The results of the “Spinning Greenwash” study

The Changing Markets Foundation, a nonprofit organization working on environmental sustainability, commissioned research from the Microplastic Research Group at Çukurova University (Turkey) to compare the release of microplastics between recycled and virgin polyester fabrics. The results reveal a surprising and worrying situation:
The recycled polyester garments tested released an average of approximately 55% more microfibers than those made from virgin polyester during wash cycles.

In terms of average quantity, the study recorded approximately 12,430 microfibers per gram in recycled fabrics, compared to 8,028 microfibers per gram in virgin polyester.

The microfibers released from recycled fabrics are smaller—with an average length of approximately 0.42 mm versus 0.52 mm—making them more easily dispersed and potentially more harmful to ecosystems and human health.

The 51 items analyzed came from five major fashion brands — Adidas, H&M, Nike, Shein, and Zara — and included items such as t-shirts, tops, dresses, and shorts.

What does this mean for the environment?

Microplastics are a globally recognized environmental problem: they are found in soil, waterways, and oceans, but also in living organisms, including human tissue, and are associated with potentially adverse effects on biological systems.

A single wash cycle can release hundreds of thousands of microfibers into wastewater, which treatment systems struggle to fully filter, allowing these particles to enter the environmental and food chains.

Where do all those tiny microfibers end up?

The answer is everywhere. Not just in the seas and rivers, but also in the air we breathe, in the soil of our fields, in the most remote sediments, even in the organic tissues of living beings. According to an Italian report on micro and nanoplastics in the human body (Vera Studio 2024), synthetic textiles are among the most significant sources of microplastics linked to home laundry processes, and certain technical steps like pre-washing can release far greater quantities of microfibers than simple washing and rinsing.

This is the reality: what we wear, wash, and use every day comes into contact with environments we can no longer separate from our daily lives. Yet, amid this scientific reality, some marketing narratives remain reassuring. The Changing Markets Foundation uses a powerful symbolic image to describe many companies’ communications: it calls it a “sustainability fig leaf,” a fig leaf that covers a deep dependence on synthetic materials without properly addressing the problem of microplastics (The Ecologist). And the message comes from an authoritative voice: Urska Trunk, senior campaign manager at Changing Markets, told The Ecologist very clearly that “fashion has sold recycled polyester as a green solution, yet our findings show it exacerbates the problem of microplastic pollution.”

Why is this phrase so important? Because it directly challenges the core of the global textile industry’s green narrative. It’s not about demonizing recycling—but about highlighting the fact that sustainability cannot be a superficial promise, based on catchy claims, if products continue to release significant amounts of microplastics.

And this awareness isn’t just for scientists or environmentalists. It’s about us, our consumption, our washing habits, and, ultimately, the future of our communities and the planet we inhabit.

Why does recycled material release more microplastics?

According to the authors of the Changing Markets study, the difference can be traced back to the structural characteristics of recycled fibers. During recycling processes—both mechanical and chemical—the polyester polymer chains shorten and weaken, making the fibers more fragile and prone to breakage. This leads to a greater release of microfibers during use and washing.

Labeling and transparency: another critical issue

The Changing Markets study also found discrepancies in brand claims: some garments advertised as being made from recycled polyester exhibited shedding behavior similar to that of virgin fabrics. In some cases, online labels and descriptions did not match the fiber information physically displayed on the garments, raising concerns about potentially misleading marketing practices.

What Other Research Says

In addition to the Changing Markets Foundation study, other scientific research is helping to clarify the situation, showing that recycled polyester is not automatically a better solution in terms of microfiber release. A study published in Environmental Pollution in 2024 found that, during home washing, recycled polyester garments can release more microfibers than virgin polyester ones, likely due to the lower mechanical strength of fibers subjected to recycling and heat treatments. Analyses conducted by The Microfibre Consortium confirm this trend in several cases, indicating, in some samples, a release of up to twice as many microfibers, often finer in size and therefore potentially more impactful on ecosystems and the food chain. However, the data also show strong variability: fabric structure, yarn type, production processes, and washing conditions significantly influence the results, with some tests showing less marked differences between virgin and recycled materials.

