There’s a word that often gets left out of fashion storytelling: vulnerability.

And yet, it’s precisely there that the most important choices come from. For brands, but also for people.

Being vulnerable doesn’t mean being fragile. It means exposing yourself with clarity, acknowledging what doesn’t work, accepting that not everything can be done as you’d like. It’s a form of honesty. It’s a less visible, yet profoundly human, place. It’s where you no longer seek perfection and instead begin to see things for what they are.

In the fashion system, this is even more difficult.
Because the dominant narrative demands absolute coherence, strong identities, clear positioning.
It demands success and stories of perfection.

However, building a truly responsible brand is, by its very nature, the opposite: it’s a process of constant adjustments, imperfect decisions, and inevitable compromises.

In the new episode of the Pop-Up Green podcast, we step into the Eyelet Milano showroom for a conversation that focuses on precisely this: what happens when a brand decides not to hide its limitations, but to make them part of its journey. Simona Luparello and Alessia Boselini, brand managers, discuss how to address limitations and compromises, where to start to build a more sustainable brand, and which mistakes to avoid.

What you will discover in the interview

In this episode, we touched on some of the most relevant topics for those working in or interested in sustainable fashion:

• Where did the choice to create an ethical brand come from (3:06)
What does Eyelet do and what is its distinctive feature?
The moment the choice to not create “normal fashion” was born
Ideology, necessity, or strategy?
The first question to ask yourself before starting

• Limits and compromises (16:15)
The first compromise accepted
The most difficult one on a personal level
Sustainability vs. survival: the strongest doubt
What is still not sustainable today
Declaring limits or hiding them
The brand’s greatest vulnerabilities

• The choices that define an identity (32:56)
The decision worth being proud of
The aspects of the brand that customers are most satisfied with
What is recognized and appreciated by customers

• For those who want to start a more responsible brand (42:25)
What NOT to do at the beginning
Where to really start
How to face limits and compromises without losing your identity
Three mistakes to avoid

True innovation, in this sector, is not declaring yourself sustainable. It’s knowing how to recognize—and talk about—even what isn’t yet.
If you work in fashion, if you’re building your own project, or if you really want to understand what’s behind a more responsible brand, listen to the full interview.

Photos: Courtesy of Eyelet Milano

Cosetex has revolutionized the industry by transforming what was once considered waste into new opportunities: natural padding, high-quality yarns and collaborations with the denim world. Silvio tells us about the environmental benefits of silk, such as its ability to capture CO2 and the fact that it does not produce plastic microfibers.

But what does “silk waste” really mean? How did silk end up at the Premier Vision denim fair? And how can you give new life to a fine material without waste?

Let’s discover together the path of Cosetex, the materials that you can also use in your collections between tradition and innovation, and its contribution to a more conscious fashion.

Introduction

(0:00) Introduction

• Presentation by Silvio Mandelli and Cosetex
• Silk between luxury and innovation

The world of silk and the role of Cosetex

(1:22) What is silk waste?

• Difference between continuous and discontinuous thread
• How silk waste becomes reusable materials

(4:10) Origin of silk and the role of Cosetex

• The history of the company and the Italian roots in silk production
• The evolution of the silk market: from Italy to China and India

(6:09) The choice of suppliers

• The importance of quality and tradition in the selection of raw materials
• Relations with Chinese and Indian producers

Sustainability and innovation in silk

(7:35) Sustainability in the processing of silk waste

• Recovery of waste and its reuse
• The environmental impact compared to other fibers

The silk market and the challenges of the sector

(16:44) The evolution of the silk market

• Experimentation with silk in different fields
• The relationship between tradition and innovation

(18:57) Innovative applications of silk

• New destinations of use: from padding to technical fabrics
• Collaborations with brands in the fashion sector and home
• Silk at Denim Premiere Vision
• T.Silk

(35:45) The difficulties with companies

• Positioning a niche product
• Educating the market on materials

(38:35) Regulations in the textile sector

• How laws affect smaller companies in the sector

The future

(45:11) The future of sustainable fashion and Cosetex

• Evolution of silk
• The push from below
• G.Silk

Listen to the episode to enter the fascinating world of silk!

Here’s where you can find Cosetex:

Cosetex – 360-degree silk fiber business

https://www.cosetex.it/ – Insights

T.Silk

https://t.silk.bio/ – presentation and e-commerce

https://t.silk.bio/pages/brevetto-imbottitura-in-seta – 100% Silk padding patent

https://t.silk.bio/blogs/magazine – Blog and information

Facebook

https://www.facebook.com/T.SilkOfficial/

https://www.facebook.com/Cosetex

Instagram

@Cosetex | @tsilkcollection

https://www.instagram.com/tsilkcollection/

https://www.instagram.com/cosetex.official/

Linkedin

@Cosetex

https://www.linkedin.com/company/cosetex-seta

photo: courtesy of Cosetex

Listen to the podcast on Speaker , Apple Podcasts or on Spotify:

Hi Manuela, we’ve been chasing each other for years!

“I don’t know how long we’ve been saying this, yes, it’s a pleasure to collaborate together. We really looked forward to each other, but above all we like to talk about fashion and sustainability.”

Let’s start with a chat on the podcast! I’m intrigued by how, as a marketing researcher, you went on to launch a digital platform to promote a sustainable lifestyle and where you can find clothes, footwear and accessories that are in line with this style. What made you approach a more responsible fashion coming from marketing research?

“The path actually lasted a long time over the years, I got closer to sustainable fashion. Both as a researcher and therefore with great experience in going into the merits, I did a doctorate (you know well what it means to go into the depth of the why and how, asking yourself certain questions about production, materials, design). Both as a consumer, because in the end we are all consumers. Specifically, I have been doing marketing research since 2008 and focus on the valorization of brands and the value chain, therefore the entire journey of a product, from creation to its disposal and consumption in the fashion industry. At the same time I specialized in the perception that we consumers have about brands, above all in the luxury sector, but also in fashion, in fact, my first experience was in fast fashion. I look a lot at the emotional component, what it brings to people”

Fast Fashion… Tell us something more, Manuela.

