In the last Premier Vision Denim fair in Milan we met many Pakistani realities selling denim. This article aims to explore the challenges faced by Pakistan in achieving sustainable denim production and the strategies employed to overcome them.

Denim in Pakistan: A Blue Gold Rush

Pakistan is the third largest preferred cotton-producing countries* in 2019/2020, after Brazil and India. The country is considered as a significantly large producer and exporter of denim, with a long history of textile manufacturing, and is home to several denim mills and factories which produce denim fabrics, garments, and accessories for domestic and international markets.

The denim industry in Pakistan has grown significantly in recent years, thanks to the country’s large labor force, competitive prices, and favorable trade agreements with major markets like the United States and the European Union.

*defined by the list of recognized standards. Includes: ABRAPA, BASF e3, Better Cotton Initiative (BCI), Cleaner Cotton, Cotton made in Africa (CmiA), Fairtrade, Fairtrade Organic, Field to Market, In-Conversion Cotton (Transitional in USA), ISCC, myBMP, Organic, REEL Cotton, Regenerative Cotton, and the USCTP.

Environmental Impact of Denim Production 

Denim production significantly contributes to Pakistan’s economy but has adverse environmental impacts. Which are five environmental impacts of denim production in Pakistan?

• Water pollution
  A major environmental impacts of denim production is water pollution. During denim production, large amounts of chemicals are used to dye and treat the fabric. These chemicals can contaminate the water used in production, leading to pollution of nearby water sources such as rivers and streams. The polluted water can harm aquatic life and people’s health relying on these water sources for drinking and irrigation.
• Energy consumption
  The production of denim requires a considerable amount of energy. The energy is used to power the various machines used in production, including spinning, weaving, and dyeing machines. This energy consumption increases greenhouse gas emissions, contributing to climate change.
• Land use
  Denim production requires large land for cotton cultivation. Using agricultural land for cotton cultivation can lead to deforestation, soil erosion, and biodiversity loss.
• Waste generation
  The denim production process generates a significant amount of waste, including leftover cotton fibers, yarns, and chemicals. These wastes can end up in landfills or be disposed of improperly, leading to further environmental degradation.
• Human health
  The use of chemicals in denim production can have adverse effects on the health of workers and nearby communities. Exposure to these chemicals can cause respiratory problems, skin irritation, and other health issues.

Sustainable Practices in Denim Production in Pakistan 

Like in many other countries, denim production in Pakistan has historically been associated with various environmental and social challenges. Whereas, in recent years, there has been a growing recognition of the need for sustainable practices in denim production, which can help minimize the negative impact on the environment and improve the social conditions of workers involved in the production process.

Here are some sustainable practices in denim production in Pakistan:

• Water conservation
  Denim production is a water-intensive process, and in many cases, water is discharged untreated into nearby water bodies, causing pollution. To address this issue, many denim producers in Pakistan are adopting water conservation measures, such as recycling and reusing water in different stages of production, implementing closed-loop systems, and using low-water dyeing technologies. These practices can significantly reduce the amount of freshwater used in denim production and minimize the risk of water pollution.
• Energy efficiency
  Denim production requires a significant amount of energy, mainly for heating, cooling, and powering machinery. To reduce energy consumption, many denim producers in Pakistan are investing in energy-efficient technologies, such as LED lighting, heat recovery systems, and renewable energy sources like solar and wind power. Using renewable energy sources, denim producers can reduce their reliance on fossil fuels and minimize their carbon footprint.
• Chemical management
  Denim production involves the use of a variety of chemicals, including dyes, finishing agents, and detergents, which can have harmful effects on human health and the environment. To ensure safe use of chemicals, many denim producers in Pakistan are adopting chemical management practices, such as using safer and more eco-friendly chemicals, implementing closed-loop systems for chemical recycling, and ensuring proper disposal of hazardous waste.
• Fair labour practices
  Denim production in Pakistan, like in many other countries, has been associated with labor rights violations, including low wages, long working hours, and poor working conditions. To address these issues, many denim producers in Pakistan are adopting fair labor practices, such as providing workers with safe and healthy working conditions, ensuring fair wages and benefits, and promoting gender equality and diversity in the workplace.
• Product traceability
  Denim production involves complex global supply chains, making it difficult to trace the origin of materials and ensure responsible sourcing practices. To promote transparency and accountability in the supply chain, many denim producers in Pakistan are implementing product traceability systems, like block chain technology and RFID tags, which allow them to track the origin of materials and ensure they meet environmental and social standards.

