem.”

So that’s why you decided to create The Casual Twinkle? And what did you choose to propose on the platform?

“Yes, yes, absolutely. I care very much, as I said just now, about the education of my children, in the true sense of a respectful and positive culture towards what is part of them, therefore what we mothers, we women, put on our skin, so also on of them, even of what is around them. Unfortunately and fortunately, clothes are the first essence, it’s not just appearance. We Italians live in a wonderful country, made up of both natural wonders and an incredible fashion culture. It’s somehow a shame to dress them in big brands that don’t belong to us, that don’t care about the environment and lack style.

Surely my greatest desire that triggered this is precisely that children, my children but also future generations, can grow up with values, that are sensitive to the world and to people. The items of clothing, it seems banal or maybe one doesn’t think about it, but they also do this. I see it after years, already with my eldest daughter, she is however used to this culture, she begins to understand, I explain to her. Especially wearing beautiful things, she asks me to wear them again. Maybe they don’t understand until they are 4 or 5 years old, then at 6-7 years old, they too begin to form a culture, a habit of how we raised them. Therefore, in my online boutique I have chosen to give main space to children’s fashion, to create Total looks composed not only of garments but also of footwear and accessories that are casual and elegant.

Why elegant casual? Apart from that it’s a bit my style, but then I tried to think about children, in any case they must be dressed comfortably, they must be able to move, because they are constantly on the move. Style for me is something that is part of the essence of dressing. Well, I really wanted there to be harmony with nature. The harmony of The Casual Twinkle embraces solid principles that are environmental, social and ethical. As a marketing expert, I wanted the entire process, from design to use of the garment, to be traceable and controlled.”

What does it mean? That the production chain, the one I talked about before about Zara, which went to India, then returned to La Coruña in Spain, then came to us in Italy or returned to India or Turkey, I wanted this to be as short as possible . There is me who offers the products, there is the consumer who uses them and behind me there is only the brand that produces them. There is only one case, that of a Danish brand that produces in Bolivia, but one of the two founders is Bolivian, it is like the extension of this brand. Furthermore, it is essential for me that there is research behind everything: behind every brand I propose there is a huge selection of unique exclusive garments, made with natural products and for example for women they are all made in Italy and upcycling, therefore avoiding further waste. This is the thread that is always found in The Casual Twinkle: use of natural materials, support for people, support for the environment, non-waste, starting from design.”

What do we find on the platform for children?

“For children, we have polo shirts, shirts, sweatshirts that are hand embroidered in Treviso, therefore nearby. I saw how they do these hand embroideries and you immediately fall in love because they put passion, care, precision into it and they don’t have any type of tool other than the hand that embroiders and it’s something incredible. Then there are also the dresses, the trousers, the rompers. All of these have cashmere, linen or cotton and all of the highest quality, we fall within product protection schemes, they are all certified. I don’t have certifications but my suppliers have them precisely to provide continuity and protect both the consumer and those who work, who are really doing a job that is also useful for the environment.”

And for the little ones?

“There are bodysuits, dungarees, rompers, hand-embroidered in velvet, they are truly wonderful. To complete the look there are shoes: ankle boots, sneakers, sandals, everything you can think of in children’s shoes. These are handcrafted in Portugal by a Danish brand that is a pioneer of sustainability. Since 2005 they have been looking for the best solutions for children’s feet, because one thinks that a child’s foot, or rather perhaps one doesn’t think about it, is really very delicate and needs the right support in every phase of growth. These shoes are all made of leather. Some have also vegetable tanned, without chemical agents and all with non-toxic chemical substances and components. Then for the winter season we have this collection that I was talking about before coming from Bolivia, which are sweaters of alpaca garments. The peculiarity is that they are first and foremost handmade in Bolivia, but above all they are 100% in alpaca. In fact, I don’t know if anyone ever looks, me, you because you told me, at the labels: we rarely find 100% wool, let alone alpaca. Why alpaca? It is extremely soft and has properties that are thermoregulating and is a kind of fiber. These little alpaca hairs are all made together and really create a quality, a softness that is similar to cashmere. This brand, for example, supports the sustainable development of farmers and their families, including the education of their children”.

In addition to children’s clothing, you said that there are also women’s clothing, even for mothers.

“Lingerie, active wear, swimsuits, t-shirts. You know that t-shirt that all of us, or at least I, have always wanted to be soft, that fits well, that highlights the shape of the body, that doesn’t hang as long as a t-shirt, in the sense that we use it with the skirt, the we use it under the jacket, we can use it with jeans, with boots and it highlights the body. All the other pieces highlight the sensuality, the shapes of the body. The Casual Twinkle offers craftsmanship, style, details, comfort. Precisely because of my desire to have collections that are versatile, they can be used on multiple occasions, composing even with a few pieces that last over time, for example the alpaca sweaters are indestructible, they are incredible, but just as the polo shirts are, you can do as many washes as you want so that the cotton remains intact. We do good for our children and for us and for those who produce them.”

Manuela, I want to know something: Why this name?

“It is a name full of metaphors and is a very sweet essence. Casual is the lifestyle, casual but elegant. It is also a way of approaching life: when random events happen in our life, where maybe we are happy, maybe we are burdened, but in this casual way we find a kind of light-heartedness, a joy of living. Twinkle, on the other hand,  is the spark of these moments, it is a glow that illuminates us, the sparkling of the stars and the glitter of the sun’s rays. Do you know when the sun reflects its rays, or when the moon reflects its being on the sea? I’m from Trieste, so the twinkle of the rays of the sun and the moon on the sea  It fascinated me. Furthermore, Twinkle is also reminiscent of the Twinkle children’s lullaby, Twinkle, twinkle little star,  which every mother knows, it is a sweetness for children. It is a style sensitive to our life, where we are the ones who give meaning to our choices with our will, we are the ones who capture that spark that is within us and this is very important in the world of fashion. As fashion has somehow fallen, pushed us to buy and buy more and more, we can say stop with an elegant casual way of dressing, we decide to shine and re-emerge even in the world of fashion. It aims to be a reminder of nature full of charm, but also elegance and comfort, precisely a refined, refined style. It’s not just a brand, it’s also something more, it’s an approach to a human culture. You know, I also have a blog where I talk about life experiences as a mother, thoughts, travels, from a conscious perspective. I propose both my collections and other well-known brands. It’s just being casual and happy.”

