What are microfibres? What size are they?

“Microfibre” is a consolidated term in the textile industry to indicate fibers between 10 and 30 μm. The term “microfibers” is also used to indicate the fibrous material released during washing. It has been proposed to differentiate the term by calling these materials ‘fragments of fibres’, i.e. the fragments of fibers between 1 μm and 5 mm in size released from clothing and home textiles during washing, drying and use.

Therefore, “microfibres” in the textile industry actually indicates fibers between 10 and 30 micrometres, while what is released by clothing and home textiles is more correctly defined as a fragment of fibers and has dimensions between 1 μm and 5 millimetres.

What are microplastics?

Microplastics are fragments of synthetic fibers. Primary microplastic is released directly into the environment in the form of small plastic particles (less than 5mm in size) which include fiber fragments released during the domestic washing process. Other sources for primary microplastics include road markings, tire wear, marine coating and cosmetics. Secondary microplastics are the by-products of the natural erosion of larger plastic objects released into the environment.

Multiple steps in wastewater treatment plants can filter out up to 95% of fiber fragments. However, the remaining 5% of fiber fragments can end up in rivers and oceans and enter the food chain through:

• table salt;
• contaminated water;
• ingestion of marine creatures

causing adverse health effects.

They are not only a risk to our health, but also to that of marine creatures, threatening the functioning of their metabolic activities.

Additionally, fiber fragments can also impact health through inhalation (outdoor and indoor) and direct skin contact through personal care products, textiles, or indoor dust.

Where do fiber fragments mainly come from?

• From domestic washing of clothes
• From waste generated during textile production
• From discarded textiles
• From landfills near rivers and
• From domestic drainage

Considering domestic washing, how many microfibers are released?

The release of fiber fragments during washing varies from 100 to 300 mg per kg of washed fabric. So for a 7 kg washing machine load, it will range between 700 and 2100 mg in total. Making some estimates on a typical washing scheme (times, frequency, quantity) in developed countries, assuming that it is adopted in these countries by 1 billion people to wash their clothes, 14,400,000 kg of fragments of fibers is released to the environment every year. Any process that reduces fiber strength, including sanding, brushing, bleaching, has the potential to increase the release of fiber fragments in consecutive wet processes.

Various important parameters affect the release of fragments from textile fibers including type of fabric, weave/knit structure,  type and concentration of the detergent, temperature, pH, spin-speed of the spin cycle, duration of washing and processes drying.

Let’s consider for example he type of fiber.

The fiber fragments in the marine environment are classified as natural, cellulosic man-made and synthetic. The concentration of natural and cellulosic fiber fragments in the ocean is much higher than synthetic fiber fragments. Fabrics made from cotton and other cellulosic materials release more fiber fragments during the washing process than polyester fabrics. However, cotton, wool, silk and man-made cellulosic fibers such as bamboo, modal, tencel/lyocell are biodegradable compared to thermoplastic fibers in the marine environment. Polyester fibers are considered a greater threat to the environment than cotton because they have an extremely low biodegradation rate.

In general, natural and man-made cellulosic fibers degrade easily, however, the presence of dyes and chemicals for finishing the fabrics can reduce the biodegradation rate.

Most textile products are treated with various synthetic dyes. The presence of these chemicals can complicate the biodegradation of even natural fibers such as cotton.

In general, various functional additives have been applied to fibers of cellulose origin such as crease recovery, water/soil repellent, flame retardant, antimicrobial, and softeners. When fiber fragments are released into the marine environment, these chemicals and dyes integrate with the fiber fragment to create additional health hazards for aquatic creatures.

Let’s consider another variable, the detergent. How do they affect the release of microfibers?

There are conflicting studies. Some show that the use of detergent promotes the emission of fiber fragments compared to washing with water only. Others that the use of the cleaner has no significant impact on the release of microfiber. The apparent contradiction in the results is likely driven by differences in testing methodology (some studies use clean, often new or artificially aged, and homogenous wash loads of garments including one or a few garment types; others measure the release from solid consumer laundry).

Powder or liquid? Powder detergent generates a higher emission than liquid detergent. Powder detergents contain an inorganic component called zeolite, which is insoluble in water and causes more friction between the clothes and the washing machine with a higher chance of producing fiber fragments.

