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T-rex Leather: Reality or Science Fiction?

dressecode — Tue, 26 Aug 2025 14:41:14 +0000

A project launched in 2025 has given life to Elemental X, a material dubbed “T-rex leather” because it is inspired by reconstructed DNA fragments of a Tyrannosaurus rex. This unusual material, designed to be a more sustainable alternative to animal leather, was developed by Lab-Grown Leather Ltd, in collaboration with the creative agency VML and The Organoid Company.

What It Is and How It’s Made

At the core of this material lies fossil collagen, a protein that—though only in traces—has survived millions of years inside dinosaur bones. Scientists don’t have complete dinosaur DNA, but they use these fragments as a blueprint to design and reconstruct protein sequences reminiscent of the originals.

These sequences are optimized and then inserted into living cells, cultivated and engineered in the laboratory by The Organoid Company. This way, the cells become tiny “biological factories,” capable of producing a self-organizing matrix that resembles natural skin.

The next step happens thanks to ATEP, a proprietary platform developed by Lab-Grown Leather. Unlike other processes, ATEP requires no artificial scaffolds or chemical additives: the cells organize themselves, building the structure naturally until they replicate the strength and composition of animal leather.

The result is a material that can legitimately be called leather—only grown entirely in a lab. It is biodegradable, cruelty-free, and plastic-free, with properties comparable to traditional leather: touch, smell, and durability.

Environmental and Ethical Benefit

Zero animal deforestation: No livestock farming, which means reduced land use, water waste, and methane emissions.
No toxic tanning chemicals: It eliminates harmful tanning agents such as chromium.
Traceability and transparency: Thanks to an engineered process ready for blockchain applications.

How “T-rex Leather” Is Made – Explained Simply

Imagine scientists find a tiny piece of fossil collagen, a protein that once formed part of a T-rex’s bones. It’s not full DNA, but more like a clue, a puzzle piece.

They study that piece to understand how the protein was built.
On a computer, they design a modern, simplified version of it—similar to the original but functional today.
They take a living cell (a kind of mini-biological lab) and teach it to produce this protein.
The cells are grown in a controlled environment—like a greenhouse for cells.
The cells join together on their own, like LEGO bricks, creating a sheet that looks and feels like real skin: elastic, resistant, leather-like.
Finally, the skin is dried, finished, and dyed. Unlike conventional tanning, it doesn’t use chromium or harsh chemicals. (The company doesn’t disclose full details, but states that sustainable methods compatible with biodegradability are used.)

Conclusions

Elemental X is inspired by the T-rex, but it doesn’t actually use dinosaur skin. It grows leather in the lab by programming cells to act like tiny natural factories. The result is real leather—without animals, without plastics, and with lower environmental impact.

The so-called “T-rex leather” is more of a scientific and creative provocation, blending biotech, marketing, and sustainable research. It is not dinosaur leather, but rather an innovative lab-grown material inspired by fossil protein structures.

The promise is compelling: a biodegradable, cruelty-free, plastic-free, high-performance leather that could rival animal leather in luxury and beyond. But as with any new technology, there are limitations:

Costs remain high, and mass production is still experimental.
Transparency about certain technical details (like finishing processes) is limited.
The T-rex label fascinates but risks overshadowing the true value of the material with a “pop” story.

For those working in ethical and sustainable fashion, like Dress ECOde, it’s worth watching closely. Not everything new is automatically green—but understanding what’s behind innovative materials is the first step to making informed choices.

Want to stay updated on the next frontiers of sustainable fashion? Subscribe to Dress ECOde’s free monthly e-magazine! Each month, straight to your inbox: insights, news, events, and tools for dressing with awareness.

Photos: Lab Grown Leather

Fashion brands linked to deforestation in Amazonia

dressecode — Fri, 14 Jan 2022 08:40:55 +0000

Stand.Earth has recently published a research on the link between the fashion industry and the destruction of the Amazon rainforest. Using public and government data, the survey shows how the supply of leather from fashion brands represents an existential climate risk for the world, the Amazon rainforest and indigenous communities.