“At the beginning the winning models were those related to the Inditex group, then to Zara. The Inditex group was born precisely because of the speed with which they proposed collection after collection. They had and have excellent integrated logistics, so it means when things are made, produced and shipped to the customer it’s a really quick process. Generally everything happens in their headquarters in Coruña, Spain, but the production takes place in many places, in China, India and Morocco and then they bring all the things to their headquarters. What happen? When I studied these things for my specialist thesis, so many years ago, 2008-2009, I went to their headquarters in Coruña to interview a manager. She told me how these garments, coming from different countries, were also of different quality and workmanship. The best of all are in Spain, Portugal and Morocco, because the key to everything was that in these countries the production was much more controlled and they are much closer to them, they are European countries. The quality of the fabrics was much higher. On the one hand I said ‘Wow, how nice, super logistics, an excellent system?’, on the other it left me with some doubts. I started thinking:

‘But… so… they themselves say that there are products A and products B, production A and production B. So, where are the quality, provenance, reliability of production if we produce in China, in Turkey, in India?’

Much less in those years did we talk about the environment, people, ethics. It was really all about production, producing as much as possible.

This was my origin, the more I investigated, the more I asked myself further questions. This touched my mind as a consumer. Every time I made a purchase I started to see the label, if I went to Zara because in any case I very often visited their stores all over the world and in that period in Spain, I went around, checking the origin, composition. Many times they didn’t look at me properly, just as they still don’t look at me now!”

I know about this! It then becomes an automatic but necessary gesture. Like when you read the ingredients in food products. But what changed then, Manuela, in your way of purchasing clothing once you became aware of all these things you are telling us? And who knows how many others you’ve seen and learned about.

“Certainly if I purchase from large fashion chains, I try to exclude Made in China and India, precisely because I don’t have that feeling of knowledge that perhaps you can have about other types of production that are more similar to ours. In Italy you know maybe in certain places where it is produced better, there is more communication, more integrated. I increasingly prefer quality. When I see prices that are too low, I discard because unfortunately I know what’s behind them. At the same time, I prefer soft, natural fabrics. I eliminated polyesters, both for myself and for the production of The Casual Twinkle. I try to buy Made in Italy also online. There are online sites where they explain that it is Made in Italy, I try to take that. Obviously we then know that Made in Italy can be the last phase of the process or the entire process. So I try to follow reliable brands, which communicate with us consumers about quality, 360° production.”

The attention to quality, the fabrics, the origin: Manuela, and the style?

“It always intertwines with the attention I pay to dressing with my style, which is very simple and elegant, very refined. I don’t like having clothes cuts that don’t give anything to the body, just as I don’t like wearing a stiff fabric. I love feeling good about myself, in harmony with my body, but at the same time I think that a woman’s body also deserves sensuality, softness. Each of us has a different body that needs to be enhanced. Unfortunately, many times low-cost garments or stiff fabrics are not made to highlight the shape of the body. In my opinion, responsible fashion is also a fashion that seeks out garments that are not only engaging for their aesthetic beauty, but also for a certain type of style and cut. Another thing, let’s say that there are dynamics that make me increasingly sensitive to the use of positive environmental, social and ethical practices. Once upon a time it wasn’t considered. Now I realize that I look better if I wear something that is honestly made well, not only well made for me, but also made well for those who work. I don’t feel good if I know that a garment was made by harming a worker, as unfortunately we fashion experts and everyone else knows well by now.”

You talked about various aspects that made you think and reflect. Manuela, in your experience in traditional fashion, what is the aspect that struck you most and that made you say enough with this type of fashion?

“Arianna, certainly since I started dressing my daughter it has been a bit of a key that has relieved me, because you know as long as you think about yourself, you have mechanisms that you have now put in place, when you have to dress someone else, like a mother with her children… I started trying to use the same concept that I use for myself, but unfortunately what I found were very low quality garments, practices behind which you can know because the cost is really low. You know, while for us we have all the wardrobes full, so we can create, compose, do, for the children I necessarily had to buy new. I must say that when I looked into the world of children, I honestly saw that they are a bit the first fruit of a less than conscious fashion, in the sense that apart from the price there is actually a cultural concept: children grow, so you don’t have to dress them with expensive clothes.

No! I say definitely no, because it’s not because they grow up, they deserve to be dressed in clothes that don’t have cuts, in polyesters… Many times maybe you get a dress that is apparently beautiful, but then you put it on and say ‘But no, my daughter can’t live with this.’ I recently saw a little dress in a polyester market with lemons, it’s hot right? There is a whole culture behind which I certainly care a lot about. There is the concept ‘I don’t spend on my child and then I buy lots of things, 3 X 2 or on sale’. These things that already cost €5, I get them for €3. In the end it is a significant expense because you fill your wardrobe with low-cost things for no big reason. Why I do this to my daughter? When one has to manage children, she tries to do the best. If you try to do well for yourself, for the children who are your extension you try to do even better. I absolutely didn’t feel like dressing them in traditional fashion that would harm both them and those who produce it, the environment, because these children’s clothes destroy the ecosystem.”

So that’s why you decided to create The Casual Twinkle? And what did you choose to propose on the platform?

“Yes, yes, absolutely. I care very much, as I said just now, about the education of my children, in the true sense of a respectful and positive culture towards what is part of them, therefore what we mothers, we women, put on our skin, so also on of them, even of what is around them. Unfortunately and fortunately, clothes are the first essence, it’s not just appearance. We Italians live in a wonderful country, made up of both natural wonders and an incredible fashion culture. It’s somehow a shame to dress them in big brands that don’t belong to us, that don’t care about the environment and lack style.

Surely my greatest desire that triggered this is precisely that children, my children but also future generations, can grow up with values, that are sensitive to the world and to people. The items of clothing, it seems banal or maybe one doesn’t think about it, but they also do this. I see it after years, already with my eldest daughter, she is however used to this culture, she begins to understand, I explain to her. Especially wearing beautiful things, she asks me to wear them again. Maybe they don’t understand until they are 4 or 5 years old, then at 6-7 years old, they too begin to form a culture, a habit of how we raised them. Therefore, in my online boutique I have chosen to give main space to children’s fashion, to create Total looks composed not only of garments but also of footwear and accessories that are casual and elegant.