Overall, the scientific literature converges on one key point: polyester recycling reduces upstream plastic waste, but it does not solve—and can sometimes exacerbate—the problem of microplastic dispersion, confirming the need for a broader approach that includes material innovation, responsible textile design, and strategies to overall reduce the amount of synthetic fibers in circulation.

Microfibers and the Fabric Life Cycle: Beyond Home Washing

When discussing microplastics and microfibers, the common debate often focuses on release during home washing. However, recent research highlights that several stages of textile production are also significant sources of microfiber emissions. A study published in Scientific Reports monitored microfiber emissions in a large textile manufacturing plant and found that wet processing—such as dyeing and finishing—can release up to 25 times more microfibers than home washing cycles, with dyeing accounting for over 95% of emissions under some conditions. These findings suggest that the environmental impact of textiles is not reduced simply by changing the type of fiber (virgin or recycled), but requires optimization and mitigation from the earliest stages of production, for example, through lower dyeing temperatures, shorter process times, and the use of yarns and textile structures that minimize fiber shedding.

How Garment Care and Design Influence Microfiber Release

The amount of microfibers released from a garment depends not only on the material, but also on manufacturing techniques and care conditions. Different cutting and sewing methods, as well as washing conditions, can significantly influence the release of microplastics into the environment. Research published in Science of the Total Environment (2023, R Rathinamoorthy, S Raja Balasaraswathi) demonstrated that the use of more advanced cutting techniques such as laser or ultrasonic cutting can reduce microfiber release by up to 15–20 times compared to traditional scissors, while choosing specific stitch patterns and stitch densities can further reduce fraying. The use of multiple needles increases the release of microfibers across different variations of the same stitch pattern. For example, a 45.27% increase in microfiber release was reported with the 4-thread (2-needle) overlock stitch compared to the 3-thread (1-needle) stitch.

Furthermore, studies conducted on actual laundry loads (Science of the Total Environment, 2023, R Rathinamoorthy, S Raja Balasaraswathi) indicate that parameters such as temperature and cycle length influence the amount of microfibers released, with shorter, colder cycles, full loads, and high-efficiency washing machines reducing release. These findings highlight how changes in garment design and household care practices can help reduce microplastic shedding, complementing efforts to develop more sustainable materials.

An illusory solution or an intermediate step?

The findings of the Changing Markets study do not imply that all recycled materials are useless or that recycling has no value. Rather, they highlight a critical point: reducing environmental impact cannot be solely achieved by transitioning to “recycled” materials if they continue to release significant microplastics.

In other words, if the goal is a truly sustainable textile system, it is necessary to consider:

• design strategies that minimize the release of microfibers (e.g., low-release yarns, more compact textile structures, and less degrading finishes);
• technologies for capturing microfibers in domestic and industrial washing processes;
• an overall reduction in reliance on synthetic fibers—recycled or otherwise—in favor of alternative materials with a lower microplastic impact.

What we can do, concretely

For brands
• design garments with low-linting yarns and more compact structures;
• improve industrial processes, especially dyeing and finishing;
• adopt less fraying cutting and sewing techniques;
• communicate clearly and verifiably;
• invest in microfiber-capturing technologies in industrial laundries and supply chains.

For fashion buyers and consumers
• wash at low temperatures and shorter cycles;
• prefer full loads;
• use more efficient washing machines when possible;
• consider using certified filters or microfiber-capturing devices;
• above all: reduce dependence on fast fashion and synthetics, even recycled ones.
It’s not “buying nothing anymore.”
It’s buying better, less, more consciously.

Toward a broader vision of sustainability

This research is part of a broader debate on sustainability strategies in the fashion industry, which requires integrated and transparent approaches. It’s not just about replacing raw material A with B, but about rethinking production, consumption, and end-of-life models of garments with a truly circular perspective.
For consumers and industry professionals, the study is an invitation to look beyond “recycled” labels and evaluate concrete, independent data to make choices that truly make a difference.