What aspects of sustainability characterize the garments you propose, Manuela?

“In one place there are a few, very selected brands. For women it’s all upcycling, high quality regenerated fabrics. The products are zero kilometer, no new resources are used to produce the fabrics, because we use what already exists, following the concept of upcycling and reducing waste from the fashion industry. Our boutique embraces circular design, that is, both in the creative phase and in the planning, the resources and all the materials used and who makes these products are taken into consideration. From a perspective in harmony with nature. For example, in the production of alpaca garments, ladybugs are used as a natural pesticide, I fell in love with this concept. We give a lot of space to artisanal techniques such as embroidery, or all the brands make their products by hand. This is surprising to me, also because the design is innovative, while the techniques come from various textile traditions that have gradually improved over the years.”

Is there an item for children that you recommend most? And if so, why?

“This is a great question! As you may have understood, I love alpaca garments. The shirts are warm, they are thermoregulating, they are soft. With an alpaca sweater you can easily go through the entire season, but not just winter, even the first cold times of autumn or spring, this year’s crazy spring. Even for small children. I didn’t think so, but I have testers who are my children, I also tried it on the little one and used it a lot, they are tight and children need to feel pampered. They need color, to be wrapped. I also recommend polo shirts, embroidered dresses, rompers. Sorry, that’s a really difficult question! I care a lot about Made in Italy, because they are artisanal, because I have seen this company, I often go to visit them. They are truly incredible, they have a care, a passion in choosing fabrics. Together, we create truly stunning collections. And then the shoes: ankle boots for boys/girls have soft leather, they are thermoregulating, truly all made to support the foot.”

You mentioned your blog before, which I have been following for some time with beautiful images that talk about places, experiences in nature. Do you think this connection with the natural world also influenced your choice to move away from traditional fashion, and prefer to create something that had to do with brands more linked to sustainability?

“With this question you hit the nail on the head! I was born in Trieste, a city overlooking the sea, which however is a green plateau, that is, there is an immense hill made up of greenery and woods. So on the one hand I have always seen the sunset over the sea, on the other hand in 5 minutes I am in the middle of fragrant woods. I am very sporty, I have always practiced outdoor activities, by the sea, swimming, or running in the woods, I bring the dog, the children. My parents educated me and my brother in the mountains, in the sense that we went to the mountains a lot in all seasons. Several times I lived in very nice cities in Long Beach, California, near Los Angeles, in Madrid, in Vienna, Oxford, between study and work, I traveled around a bit. Each time the call of my natural world has always brought me home. This for me was decisive in creating my path, and it is a sensitivity that I have developed and continue to develop and live. There was a bit of a spark, regarding Twinkle, that made the pieces of The Casual Twinkle build”.

Can you tell us about any special places you’ve seen that made you think or inspire you about the impact we have on nature?

Yes of course, Arianna. Trieste is certainly a constant source of inspiration, the sky takes on incredible colours. I think precisely because of the light air, which somehow exists between the sea, the mountains, the woods. Definitely the mountains, a place that gives me peace, serenity, in the Dolomites, I usually go there. It seems to me that everything is in harmony with itself and with the things around it. Just the other weekend we were in the mountains, I saw a sunset over the mountains from the balcony of this apartment where we were staying, full of geraniums and flowers. And it had recently rained, the last sun was coming out, coloring the meadows in front bright green. There was also a stream nearby, you can hear the sound of flowing water. Scenarios like these that take you 100% mind body and make me think that there is a sense of completeness, very often that can be achieved even with just a few things, almost as if you didn’t need anything else. Especially in summer, when I walk to the top there is a majesty of nature that fascinates me and which seems like a gift that nature gives to us. At the same time, however, we know that nature is very fragile. Just look at how the weather and the morphology of the territory are changing. I was in the mountains, we were near the Marmolada, with the naked eye you see, I remember how it once was. You see the backward progress it’s making, how much it’s melting, that piece has even collapsed. I also tried to explain this to my daughter for a while, to remember this thing. I think nature is a great inspiration, but it also makes me reflect on the fact that we definitely need to protect it.”

As a single mom with a spirit of adventure, how have you had these experiences with your daughter? Where did you go? Struggle and beauty of traveling with her?

“Yes, Arianna, you know once a friend of mine asked me what is the most difficult thing about being a single mother and almost without thinking I told her ‘sharing the experiences I lived with my daughter with someone else’, but in this case, obviously, with the father. Well, this has always been a difficulty for me, because I am still very expansive in certain things, in adventures, in beautiful events. I like to talk and discuss. We were in the mountains and I walked among the peaks in all weathers, always paying attention to the conditions. I have become very good and know all the weather conditions all the time. I know how long I’ll be there, I calculate the times, the rhythms, the extra clothing to change in case we get wet. They are the little adventures of when you are alone, because you have to be prepared for every eventuality. Then also with her backpack on her shoulder, when she started walking. I never gave up. Even what I liked, maybe I taught her a little, but in any case I actually made myself happy too.”

Where have you been?

“We went to the Basque Country, went to visit a friend, then we spent a few days alone. I took her to Lapland, to the Arctic. This was perhaps the journey that made me understand how much I can ultimately count on myself, on my strengths. These are perhaps demanding trips where you sleep little, you have to organize. But all this opened my heart and my mind. You travel with a little creature that you have to raise and defend, protect, teach. You are alone with a child, you are not dealing with an adult, you also have to find a way for yourself that is fun, that is not a chore. I have to tell you the truth, in the end all these efforts, especially the physical effort at certain moments, has always been rewarded with complicity, extreme serenity. We told each other every kind of story imaginable. We laughed like crazy, sometimes when we were angry we didn’t speak to each other. Now there is also the 2 year old brother, we are a kind of total harmony without limits, it’s very pleasant. As a mother, you always hope to raise serene, sensitive children, in my case also with a positive culture because I realize that it’s a bit of a mental switch. I have it and would love to teach it. I hope that with these adventures, a little crazy, I realize, a little outside the box, the children can both have a respectful way towards themselves, in achieving their objectives, their goals, and also live in harmony with the world around them.”