The cattle industry is linked to the availability of forests. A World Resources Institute’s study found that from 2001 to 2015 cattle was responsible for 36% of global tree cover loss. Cattle replaced nearly double the forest area of all other assets combined (soy, palm oil, rubber, coconut, coffee, wood fiber).

By analyzing the tracking of leather exported by the largest Brazilian meat leather company, JBS, Stand.Earth has identified the brands complicit in the annihilation of the lung of the earth. In fact, all the realities that source directly or indirectly from JBS are connected to the collapse of the Amazon rainforest.

The problem does not only concern JBS, but the entire Brazilian leather industry. The study analyzed all 6 major exporters, investigating 500,000 rows of customs data obtained from multiple data providers and cross-referenced with data collected from other sources to uncover the hidden supply chain.

Brazilian leather is used by tanneries and manufacturers around the world to make countless consumer-facing branded products, including high-end footwear and fashion products.

Italy is significantly involved: about a third of exports are in fact destined for our country.

At the time of publication, the research highlights over 100 brands that are at high risk of leading to the destruction of the Amazon rainforest. These brands include: Adidas, Nike, Coach, Prada, Zara, Ralph Lauren, Tommy Hilfiger, New Balance, UGG, and Fendi, all of which have more connections with deforestation in the Amazon.

The study revealed:

Brands with multiple connections to deforestation (=high risk), among which:

Adidas
Fila
Camper
Nike
Timberland
Geox
Puma
ASICS
Clarks
Dr. Martens
Tommy Hilfiger
Calvin Klein
Vans
New Balance
Zara
H&M
Guess
Ralph Lauren
Lacoste
Prada
LVMH
Michael Kors
DKNY

Brand with a single connection, among which:

Decathlon
Giorgio Armani
Bally
Esprit
Maison Margiela

By connections we mean the individual links in the supply chain between various companies (leather tanneries in Brazil, leather processorsin various countries, shoe/fashion manufacturers and brands around the world). An interactive site shows the links of all brands, parent companies and the supply chain.

The data analyzed also illustrates that a third of the companies included in the survey are violating their policies, while two thirds of the companies have no policies in place.

Some fashion brands are hiding behind LWG (Leather Working Group), which on the one hand is collaborating with the University of Wisconsin and two NGOs (NWF and WWF) to increase the transparency of the supply chain, on the other, however, fails to address deforestation due to the lack of tracking systems and availability of data on the value chain of cattle in Brazil.

LWG certification does not guarantee that the leather is free from responsibility in deforestation.

Brands often hide behind the claim that their supply chains are free from illegal deforestation, but a 2020 study found that nearly all deforestation in the Brazilian Amazon is illegal.

Slow Factory proposes an environmental campaign to ask for responsibility from brands and hold them legally responsible through legislation. “The fashion industry is known for deliberately obscure supply chains that hide massive human rights and environmental abuses,” explains Colin Vernon, co-founder of Slow Factory. “iven the very lax standards and enforcement on the part of the Brazilian government, we are calling on global brands to make sure that they can prove that their supply chains are clean, without relying on the word of their suppliers, or standards that have massive loopholes. The truth is, the Amazon is being burned down to raise cattle for meat and leather, and brands have the power to stop it“.

Is leather a by-product?

The recurring question when it comes to leather and sustainability is: “Isn’t leather a positive use of a cattle byproduct that would otherwise go to waste?”. Slow Factory confirms that this is not the case.

“Given how much export revenue Brazil generates from leather production, cowhides are considered a co-product, rather than a byproduct, of beef. While the vast majority of Brazil’s beef is consumed domestically, most of its leather makes its way into shoes, handbags, belts, and other items used daily by consumers around the world“.

If you want to read more about the leather industry, we have also talked about it here>