However, the chemical formulation of the detergent matters, whether it’s liquid or powder.

Generally, nonionic surfactant-containing detergent is easily soluble in water and works very well in hard water, but is more expensive than anionic surfactant.

The detergent industry uses various enzymes to speed up the washing process. These products are more expensive, good for washing and stain removal; according to some studies they attenuate the fiber fragments more during washing, according to others they increase the release.

Furthermore, the research results also show a significant reduction in the release of microfibre after the first cycles.

If what emerges from the various studies on the impact of detergent does not seem to give certainties, it is instead evident how much the temperature and quantity of water affect it.

How does the water temperature affect the microfibre release?

The release of fiber fragments increases with increasing washing temperature.

In some cases, a higher level of fiber fragments is released during the washing process at higher temperatures even without the addition of detergent or fabric softener.

To reduce the release of fiber fragments during washing, we can keep the washing temperature as low as possible (30°C).

Powder/liquid detergents based on non-ionic detergents seem preferable for washing clothes at lower temperatures with two advantages: (i) lower energy consumption during the washing process and (ii) lower release of fiber fragments.

What is the impact of the washing machine load and the amount of water on the release of microfibres?

In the washing machine, the garment-to-washing liquid ratio plays a critical role in the emission of fiber fragments. One study found the release of 65 mg of fiber fragments per kg of garment and increases to 125 mg of fiber fragments when the wash water is doubled. The higher volume of water increases the mechanical stress of the garments during the washing process.

We should try to wash with full loads but use an adequate amount of detergent and avoid overfilling the washing machine, because it could negatively impact the cleaning performance and lead to mechanical failure of the appliance.

Does the type of washing machine have an impact on microfibres?

A study on top-loading washing machines that work on the agitator principle (a central pivot that twists the clothes back and forth with the movement and rubs them against itself) release about 9 times more fiber fragments than to front-loading washing machines.

High-efficiency (top-load) washers generate significantly less microfiber shedding than traditional (top-load) washers, likely due to lower water fill volumes and therefore lower water/fabric ratio .

And does drying produce the release of microfibers?

I frammenti di fibra rilasciati durante il processo di lavaggio finiscono nelle acque reflue, mentre i frammenti di fibra rilasciati durante l’utilizzo dell’asciugatrice vengono raccolti sui filtri dell’aria e finiscono nei rifiuti solidi. Alcune delle fibre spezzate durante l’asciugatura sono attaccate in modo lasco alla superficie del tessuto e vengono rilasciate nell’aria quando sono indossate o rilasciate nell’acqua nel successivo processo di lavaggio. Al contrario, l’asciugatura all’aria non influenza significativamente il rilascio di frammenti di fibre.

Normalmente, la temperatura di asciugatura, la velocità di agitazione, il tempo di asciugatura sono i criteri principali che influenzano fortemente il rilascio di frammenti di fibre in un’asciugatrice.

The fiber fragments released during the washing process end up in the wastewater, while the fiber fragments released during the use of the dryer are collected on the air filters and end up in the solid waste. Some of the fibers broken down during drying are loosely attached to the surface of the fabric and are released into the air when worn or released into the water in the subsequent washing process. Conversely, atmospheric or air drying did not significantly affect the release of fiber fragments.

Normally, drying temperature, agitation speed, drying time are the main criteria which strongly influence the release of fiber fragments in a tumble dryer.

The characteristics of the fabric also have an impact.

The generation and release of fiber fragments are influenced by many aspects such as the type of fabric, geometry, yarn, and the entire manufacturing history (spinning, knitting or weaving processes, scouring, bleaching, dyeing , finishing and drying), in addiction to the physico-chemical properties of the fibres. Any factor that improves the physical interactions between fibers in the fabric structure reduces the release of fiber fragments during repeated washing and drying processes.

For example, woven polyester fabric emits higher fiber fragments than knitted polyester fabric.

The mechanical structure of the fibers deteriorates over time due to various parameters including exposure to sunlight, wear and washing. Exposure of fabrics to sunlight can increase the heat and accelerate the oxidation of the fibers and their gradual degradation. In addition to this, the fibers deteriorate due to mechanical stress, repeated washing cycles, abrasion and rubbing during wear, perspiration.