Circa il 60% della produzione tessile globale è in poliestere, un materiale sintetico che deriva dal petrolio. Ogni anno sono necessari 70 milioni di barili di petrolio greggio, un’energia non rinnovabile, per la produzione di poliestere. Non solo, il problema di questo tessuto e delle altre tipologie di tessuti sintetici (come spandex, nylon, acrilico, acetato) è il rilascio di microfibre durante i lavaggi in lavatrice. Si stima che ogni capo rilasci 2.000 microfibre plastiche a ogni ciclo di lavaggio. Le microfibre, attraverso i tubi di scarico, arrivano nei nostri fiumi e mari inquinando, danneggiando la fauna acquatica ed entrando nella catena alimentare (per cui probabilmente nell’acqua e nel cibo che ingeriamo).

Sono allo studio soluzioni per fermare il rilascio di microfibre. Fermo restando che ci chiediamo se sia il caso di frenare l’acquisto così frequente di capi in questi tessuti che derivano dal petrolio, resta comunque il problema di lavare ciò che già abbiamo in materiale sintetico o che eventualmente compriamo in negozi di seconda mano. 

Tra le soluzioni disponibili, oltre al sacchetto da inserire in lavatrice (Guppyfriend, ne abbiamo parlato qui e qui), le aziende produttrici di elettrodomestici stanno studiando come inglobare un filtro nei loro prodotti, anche già all’interno del cestello, in modo da fermare il rilascio di microfibre. Xeros tech per esempio offre questo tipo di soluzioni, oltre a dispositivi per contenere il consumo di acqua.

Cambiare però la nostra lavatrice, se ancora funziona, non è ovviamente la soluzione più sostenibile. Ci sono in commercio filtri che è possibile acquistare e collegare, sembra in modo non molto complicato, alla nostra lavatrice. FILTROL (qui  un video illustrativo) e Girlfriend propongono soluzioni per le nostre lavatrici. Per avere un’idea di come si applicano, ecco le Istruzioni per il filtro.

In Europa, Planet Care produce sia filtri per costruttori di elettrodomestici sia per uso casalingo. È possibile acquistarli on line.

Oltre ai filtri, si parla della palla Cora Ball. Inserita nel cestello della lavatrice, raccoglie le nostre microfibre in modo che possiamo vederle e smaltirle correttamente. Cora si muove lentamente durante il lavaggio, proprio come il corallo, consente all’acqua di fluire, raccogliendo quei piccoli pezzi di microfibra e catturandoli nei suoi steli. Un test indipendente che ha esaminato l’efficacia della Cora Ball ha mostrato che cattura il 26% delle microfibre dallo scarico. 

Il 26% non sembra una percentuale significativa, rispetto a quanto indicato riguardo i filtri (80%-90% delle microfibre trattenute), secondo uno studio diffuso da Marine Pollution Bulletin e realizzato da ricercatori dell’Università di Toronto e di Ocean Conservancy. Sembra che i dispositivi possano essere complementari: il filtro cattura le fibre più lunghe, Cora Ball quelle più piccole. Un video mostra un test in cui Cora Ball e Filtrol sono messi a confronto ( anche se il test non è imparziale, effettuato da Filtrol ;).

Altri studi interessanti sono in cantiere e monitoriamo le novità, in attesa di conoscere ulteriori passi avanti nella ricerca per garantire di non inquinare più con il lavaggio dei nostri capi sintetici. Nel frattempo, vi riportiamo qualche consiglio per limitare il fenomeno nei nostri lavaggi (seguendo qualche suggerimento di Ocean Clean Wash):

• Utilizza la lavatrice a pieno carico, perché comporta meno attrito tra i vestiti, quindi un rilascio inferiore di fibre.
• Preferisci il detersivo liquido a quello in polvere: lo”strofinamento” dei granuli ha come risultato l’allentamento delle fibre dei vestiti più che del liquido.
• Lava a basse a temperature: quando i capi vengono lavati ad alta temperatura alcuni tessuti si danneggiano, causando maggior rilascio di fibre.
• Lava in lavatrice quando necessario: alcune volte, anche in caso di macchie, può essere sufficiente il lavaggio a mano.
• Evita lunghi lavaggi: causano più attrito tra i tessuti, il che suppone un maggiore distaccamento delle fibre.
• Evita la candeggina: rompe più velocemente le fibre.
• Meglio la centrifuga a bassi regimi: i giri più alti aumentano l’attrito tra gli indumenti, con il risultato di maggiori possibilità di rilascio delle fibre.
• Evita di comprare vestiti sintetici preferendo tessuti naturali.

