The results of the “Spinning Greenwash” study

The Changing Markets Foundation, a nonprofit organization working on environmental sustainability, commissioned research from the Microplastic Research Group at Çukurova University (Turkey) to compare the release of microplastics between recycled and virgin polyester fabrics. The results reveal a surprising and worrying situation:
The recycled polyester garments tested released an average of approximately 55% more microfibers than those made from virgin polyester during wash cycles.

In terms of average quantity, the study recorded approximately 12,430 microfibers per gram in recycled fabrics, compared to 8,028 microfibers per gram in virgin polyester.

The microfibers released from recycled fabrics are smaller—with an average length of approximately 0.42 mm versus 0.52 mm—making them more easily dispersed and potentially more harmful to ecosystems and human health.

The 51 items analyzed came from five major fashion brands — Adidas, H&M, Nike, Shein, and Zara — and included items such as t-shirts, tops, dresses, and shorts.

What does this mean for the environment?

Microplastics are a globally recognized environmental problem: they are found in soil, waterways, and oceans, but also in living organisms, including human tissue, and are associated with potentially adverse effects on biological systems.

A single wash cycle can release hundreds of thousands of microfibers into wastewater, which treatment systems struggle to fully filter, allowing these particles to enter the environmental and food chains.

Where do all those tiny microfibers end up?

The answer is everywhere. Not just in the seas and rivers, but also in the air we breathe, in the soil of our fields, in the most remote sediments, even in the organic tissues of living beings. According to an Italian report on micro and nanoplastics in the human body (Vera Studio 2024), synthetic textiles are among the most significant sources of microplastics linked to home laundry processes, and certain technical steps like pre-washing can release far greater quantities of microfibers than simple washing and rinsing.

This is the reality: what we wear, wash, and use every day comes into contact with environments we can no longer separate from our daily lives. Yet, amid this scientific reality, some marketing narratives remain reassuring. The Changing Markets Foundation uses a powerful symbolic image to describe many companies’ communications: it calls it a “sustainability fig leaf,” a fig leaf that covers a deep dependence on synthetic materials without properly addressing the problem of microplastics (The Ecologist). And the message comes from an authoritative voice: Urska Trunk, senior campaign manager at Changing Markets, told The Ecologist very clearly that “fashion has sold recycled polyester as a green solution, yet our findings show it exacerbates the problem of microplastic pollution.”

Why is this phrase so important? Because it directly challenges the core of the global textile industry’s green narrative. It’s not about demonizing recycling—but about highlighting the fact that sustainability cannot be a superficial promise, based on catchy claims, if products continue to release significant amounts of microplastics.

And this awareness isn’t just for scientists or environmentalists. It’s about us, our consumption, our washing habits, and, ultimately, the future of our communities and the planet we inhabit.

Why does recycled material release more microplastics?

According to the authors of the Changing Markets study, the difference can be traced back to the structural characteristics of recycled fibers. During recycling processes—both mechanical and chemical—the polyester polymer chains shorten and weaken, making the fibers more fragile and prone to breakage. This leads to a greater release of microfibers during use and washing.

Labeling and transparency: another critical issue

The Changing Markets study also found discrepancies in brand claims: some garments advertised as being made from recycled polyester exhibited shedding behavior similar to that of virgin fabrics. In some cases, online labels and descriptions did not match the fiber information physically displayed on the garments, raising concerns about potentially misleading marketing practices.

What Other Research Says

In addition to the Changing Markets Foundation study, other scientific research is helping to clarify the situation, showing that recycled polyester is not automatically a better solution in terms of microfiber release. A study published in Environmental Pollution in 2024 found that, during home washing, recycled polyester garments can release more microfibers than virgin polyester ones, likely due to the lower mechanical strength of fibers subjected to recycling and heat treatments. Analyses conducted by The Microfibre Consortium confirm this trend in several cases, indicating, in some samples, a release of up to twice as many microfibers, often finer in size and therefore potentially more impactful on ecosystems and the food chain. However, the data also show strong variability: fabric structure, yarn type, production processes, and washing conditions significantly influence the results, with some tests showing less marked differences between virgin and recycled materials.