Challenges in Implementing Sustainable Practices 

Implementing sustainable practices in Pakistan presents several challenges that require careful consideration and planning. A major challenge is the lack of awareness about sustainable practices among the general population. As a result, many people in Pakistan are unaware of the importance of sustainable practices and how they can contribute to preserving the environment. Another challenge is the lack of regulatory framework and enforcement mechanisms to ensure compliance with sustainable practices. This creates a situation where many businesses and industries continue to operate in a manner that is detrimental to the environment.

Additionally, lack of resources and funding for implementing sustainable practices can make it difficult for businesses and organizations to invest in sustainable solutions. Finally, cultural and social norms in Pakistan can also pose challenges to adopting sustainable practices, as some practices may conflict with traditional values and beliefs. Addressing these challenges require a multi-faceted approach that includes awareness campaigns, stronger regulatory frameworks, increased funding and resources, and engagement with local communities to promote understanding and acceptance of sustainable practices.

Success Stories in Sustainable Denim Production in Pakistan 

Pakistan’s denim industry has made significant progress in adopting sustainable practices in recent years. Here are three success stories in sustainable denim production in Pakistan:
* Artistic Milliners
Artistic Milliners is a leading denim manufacturer in Pakistan that has made significant strides in sustainable denim production. The company has invested in sustainable technologies, such as laser printing and ozone washes, to reduce water consumption and chemical use in manufacturing. They have also implemented a closed-loop production system that recycles water and reduces waste.
* Soorty Enterprises
Soorty Enterprises is another Pakistani denim manufacturer implementing sustainable practices in its production processes. The company’s dedicated sustainability department reduces water, chemical, and energy consumption. Soorty has also implemented a water recycling program, which has helped the company reduce its water usage by 40%.
* Naveena Denim
Naveena Denim is a Pakistani denim manufacturer that has invested significantly in sustainable practices. The company has installed a wastewater treatment plant that recycles 100% of the wastewater generated during production. Naveena has also implemented a sustainable chemical management program, which ensures that all chemicals used in the manufacturing process are safe for workers and the environment. Additionally, the company has implemented energy-efficient practices, such as using solar panels to power its factories.

The Future of Sustainable Denim Production in Pakistan 

The future of sustainable denim production in Pakistan is closely tied to the fashion industry’s increasing focus on sustainability. Denim sustainability has become a key priority for many fashion brands as they seek to reduce the environmental impact of their products. Cotton sustainability is also critical, as cotton is the primary raw material used in denim production. In addition to environmental concerns, modern slavery is a significant issue in the textile industry, and brands must ensure that their denim is produced ethically. Textile dyeing is another area where sustainable practices can have a significant impact, as traditional dyeing methods can be highly polluting. As the fashion industry continues to prioritize sustainability, Pakistan’s denim producers must adopt sustainable practices to remain competitive and meet the demands of environmentally conscious consumers.
Pakistani textile companies are just beginning to incorporate Sustainable Business Practices. Not only for the pressure of market forces such as competition and demand (in order to compete in the global market, textile producers must satisfy customers’ environmental demands), but also because textile companies are under the regulatory pressure, for example by European Union’s (EU’s) Scheme of Generalized Scheme of Preferences Plus (GSP+) to avail duty free export to EU. Textile firms are continuously striving hard to adopt sustainable business practices. Net Zero Pakistan, for example, is a national partnership involving cutting-edge businesses, government organizations, and sectoral specialists to achieve Pakistan’s objective of net zero carbon by 2050. 23 signatories of this partnership have committed and set net zero targets, affirmed to measure and disclose transparently the levels and sources of GHG emissions, vowed to decarbonize value chains and lastly have shown interest in advocating for climate action. The textile sector is also actively engaging in international conventions and platforms such as ‘Better Work Programme’, ‘Decent Work Country Programme-IV (2023-27)’, ‘The Accord on Fire and Building Safety’ (source: All Pakistan Textile Mills Association).
Achieving sustainable denim production in Pakistan requires a collective effort from all stakeholders in the industry. While progress has been made in adopting eco-friendly practices, there are still challenges to overcome such as the high cost of sustainable materials and limited access to technology. To address these challenges, manufacturers must invest in research and development, collaborate with international brands and experts, and prioritize the health and safety of workers. As consumers, we can promote sustainable denim production by buying from brands that prioritize sustainability and ethical practices. We can build a more sustainable and responsible denim industry in Pakistan and beyond by working together.