Why elegant casual? Apart from that it’s a bit my style, but then I tried to think about children, in any case they must be dressed comfortably, they must be able to move, because they are constantly on the move. Style for me is something that is part of the essence of dressing. Well, I really wanted there to be harmony with nature. The harmony of The Casual Twinkle embraces solid principles that are environmental, social and ethical. As a marketing expert, I wanted the entire process, from design to use of the garment, to be traceable and controlled.”

What does it mean? That the production chain, the one I talked about before about Zara, which went to India, then returned to La Coruña in Spain, then came to us in Italy or returned to India or Turkey, I wanted this to be as short as possible . There is me who offers the products, there is the consumer who uses them and behind me there is only the brand that produces them. There is only one case, that of a Danish brand that produces in Bolivia, but one of the two founders is Bolivian, it is like the extension of this brand. Furthermore, it is essential for me that there is research behind everything: behind every brand I propose there is a huge selection of unique exclusive garments, made with natural products and for example for women they are all made in Italy and upcycling, therefore avoiding further waste. This is the thread that is always found in The Casual Twinkle: use of natural materials, support for people, support for the environment, non-waste, starting from design.”

What do we find on the platform for children?

“For children, we have polo shirts, shirts, sweatshirts that are hand embroidered in Treviso, therefore nearby. I saw how they do these hand embroideries and you immediately fall in love because they put passion, care, precision into it and they don’t have any type of tool other than the hand that embroiders and it’s something incredible. Then there are also the dresses, the trousers, the rompers. All of these have cashmere, linen or cotton and all of the highest quality, we fall within product protection schemes, they are all certified. I don’t have certifications but my suppliers have them precisely to provide continuity and protect both the consumer and those who work, who are really doing a job that is also useful for the environment.”

And for the little ones?

“There are bodysuits, dungarees, rompers, hand-embroidered in velvet, they are truly wonderful. To complete the look there are shoes: ankle boots, sneakers, sandals, everything you can think of in children’s shoes. These are handcrafted in Portugal by a Danish brand that is a pioneer of sustainability. Since 2005 they have been looking for the best solutions for children’s feet, because one thinks that a child’s foot, or rather perhaps one doesn’t think about it, is really very delicate and needs the right support in every phase of growth. These shoes are all made of leather. Some have also vegetable tanned, without chemical agents and all with non-toxic chemical substances and components. Then for the winter season we have this collection that I was talking about before coming from Bolivia, which are sweaters of alpaca garments. The peculiarity is that they are first and foremost handmade in Bolivia, but above all they are 100% in alpaca. In fact, I don’t know if anyone ever looks, me, you because you told me, at the labels: we rarely find 100% wool, let alone alpaca. Why alpaca? It is extremely soft and has properties that are thermoregulating and is a kind of fiber. These little alpaca hairs are all made together and really create a quality, a softness that is similar to cashmere. This brand, for example, supports the sustainable development of farmers and their families, including the education of their children”.

In addition to children’s clothing, you said that there are also women’s clothing, even for mothers.

“Lingerie, active wear, swimsuits, t-shirts. You know that t-shirt that all of us, or at least I, have always wanted to be soft, that fits well, that highlights the shape of the body, that doesn’t hang as long as a t-shirt, in the sense that we use it with the skirt, the we use it under the jacket, we can use it with jeans, with boots and it highlights the body. All the other pieces highlight the sensuality, the shapes of the body. The Casual Twinkle offers craftsmanship, style, details, comfort. Precisely because of my desire to have collections that are versatile, they can be used on multiple occasions, composing even with a few pieces that last over time, for example the alpaca sweaters are indestructible, they are incredible, but just as the polo shirts are, you can do as many washes as you want so that the cotton remains intact. We do good for our children and for us and for those who produce them.”

Manuela, I want to know something: Why this name?

“It is a name full of metaphors and is a very sweet essence. Casual is the lifestyle, casual but elegant. It is also a way of approaching life: when random events happen in our life, where maybe we are happy, maybe we are burdened, but in this casual way we find a kind of light-heartedness, a joy of living. Twinkle, on the other hand,  is the spark of these moments, it is a glow that illuminates us, the sparkling of the stars and the glitter of the sun’s rays. Do you know when the sun reflects its rays, or when the moon reflects its being on the sea? I’m from Trieste, so the twinkle of the rays of the sun and the moon on the sea  It fascinated me. Furthermore, Twinkle is also reminiscent of the Twinkle children’s lullaby, Twinkle, twinkle little star,  which every mother knows, it is a sweetness for children. It is a style sensitive to our life, where we are the ones who give meaning to our choices with our will, we are the ones who capture that spark that is within us and this is very important in the world of fashion. As fashion has somehow fallen, pushed us to buy and buy more and more, we can say stop with an elegant casual way of dressing, we decide to shine and re-emerge even in the world of fashion. It aims to be a reminder of nature full of charm, but also elegance and comfort, precisely a refined, refined style. It’s not just a brand, it’s also something more, it’s an approach to a human culture. You know, I also have a blog where I talk about life experiences as a mother, thoughts, travels, from a conscious perspective. I propose both my collections and other well-known brands. It’s just being casual and happy.”

What aspects of sustainability characterize the garments you propose, Manuela?

“In one place there are a few, very selected brands. For women it’s all upcycling, high quality regenerated fabrics. The products are zero kilometer, no new resources are used to produce the fabrics, because we use what already exists, following the concept of upcycling and reducing waste from the fashion industry. Our boutique embraces circular design, that is, both in the creative phase and in the planning, the resources and all the materials used and who makes these products are taken into consideration. From a perspective in harmony with nature. For example, in the production of alpaca garments, ladybugs are used as a natural pesticide, I fell in love with this concept. We give a lot of space to artisanal techniques such as embroidery, or all the brands make their products by hand. This is surprising to me, also because the design is innovative, while the techniques come from various textile traditions that have gradually improved over the years.”