How can we limit the release of microfibers?

L’installazione di filtri per lavatrice per mitigare il problema è una possibile soluzione ma non si ha certezza che la filtrazione sia efficiente al 100%. Così il sacchetto che trattiene le microfibre (Guppy Friend). Si sta considerando la rimozione delle microfibre negli impianti di trattamento delle acque reflue, anche se è impegnativo.

I prodotti tessili dovrebbero essere utilizzati il più a lungo possibile prima che finiscano nelle discariche. La minimizzazione dei rifiuti tessili riduce anche il rilascio di frammenti di fibre dalle discariche. Dovremmo riciclare i tessuti il più possibile e creare dagli scarti tessili nuove fibre con tecniche adeguate.

Relativamente al rilascio di microfibre, i tessuti biologici provenienti da risorse rinnovabili dovrebbero essere preferiti a quelli sintetici a base di petrolio.

Il nostro comportamento di acquisto influenza fortemente la mitigazione dei frammenti di fibra. Gli attuali modelli di consumo portano a danni ambientali ed è necessaria maggiore consapevolezza della possibilità di ridurre dei frammenti di fibra dovuti ai processi di lavaggio domestici. I tessuti devono essere lavati in condizioni più miti con meno agitazione meccanica. Il rilascio di microfibra può essere notevolmente ridotto utilizzando cicli di lavaggio più freddi e più brevi, lavando carichi completi ma non eccessivamente colmi e preferendo lavatrici ad alta efficienza. Tali interventi hanno vantaggi anche sulla cura degli indumenti aumentandone la vita utile con benefici di impatto ambientale più ampi.

Contemporaneamente i brand dovrebbero avere più consapevolezza della mitigazione dei frammenti di fibre rispetto ai tipi di tessuto, fornendo i messaggi di avviso su ogni capo realizzato, scegliendo più consapevolmente i materiali e preferendo metodi di finissaggio e tintura più rispettosi dell’ambiente.

Installing filers  for washing machines is a possible solution to mitigate the problem, but there is no certainty that the filtration is 100% efficient. Thus the bag that holds the microfibers (Guppy Friend)). The removal of microfibers in wastewater treatment plants is being considered, although it is challenging.

Textile products should be used for as long as possible before they end up in landfills. Textile waste minimization also reduces the release of fiber fragments from landfills. We should recycle fabrics as much as possible and create new fibers from textile waste with suitable techniques.

Concerning the release of microfibres, bio-based fabrics from renewable resources should be preferred to oil-based synthetic ones.

Our purchasing behavior strongly influences the mitigation of fiber fragments. Current consumption patterns lead to environmental damage. Greater awareness of the possibility of reducing fiber fragments due to domestic washing processes is then needed. Fabrics should be washed under milder conditions with less mechanical agitation. Microfiber shedding can be significantly reduced by using cooler and shorter wash cycles, washing full but not overly full loads, and preferring high-efficiency washers. These interventions also have advantages on the care of garments, increasing their useful life with wider environmental impact benefits.

At the same time, brands should have more awareness of the mitigation of fiber fragments with respect of the types of fabric, providing warning messages on each garment, choosing materials more consciously and preferring more environmentally friendly finishing and dyeing methods.

*Sources:

Aravin Prince Periyasamy, Ali Tehrani-Bagha, A review on microplastic emission from textile materials and its reduction techniques, March 2022, Department of Bioproducts and Biosystems, School of Chemical Engineering, Aalto University, Finland, Science Direct

Lant et al., Microfiber release from real soiled consumer laundry and the impact of fabric care products and washing conditions, June 2020, Plos One

Photo: Mel Poole; Chris Curry; Moonstarious Project; Engin Akyurt; Chloe Skinner.