– From our Pakistani correspondent –

Note: the textile industry in Pakistan has been facing a crisis in the last months of 2022 causing a drop of textile exports.

Other articles on jeans and denim >

Photos: Divazus Fabric Store; Claire Abdo; Jason Leung; Maude Frédérique Lavoie.

 Puoi ascoltare qui l’articolo: Stile Biologico 

Abbiamo conosciuto Stile Biologico grazie al passaparola di un’amica, Isabella, durante l’iniziativa Sosteniamo il sostenibile. Siamo andati a trovare insieme a lei Debora, artigiana che continua la tradizione di famiglia, per conoscerla di persona a Firenze.

In un divertente pomeriggio, grazie alla fotografa Sara Angiuli abbiamo scattato qualche foto con i capi in tessuti naturali e biologici che questo atelier crea con passione. Attivando squisite sinergie, per lo shooting ho indossato i bellissimi accessori fatti a mano da Isa&Dora green bijoux e i preziosi cappelli artigianali di Atelier Gatto.

Debora ci racconta di Stile Biologico in questa intervista, della storia, i tessuti, l’impegno sostenibile e come le sue creazioni siano arrivate al cinema.

Ciao Debora, grazie per l’ospitalità! Cosa possiamo trovare nel tuo atelier?

“Passione. Tradizione. Creatività. Il tutto circondato da abiti, gonne, pantaloni, cardigan realizzati in maglia interamente da noi o da coloro con cui collaboriamo”.

Come realizzate capi e accessori?

“Per la maggior parte dei capi presenti nel nostro atelier, il nostro lavoro parte dal filo. Scegliamo la trama, i colori da abbinare o ‘melangiare’ e via! I nostri telai iniziano la magia… Altri invece sono realizzati con stoffe, jersey e qualche capo è creato interamente a mano o, grazie alle collaborazioni con altre artigiane fiorentine, a telaio manuale e uncinetto”.

Quando e perché è nato Stile Biologico?

“Stile Biologico nasce nel 1997 da un’idea di Giuditta Blandini. Lavorando come agronoma a stretto contatto con l’ambiente, si rese conto come una delle cause più inquinanti fosse proprio l’industria della moda. All’epoca non se ne parlava tanto come oggi e qui a Firenze fu uno dei primi negozi di abbigliamento biologico“.

Come hai iniziato, Debora? E perché è importante continuare le tradizioni?

“Sono sempre stata molto creativa fin dall’infanzia e crescere in una famiglia dove bisnonne, nonne, zie e madre cuciono, tessono ecc. mi ha sicuramente aperto la strada, anche inconsciamente, a questo lavoro. Quindi, come tanti grandi del passato, mi sono formata in bottega.
Credo che da questo, dalla mia memoria e da quella di mia madre venga fuori un forte attaccamento alla salvaguardia delle tradizioni.
Mi piace pensare che ogni abito sia il sogno di colui che lo ha ideato e il sogno di colui che lo indossa. Mi piace credere che sia bello indossare qualcosa di unico, fatto con amore e che rappresenti l’eccellenza dell’artigianato italiano.Cosa c’è di più bello di comprare qualcosa che hai la possibilità di veder nascere e che è di ottima qualità per durare nel tempo? Il nostro atelier offre la rara possibilità di vederci lavorare e quindi di seguire con i propri occhi tutti i passaggi e i tempi di lavorazione. La trasparenza è un obiettivo importante e pone l’acquirente davanti a certezze e sicurezze che l’industria della moda non sempre riesce a dare”.

Quale tipo di tessuti e di materiali utilizzate nell’atelier?