Is there an item for children that you recommend most? And if so, why?

“This is a great question! As you may have understood, I love alpaca garments. The shirts are warm, they are thermoregulating, they are soft. With an alpaca sweater you can easily go through the entire season, but not just winter, even the first cold times of autumn or spring, this year’s crazy spring. Even for small children. I didn’t think so, but I have testers who are my children, I also tried it on the little one and used it a lot, they are tight and children need to feel pampered. They need color, to be wrapped. I also recommend polo shirts, embroidered dresses, rompers. Sorry, that’s a really difficult question! I care a lot about Made in Italy, because they are artisanal, because I have seen this company, I often go to visit them. They are truly incredible, they have a care, a passion in choosing fabrics. Together, we create truly stunning collections. And then the shoes: ankle boots for boys/girls have soft leather, they are thermoregulating, truly all made to support the foot.”

You mentioned your blog before, which I have been following for some time with beautiful images that talk about places, experiences in nature. Do you think this connection with the natural world also influenced your choice to move away from traditional fashion, and prefer to create something that had to do with brands more linked to sustainability?

“With this question you hit the nail on the head! I was born in Trieste, a city overlooking the sea, which however is a green plateau, that is, there is an immense hill made up of greenery and woods. So on the one hand I have always seen the sunset over the sea, on the other hand in 5 minutes I am in the middle of fragrant woods. I am very sporty, I have always practiced outdoor activities, by the sea, swimming, or running in the woods, I bring the dog, the children. My parents educated me and my brother in the mountains, in the sense that we went to the mountains a lot in all seasons. Several times I lived in very nice cities in Long Beach, California, near Los Angeles, in Madrid, in Vienna, Oxford, between study and work, I traveled around a bit. Each time the call of my natural world has always brought me home. This for me was decisive in creating my path, and it is a sensitivity that I have developed and continue to develop and live. There was a bit of a spark, regarding Twinkle, that made the pieces of The Casual Twinkle build”.

Can you tell us about any special places you’ve seen that made you think or inspire you about the impact we have on nature?

Yes of course, Arianna. Trieste is certainly a constant source of inspiration, the sky takes on incredible colours. I think precisely because of the light air, which somehow exists between the sea, the mountains, the woods. Definitely the mountains, a place that gives me peace, serenity, in the Dolomites, I usually go there. It seems to me that everything is in harmony with itself and with the things around it. Just the other weekend we were in the mountains, I saw a sunset over the mountains from the balcony of this apartment where we were staying, full of geraniums and flowers. And it had recently rained, the last sun was coming out, coloring the meadows in front bright green. There was also a stream nearby, you can hear the sound of flowing water. Scenarios like these that take you 100% mind body and make me think that there is a sense of completeness, very often that can be achieved even with just a few things, almost as if you didn’t need anything else. Especially in summer, when I walk to the top there is a majesty of nature that fascinates me and which seems like a gift that nature gives to us. At the same time, however, we know that nature is very fragile. Just look at how the weather and the morphology of the territory are changing. I was in the mountains, we were near the Marmolada, with the naked eye you see, I remember how it once was. You see the backward progress it’s making, how much it’s melting, that piece has even collapsed. I also tried to explain this to my daughter for a while, to remember this thing. I think nature is a great inspiration, but it also makes me reflect on the fact that we definitely need to protect it.”

As a single mom with a spirit of adventure, how have you had these experiences with your daughter? Where did you go? Struggle and beauty of traveling with her?

“Yes, Arianna, you know once a friend of mine asked me what is the most difficult thing about being a single mother and almost without thinking I told her ‘sharing the experiences I lived with my daughter with someone else’, but in this case, obviously, with the father. Well, this has always been a difficulty for me, because I am still very expansive in certain things, in adventures, in beautiful events. I like to talk and discuss. We were in the mountains and I walked among the peaks in all weathers, always paying attention to the conditions. I have become very good and know all the weather conditions all the time. I know how long I’ll be there, I calculate the times, the rhythms, the extra clothing to change in case we get wet. They are the little adventures of when you are alone, because you have to be prepared for every eventuality. Then also with her backpack on her shoulder, when she started walking. I never gave up. Even what I liked, maybe I taught her a little, but in any case I actually made myself happy too.”

Where have you been?

“We went to the Basque Country, went to visit a friend, then we spent a few days alone. I took her to Lapland, to the Arctic. This was perhaps the journey that made me understand how much I can ultimately count on myself, on my strengths. These are perhaps demanding trips where you sleep little, you have to organize. But all this opened my heart and my mind. You travel with a little creature that you have to raise and defend, protect, teach. You are alone with a child, you are not dealing with an adult, you also have to find a way for yourself that is fun, that is not a chore. I have to tell you the truth, in the end all these efforts, especially the physical effort at certain moments, has always been rewarded with complicity, extreme serenity. We told each other every kind of story imaginable. We laughed like crazy, sometimes when we were angry we didn’t speak to each other. Now there is also the 2 year old brother, we are a kind of total harmony without limits, it’s very pleasant. As a mother, you always hope to raise serene, sensitive children, in my case also with a positive culture because I realize that it’s a bit of a mental switch. I have it and would love to teach it. I hope that with these adventures, a little crazy, I realize, a little outside the box, the children can both have a respectful way towards themselves, in achieving their objectives, their goals, and also live in harmony with the world around them.”

How beautiful these trips are, Manuela, especially the one in Lapland! I had seen the photos and who knows how exciting it must have been to take this trip with your little girl too! Is there anything you want to say, any advice you want to give to mothers for choosing clothes for their boys and girls?