Overall, the scientific literature converges on one key point: polyester recycling reduces upstream plastic waste, but it does not solve—and can sometimes exacerbate—the problem of microplastic dispersion, confirming the need for a broader approach that includes material innovation, responsible textile design, and strategies to overall reduce the amount of synthetic fibers in circulation.

Microfibers and the Fabric Life Cycle: Beyond Home Washing

When discussing microplastics and microfibers, the common debate often focuses on release during home washing. However, recent research highlights that several stages of textile production are also significant sources of microfiber emissions. A study published in Scientific Reports monitored microfiber emissions in a large textile manufacturing plant and found that wet processing—such as dyeing and finishing—can release up to 25 times more microfibers than home washing cycles, with dyeing accounting for over 95% of emissions under some conditions. These findings suggest that the environmental impact of textiles is not reduced simply by changing the type of fiber (virgin or recycled), but requires optimization and mitigation from the earliest stages of production, for example, through lower dyeing temperatures, shorter process times, and the use of yarns and textile structures that minimize fiber shedding.

How Garment Care and Design Influence Microfiber Release

The amount of microfibers released from a garment depends not only on the material, but also on manufacturing techniques and care conditions. Different cutting and sewing methods, as well as washing conditions, can significantly influence the release of microplastics into the environment. Research published in Science of the Total Environment (2023, R Rathinamoorthy, S Raja Balasaraswathi) demonstrated that the use of more advanced cutting techniques such as laser or ultrasonic cutting can reduce microfiber release by up to 15–20 times compared to traditional scissors, while choosing specific stitch patterns and stitch densities can further reduce fraying. The use of multiple needles increases the release of microfibers across different variations of the same stitch pattern. For example, a 45.27% increase in microfiber release was reported with the 4-thread (2-needle) overlock stitch compared to the 3-thread (1-needle) stitch.

Furthermore, studies conducted on actual laundry loads (Science of the Total Environment, 2023, R Rathinamoorthy, S Raja Balasaraswathi) indicate that parameters such as temperature and cycle length influence the amount of microfibers released, with shorter, colder cycles, full loads, and high-efficiency washing machines reducing release. These findings highlight how changes in garment design and household care practices can help reduce microplastic shedding, complementing efforts to develop more sustainable materials.

An illusory solution or an intermediate step?

The findings of the Changing Markets study do not imply that all recycled materials are useless or that recycling has no value. Rather, they highlight a critical point: reducing environmental impact cannot be solely achieved by transitioning to “recycled” materials if they continue to release significant microplastics.

In other words, if the goal is a truly sustainable textile system, it is necessary to consider:

• design strategies that minimize the release of microfibers (e.g., low-release yarns, more compact textile structures, and less degrading finishes);
• technologies for capturing microfibers in domestic and industrial washing processes;
• an overall reduction in reliance on synthetic fibers—recycled or otherwise—in favor of alternative materials with a lower microplastic impact.

What we can do, concretely

For brands
• design garments with low-linting yarns and more compact structures;
• improve industrial processes, especially dyeing and finishing;
• adopt less fraying cutting and sewing techniques;
• communicate clearly and verifiably;
• invest in microfiber-capturing technologies in industrial laundries and supply chains.

For fashion buyers and consumers
• wash at low temperatures and shorter cycles;
• prefer full loads;
• use more efficient washing machines when possible;
• consider using certified filters or microfiber-capturing devices;
• above all: reduce dependence on fast fashion and synthetics, even recycled ones.
It’s not “buying nothing anymore.”
It’s buying better, less, more consciously.

Toward a broader vision of sustainability

This research is part of a broader debate on sustainability strategies in the fashion industry, which requires integrated and transparent approaches. It’s not just about replacing raw material A with B, but about rethinking production, consumption, and end-of-life models of garments with a truly circular perspective.
For consumers and industry professionals, the study is an invitation to look beyond “recycled” labels and evaluate concrete, independent data to make choices that truly make a difference.

What are microfibres? What size are they?

“Microfibre” is a consolidated term in the textile industry to indicate fibers between 10 and 30 μm. The term “microfibers” is also used to indicate the fibrous material released during washing. It has been proposed to differentiate the term by calling these materials ‘fragments of fibres’, i.e. the fragments of fibers between 1 μm and 5 mm in size released from clothing and home textiles during washing, drying and use.