“Principalmente acquistiamo filati biologici certificati con colorazioni GOTS, ma anche fibre naturali. Cerchiamo inoltre di recuperare tessuti, pizzi, vecchi bottoni ecc. per nuovi progetti.
In estate è possibile trovare nel nostro atelier lino biologico, cotone bio, canapa e in inverno lana bio e di alpaca.
Ovviamente sono sempre entusiasta quando riesco a trovare nuove interessanti fibre vegetali! Ma il problema dei piccoli brand è che non acquistiamo grandi quantità e le aziende tessili, invece di vederci come una risorsa per smaltire qualche piccolo invenduto, alzano i prezzi per i minimi d’ordine”.

Debora, perché hai scelto questo tipo di tessuti?

“In realtà utilizzare questo tipo di tessuti non è una novità di questa generazione, ma piuttosto una rivalutazione di quello che avevamo e che abbiamo ‘perso’ in cambio di un profitto maggiore (il fast fashion ne è ancora oggi un esempio), a discapito della qualità, della nostra salute e dell’ambiente. Se andiamo alla storia del nostro Paese o più semplicemente ai racconti delle nostre nonne, ritroviamo l’utilizzo della maggior parte di queste fibre. Perché? Semplice: sono fibre resistenti, non dannose per noi e per l’ambiente e come vedi tu stessa stiamo finalmente tornando anche a coltivarle nel nostro Paese, come facevamo un tempo”.

Mi racconti come hai creato il vestito verde e azzurro che ho indossato per le foto?

“Utilizzerò una frase celebre di Vincent Van Gogh: ‘Prima sogno i miei dipinti e poi dipingo i miei sogni’. Questo è un pò quello che accade a me ogni volta che creo qualcosa.
Nel tuo caso, ho cercato di creare qualcosa che potesse essere in linea con il tuo stile e valorizzasse le tue linee. L’accostamento di questi due colori forti l’ho amato fin da subito, mi hanno ricordato la forza e il colore del mare (celeste) e la bellezza delle foreste e quindi della natura (verde).
Infine non potevo evitare di dare un tocco romantico grazie alla cintura con la rosa. Devi sapere che questo fiore nel tempo è diventato quasi un simbolo del nostro brand, tanto che è possibile acquistare delle coloratissime spille da porre su abiti e accessori, per dare un tocco di colore e creatività anche a un vecchio capo del nostro armadio. Spesso sono realizzate con i ‘fondo cono’ (quando rimane poco filato per essere impiegato nella realizzazione di qualcosa)”.

Nel vostro atelier ci sono non solo capi in vendita, ma vi occupate anche di riparazioni e refashion. Ci racconti cos’hai realizzato riparando e rimodernando?

“Quando e se possibile cerchiamo di riparare o ridare vita a un vecchio capo anche se non fa parte delle nostre collezioni. Può essere un semplice buco in un maglione, delle maniche da accorciare oppure la creazione di qualcosa di completamente nuovo. Alcune cose che ho creato con il refashion? Un maglioncino per cane, fasce per capelli, guanti senza dita e ultimamente ho riciclato una vecchia camicia da notte per fare vari sacchetti porta-frutta-e-verdura. Insomma, ogni volta mi lascio guidare dalla mia fantasia e creatività”.

Ho visto anche l’intimo nel vostro atelier, bellissimo! Come sei arrivata a inserirlo nelle tue creazioni?

“L’idea di creare l’intimo è nata da una serie di circostanze. La prima è stata durante le riprese del film a cui abbiamo collaborato (The Last Fighter 2020 di A. Baccini) in cui per una scena si richiedeva all’attrice da noi vestita (Shari Fontani) di indossare una canotta intima. Così, ispirata dai miei gusti romantici, ho cercato di utilizzare jersey di lino e pizzo vintage che già avevo, per creare qualcosa di sostenibile ma anche grazioso. Il risultato è stato davvero sorprendente e apprezzato da tutti i membri del cast e non solo! La seconda circostanza è stata la sempre più crescente richiesta da parte dei miei clienti che non riuscivano a trovare un intimo made in Italy sostenibile ed elegante.
L’idea di cimentarmi nella realizzazione dei reggiseni è venuta poi di conseguenza. E direi che stanno piacendo moltissimo!”

Qual è il vostro impegno in termini di sostenibilità ?