“Yes, thank you for this question. I recommend taking a few items, perhaps slightly growing and which are versatile. What does this mean? To think about the season, not the event, to think about the shirt for the winter, the warm shoe or the one for the rain. Not to think about that party, that wedding, because those are unique cases. We must get children’s clothes that are long-lasting. So, in my opinion, spend a little more on things that have nice cuts, a nice style, that not only look beautiful but actually are. If the sustainable issue is involved, they cannot cost little, because unfortunately if they cost little it automatically means that they are not sustainable. Spend more on a single item rather than buying many items that look good but fall shapelessly and are worth little. Maybe be a little wary of big chains, in the sense that many cities are full of big chains. You search for the particular brand and unfortunately these are found online, not because I am online, but there is much more choice very often. And to trust the brand, in the sense of seeing the product page and what it says. Because very often many say they are sustainable, but they are not”.

In your opinion, what should we look at on the page to understand if they are more sustainable?

“Look a little at the description of the brand and also at the history, if there is a sustainability page, that they are not things just to say, but that they are truly heartfelt, that there are production photos. Or even that it is well described on the product page, a nice size guide, a nice presentation of the product, but really beautiful, that tells you the story of that product. Very often it says made ‘in EU’, European Union. Where? How? We as consumers always have to ask ourselves questions, even if we are not technicians, but every garment has a story, every brand has it. Also, I think dressing kids a few sizes up doesn’t hurt. Indeed, they grow and the products are expensive, especially if, as we were saying, they are made well. Without any problems, a boy or a girl who dresses 116 can take 128. Let’s say that from the age of half onwards, children have constant growth. A few centimeters more, unless it has to be a tight shirt on the neck, a crew neck if you take it a little wider it’s not that it’s too big for you, if the garments are made well. Don’t think that by buying items that cost more you will end up spending more, because you have essential things. Don’t fill your closets: just as we shouldn’t fill ours, so we shouldn’t fill our children’s closets. And pay close attention to shoes. They are fundamental. Always measure the foot and calculate an extra 1 cm. Above all, I remember once a physiatrist told me ‘You know, in the early years children have really delicate feet and need support’. Here it was one of those ‘casual twinkles’, as I call them. They actually made me compose the piece, it’s really advice I give about shoes. They are essential for children.

Shop with love. Not only towards yourself, that the child is beautiful, but also for the clothes you buy, that they do good because the planet is so beautiful, but it is also so fragile.”

Thank you Manuela for telling us about the clothes, especially for children, for giving the advice and also for making us imagine your adventures with your little girl and now also with your little boy! Next time we hope to meet in nature for another episode. Who knows, maybe something else together. Thank you for telling us about your experience and your project.

“Thank you Arianna, thanks to you it was a pleasure to have this chat, it is certainly an excellent idea to create an episode in the midst of nature. And we hope to meet soon because we talk to each other a lot in various ways, but we have never managed to see each other in person. Congratulations again for the excellent work you do and the passion you put into it. See you soon!”

The Casual Twinkle > Website; Instagram; Facebook.

I’ve been following Carolina on Instagram for years, I finally manage to meet her in Rome, to record a live episode of the podcast (Pop-up Green).

We are on a June afternoon, during the course she is holding “Create your bikini” at  PuntoPieno shop. With her, there are 3 current and former students: Cinzia, owner of PuntoPieno; Tamara, who took sewing courses with Cinzia; Emma, a very young trainee struggling with her first bikini.

You can listen to our talk here, where we talk about DIY swimwear, tailored underwear, craftsmanship and fast fashion. Do you know, for example, what a “bustaia” (corset-maker) is? Or where can you discover vintage lingerie? Or how feasible is it to make a bikini yourself?

Below we report the text of the episode. Take also a look at the photos of the swimwear created!

To follow Caroline: Website; Instagram.

Carolina, I was immediately struck by your initiative “Create your bikini”. What exactly is it about, what are you doing in this course?

Carolina: “In this course we help people who come to us to design a basic pattern, cut the lycra and build a wearable bikini with the cut lycra, applying the elastic. In addition, in the modeling part I always try to help understand how to modify the bases to have different shapes. For example, Tamara uses very small bikini bottoms. In her case we have created something a little taller, but very high cut. Starting from a base, it is modified to obtain the desired result.”

I just wanted to ask, are there any predefined models or, coming to the course, can you choose a model based on your shapes?

Carolina: “So having the base you can make changes. This is a triangle course as top. Modifications can be made starting from the triangle: a slightly longer band, they can be done differently with the seam, without seam, etc. But basically it is that, because unfortunately the modeling of the bra cup with underwire is a whole other world.”

The bottom instead can be modified, smaller as for Tamara.

Carolina: “Actually, changes can also be made for the top. For example, the triangle cup instead of the gathered seam, with the pence, with the padding inside, is still an alternative.”

How did this bikini course come about?

Carolina: “We’ve known each other for some time, she (Cinzia) was already taking courses. We said we wanted to organize something different together”.

Why bikini?

Carolina: “It’s because of her! (Tamara).

Tamara: “I don’t have the same size top and bottom. The bigger size of the ones on the market doesn’t suit me, I started having girls make custom-made costumes. When I started sewing I said to myself: ‘why can’t I do it myself?’.

Carolina: “She was there that day, and we said: ‘What shall we do?’. For me it is essential to have the opportunity to teach how to do things according to one’s own measurements. In fact, this is not a course on cutting. You use your own measurements. From there we developed the idea, it’s summer, so the bikini.”

How many lessons have you done so far?

Carolina: “Four lessons of two and a half hours. We are in the third lesson. She (Emma) has already finished the top. Since it goes fast, we’ll do a variant with the cup inside.”

Why make your own bikini instead of buying it?

Carolina: “First of all, the satisfaction of creating something with your own hands, which no one does anymore. We are in a world that is now accustomed to buying, using, throwing away. There is no longer the conception of what is behind it, we don’t know how things work. And there is no longer even the habit of manual skills. Here, patience is also lacking, we are no longer used to patience, we are all in this circuit of ‘everything at once’. Instead, manual skill pushes you to understand that everything has its time, its rhythm. It may happen that you unravel, start, but then you have something finished that you can say ‘I did it!

That is priceless! I wonder if you have any advice for anyone who wants to try to do it themselves.