Therefore, “microfibres” in the textile industry actually indicates fibers between 10 and 30 micrometres, while what is released by clothing and home textiles is more correctly defined as a fragment of fibers and has dimensions between 1 μm and 5 millimetres.

What are microplastics?

Microplastics are fragments of synthetic fibers. Primary microplastic is released directly into the environment in the form of small plastic particles (less than 5mm in size) which include fiber fragments released during the domestic washing process. Other sources for primary microplastics include road markings, tire wear, marine coating and cosmetics. Secondary microplastics are the by-products of the natural erosion of larger plastic objects released into the environment.

Multiple steps in wastewater treatment plants can filter out up to 95% of fiber fragments. However, the remaining 5% of fiber fragments can end up in rivers and oceans and enter the food chain through:

• table salt;
• contaminated water;
• ingestion of marine creatures

causing adverse health effects.

They are not only a risk to our health, but also to that of marine creatures, threatening the functioning of their metabolic activities.

Additionally, fiber fragments can also impact health through inhalation (outdoor and indoor) and direct skin contact through personal care products, textiles, or indoor dust.

Where do fiber fragments mainly come from?

• From domestic washing of clothes
• From waste generated during textile production
• From discarded textiles
• From landfills near rivers and
• From domestic drainage

Considering domestic washing, how many microfibers are released?

The release of fiber fragments during washing varies from 100 to 300 mg per kg of washed fabric. So for a 7 kg washing machine load, it will range between 700 and 2100 mg in total. Making some estimates on a typical washing scheme (times, frequency, quantity) in developed countries, assuming that it is adopted in these countries by 1 billion people to wash their clothes, 14,400,000 kg of fragments of fibers is released to the environment every year. Any process that reduces fiber strength, including sanding, brushing, bleaching, has the potential to increase the release of fiber fragments in consecutive wet processes.

Various important parameters affect the release of fragments from textile fibers including type of fabric, weave/knit structure,  type and concentration of the detergent, temperature, pH, spin-speed of the spin cycle, duration of washing and processes drying.

Let’s consider for example he type of fiber.

The fiber fragments in the marine environment are classified as natural, cellulosic man-made and synthetic. The concentration of natural and cellulosic fiber fragments in the ocean is much higher than synthetic fiber fragments. Fabrics made from cotton and other cellulosic materials release more fiber fragments during the washing process than polyester fabrics. However, cotton, wool, silk and man-made cellulosic fibers such as bamboo, modal, tencel/lyocell are biodegradable compared to thermoplastic fibers in the marine environment. Polyester fibers are considered a greater threat to the environment than cotton because they have an extremely low biodegradation rate.

In general, natural and man-made cellulosic fibers degrade easily, however, the presence of dyes and chemicals for finishing the fabrics can reduce the biodegradation rate.

Most textile products are treated with various synthetic dyes. The presence of these chemicals can complicate the biodegradation of even natural fibers such as cotton.

In general, various functional additives have been applied to fibers of cellulose origin such as crease recovery, water/soil repellent, flame retardant, antimicrobial, and softeners. When fiber fragments are released into the marine environment, these chemicals and dyes integrate with the fiber fragment to create additional health hazards for aquatic creatures.

Let’s consider another variable, the detergent. How do they affect the release of microfibers?

There are conflicting studies. Some show that the use of detergent promotes the emission of fiber fragments compared to washing with water only. Others that the use of the cleaner has no significant impact on the release of microfiber. The apparent contradiction in the results is likely driven by differences in testing methodology (some studies use clean, often new or artificially aged, and homogenous wash loads of garments including one or a few garment types; others measure the release from solid consumer laundry).

Powder or liquid? Powder detergent generates a higher emission than liquid detergent. Powder detergents contain an inorganic component called zeolite, which is insoluble in water and causes more friction between the clothes and the washing machine with a higher chance of producing fiber fragments.

However, the chemical formulation of the detergent matters, whether it’s liquid or powder.

Generally, nonionic surfactant-containing detergent is easily soluble in water and works very well in hard water, but is more expensive than anionic surfactant.

The detergent industry uses various enzymes to speed up the washing process. These products are more expensive, good for washing and stain removal; according to some studies they attenuate the fiber fragments more during washing, according to others they increase the release.

Furthermore, the research results also show a significant reduction in the release of microfibre after the first cycles.