Circa il 60% della produzione tessile globale è in poliestere, un materiale sintetico che deriva dal petrolio. Ogni anno sono necessari 70 milioni di barili di petrolio greggio, un’energia non rinnovabile, per la produzione di poliestere. Non solo, il problema di questo tessuto e delle altre tipologie di tessuti sintetici (come spandex, nylon, acrilico, acetato) è il rilascio di microfibre durante i lavaggi in lavatrice. Si stima che ogni capo rilasci 2.000 microfibre plastiche a ogni ciclo di lavaggio. Le microfibre, attraverso i tubi di scarico, arrivano nei nostri fiumi e mari inquinando, danneggiando la fauna acquatica ed entrando nella catena alimentare (per cui probabilmente nell’acqua e nel cibo che ingeriamo).

Sono allo studio soluzioni per fermare il rilascio di microfibre. Fermo restando che ci chiediamo se sia il caso di frenare l’acquisto così frequente di capi in questi tessuti che derivano dal petrolio, resta comunque il problema di lavare ciò che già abbiamo in materiale sintetico o che eventualmente compriamo in negozi di seconda mano. 

Tra le soluzioni disponibili, oltre al sacchetto da inserire in lavatrice (Guppyfriend, ne abbiamo parlato qui e qui), le aziende produttrici di elettrodomestici stanno studiando come inglobare un filtro nei loro prodotti, anche già all’interno del cestello, in modo da fermare il rilascio di microfibre. Xeros tech per esempio offre questo tipo di soluzioni, oltre a dispositivi per contenere il consumo di acqua.

Cambiare però la nostra lavatrice, se ancora funziona, non è ovviamente la soluzione più sostenibile. Ci sono in commercio filtri che è possibile acquistare e collegare, sembra in modo non molto complicato, alla nostra lavatrice. FILTROL (qui  un video illustrativo) e Girlfriend propongono soluzioni per le nostre lavatrici. Per avere un’idea di come si applicano, ecco le Istruzioni per il filtro.

In Europa, Planet Care produce sia filtri per costruttori di elettrodomestici sia per uso casalingo. È possibile acquistarli on line.

Oltre ai filtri, si parla della palla Cora Ball. Inserita nel cestello della lavatrice, raccoglie le nostre microfibre in modo che possiamo vederle e smaltirle correttamente. Cora si muove lentamente durante il lavaggio, proprio come il corallo, consente all’acqua di fluire, raccogliendo quei piccoli pezzi di microfibra e catturandoli nei suoi steli. Un test indipendente che ha esaminato l’efficacia della Cora Ball ha mostrato che cattura il 26% delle microfibre dallo scarico. 

Il 26% non sembra una percentuale significativa, rispetto a quanto indicato riguardo i filtri (80%-90% delle microfibre trattenute), secondo uno studio diffuso da Marine Pollution Bulletin e realizzato da ricercatori dell’Università di Toronto e di Ocean Conservancy. Sembra che i dispositivi possano essere complementari: il filtro cattura le fibre più lunghe, Cora Ball quelle più piccole. Un video mostra un test in cui Cora Ball e Filtrol sono messi a confronto ( anche se il test non è imparziale, effettuato da Filtrol ;).

Altri studi interessanti sono in cantiere e monitoriamo le novità, in attesa di conoscere ulteriori passi avanti nella ricerca per garantire di non inquinare più con il lavaggio dei nostri capi sintetici. Nel frattempo, vi riportiamo qualche consiglio per limitare il fenomeno nei nostri lavaggi (seguendo qualche suggerimento di Ocean Clean Wash):

• Utilizza la lavatrice a pieno carico, perché comporta meno attrito tra i vestiti, quindi un rilascio inferiore di fibre.
• Preferisci il detersivo liquido a quello in polvere: lo”strofinamento” dei granuli ha come risultato l’allentamento delle fibre dei vestiti più che del liquido.
• Lava a basse a temperature: quando i capi vengono lavati ad alta temperatura alcuni tessuti si danneggiano, causando maggior rilascio di fibre.
• Lava in lavatrice quando necessario: alcune volte, anche in caso di macchie, può essere sufficiente il lavaggio a mano.
• Evita lunghi lavaggi: causano più attrito tra i tessuti, il che suppone un maggiore distaccamento delle fibre.
• Evita la candeggina: rompe più velocemente le fibre.
• Meglio la centrifuga a bassi regimi: i giri più alti aumentano l’attrito tra gli indumenti, con il risultato di maggiori possibilità di rilascio delle fibre.
• Evita di comprare vestiti sintetici preferendo tessuti naturali.