Carolina: “Patience. Do it yourself. I always say give it a try. Today on YouTube, on the Internet you generally find a lot of things. Surely there comes a time when you need to have a guide, if you’ve never done what kind of work. If you do something different that you haven’t done, I say try it, if you see that you like it you have to meet someone who gives you at least some guidelines, at least the basics, and then you go on from there”.

To do things precisely and correctly. Like Emma, who started doing it herself, trying, and then she felt the need for the course.

Carolina: “Of course, for example, also remaining in the swimwear course, knowing how to put the pieces on the lycra… Because it is true that it is an elastic fabric but it has a sort of direction to be preferred.”

Who can take this course?

Carolina: “The course is for someone who already knows how to sew a little. Because you have to learn to sew a fabric that is a bit difficult, let’s say. Because it’s stretchy, most of the time it’s made of polyester and nylon, so it’s also really hard to sew mechanically: machines hate it! It takes at least knowing how the fabric works and therefore already knowing how to sew the fabric. Then it is not important to know the model because I teach modeling here.”

The difficulty is mainly the fabric, right?

Carolina: “Yes, and the elastic band”.

So you should have some dexterity with the type of fabric. A person who even has only basic knowledge but has a lot of dexterity can do well, which is the case for Emma.

Carolina: “It’s her case. She took a basic course with Cinzia which evidently allowed her to become familiar with the fabric. She took us to show things that she already does independently”.

Yes, today we have an excellent student here with us, as we said before, who excelled in the basic course with Cinzia.

Cinzia: “She was great”.

What’s your name?

Emma: “My name is Emma. Actually, I used the sewing machine even before, but it was always things I did on my own, nothing taught by anyone, just a little bit. My grandmother gave me a sewing machine for my 18th birthday and from there I started tinkering a bit. But then after a few years I said: ‘But I continue to do these somewhat basic, ugly things’. So mom gave me this basic course to learn the ABC.”

It’s a nice gift! Then you stood out for your skills and were able to attend the most advanced course. Now we have loaded her with expectations! What a pressure, really! Don’t worry, Emma, as if we weren’t there.

I ask you too. How did you start this sewing adventure?

Cinzia: “I’m Cinzia, I’m the owner of PuntoPieno. I opened this place about two and a half years ago, in December of 2020, in the midst of the pandemic. There is someone who says: ‘Eh, courageous!’, I would perhaps say reckless, but in any case I am still here, thanking heaven. I love teaching sewing, I love to sew, I always have. While I did the classic secretarial and managerial assistant jobs, as soon as I had a free moment I would sew at home or even take sewing courses at a rather high level, in a professional tailor’s shop. This allowed me to be a seamstress to all intents and purposes, but above all to specialize in teaching.”

So it was a plan B, a hobbythat eventually became a job.

Cinzia: “In 2017, unfortunately, the company I worked for had a major crisis and I was fired. I asked myself: What do I do? Am I looking for another job as an assistant manager or do I give it a try? I gave it a try, and from 2017 to the end of 2020 I was able to carry out this challenging project. I met Carolina in a women’s business association called Rete al femminile, also at I mercoledì della mansardina. When you have mutual esteem, the desire to work together is easily born. I invited her here to teach a pilot course, where Tamara and I were two students. Tamara is a long-term student of mine, who is practically planted here in a permanent location with my great pleasure.”

Tamara: “In a while I’ll have my residence here, the documents are arriving!”

Cinzia: “We did the first pilot course, we loved it, we revised the timing, the necessary materials so as to be able to offer it in the best possible way to everyone and we have now re-proposed it in June. We hope to be able to do it again in July.”

Yes, because these things must be encouraged!

Cinzia: “Self-production enriches self-esteem, makes us make new connections, enriches creativity. Self produce, anything. Obviously I love to sew, I’m in this area, but self-production is truly something extra”.

What do you do with fabric scraps?

Cinzia: “With the waste of fabrics used during the courses, even simply in my production, there is a certain amount that is discarded. I always try to recover and reuse all the pieces for which I create small objects that can easily be used”.

What did you like the most about the pilot course and what made you say: “This is a course to be repeated”? What is the best thing about the course you did?

Cinzia: “The feeling of having the finished product. I’ve been sewing for several years already, I have experience. I must say that lycra made me a little nervous. It’s not that easy to sew. Obviously with all of Carolina’s tricks and teachings, I’ve already reached the third bikini! And I definitely intend to sew more. The thing I liked the most is having the first bikini in my hands. And immediately wanting to make another one, and then another one. This is one thing that I liked without a doubt the most.”

Carolina: “Let’s say that during the course she wasn’t really that happy! ‘Don’t worry, we’re getting to the end’, I said.”

Tamara: “Lycra is a bad impact. During the course there were moments when I looked at Cinzia and said: ‘But I can continue to buy them! No, why do I have to make them myself??? I do something else by myself, I’m already sewing, I’m doing something else! In reality, what Cinzia says is true. The first bikini, with all the limitations of the case, can’t be perfect, but beyond everything, I also chose the lycra badly. It’s only right that Cinzia chooses it, it wasn’t a ‘nice to sew’ lycra. Even Carolina admitted it. It’s one more difficulty. So, having removed this obstacle of the first bikini, we bought lycra together, we made the second bikini together independently and… I actually went down to the beach wearing this bikini (I have so many, I have a drawer full) in my opinion it was the most beautiful bikini. Then you feel like duplicating them. She had told me: ‘If you want in the future you can add the cup’. In the third bikini I put the cups and it went very well.”

I saw a photo of you wearing it, then I don’t know now if we can publish it to show the final result, nice! You can see that it fits perfectly.

Tamara: “I like that. Beyond the aesthetics of the bikini, my biggest doubt was: ‘Having done the bikini, if I wear it, is the effect similar to what I buy?’. Actually I have to say yes. I particularly like it, because obviously when the fact that you did it yourself intervenes, it has a value. I finished this one yesterday and I can’t wait for tomorrow just to put on my new swimwear.”