If what emerges from the various studies on the impact of detergent does not seem to give certainties, it is instead evident how much the temperature and quantity of water affect it.

How does the water temperature affect the microfibre release?

The release of fiber fragments increases with increasing washing temperature.

In some cases, a higher level of fiber fragments is released during the washing process at higher temperatures even without the addition of detergent or fabric softener.

To reduce the release of fiber fragments during washing, we can keep the washing temperature as low as possible (30°C).

Powder/liquid detergents based on non-ionic detergents seem preferable for washing clothes at lower temperatures with two advantages: (i) lower energy consumption during the washing process and (ii) lower release of fiber fragments.

What is the impact of the washing machine load and the amount of water on the release of microfibres?

In the washing machine, the garment-to-washing liquid ratio plays a critical role in the emission of fiber fragments. One study found the release of 65 mg of fiber fragments per kg of garment and increases to 125 mg of fiber fragments when the wash water is doubled. The higher volume of water increases the mechanical stress of the garments during the washing process.

We should try to wash with full loads but use an adequate amount of detergent and avoid overfilling the washing machine, because it could negatively impact the cleaning performance and lead to mechanical failure of the appliance.

Does the type of washing machine have an impact on microfibres?

A study on top-loading washing machines that work on the agitator principle (a central pivot that twists the clothes back and forth with the movement and rubs them against itself) release about 9 times more fiber fragments than to front-loading washing machines.

High-efficiency (top-load) washers generate significantly less microfiber shedding than traditional (top-load) washers, likely due to lower water fill volumes and therefore lower water/fabric ratio .

And does drying produce the release of microfibers?

I frammenti di fibra rilasciati durante il processo di lavaggio finiscono nelle acque reflue, mentre i frammenti di fibra rilasciati durante l’utilizzo dell’asciugatrice vengono raccolti sui filtri dell’aria e finiscono nei rifiuti solidi. Alcune delle fibre spezzate durante l’asciugatura sono attaccate in modo lasco alla superficie del tessuto e vengono rilasciate nell’aria quando sono indossate o rilasciate nell’acqua nel successivo processo di lavaggio. Al contrario, l’asciugatura all’aria non influenza significativamente il rilascio di frammenti di fibre.

Normalmente, la temperatura di asciugatura, la velocità di agitazione, il tempo di asciugatura sono i criteri principali che influenzano fortemente il rilascio di frammenti di fibre in un’asciugatrice.

The fiber fragments released during the washing process end up in the wastewater, while the fiber fragments released during the use of the dryer are collected on the air filters and end up in the solid waste. Some of the fibers broken down during drying are loosely attached to the surface of the fabric and are released into the air when worn or released into the water in the subsequent washing process. Conversely, atmospheric or air drying did not significantly affect the release of fiber fragments.

Normally, drying temperature, agitation speed, drying time are the main criteria which strongly influence the release of fiber fragments in a tumble dryer.

The characteristics of the fabric also have an impact.

The generation and release of fiber fragments are influenced by many aspects such as the type of fabric, geometry, yarn, and the entire manufacturing history (spinning, knitting or weaving processes, scouring, bleaching, dyeing , finishing and drying), in addiction to the physico-chemical properties of the fibres. Any factor that improves the physical interactions between fibers in the fabric structure reduces the release of fiber fragments during repeated washing and drying processes.

For example, woven polyester fabric emits higher fiber fragments than knitted polyester fabric.

The mechanical structure of the fibers deteriorates over time due to various parameters including exposure to sunlight, wear and washing. Exposure of fabrics to sunlight can increase the heat and accelerate the oxidation of the fibers and their gradual degradation. In addition to this, the fibers deteriorate due to mechanical stress, repeated washing cycles, abrasion and rubbing during wear, perspiration.

How can we limit the release of microfibers?

L’installazione di filtri per lavatrice per mitigare il problema è una possibile soluzione ma non si ha certezza che la filtrazione sia efficiente al 100%. Così il sacchetto che trattiene le microfibre (Guppy Friend). Si sta considerando la rimozione delle microfibre negli impianti di trattamento delle acque reflue, anche se è impegnativo.