How beautiful these trips are, Manuela, especially the one in Lapland! I had seen the photos and who knows how exciting it must have been to take this trip with your little girl too! Is there anything you want to say, any advice you want to give to mothers for choosing clothes for their boys and girls?

“Yes, thank you for this question. I recommend taking a few items, perhaps slightly growing and which are versatile. What does this mean? To think about the season, not the event, to think about the shirt for the winter, the warm shoe or the one for the rain. Not to think about that party, that wedding, because those are unique cases. We must get children’s clothes that are long-lasting. So, in my opinion, spend a little more on things that have nice cuts, a nice style, that not only look beautiful but actually are. If the sustainable issue is involved, they cannot cost little, because unfortunately if they cost little it automatically means that they are not sustainable. Spend more on a single item rather than buying many items that look good but fall shapelessly and are worth little. Maybe be a little wary of big chains, in the sense that many cities are full of big chains. You search for the particular brand and unfortunately these are found online, not because I am online, but there is much more choice very often. And to trust the brand, in the sense of seeing the product page and what it says. Because very often many say they are sustainable, but they are not”.

In your opinion, what should we look at on the page to understand if they are more sustainable?

“Look a little at the description of the brand and also at the history, if there is a sustainability page, that they are not things just to say, but that they are truly heartfelt, that there are production photos. Or even that it is well described on the product page, a nice size guide, a nice presentation of the product, but really beautiful, that tells you the story of that product. Very often it says made ‘in EU’, European Union. Where? How? We as consumers always have to ask ourselves questions, even if we are not technicians, but every garment has a story, every brand has it. Also, I think dressing kids a few sizes up doesn’t hurt. Indeed, they grow and the products are expensive, especially if, as we were saying, they are made well. Without any problems, a boy or a girl who dresses 116 can take 128. Let’s say that from the age of half onwards, children have constant growth. A few centimeters more, unless it has to be a tight shirt on the neck, a crew neck if you take it a little wider it’s not that it’s too big for you, if the garments are made well. Don’t think that by buying items that cost more you will end up spending more, because you have essential things. Don’t fill your closets: just as we shouldn’t fill ours, so we shouldn’t fill our children’s closets. And pay close attention to shoes. They are fundamental. Always measure the foot and calculate an extra 1 cm. Above all, I remember once a physiatrist told me ‘You know, in the early years children have really delicate feet and need support’. Here it was one of those ‘casual twinkles’, as I call them. They actually made me compose the piece, it’s really advice I give about shoes. They are essential for children.

Shop with love. Not only towards yourself, that the child is beautiful, but also for the clothes you buy, that they do good because the planet is so beautiful, but it is also so fragile.”

Thank you Manuela for telling us about the clothes, especially for children, for giving the advice and also for making us imagine your adventures with your little girl and now also with your little boy! Next time we hope to meet in nature for another episode. Who knows, maybe something else together. Thank you for telling us about your experience and your project.

“Thank you Arianna, thanks to you it was a pleasure to have this chat, it is certainly an excellent idea to create an episode in the midst of nature. And we hope to meet soon because we talk to each other a lot in various ways, but we have never managed to see each other in person. Congratulations again for the excellent work you do and the passion you put into it. See you soon!”

The Casual Twinkle > Website; Instagram; Facebook.

 Puoi ascoltare qui l’articolo: Audio-à-porter – Maeko

Incontro Cinzia (Vismara) negli uffici di Maeko a Milano, sede della vulcanica attività di questa azienda tessile tutta italiana. Resto subito travolta dall’energia e dall’entusiasmo che lei e il marito Mauro (Vismara) pongono in questo progetto in cui credono molto, a costo di andare contro tendenza nell’attuale contesto industriale.

Maeko produce dal 1998 tessuti naturali di alta qualità a filiera controllata, impegnandosi  nello sviluppo di un’economia sostenibile rispettosa dell’ambiente e dell’individuo. Etro, Vivienne Westwood, Ferragamo sono alcuni dei marchi che utilizzano i tessuti di Maeko per le loro creazioni. Canapa, ortica, soia, crabyon, bambù, lino, cotone biologico, seta tousac, filato di latte, lana di yak, lane di pecora, alpaca e capra italiane: gli occhi scintillano tra rotoli e campioni di questi meravigliosi tessuti, impossibile resistere alla tentazione di toccare con mano la morbidezza di gomitoli e stoppini (sottili bande di fibra tessile). La canapa qui è la regina, a lei dedicano una festa speciale ogni anno, da lei tutto è iniziato quando ha colpito con la sua bellezza Mauro e lo ha spinto verso un nuovo percorso professionale (era osteopata), affascinato dai tessuti indossati dalle persone provenienti dall’Oriente che incontrava. È con la canapa che comincia l’avventura sostenibile di Maeko, dalla ricerca dei filati orientali, perché nei pochi paesi dell’est europeo in cui sono disponibili sono più grossolani. Abbiamo infatti perso, soprattutto in Italia, macchinari, conoscenze e abilità che una volta ci facevano eccellere nella produzione di filati di canapa, oltre che nella coltivazione della canapa stessa a uso tessile, mi spiega Cinzia.

Non si fermano alla produzione di tessuti e qualche anno fa acquistano una piccola e ben avviata tintoria industriale a Bregnano (Como), per fornire anche tutti i servizi tintoriali necessari per completare i processi utili alla produzione di tessuti finiti.

Dal 1998 la tessitura rientra nelle attività di Maeko, con l’affitto di telai, e da allora non si sono mai fermati. “Era un momento tristissimo per il settore, abbiamo rimesso i telai a funzionare per la tessitura della canapa e da quasi vent’anni lavorano per Maeko”, dice Cinzia.