You make me think, you know?, about this. Because in my opinion the fact of self-production also gives satisfaction. It also serves as an anti-stress, there are a myriad of reasons, you can choose materials, perhaps even recycled. Having done it ourselves, giving it a different value than the one bought, it touches on an aspect of sustainability that I hold dear. Just to make the things we have last as long as possible, right Carolina?

Carolina: “Of course, when one sews something, she/he does it with the fabrics you prefer. Maybe quality, because it’s clear that if you go and buy things that are already made you’ll find the fabric they use, which isn’t always the best, we know that. Instead, by doing it yourself, you can also find quality fabric. If you have done something well, cut it well, it fits you well, you keep it. You use it and you don’t need much to make it always new. You can also modify it if you increase or decrease it over time or if you want to change something about the style. You can always intervene on the garment that you made yourself. With a garment you buy, which has no seam allowances, which is made with poor quality fabrics, you can’t intervene much.”

This matter of materials, I was also pleased to touch it because probably someone who will then listen to the podcast or read the article knowing me will think: “Are you talking about materials such as polyester, lycra, synthetic materials?”. I talk about it and I like to talk about this project. Apart from finding alternatives, such as recovering old fabrics.

Carolina: “Old swimwear, for example, or other things that can be recovered. Because the elastic bands unfortunately decay over time. If the time comes they crumble, they last a few years, but you can actually reuse the fabric. Now you can also find recycled lycra.”

Perfect! They are also studying new materials. Moreover, I love recovery.

Carolina: “I make a swimsuit that lasts as many years as I want.”

On the other hand, it is one thing to buy a 100% polyester dress from a fast fashion brand that I maybe wear for two months and then I turn it into textile waste.

Emma: “Speaking of Shein and the various fast fashion chains, it’s something that is very close to my heart, because it’s been like 4-5 years since I’ve been in these stores anymore.”

Were they all like you, it’s nice to hear so!

Emma: “Now there are so many alternatives. Markets, small markets, those sites like Vinted and second-hand sales. I’ve realized now, after so many years of buying only used, vintage things from mum’s and grandma’s wardrobes, when I go in (those stores), just touching the fabrics, that it’s a bad quality. And not only. Just doing this course I realized how impossible it is for a pair of trousers to cost €10 on Shein! Because only the fabric, I paid €30 for it, then you have to add the labour”.

Tamara: “Theoretically also the energy you use for the sewing machines. But in fact anyone who does not sew does not realize. For example, last time I made trousers, now I’m making a suit, 2.20 meters of fabric. If the fabric costs around €20 per meter of fabric alone, it’s more than €50”.

Emma: “They are certainly much faster processes than the ones done by hand, because everything is industrialized and so on. But it is clear that it is inevitable that the worker is underpaid, or even she/he is not paid at all, because otherwise it is not really sustainable!”

In my opinion this type of activity really serves to understand the work behind it, which should then actually be done with every product, object that we buy. Because we’ve maybe lost touch with the production side. Not knowing what lies behind it, we tend to underestimate a lot, we are unable to give an economic value.

Cinzia: “In fact, craftsmanship, in addition to tailoring, when one goes to the seamstress to have a made-to-measure suit made, is thought to have absurd prices. Not true, they are the right ones. Because apart from the material, the hours of work needed and not only that, even the skills we have, which we have built up over the years, are in any case added values that we put into the finished product and therefore it would be fair to repay it adequately. But what’s the difference? We see that we are placed on the same level as chains like H&M, like Shein, like Zara. There is no comparison and yet we are compared. Not us in general as craftsmen, but the final product itself is compared, when it is actually on another planet. Unfortunately, a handcrafted product is considered a luxury product. And it shouldn’t be like this.”

Yes, that’s what I often say, that it’s distorted: the right price has become expensive because it has dropped, there is someone who has pulled it down a lot. So we have lost a correct term of comparison, instead this would be the correct price.

Tamara: “The other day I was talking to a friend of mine who said to me: ‘Tami, I bought trousers from Shein. It stinks a lot of oil, what can I do? I told her I wouldn’t wear it in any case. Do you know what she answered me? ‘You know what? I wasn’t convinced, but it cost so little that I thought that even if I put it on twice and throw it away…’.
I also happened to go to flea markets, the first thing I do now is to go around and look at how it is sewn. ‘This is all wrong!’ I practically took the clothes apart, and walked away. I love flea markets, I spend a lot of time there. After the second market I go to her (Cinzia) and I say I will never buy anything again!”

This made me remind of my grandmother, who every time I brought her something and said “Can you make it shorter”, she looked at it, immediately turned it upside down, looked at the stitching and said “It’s all sewn wrong!”. I would like to ask you too, what did you like most about doing the course with Carolina?

Tamara: “That despite everything, lycra can be sewn! First of all, the possibility of wearing a bikini made entirely by me.”

Quanti ne hai fatti? How many did you make?

Tamara: “Three.”

And are you ready for the forth?

Tamara: “I’ve already bought the lycra and next week I’ll start the forth.”

I like it very much, I’m curious to see the fourth too then.

Carolina Gi is not only swimwear, it is also another world and I have accumulated a bit of curiosity. Could you briefly help me sort out the various terms related to your business?

Carolina: “Actually, they are all part of the same discipline. Brassiere is the French word for bra. Here in Italy, however, it indicates a certain type of bra, which is not very structured. Almost like the bralette, but while the bralette, more in lace, is more aesthetically elaborate, the brassiere is a bra without underwire, perhaps of the undershirt type or in any case in cotton, more practical. Corsetière could be the correspondent of ‘bustaia’ but linked to the world of corsets. Lingerie indicates the sector of the bra, the petticoat, the garter belt, the whole world of intimate apparel, but also something more linked to the more aesthetic than functional side.”

So we clarify a bit, we no longer even ask ourselves what is behind it and if they have different names because there is also a different craftsmanship behind it. Earlier you mentioned the ‘bustaia’ (corset maker). I read in your blog that you were talking about it regarding jobs that disappear.