I prodotti tessili dovrebbero essere utilizzati il più a lungo possibile prima che finiscano nelle discariche. La minimizzazione dei rifiuti tessili riduce anche il rilascio di frammenti di fibre dalle discariche. Dovremmo riciclare i tessuti il più possibile e creare dagli scarti tessili nuove fibre con tecniche adeguate.

Relativamente al rilascio di microfibre, i tessuti biologici provenienti da risorse rinnovabili dovrebbero essere preferiti a quelli sintetici a base di petrolio.

Il nostro comportamento di acquisto influenza fortemente la mitigazione dei frammenti di fibra. Gli attuali modelli di consumo portano a danni ambientali ed è necessaria maggiore consapevolezza della possibilità di ridurre dei frammenti di fibra dovuti ai processi di lavaggio domestici. I tessuti devono essere lavati in condizioni più miti con meno agitazione meccanica. Il rilascio di microfibra può essere notevolmente ridotto utilizzando cicli di lavaggio più freddi e più brevi, lavando carichi completi ma non eccessivamente colmi e preferendo lavatrici ad alta efficienza. Tali interventi hanno vantaggi anche sulla cura degli indumenti aumentandone la vita utile con benefici di impatto ambientale più ampi.

Contemporaneamente i brand dovrebbero avere più consapevolezza della mitigazione dei frammenti di fibre rispetto ai tipi di tessuto, fornendo i messaggi di avviso su ogni capo realizzato, scegliendo più consapevolmente i materiali e preferendo metodi di finissaggio e tintura più rispettosi dell’ambiente.

Installing filers  for washing machines is a possible solution to mitigate the problem, but there is no certainty that the filtration is 100% efficient. Thus the bag that holds the microfibers (Guppy Friend)). The removal of microfibers in wastewater treatment plants is being considered, although it is challenging.

Textile products should be used for as long as possible before they end up in landfills. Textile waste minimization also reduces the release of fiber fragments from landfills. We should recycle fabrics as much as possible and create new fibers from textile waste with suitable techniques.

Concerning the release of microfibres, bio-based fabrics from renewable resources should be preferred to oil-based synthetic ones.

Our purchasing behavior strongly influences the mitigation of fiber fragments. Current consumption patterns lead to environmental damage. Greater awareness of the possibility of reducing fiber fragments due to domestic washing processes is then needed. Fabrics should be washed under milder conditions with less mechanical agitation. Microfiber shedding can be significantly reduced by using cooler and shorter wash cycles, washing full but not overly full loads, and preferring high-efficiency washers. These interventions also have advantages on the care of garments, increasing their useful life with wider environmental impact benefits.

At the same time, brands should have more awareness of the mitigation of fiber fragments with respect of the types of fabric, providing warning messages on each garment, choosing materials more consciously and preferring more environmentally friendly finishing and dyeing methods.

*Sources:

Aravin Prince Periyasamy, Ali Tehrani-Bagha, A review on microplastic emission from textile materials and its reduction techniques, March 2022, Department of Bioproducts and Biosystems, School of Chemical Engineering, Aalto University, Finland, Science Direct

Lant et al., Microfiber release from real soiled consumer laundry and the impact of fabric care products and washing conditions, June 2020, Plos One

Photo: Mel Poole; Chris Curry; Moonstarious Project; Engin Akyurt; Chloe Skinner.

Puoi ascoltare qui l’articolo: Audio-à-porter – Fermiamo le microplastiche

“L’attuale situazione dei mari e degli oceani impone misure drastiche nelle scelte di TUTTI i materiali introdotti intenzionalmente nel metabolismo del pianeta, più specificamente nel sistema acquatico. Non averlo preso in considerazione in passato ha portato alla reale situazione inaccettabile“.

Ecobiocontrol lancia un appello a ECHA, chiedendo a tutti noi di diffonderlo, per richiedere maggiore severità nell’approvvigionamento e nelle tecnologie di produzione di particelle solide solubili e insolubili per cosmetici e detergenti. Fabrizio Zago (esperto di detergenza ecologica scientifica, consulente Ecolabel per la UE) con la collaborazione di Peter Malaise e Fabio Corradini ha redatto un testo che descrive la posizione di Ecobiocontrol in merito alle microplastiche. “La società umana non può più accettare il continuo rilascio nell’ambiente globale di microparticelle ‘aggiunte intenzionalmente’, che siano nel sistema acquatico o come rifiuto solido o in qualsiasi altra forma, quando queste microparticelle non rispondano a criteri rigidi”.