English: How to reduce the release of plastic microfibres when we do our laundry in the washing machine?

About 60% of global textile production is made of polyester, a synthetic material derived from oil. Every year 70 million barrels of crude oil, a non-renewable energy, are required for polyester production. Not only that, the problem with this fabric and other types of synthetic fabrics (such as spandex, nylon, acrylic, acetate) is the release of microfibres during machine washing. It is estimated that each garment releases 2,000 plastic microfibres at each wash cycle. Microfibres, through exhaust pipes, arrive in our rivers and seas polluting, damaging aquatic fauna and entering the food chain (so probably in the water and food we ingest).

Solutions are being studied to stop the release of microfibres. Notwithstanding that we are wondering if it is the case to stop the so frequent purchase of garments in these fabrics that derive from oil, it still remains the problem of washing what we already have in synthetic material or that we eventually buy in second-hand shops.

Among the available solutions, in addition to the bag to insert in the washing machine (Guppyfriend, we talked about it here and here), the appliance manufacturers are studying how to incorporate a filter into their products, even already inside the basket, in order to stop the release of microfibres. Xeros tech , for example, offers this type of solutions, as well as devices to contain water consumption.

But changing our washing machine, if it still works, is obviously not the most sustainable solution. There are filters on the market that you can buy and connect, it seems not in a so complicated way, to our washing machine. FILTROL  (here an  illustrative video) and Girlfriend propose solutions for our washing machines. To get an idea of ​​how to use them, here are the Filter instructions.

In Europe, Planet Care  produces both filters for industrial use and for home one. You can buy them online.

In addition to the filters, Cora Ball is often mentioned. Inserted into the drum of the washing machine, it collects our microfibres so that we can see them and dispose of them correctly. Cora moves slowly during washing, just like coral, allowing water to flow, collecting those small pieces of microfibre and capturing them in its stems. An independent test that examined the effectiveness of the Cora Ball showed that it captures 26% of the microfibers from the drain.

26% do not appear to be a significant percentage, compared to what was indicated with regard to filters (80% -90% of microfibers withheld), according to a study published by Marine Pollution Bulletin and carried out by researchers from the University of Toronto and Ocean Conservancy. It seems that the devices can be complementary: the filter captures the longest fibers, the Cora Ball the smaller ones. A video shows a test in which Cora Ball and Filtrol are compared (even if the test is not impartial, carried out by Filtrol;).

Other interesting studies are in the pipeline and we are monitoring the news, waiting to learn more progress in research to ensure that we no longer pollute with our synthetic garments. In the meantime, we give you some tips to limit the phenomenon in our washes (following few suggestions from the Ocean Clean Wash):

• Use the washing machine at full load, because it involves less friction between the clothes, therefore a lower release of fibres.
• Prefer the liquid detergent to the powdered one: the “rubbing” of the granules results in the loosening of the fibres of the clothes more than with the liquid detergent.
• Prefer low temperature washing: when the clothes are washed at high temperature some fabrics are damaged, causing greater fibre release.
• Wash in the washing machine when necessary: ​​sometimes, even in the case of stains, hand washing may be sufficient.
• Avoid long washes: they cause more friction between the tissues, which supposes a greater detachment of the fibres.
• Avoid bleach: it breaks the fibres faster.
• Dry spin clothes at low speed: the higher revolutions increase the friction between the garments, with the result of greater possibilities of fibre release.
• Avoid buying synthetic clothes preferring natural fabrics.