“La parola ‘sostenibilità’ raccoglie molti aspetti e cerco di migliorarmi giorno dopo giorno ma, si sa, la perfezione non esiste. Quando valuto un tessuto o un filato cerco prima di tutto la trasparenza del prodotto. Questo avviene tramite le certificazioni o la possibilità di vederne la realizzazione. Per me è fondamentale comprare qualcosa che sia sinonimo di qualità, tracciabilità e il più possibile a km zero. 
Mi piace utilizzare le fibre naturali ed evitare il più possibile quelle plastiche anche se da riciclo. Adoro creare abiti che non seguono un trend, ma piuttosto che abbiano linee semplici per poter essere indossati e abbinati con facilità e per molto tempo. Amo creare qualcosa che chiunque possa indossare e che ti faccia sentire bella e a proprio agio.
Indubbiamente per me i piccoli atelier come il mio possono essere delle grandi risorse per il settore della sostenibilità. Creando su ordinazione si evita lo spreco. Si possono realizzare capi o oggetti unici, per cui si può più facilmente riciclare un tessuto o un materiale non avendo l’obbligo di una produzione in serie. Senza tralasciare tutte le possibilità di recupero (riparazioni) che abbiamo il piacere e il tempo di fare dando ampio spazio alla nostra creatività”.

Come brand di artigianato sostenibile, hai affrontato o stai affrontando sfide? Se sì, quali sono le principali?

“Le sfide sono sempre tantissime e alcune le ho già elencate nelle risposte precedenti. Quello però di cui invece mi preme parlarti è cosa mi spinge ad affrontarle tutti i giorni.
I sogni, i sorrisi dei clienti, il supporto di tutti coloro che apprezzano il nostro lavoro e indubbiamente i ‘bellissimi cuori’ che ho incrociato e continuo a incrociare durante questa mia avventura. Quest’ultimi sono proprio coloro che ti fanno credere che ci può essere speranza per un cambiamento e un futuro migliore”.

Stile Biologico anche nel cinema! Come siete arrivati sul grande schermo?

“Come la maggior parte delle cose belle della vita, è accaduto all’improvviso e quando meno me lo aspettavo. Avevo avuto la fortuna di conoscere l’attrice e modella Shari Fontani in un servizio fotografico sulla moda sostenibile, nel mio atelier due anni fa. Un giorno mi arriva una sua telefonata in cui mi parla di un progetto cinematografico a cui sta lavorando e mi chiede se mi piacerebbe farne parte. Essendo un’amante dell’arte nelle sue molteplici forme, ho pensato subito che sarebbe stato fantastico! Shari mi ha coinvolta nella possibilità di portare un cambiamento anche nel settore cinematografico, vestendo solo i miei abiti biologici o naturali. L’idea di essere tra le pioniere di un cambiamento anche in un vasto settore come il cinema e la televisione mi ha attratto immensamente fin da subito. Prima di accettare però mi premeva capire di che genere di film si trattasse, della trama, dove sarebbe stato girato, ecc. Il film scritto e diretto da Alessandro Baccini, con l’aiuto di Domenico Costanzo, incentra la storia sulla guerra in Siria e sulla strage di innocenti di cui si parla poco. Tra amore, passione e combattimenti clandestini vediamo lo splendore della nostra Toscana, che fa da sfondo a quasi tutto il film, riuscendo così anche ad abbattere l’inquinamento ambientale poiché girato quasi a km zero. 
Ringrazio profondamente il regista per averci dato questa possibilità di collaborazione, aggiungendo così un altro tema molto forte e importante al suo film, la sostenibilità, e ringrazio tutto il cast, gli operatori e i truccatori tra cui Antonella Baglioni. 
Vestire Shari è stata davvero una bellissima esperienza e da cinefila direi anche molto emozionante vedere i miei capi per la prima volta in assoluto in un film. L’unico dispiacere è stato non poter essere stata presente sul set per assistere almeno a una ripresa. Chissà, magari ci saranno nuove occasioni in futuro”.

Per uomo, donna e bambino.

Sito: Atelier Biologic
Facebook: Stile Biologico
Instagram: Stilebiologico

Shooting

Foto: Sara Angiuli

Gioielli ecologici: Isa&Dora green bijoux

Cappelli: Atelier Gatto

Abito Stilo Biologico verde e blu: lino biologico. Abito Stile Biologico chiaro: lino biologico non tinto.

Le scarpe chiare sono vintage di famiglia.