Nel 2014 parte il progetto ambizioso RIFILOC, volto alla produzione del filato di canapa: insieme a due soci, l’agronomo Alessandro Mondello e l’agricoltore Andrea Cocca, Maeko aspira con passione e determinazione a far ripartire la storica produzione di canapa per uso tessile in Italia. A San Mauro Pascoli è infatti avviata la coltivazione biologica di circa 40 ettari di questa pianta e in parte di ortica.

In un instancabile vortice di energie e con un enorme entusiasmo nei progetti in cui credono fortemente, quest’anno compiono un passo ulteriore: hanno acquistato un’azienda di filatura a Biella. L’idea è di impegnarsi in una filiera produttiva integrata con cura, trasparente, avendo tutto in casa (al momento acquistano fibre da filare anche dall’esterno), dalla coltivazione alla fibra al filato al tessuto alla tintura, “per garantire un’agricoltura consapevole, una tessitura cosciente e capace in un prodotto completamente Made in Italy”, racconta Cinzia. “Ma l’acquisto aveva anche l’obiettivo di salvare l’attività portata avanti con maestria da una famiglia che da due generazioni vi lavora come se fosse un’oreficeria”, consentendo così al personale e al figlio del proprietario di continuare a lavorare senza interrompere la tradizione familiare.

Dalla cardatura delle lane nascono nastri, nastri fiammati, nastri con bottoni. Dalla ripettinatura, effettuata in un laboratorio esterno, sono creati prodotti come agugliati e stoppini, ma anche alcuni sottoprodotti tra cui imbottiti, isolanti e concime biologico, “ottenuto dal gruppo Giovani ingegneri torinesi, sciogliendo gli scarti inutilizzabili e sporchi della lana in una gigantesca pentola a pressione”, descrive Cinzia. “Non si butta via niente!”, esclamo. “Non c’è niente da buttare!”, mi corregge. Dalla filatura pettinata delle altre fibre nascono filati vegetali, animali e artificiali (per esempio dal nylon o dal poliestere riciclato usato nella mischia intima). Ogni tessuto riporta la precisa composizione, indicando anche percentuali minime (3-4%) di poliestere riciclato in ottica di totale trasparenza.

“Non c’era niente, anni fa su questo tavolo su cui stiamo parlando non avevamo nulla, solo dei pezzetti di tessuto e oggi possiamo acquistare un’azienda di filatura, salvandola. In tutte le cose che facciamo ci crediamo, a costo di rimanere in mutande. Abbiamo lo stesso coraggio e la stessa determinazione del primo giorno. E anche la stessa incoscienza!“, mi spiega con orgoglio Cinzia, guardando intorno ciò che hanno creato. Quando le chiedo se ci sono altre novità in vista, mi risponde a ragione: “Più di così?”, ma la guardo e capisco che non si fermano mai. Sono infatti alla ricerca di soci, disposti a imparare riguardo tutto il processo, dall’inizio alla fine, entrando a far parte come un tassello che completa il mosaico intero, “dove tutti gli attori hanno uguale importanza e fanno parte dello stesso progetto”, precisa Cinzia. In questo momento cercano anche allevatori di animali da lana, in particolare in Sardegna, da aggiungere a quelli con cui già lavorano in diverse zone d’Italia (Val d’Aosta, Lombardia, Toscana, Marche e Puglia), che dovranno garantire precisi criteri di tosatura, di cernita della lana e anche di alimentazione degli animali.

La sua straordinaria energia mi ha contagiata, non solo attraverso il racconto dell’impegno di Maeko e l’affascinante descrizione dei filati, ma anche coinvolgendomi in un interessante confronto su altri temi: con lei parli di tutto, di episodi di vita, di cibo, di viaggi. Accanto a noi Giovanna, amica e compagna di lavoro di Cinzia da tanto tempo, lavora senza sosta preparando con cura i campioni da spedire. Grazie per l’accoglienza e seguiremo i vostri progetti!

Link: https://www.maekotessuti.com

English – A whole Italian story: We met Maeko to find out more on sustainable fabrics and their ambitious project

I met Cinzia (Vismara) in the offices of Maeko in Milan, headquarter of the volcanic activity of this whole Italian textile company. I am immediately overwhelmed by the energy and enthusiasm that she and her husband Mauro (Vismara) place in this project in which they believe a lot, at the cost of going against the trend in the current industrial context.

Maeko has been producing high quality natural fabrics with a controlled supply chain since 1998, engaging in the development of a sustainable economy that respects the environment and the individual. Etro, Vivienne Westwood, Ferragamo are some of the brands that use Maeko fabrics for their creations. Hemp, nettle, soy, crabyon, bamboo, linen, organic cotton, tousac silk, milk yarn, yak, Italian sheep, alpaca and goat wool: the eyes sparkle between rolls and samples of these wonderful fabrics, it’s impossible to resist the temptation to touch the softness of wool balls and roving (thin bands of textile fiber). The hemp here is the queen, they dedicate a special party to her every year, from her it all started when she struck Mauro with her beauty and pushed him towards a new professional path (he was an osteopath), fascinated by the fabrics worn by people coming from the East he met. It is with hemp that the sustainable adventure of Maeko begins, from the search for oriental yarns, because in the few Eastern European countries in which they are available they are rougher. In fact we have lost, especially in Italy, machinery, knowledge and skills that once made us excel in the production of hemp yarns, as well as in the cultivation of hemp itself for textile use, Cinzia explains.

They did not stop at the production of fabrics and a few years ago they bought a small and well-established industrial dye-works in Bregnano (Como), in order to provide also all the dyeing services necessary to complete the processes useful for the production of finished fabrics.

Since 1998, weaving is part of Maeko’s activities, with the rental of looms, and since then they have never stopped. “It was a very sad moment for the sector, we put the looms back to work for weaving hemp and for almost twenty years they have been working for Maeko,” says Cinzia.

In 2014, the ambitious project RIFILOC, aimed at the production of hemp yarn, starts: together with two partners, the agronomist Alessandro Mondello and the farmer Andrea Cocca, Maeko aspires with passion and determination to restart the historical production of hemp for textile use in Italy. In San Mauro Pascoli the biological cultivation of about 40 hectares of this plant and partly of nettle has started.