English: How to reduce the release of plastic microfibres when we do our laundry in the washing machine?

About 60% of global textile production is made of polyester, a synthetic material derived from oil. Every year 70 million barrels of crude oil, a non-renewable energy, are required for polyester production. Not only that, the problem with this fabric and other types of synthetic fabrics (such as spandex, nylon, acrylic, acetate) is the release of microfibres during machine washing. It is estimated that each garment releases 2,000 plastic microfibres at each wash cycle. Microfibres, through exhaust pipes, arrive in our rivers and seas polluting, damaging aquatic fauna and entering the food chain (so probably in the water and food we ingest).

Solutions are being studied to stop the release of microfibres. Notwithstanding that we are wondering if it is the case to stop the so frequent purchase of garments in these fabrics that derive from oil, it still remains the problem of washing what we already have in synthetic material or that we eventually buy in second-hand shops.

Among the available solutions, in addition to the bag to insert in the washing machine (Guppyfriend, we talked about it here and here), the appliance manufacturers are studying how to incorporate a filter into their products, even already inside the basket, in order to stop the release of microfibres. Xeros tech , for example, offers this type of solutions, as well as devices to contain water consumption.

But changing our washing machine, if it still works, is obviously not the most sustainable solution. There are filters on the market that you can buy and connect, it seems not in a so complicated way, to our washing machine. FILTROL  (here an  illustrative video) and Girlfriend propose solutions for our washing machines. To get an idea of ​​how to use them, here are the Filter instructions.

In Europe, Planet Care  produces both filters for industrial use and for home one. You can buy them online.

In addition to the filters, Cora Ball is often mentioned. Inserted into the drum of the washing machine, it collects our microfibres so that we can see them and dispose of them correctly. Cora moves slowly during washing, just like coral, allowing water to flow, collecting those small pieces of microfibre and capturing them in its stems. An independent test that examined the effectiveness of the Cora Ball showed that it captures 26% of the microfibers from the drain.

26% do not appear to be a significant percentage, compared to what was indicated with regard to filters (80% -90% of microfibers withheld), according to a study published by Marine Pollution Bulletin and carried out by researchers from the University of Toronto and Ocean Conservancy. It seems that the devices can be complementary: the filter captures the longest fibers, the Cora Ball the smaller ones. A video shows a test in which Cora Ball and Filtrol are compared (even if the test is not impartial, carried out by Filtrol;).

Other interesting studies are in the pipeline and we are monitoring the news, waiting to learn more progress in research to ensure that we no longer pollute with our synthetic garments. In the meantime, we give you some tips to limit the phenomenon in our washes (following few suggestions from the Ocean Clean Wash):

• Use the washing machine at full load, because it involves less friction between the clothes, therefore a lower release of fibres.
• Prefer the liquid detergent to the powdered one: the “rubbing” of the granules results in the loosening of the fibres of the clothes more than with the liquid detergent.
• Prefer low temperature washing: when the clothes are washed at high temperature some fabrics are damaged, causing greater fibre release.
• Wash in the washing machine when necessary: ​​sometimes, even in the case of stains, hand washing may be sufficient.
• Avoid long washes: they cause more friction between the tissues, which supposes a greater detachment of the fibres.
• Avoid bleach: it breaks the fibres faster.
• Dry spin clothes at low speed: the higher revolutions increase the friction between the garments, with the result of greater possibilities of fibre release.
• Avoid buying synthetic clothes preferring natural fabrics.

Uno studio dell’Università Heriot-Watt ha misurato la quantità di plastica contenuta nei pasti serali in alcune abitazioni del Regno Unito. Il risultato? 114 fibre di plastica mediamente in un piatto.
L’esperimento era nato con l’intenzione di verificare la quantità di plastica nelle cozze consumate nei pasti casalinghi. Una delle evidenze emerse: mediamente una persona può consumare 100 particelle di plastica all’anno mangiando i molluschi. Ingerirà invece tra le 13mila e le 68mila fibre in un anno attraverso i pasti per via delle polveri domestiche!