English – Artisan fashion of Stile Biologico: from nature to cinema in the name of sustainability

We met Stile Biologico thanks to word of mouth from a friend, Isabella, during the Sosteniamo il sostenibile initiative. We went with her to visit Debora, an artisan who continues the family tradition, to meet her in person in Florence.

In a fun afternoon, thanks to photographer Sara Angiuli we took some photos with the garments in natural and organic fabrics that this atelier creates with passion. Activating exquisite synergies, for the shooting I wore the beautiful handmade accessories by Isa&Dora green bijoux and the precious handcrafted hats by Atelier Gatto.

Debora tells us about Stile Biologico in this interview, about the history, the fabrics, the sustainable commitment and how her creations reached the cinema.

Hello Debora, thanks for the warm hospitality! What can we find in your atelier?

“Passion. Tradition. Creativity. All surrounded by dresses, skirts, trousers, cardigans made entirely in knits by us or by those we collaborate with”.

How do you make garments and accessories?

“For most of the garments in our atelier, our work starts from the thread. We choose the texture, the colors to match or blend and go! Our looms start the magic… Others are made with fabrics, jersey and some items are created entirely by hand or, thanks to collaborations with other Florentine artisans, with manual loom and crochet”.

When and why was Stile Biologico born?

“Stile Biologico was born in 1997 from an idea of ​​Giuditta Blandini. Working as an agronomist in close contact with the environment, she realized that one of the most polluting causes was precisely the fashion industry. At the time it was not talked about as much as it is today and here in Florence it was one of the first organic clothing stores“.

How did you start, Debora? And why is it important to continue traditions?

“I have always been very creative since childhood and growing up in a family where great-grandmothers, grandmothers, aunts and mother sew, weave, etc. has certainly opened the way, even unconsciously, to this work. So, like many greats of the past, I trained in the shop.I believe that from this, from my memory and that of my mother, a strong attachment to the preservation of traditions emerges.
I like to think that every dress is the dream of the one who designed it and the dream of the one who wears it. I like to believe that it is nice to wear something unique, made with love and that represents the excellence of Italian craftsmanship.
What is more beautiful than buying something that you have the opportunity to see born and that is of excellent quality to last over time? Our atelier offers the rare opportunity to see us work and therefore to follow all the process steps and times with your own eyes. Transparency is an important goal and places the buyer in front of certainties and warranties that the fashion industry is not always able to provide”.

What type of fabrics and materials do you use in the atelier?

“We mainly buy certified organic yarns with GOTS colors, but also natural fibers. We also try to recover fabrics, laces, old buttons, etc. for new projects.
In summer it is possible to find in our atelier organic linen, organic cotton, hemp and in winter organic and alpaca wool.
Of course I am always thrilled when I manage to find interesting new plant fibers! But the problem with small brands is that we do not buy large quantities and the textile companies, instead of seeing us as a resource to dispose of some small unsold items, raise prices for minimum orders “.

Debora, why did you choose this type of fabrics?

“In reality, using this type of fabrics is not new to this generation, but rather a revaluation of what we had and what we ‘lost’ in exchange for a greater profit (fast fashion is still an example of this today), at the expense quality, our health and the environment.
If we go to the history of our country or more simply to the stories of our grandmothers, we find the use of most of these fibers. Why? Simple: they are resistant fibers, not harmful to us and the environment and, as you can see, we are finally returning to cultivate them in our country, as we did in the past”.

Can you tell me how you created the green and blue dress I wore for the photos?

“I will use a famous phrase by Vincent Van Gogh: ‘First I dream my paintings and then I paint my dreams’. This is kind of what happens to me every time I create something.
In your case, I tried to create something that could be in line with your style and enhance your lines. I loved the combination of these two strong colors right away, they reminded me of the strength and color of the sea (light blue) and the beauty of the forests and therefore of nature (green).
Finally, I could not avoid giving a romantic touch thanks to the belt with the rose. You must know that over time this flower has almost become a symbol of our brand, so much so that it is possible to buy colorful brooches to put on clothes and accessories, to give a touch of color and creativity even to an old garment in our wardrobe. They are often made with ‘cone bottoms’ (when there is little yarn left to be used in making something)”.

In your atelier there are not only garments for sale, but you also deal with repairs and refashion. Can you tell us what you have achieved by repairing and modernizing?