In a tireless whirlwind of energies and with enormous enthusiasm in the projects in which they strongly believe, this year they took a further step: they bought a spinning company in Biella. The idea is to engage in a carefully integrated, transparent production chain, having everything internally (at the moment they buy fibers to be spun also from the outside), from cultivation to fiber to yarn to fabric to dyeing, “To ensure an aware agriculture, and a conscious and capable weaving in a completely Made in Italy product”, says Cinzia. “But the purchase also had the objective of saving the activity carried out with mastery by a family, that for two generations has been working there as if it were a goldsmith”, thus allowing the owner’s personnel and his son to continue working without interrupting the family tradition.

Ribbons, slub ribbons and ribbons with buttons are born from wool carding. From recombing, carried out in an external laboratory, products such as needle-punched felt and wool roving are created, but also some by-products including padded and insulating materials and also biological fertilizer, “Obtained by the group Giovani ingegneri torinesi (Young Turin engineers), by dissolving unusable and dirty wool waste in a giant pressure cooker”, describes Cinzia. “Nothing is thrown away!”, I exclaim. “There’s nothing to throw away!”, she corrects me. From the combed spinning of the other fibres, vegetable, animal and artificial (for example from nylon or recycled polyester used in intimate mixes) yarns are born. Each fabric has the precise composition, also indicating minimum percentages (3-4%) of recycled polyester with a view to total transparency.

“There was nothing, years ago on this table we are talking beside, we had nothing, only bits of fabric and today we can buy a spinning company, rescuing it. In all the things we do we believe in it, at the cost of losing our shirt. We have the same courage and the same determination as the first day. And also the same thoughtlessness!“, Cinzia proudly explains, looking around at what they have created. When I ask her if there are other news arriving, she rightly replies: “More than this?”, but I look at her and I understand that they never stop. They are in fact looking for partners, willing to learn about the whole process, from the beginning to the end, joining as a piece that completes the entire mosaic, “Where all the actors have equal importance and are part of the same project”, specifies Cinzia. At this moment they are also looking for breeders of wool animals, particularly in Sardinia, to be added to those with whom they already work in different areas of Italy (Val d’Aosta, Lombardy, Tuscany, Marche and Puglia), which will have to guarantee precise criteria of shearing, sorting of wool and also feeding of animals. Her extraordinary energy has infected me, not only through the story of Maeko’s commitment and the fascinating description of the yarns, but also by involving me in an interesting comparison on other topics: with her you talk about everything, about life episodes, about food , of travel. Alongside us, Giovanna, Cinzia’s friend and colleague for a long time, is tirelessly working preparing carefully the samples to be sent. Thanks for the welcome and we will follow your projects!

Link: https://www.maekotessuti.com

(Pictures: from Maeko’s Instagram profile)

Puoi ascoltare qui l’articolo: Audio-à-porter – Alpaca, Ladina e Simona 2

-Seconda puntata- Proseguiamo con l’intervista a Ladina, di Alpacas la Foppa, nella splendida cornice delle montagne della Valmalenco. Se avete perso la prima parte, dove abbiamo raccontato delle peculiarità degli alpaca, potete leggerla qui: Prima Puntata

Desideriamo mostrarvi quali prodotti in lana di alpaca propongono: in un video (che trovate più sotto) Simona e Ladina ci spiegano quanto e perché queste creazioni siano preziose e pregiate. Desideriamo anche affrontare con l’allevatrice Ladina il tema dell’impatto della tosatura sugli animali. Qui gli alpaca vivono serenamente e accuditi con grande amore da lei e la figlia Simona. 

Vieniamo alla domanda spinosa sulla tosatura: quanto è invasivo il procedimento per tosare la lana? Quanto causa sofferenza?

È abbastanza invasivo, non si può dire che sia gradevole per l’animale. Perché per garantire la loro incolumità dobbiamo legarli, in modo che non si facciano male mentre tosiamo. Proprio perché come dicevamo sono animali preda, essere legati è l’ultima cosa che desiderano, perché pensano: ‘Se arriva un predatore, come faccio a scappare?’. La tosatura invece non causa dolore. Piano piano con attenzione e molto accuratamente (anche per non sprecare neanche un pochino di lana) con una macchinetta, così come noi tagliamo i capelli, tosiamo gli alpaca in primavera per non far sentire loro il caldo estivo.

Con l’amore che avete per questi animali, immagino con quale premura e accortezza passiate la macchinetta per non far male in alcun modo! Dopo la tosatura cosa accade?

Spediamo la lana in Francia, perché in Italia non troviamo un produttore che si occupi, per piccole quantità di ogni tipo di tinta separatamente, di: lavarla, asciugarla, cardarla e filarla in modo ottimale così da ottenere soffici gomitoli. Lasciamo la lana del suo colore originale, tingiamo solo quella di Rodrigo naturalmente (con un prodotto di derivazione organica). Quindi i gomitoli marroni, neri e bianchi hanno proprio la tonalità del pelo degli alpaca da cui è presa la lana. Non viene usata nessuna sostanza chimica per frantumare le fibre e rendere il filato morbido, è soffice per natura.

Cosa troviamo qui ad Alpacas la Foppa?

Le fattorie didattiche. Ne organizziamo di due tipi: per le scuole, con spiegazione della lana dalla tosa alla tintura naturale (con i fiori) e facciamo il feltro da portare in classe; d’estate per le famiglie, secondo un calendario stabilito (2 giorni alla settimana con l’uscita con gli alpaca, 2 giorni invece il laboratorio su un tema scelto ogni anno, come la lana, il formaggio, la tintura, i semi delle piante). L’argomento principale è la natura e utilizziamo sempre la lana nei lavoretti con i bimbi.

La vendita di prodotti. In negozio o contattandoci via mail. Dalla nostra lana nascono articoli, che facciamo realizzare, come:

• piumoni, in cotone naturale e imbottiti con la lana di alpaca (Nda: sono sofficissimi, abbastanza sottili ma caldi!). 
• cappelli, scaladacolli, guanti, sciarpe, fasce e calze fatti a maglia.
• creazioni all’uncinetto, come i piccoli alpaca; dagli scarti della produzione a maglia, sono riprodotti ognuno con la propria lana. Per esempio, Fernando con la sua bella e lucente lana nera.
• solette per scarpe, in feltro di lana d’alpaca e cuoio.
• babbucce, cappellini e copertine per i bimbi.