L’ECHA (Agenzia europea delle sostanze chimiche) ha elaborato una proposta che è molto indulgente nei confronti di queste particelle nonché sul tempo di transizione verso soluzioni migliori. Ecobiocontrol spiega che sicuramente è possibile sostituire i materiali esistenti che sono un peso per l’ambiente con altri. Tuttavia, per arrivare a vere soluzioni alla situazione attuale, il metabolismo sofferente della natura vivente dovrebbe essere preso come punto di partenza.

Ulteriori punti di discussione riguardano i molti metodi di analisi per valutare la biodegradabilità di un certo prodotto, che non sono adatti alle microplastiche (così sfuggenti dai filtri, spesso insolubili) e c’è anche differenza di definizione di questi composti. 

Altre richieste importanti nell’appello sono di evitare il più possibile l’uso e quindi l’emissione in ambiente di queste sostanze e che ci sia grande chiarezza sui prodotti nello scaffale, scrivendo in etichetta se un prodotto si avvale di queste sostanze non sostenibili.

Ecobiocontrol (https://www.ecobiocontrol.bio/) è il portale di Fabrizio Zago, che da quasi due decenni ha un ruolo di orientamento verso acquisti di detergenti e di cosmetici rispettosi del principio di sostenibilità, un vero proprio punto di riferimento su base scientifica. È un luogo di discussione e anche uno strumento con cui confrontare le formulazioni di detergenti per la casa e cosmetici, attraverso l’Ecobiocontrol dizionario.

Qui sotto il link al testo che illustra la posizione di Ecobiocontrol sul tema delle microplastiche:

https://www.ecobiocontrol.bio/magazine/microplastiche-posizione-ecobiocontrol/

Contiamo sul vostro aiuto per far circolare questo appello. Grazie!

(Photo by Amplitude Magazin on Unsplash)

English – Stop the microplastics: the appeal of Ecobiocontrol to ECHA (European chemical agency) to protect us and the environment

“The actual predicament of seas and oceans dictates drastic measures in the choices of ALL materials intentionally introduced in the planet’s metabolism, more specifically in the aquatic system. Not having taken this in consideration in the past lead to the actual unacceptable situation“.

Ecobiocontrol launches an appeal to ECHA, asking all of us to spread it, to request more strictness on the sourcing and the production technologies of soluble and insoluble solid particles for cosmetics and detergents. Fabrizio Zago (scientific ecological detergent expert, Ecolabel consultant for the EU) with the collaboration of Peter Malaise and Fabio Corradini has written a text that describes the position of Ecobiocontrol with regard to microplastics”. “Human society can not by any means further accept the continuous release of ‘intentionally added’ microparticles in the global environment, be it in the water system, as solid waste or in any other form, when these microparticles do not respond to strict criteria”.

ECHA (European chemicals agency) has developed a proposal that is very lenient towards these particles as well as on the transition time to better solutions. Ecobiocontrol explains that surely it is possible to replace existing materials that are a burden to the environment with others. However, to arrive at real solutions to the current situation, the suffering metabolism of living nature should be taken as a starting point.

Further points of discussion concern the many methods of analysis to assess the biodegradability of a certain product, which are not suitable for microplastics (so elusive from filters, often insoluble) and there is also a difference in the definition of these compounds.

Other important requests in the appeal are to avoid as much as possible the use and therefore the release into the environment of these substances and to have a great clarity on the products on the shelf, writing on the label if a product uses these unsustainable substances.

Ecobiocontrol (https://www.ecobiocontrol.bio/) is the portal of Fabrizio Zago, which for almost two decades has a role of orientation towards the purchase of detergents and cosmetics respecting the principle of sustainability, a true point of reference on scientific basis. It is a place for discussion and also a tool with which to compare the formulations of detergents for the home and cosmetics, through the Ecobiocontrol dictionary.

Below the link to the text illustrating Ecobiocontrol’s position on the topic of microplastics:

https://www.ecobiocontrol.bio/magazine/microplastiche-posizione-ecobiocontrol/

We count on your help to circulate this appeal. Thank you!

(Photo by Amplitude Magazin on Unsplash)