“Whenever and wherever possible we try to repair or revive an old garment even if it is not part of our collections. It can be a simple hole in a sweater, short sleeves or the creation of something completely new. Some things I created with the refashion? A dog sweater, hair bands, fingerless gloves and lately I’ve been recycling an old nightdress to make various fruit-and-vegetable bags. In short, every time I let myself be guided by my imagination and creativity”.

I also saw the underwear in your atelier, beautiful! How did you come to include it in your creations?

“The idea of ​​creating underwear was born from a series of circumstances. The first was during the shooting of the film we collaborated with (The Last Fighter 2020 by A. Baccini) in which for a scene the actress dressed in our clothes (Shari Fontani) was required to wear an undershirt. So, inspired by my romantic tastes, I tried to use vintage linen jersey and lace that I already had, to create something sustainable but also pretty. The result was truly amazing and appreciated by all the cast members and beyond! The second circumstance was the ever increasing demand from my customers who could not find sustainable and elegant made in Italy underwear.
The idea of ​​trying my hand at making bras then came as a result. And I would say they are enjoying it very much!”

What is your commitment in terms of sustainability?

“The word ‘sustainability’ brings together many aspects and I try to improve myself day after day but, you know, perfection does not exist. When I evaluate a fabric or a yarn, I first of all look for the transparency of the product. This happens through the certifications or the possibility to see the realization. For me it is essential to buy something that is synonymous with quality, traceability and as much as possible at zero km.
I like to use natural fibers and avoid plastic ones as much as possible, even if they are recycled. I love to create clothes that don’t follow a trend, but rather have simple lines so that they can be worn and combined easily and for a long time. I love to create something that anyone can wear and that makes you feel beautiful and comfortable.
Undoubtedly, for me, small ateliers like mine can be great resources for the sustainability sector. By creating to order you avoid waste. You can make unique items or garments, so you can more easily recycle a fabric or material not having the obligation of mass production. Without neglecting all the recovery possibilities (repairs) that we have the pleasure and time to do, giving ample space to our creativity”.

As a sustainable craft brand, have you faced or are you facing challenges? If so, what are the main ones?

“The challenges are always many and I have already listed some of them in the previous answers. But what I want to talk to you about is what pushes me to face them every day.
The dreams, the smiles of the customers, the support of all those who appreciate our work and undoubtedly the ‘beautiful hearts’ that I have crossed and continue to cross during my adventure. The latter are precisely those who make you believe that there can be hope for change and a better future”.

Stile Biologico even in the cinema! How did you arrive on the big screen?

“Like most of the good things in life, it happened suddenly and when I least expected it. I was lucky enough to meet the actress and model Shari Fontani in a photo shoot on sustainable fashion in my atelier two years ago. One day I get a phone call from her telling me about a film project she is working on and asking me if I would like to be part of it. Being a lover of art in its many forms, I immediately thought it would be fantastic!
Shari involved me in the possibility of bringing about a change in the film industry too, by wearing only my organic or natural clothes. The idea of ​​being among the pioneers of change even in a vast sector such as cinema and television attracted me immensely right from the start. Before accepting, however, I wanted to understand what kind of film it was, the plot, where it would be shot, etc. The film written and directed by Alessandro Baccini, with the help of Domenico Costanzo, focuses on the story of the war in Syria and the massacre of innocents of which little is said. Between love, passion and clandestine fights we see the splendor of our Tuscany, which is the background to almost the entire film, thus also managing to reduce environmental pollution as it was shot almost at zero km.
I deeply thank the director for giving us this opportunity to collaborate, thus adding another very strong and important theme to his film, sustainability, and I thank all the cast, operators and make-up artists including Antonella Baglioni.
Dressing Shari was truly a wonderful experience and as a cinephile I would also say very exciting to see my clothes for the first time ever in a movie. The only regret was not being able to have been on the set to watch at least one take. Who knows, maybe there will be new opportunities in the future”.

Men, women and kids collections.

Website: Atelier Biologico
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Shooting

Photos: Sara Angiuli

Eco-jewelry: Isa&Dora green bijoux

Hats: Atelier Gatto

Green and blue dress (Stilo Biologico) organic linen. Light dress (Stilo Biologico) organic undyed linen.

The white shoes are vintage from my family.