E soprattutto i filati! I gomitoli dalla lana dei nostri ‘ragazzi’.

‘La fibra d’alpaca tiene 7 volte più caldo rispetto alla comune lana di pecora, questo perché ogni singola fibra al suo interno è vuota, quindi fa da isolante termico. Inoltre, è elastica, più morbida ma anche più resistente della lana merinos e cashmere. La fibra d’alpaca non contiene lanolina, quindi non provoca quella fastidiosa sensazione di prurito e non crea reazioni allergiche’ (dal sito alpacaslafoppa.com).

Ecco qualche foto dei prodotti. Più sotto continuiamo il racconto su cos’altro sia possibile trovare qui.

Workshop di tintura e filatura.  Ladina ha la passione della tintura naturale, fa molte ricerche e sperimenta. Iperico, calendula, ortica e salvia per ottenere bellissime tinte. Inoltre con pazienza mostra come filare la lana. Da lei qualche tempo fa ho seguito questo corso, interessante e divertente! 

Se andate a trovare Simona e Ladina, raccontate di conoscere Dress Ecode!

English – The alpacas, their wool and the natural products: interview to the breeders Ladina and Simona (2nd episode)

We continue the interview with Ladina, from Alpacas la Foppa, in the marvellous setting of the Valmalenco mountains. If you have missed the first part, where we told about the peculiarities of the alpacas, you can read it here: First Episode

We would like to show you which alpaca wool products they offer: in a video (which you can find above) Simona and Ladina explain to us how much and why these creations are precious and refined. We also would like to discuss the impact of shearing on animals with the breeder Ladina. Here the alpacas live serenely and cared for with great love by her and her daughter Simona.

We come to the thorny question on shearing: how invasive is the process for shearing wool? How much does it produce suffering?

It is quite invasive, it cannot be said to be pleasant to the animal. Because to guarantee their safety we must tie them up, so that they do not hurt themselves while we shear. Precisely because, as we said, they are prey animals, being tied up is the last thing they want, because they think: “If a predator arrives, how can I escape?”. Shearing does not cause pain. Slowly, accurately and very carefully (also so as not to waste even a little bit of wool) with an electric razor just as we cut our hair, we shear the alpacas in spring so as not to make them feel the summer heat.

With the love you have for these animals, I imagine with what care and attention you use the electric razor so as not to hurt in any way! What happens after shearing?

We ship wool in France, because in Italy we do not find a manufacturer that takes care of small quantities of each type of dye separately: washing, drying, carding and spinning it optimally so as to obtain soft balls. We keep the wool of its original color, we dye only that of Rodrigo naturally (with a product of organic derivation). So the brown, black and white wool balls have just the shade of the alpaca hair from which the wool is taken. No chemical substance is used to crush the fibres and make the yarn soft, it is soft by nature.

What do we find here in Alpacas la Foppa?

Educational farms. We organize two types: for schools, with explanation of the wool from the shear to the natural dye (with flowers) and we make the felt to be brought to class; in summer for families, according to a set timetable (2 days a week with the alpaca walk, 2 days instead the workshop on a theme chosen each year, such as wool, cheese, dying, plant seeds ). The main topic is nature and we always use wool in our chores with children.

Product sales. In the store or by contacting us via email. We offer articles from our wool, which we make them handmade crafted, such as:

• duvets, in natural cotton and stuffed with alpaca wool (Nda: they are very soft, quite thin but so warm!).
• hats, neck-warmers, gloves, scarves, headbands and knitted stockings.
• crochet creations, such as small alpacas; from the scraps of knitted production, each one is reproduced with its own wool. For example, Fernando with his beautiful and shiny black wool.
• shoe insoles, in alpaca wool and leather felt.
• slippers, hats and little covers for children.

And above all the yarns! The balls of wool from our ‘kids’.

‘The alpaca fiber holds 7 times warmer than the common sheep’s wool, this because every single fiber inside is empty, so it acts as a thermal insulator. Moreover, it is elastic, softer but also more resistant than merino wool and cashmere. The alpaca fiber does not contain lanolin, therefore it does not cause that annoying sensation of itching and does not create allergic reactions’ (from the site alpacaslafoppa.com).

Dyeing and spinning workshop. Ladina has a passion for natural dyeing, she does a lot of research and experiments. St. John’s wort, calendula, nettle and sage to obtain beautiful colours. She also patiently shows how to spin the wool. With her some time ago I followed this course, interesting and fun!

If you go to visit Simona and Ladina, tell them you know Dress Ecode!

Puoi ascoltare qui l’articolo: Audio-à-porter – Alpaca, Ladina e Simona 1

Circondata dalle montagne della Valmalenco con le punte innevate, accerchiata dalla natura e dai fiori della padrona di casa, siedo al sole nel giardino di Ladina, allevatrice di alpaca, davanti alla veranda del suo laboratorio. Sono di nuovo in questo posto speciale, dopo aver frequentato qualche anno fa un corso di filatura e tintura naturale della lana, per scrivere di Ladina, sua figlia Simona e dei loro “ragazzi”. Così sono affettuosamente nominati infatti i veri padroni di casa di Alpacas la Foppa, quando non vengono chiamati uno a uno per nome: di fianco all’abitazione e al negozio, in una stalla e due ampi recinti, vivono 12 alpaca, accanto a capre e pecore. Qui regna un amore smisurato per queste simpatiche creature. Tutto ruota intorno al loro benessere. Al punto che se chiamate e insistete per vederli in orari o giornate o periodi non previsti, Ladina vi dirà fermamente che non è possibile se comporta un disagio, uno sforzo o un affaticamento per i suoi “ragazzi”. “Prima il benessere degli animali, poi i capricci”, mi spiega con una risolutezza che nasconde amorevole tenerezza per gli alpaca.