I ricercatori ipotizzano che sui piatti si depositino polveri da arredamento in tessuto e da stoffe sintetiche, non tanto dal cibo. Le stesse polveri non sono solo ingerite ma anche respirate.
Possono provenire da pneumatici, tappeti, arredamento in tessuto e anche dagli abiti come le giacche di pile e altri indumenti sintetici.

Sono di certo interessanti e necessari a questo punto studi di approfondimento per capire meglio il fenomeno dell’inquinamento dalla plastica e gli effetti sulla salute dell’uomo.

Dress Ecode si impegna fortemente nel promuovere una scelta di tessuti e indumenti più sostenibili, per ridurre le conseguenze dannose sull’ambiente e sulla salute.

(Fonte: studio università Heriot-Watt, disponibile qui: https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0269749117344445?_rdoc=1&_fmt=high&_origin=gateway&_docanchor=&md5=b8429449ccfc9c30159a5f9aeaa92ffb)

ENGLISH
A Heriot-Watt University study has measured the amount of plastics in dinner meals at some UK houses. The result? 114 plastic fibres on average in a meal.
The test was defined with the purpose of verifying the amount of plastics in mussels consumed in household meals. One of the evidences: a person can consume on average 100 plastic particles a year eating shellfishes. He will instead eat between 13,000 and 68,000 fibres a year during his meals due to household dusts!

It is estimated by the researchers that dusts from soft furnishings and synthetic fabrics settle on the dishes, not coming mainly from food. The same dusts are also breathed.
They can come from car tires, carpets, soft furnishings and also from clothes such as fleece jackets and other synthetic garment.

More detailed studies are of course interesting and necessary at this point in order to better understand the plastic pollution phenomena and its effects on human health.

Dress Ecode is strongly engaged in promoting a choice of more sustainable clothes and fabrics, with the purpose of reducing the damaging consequences on the environment and the health.

(Source: a Heriot-Watt University study, available here: https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0269749117344445?_rdoc=1&_fmt=high&_origin=gateway&_docanchor=&md5=b8429449ccfc9c30159a5f9aeaa92ffb)

Marianna D’Amico Jauregui ha provato il sacchetto che trattiene le microfibre (GuppyFriend)  in lavatrice ed ecco la foto di quanto rilasciato durante il lavaggio. Dai tessuti sintetici si staccano a ogni ciclo circa 700.000 fibre microplastiche. Utilizzando il sacchetto riusciamo a catturarle (vanno in seguito smaltite nell’indifferenziata, non pulendo il sacchetto nel lavandino).
Grazie Marianna per la foto!

Qui un interessante articolo di Terranuova:
https://www.terranuova.it/…/Lavi-in-lavatrice-Scarichi-mili…
“Tra tutte le microplastiche primarie (quelle che non si formano dalla decomposizione dei rifiuti) che finiscono in mare, il 35% è rappresentato dalle microfibre dei tessuti sintetici. Tra i tessuti sotto accusa ci sono l’acrilico (PC) e il poliestere (PL).
GLI ABITI SCARICANO OGNI ANNO MEZZO MILIONE DI TONNELLATE di microfibre negli oceani. Una quantità pari a oltre 50 MILIARDI DI BOTTIGLIE di plastica”.

( Qui il nostro post sul sacchetto che trattiene le microfibre).

English:

Marianna D’Amico Jauregui has tried the bag retaining microfibres (GuppyFriend)  in the washing machine and here it is the picture of what has been released during the washing cycle.  From synthetic fabrics about 700,000 micro plastic fibres come off during a washing cycle. Using the bag we can catch them (they have to be disposed in mixed waste, not cleaning the bag in the sink).
Thank Marianna for the picture!

Here it is  an interesting article of Terranuova: https://www.terranuova.it/…/Lavi-in-lavatrice-Scarichi-mili…
“Of all the primary micro plastics (the ones not coming from the waste decomposition) ending into the sea, 35% are microfibres of synthetic fabrics. Of all fabrics on trial there are acrylic (PC) and polyester (PL).
CLOTHES RELEASE HALF MILLION TONS of microfibres into the ocean every year. An amount equal to 50 BILLIONS OF PLASTIC BOTTLES.

( Here you can find our post on the washing bag retaining microfibres).