Nella prima puntata su questo posto incantevole, vi raccontiamo dei protagonisti, gli alpaca. Non perdete la seconda puntata, in cui parleremo della lana che proviene da questi animali, affrontando lo spinoso tema “è una tortura o non è una tortura per l’animale?”. Vi racconteremo anche dei gomitoli e delle creazioni che si possono acquistare da Ladina e Simona, le ascolteremo parlarne in un video!

Partiamo da dove la lana ha origine: gli animali.

Come avete iniziato ad allevare alpaca? 

Abbiamo visto un servizio di Melaverde su questi animali, ci siamo incuriositi e abbiamo iniziato a cercare informazioni su internet riguardo gli allevamenti. Siamo andate a visitarne, per saperne di più. Quando li abbiamo visti da subito ce ne siamo innamorati! Abbiamo cominciato nel 2010 con tre alpaca: Kelita, Rodrigo e Fernando. 

Vi eravate documentate su questi splendidi animali?

Sì, ho letto un libro, ho cercato su internet, mi sono abbonata alla rivista Lamas. Fonti per lo più straniere (tedesche o americane) perché in Italia si trova poco. Mi ha aiutato molto un libro di un’autrice americana che ha sviluppato un metodo di approccio agli alpaca molto valido, che rispetta tanto il loro mondo, il loro modo di pensare, la comprensione dei loro movimenti. Sono aspetti importanti da capire prima di agire e avere a che fare con loro.

Capire gli alpaca è cruciale, perché non parliamo di semplici animali domestici, hanno caratteri ben particolari!

Sì, esatto. Sono tanto curiosi e allo stesso tempo riservati. È proprio questa riservatezza che va compresa! Bisogna capire che non amano il contatto fisico.

Quindi non possiamo venire qui e fiondarci ad accarezzarli rincorrendoli, giusto?

Proprio no… Hanno questa esigenza di non voler sempre essere toccati, accarezzati, portati in giro. Sono animali molto, molto intelligenti. Hanno il loro modo di esprimersi e capiscono ciò che vuoi da loro. Se entro nel recinto a mani vuote, mi guardano, mi studiano: “Viene solo a vedere, viene a trovarci”. Se entro con la cavezza (un accessorio che con la longhina serve per condurre gli animali), capiscono che è ora di fare un giro e si comportano in modo molto diverso. 

Si fanno capire anche con i versi, a proposito come si chiama il verso dell’alpaca?

Humming!  È la loro modalità di comunicare tra di loro e pure con noi. Anche con il movimento delle orecchie “parlano” o con il modo di inclinare la testa. È diverso dal linguaggio per esempio di un cane o di un gatto. Bisogna comprendere una cosa: l’alpaca nella natura è una preda. Per cui quando entriamo nel recinto ci vedono come predatori. Se entra un estraneo si chiedono: “Viene in pace o è un potenziale aggressore?”. Lì entra in gioco il loro linguaggio corporeo. 

Quando allora ci accompagnano nelle passeggiate per loro è una sofferenza?

No, se vedessi una sofferenza per loro non li farei uscire. Lasciamo che siano loro ad avvicinarsi per la passeggiata. È capitato di lasciarne a casa uno. Quando arrivo con le cavezzine e vedono schierate alcune persone, capiscono subito che è ora di uscire. Se non volessero passeggiare, non si lascerebbero prendere e per prima non li forzerei. Stabiliamo orari e giornate proprio per rispettare il loro benessere. In luglio e agosto, definiamo un calendario di visite prestabilite (3 giorni alla settimana, di cui 2 qui al laboratorio con attività di fattoria didattica per i bambini e 1 di gita sui sentieri verso gli alpeggi). Negli altri mesi solo nei week-end o su richiesta. Da novembre poi prevediamo un periodo di riposo, per lasciare che gli alpaca vivano in tranquillità la loro vita naturale, che pascolino, mangino e dormano serenamente. Quando mi trovo davanti a chi insiste molto per farli uscire dal recinto in momenti inopportuni per gli animali, senza comprendere le motivazioni, penso: “Non è un circo… né uno zoo…”. Purtroppo ultimamente è diventata un po’ una moda, quella dell’alpaca. Mi hanno telefonato per chiedermi di comprarne uno da tenere in casa… Non è un peluche, non è un animale da compagnia. Sono stata contattata anche per averne uno per fare una pubblicità, ma abbiamo detto no perché voleva dire un grande disagio per l’animale, sia nel trasporto sia nel luogo chiuso in cui volevano girare”.

Gli alpaca, Ladina, mi sembra che ci aiutino a capire una grande lezione sulla natura: dobbiamo avvicinarci con rispetto, non volendo dominarla, come spesso facciamo. Questi animali, con il loro peculiare carattere, ci invitano a comprendere le esigenze naturali. Se li amiamo, li rispettiamo. Giusto?

Sì, per esempio ci insegnano osservando la loro scarsa propensione a farsi accarezzare. Nelle passeggiate, avvisiamo di non toccarli senza avere accortezza: poche volte e solo sul collo. Quando camminano non desiderano essere toccati, meglio nelle soste. Non gradiscono il contatto fisico, neppure tra di loro, tranne tra mamma e cuccioli. La mamma alpaca è molto protettiva, il piccolo diventa la sua ombra fino a 8-10 mesi. Altrimenti, tra adulti, non si sdraiano neppure uno accanto all’altro e, se durante il trekking si sfiorano per caso camminando, si sputano! (Lo sputo è segno di disappunto o di difesa).

Sorrido, perché li capisco e penso che un po’ mi sento un alpaca (non per lo sputo), quando mi trovo nelle ore di punta in metropolitana o sul bus! Un’altra curiosità che possiamo raccontare è la dinamica tra i maschi del gruppo. 

Sì, Sancho è al momento il capo branco, un alpaca nel pieno della gioventù, sopra i tre anni, con un carattere forte. Fernando, che ha 15 anni, non vorrebbe mai essere capo branco perché ama stare per i fatti suoi. Yavari e Misky invece cercano di prendere il posto di Sancho, scontrandosi per avere la leadership.

Un momento di tenerezza tra loro da raccontarci?

Tra le femmine, Kelita ha alcuni problemi alla cute per cui ha bisogno di creme e gocce. Quando le metto le gocce, Lonquimai viene a controllare, mette il naso nel vasetto per verificare cos’è, segue tutto!

Ecco chi sono i 12 alpaca! I miei preferiti sono la coppia di fidanzati Yuma – Lonquimai.

-fine prima puntata-

English – The alpacas, their wool and the natural products: interview to the breeders Ladina and Simona

Surrounded by the mountains of the Valmalenco with snow-capped peaks, in the middle of nature and the flowers of the lady of the house, I sit in the sun in the garden of Ladina, an alpaca breeder, in front of the veranda of her laboratory. I am again in this special place, having attended a course in spinning and natural wool dyeing a few years ago, to write about Ladina, her daughter Simona and their “kids”. In this way indeed the real hosts of Alpacas la Foppa are affectionately named, when they are not called one by one by first name: next to the house and the shop, in a stable and two large enclosures, 12 alpacas live, next to goats and sheep. Here a boundless love for these funny creatures reigns. Everything revolves around their well-being. To the point that if you call and insist on seeing them at unexpected times or days or periods, Ladina will firmly tell you that it is not possible if it involves an inconvenience, an effort or a fatigue for her “kids”. “First the welfare of the animals, then the whims”, she explains to me with a resoluteness that hides loving tenderness for the alpacas.

In the first episode on this enchanting place, we tell you about the protagonists, the alpacas. Do not miss the second episode, in which we will talk about the wool that comes from the alpacas, facing the thorny theme “is it torture or is it not torture for the animal?”. We will also tell you about the balls of wool and the creations that you can buy from Ladina and Simona, we will listen to them talking about it in a video!

Let’s begin from where the wool originates: the animals.

How did you start raising alpacas?

We saw a report of Melaverde on these animals, we were curious and we started looking for information on the internet about the farms. We went to visit them, to learn more. When we saw those animals, we fell immediately in love with them! We started in 2010 with three alpacas: Kelita, Rodrigo and Fernando.

Did you read up on these beautiful animals?

Yes, I read a book, I searched the internet, I subscribed to Lamas magazine. Mostly from foreign sources (German or American) because there is little in Italy. A book by an American author who developed a very valid method of approach to alpacas, which respects both their world, their way of thinking, understanding of their movements helped me a lot. These are important aspects to comprehend before acting and dealing with these animals.

Understanding alpacas is crucial, because we are not talking about simple pets, they have very special characters!

Yes exactly. They are so curious and at the same time reserved. It is precisely this confidentiality that must be understood! We must understand that they do not like physical contact.

So we can’t come here and rush to stroke them, running after them, right?

Not really… They have this need to not always want to be touched, caressed, carried around. They are very, very intelligent animals. They have their own way of expressing themselves and they understand what you want from them. If I enter the enclosure with empty hands, they look at me, they study me: “She comes alone to see, she comes to visit us”. If I enter with the cavezza (an accessory that, with the lead, serves to lead the animals), they understand that it is time to walk around and behave very differently.

They make themselves understood even with verses. By the way, what does an alpaca’s call sound like?

Humming! It is their way of communicating with each other and also with us. Even with the movement of the ears “they talk” or with the way they recline the head. It is different from the language of a dog or cat, for example. We must understand one thing: the alpaca in nature is a prey. So when we enter the fence they see us as predators. If a stranger enters, they ask themselves, “Is he/she at peace or is he/she a potential aggressor?”. Their body language comes into play there.

When they accompany us on walks, is it then a pain for them?

No, if I saw a suffering for them I would not let them out. We let them get closer to us for the walk. It happened to me to leave one at home. When I arrive with the little “cavezza” and they see some people lined up, they immediately understand that it’s time to go out. If they didn’t want to walk, they wouldn’t let themselves be caught and I wouldn’t force them first. We set schedules and days just to respect their well-being. In July and August, we define a schedule of pre-arranged visits (3 days a week, of which 2 here at the laboratory with educational farm activities for children and 1 excursion on the paths to the mountain pastures). In the other months only on weekends or on request. From November onwards we expect a period of rest, to let the alpacas live their natural life in peace, graze, eat and sleep peacefully. When I’m in front of those who insist a lot to get them out of the fence at inappropriate times for animals, without understanding the reasons, I think: “It’s not a circus… nor a zoo…”. Unfortunately, alpaca has become a fashion trend lately. They phoned me to ask to buy one of them to keep it at home… It’s not a stuffed animal, it’s not a pet. I was also contacted to borrow one for an advertisement, but we said no because it meant a great inconvenience to the animal, both in transport and in the enclosed place where they wanted to shoot”.

The alpacas, Ladina, seem to me to help us understand a great lesson on nature: we must approach it with respect, not wanting to dominate it, as we often do. These animals, with their peculiar character, invite us to understand natural needs. If we love them, we respect them. Right?

Yes, for example, they teach us by observing their low propensity to be caressed. In walks, we advise not to touch them without being careful: a few times and only on the neck. When they walk they do not want to be touched, better at the stops. They don’t like physical contact, even between them, except between mum and puppies. The alpaca mother is very protective, the baby becomes her shadow up to 8-10 months. Otherwise, between adults, they don’t even lie down next to each other, and if during the trek they touch by chance walking they spit! (Spit is a sign of disappointment or defense).

I smile, because I understand them and I think a little I feel like an alpaca (not for spitting), when I am in the rush hours on the subway or on the bus! Another curiosity that we can tell is the dynamics between the males of the group.

Yes, Sancho is currently the leader of the herd, an alpaca in the midst of youth, over three years old, with a strong character. Fernando, who is 15 years old, would never want to be a leader because he loves being on his own. Yavari and Misky instead try to take Sancho’s place, clashing for leadership.

A moment of tenderness between them to tell us?

Among females, Kelita has some skin problems so she needs creams and drops. When I put the drops in, Lonquimai comes to check, puts her nose in the jar to see what it is, she controls everything!

Here it is who the 12 alpacas are! My favorites are the engaged couple Yuma – Lonquimai.

-end of the first episode-