Carolina: “Bras have entered our history, our life, not for a long time. There were no shops where you went to buy bras. There was the seamstress who specialized in the sector, the corset maker, who made the bra, made the body shaper, the girdle. Again, things were made to measure. The ready-to-wear shop wasn’t there. Department stores started appearing, but not everyone went there. Not everything was there either. Many people did things at home. Many went to the seamstress, and if you wanted something special in terms of underwear you had to go to the ‘bustaia’. There is a different preparation, you are dealing with different fabrics, with different shapes and patterns. If you wanted a bra or girdle or corset because maybe you wanted to tighten your waist a little, you went to the corset maker.”

Can we define you as a modern ‘bustaia’?

Carolina: “Yes, I use the word corsetière, first of all it seems to me a somewhat French term. But it is no longer found. If you go looking, you’ll find someone who has kept the name, perhaps they are shops that still have a certain longevity. But when they refer to the ‘bustaia’, they mean a person who, if you go there, buy the bra and have to make the change, does it. They don’t do the “made to measure”. I couldn’t find other people. Not only in Rome, not even around Italy.”

 And abroad? Because you wrote ‘Abroad is another matter, maybe I’ll tell you, this is another story’.

Carolina: “Yes, then I never told it! Abroad, meanwhile, there are people who do the same job as me, but do-it-yourself works much more. There are many people who sell the model in multiple sizes. There are many groups where you enter and ask for help because maybe you are not able, because you take a size, the one that comes closest but you have to do the fitting of the thing you know you have to create for yourself. In that case, if you don’t know how to do it, you have to get help. So there are many who help each other. And then they sell the sets. There are companies that sell the piece of lace, the piece of fabric, the elastics, the closures, the caps. There is a huge world, there are also many online courses.”

Carolina, why did you choose this job?

Carolina: “I come from a fashion academy, I’m a stylist, a model maker. For many years I have dealt with clothing, both in tailors and on my own privately. Then came a moment… Do you know those things that are in front of you, but you don’t see them? One day I was on the verge of desperation, I said: ‘I can’t take it anymore, I’m going to look for bras for myself and I can never find them (I have a large size). But why don’t you do it yourself?” My light bulb went on. I’ve actually always had a great love for lingerie and corsetry. Corsets are already slightly different from lingerie, a parallel, beautiful world that I love madly, but it’s a little different. So, I started experimenting, looking for information, seeing people, talking. In short, slowly I bought the modeling books. In Italy there are no courses. Being already a pattern maker it was easier for me. If you don’t have the basics it’s a little more complicated, above all because, in fact, there are no schools in Italy. I’d like to create a school where one can learn to make lingerie and corsetry. Now some girls have started doing something, but they’re always limited, they never arrive at the real tailored made. They are always tailored made, made to measure, always standardized things. So it’s hard to be able to solve exactly that kind of problem.”

Cinzia: “In the meantime, however, we could do some courses here.”

Let’s think big, we start small, and meanwhile in the long term…

In your opinion, in this society which is dictated by frenetic pace even in consumption, by the rush to own garments based on the brand, by the loss of sight of the importance of quality in favor of quantity instead, according to you, do we underestimate, out of ignorance, the importance of wearing tailored underwear?

Carolina: “Yes, especially in the bra sector. We are led to think that we buy a bra, make it wearable and we have solved. Too bad it’s not like that. A bra must support a certain way, it must not hurt you when you wear them, it must not give you back pain. It has a structure. Going back to the previous discussion, for example, maybe I’d go looking in the shops, find the fifth D bra cup for me, tie it on and I’ve solved it! But after two days it didn’t fit me anymore, because the cup wasn’t the right one, the underbust, the band wasn’t the right one.”

Vintage lingerie, your passion. What do you particularly like about vintage lingerie? Is there any piece that makes you feel this passion?

Carolina: “I grew up with those wonderful Hollywood-style films, including Italian ones, with Sofia Loren, with all the most famous actresses, best known all over the world. They were often represented in films in romantic scenes with a dressing gown, guêpière, garter belt. I have those references that were objectively very beautiful, I’m in love with that aesthetic. I like to search from photos to information. Every now and then I enjoy reproducing, for example, a bra following a model. I had a book of models, there are photos with the design on graph paper, so it could be redone in exactly the same size and so I did, I was able to redo those things. Bringing back the garter belt, bringing back the guêpière, these things here, why not?”

I would ask you if you have a book to recommend for discovering vintage lingerie.

Carolina: “More than a book, I’ll give you two websites, ok? One is a site that you actually enter with a subscription, but has tons of articles that are also accessible for free: Foundation Revealed. You can find everything related above all from corsets to swimwear. It is a large Anglo-Saxon community that loves costumes, loves proposing and recreating them, everything that was worn underneath, that is, they are truly very very particular historical reconstructions. Another wonderful site is Underpinning museum. Someone with this passion did a crowdfunding and set up this museum where there are all the vintage garments, from all eras, and continues to add them. Some are reproductions, some are originals. It is a virtual museum. I don’t remember if they are British or American. It truly is a wonderful archive of photographs, full of spectacular models.”

Let’s talk about some ideas for courses. You can’t find the beautiful bodysuits of the past anymore. I found myself, for at least 2-3 years, with a desire for those very very feminine bodysuits. What about a course to make them?

Cinzia: “We will do everything!”.

Carolina: “Here it’s getting difficult!”.

Slowly, slowly, I’d love to make one of those, perhaps starting with a simpler model. When you come here to sew are there machines available?

Carolina: “She (Emma) brought hers, she set it because so at home it already starts from ‘to make this seam we use this stitches and this thread tension etc.’ But there are also some sewing machines available. In the pilot course we used all the machines we have here in the laboratory to understand which were the best settings based on each machine, the right needle, the size of the stitch, the type of thread to use. We invite you if you want to sew at home too, maybe if you have the opportunity to bring your own machine, because it’s a particular setting, then it’s worth it”.

One leaves the world outside. She/He sits there, thinks about sewing. There is herbal tea, a biscuit. I really like this dimension, that is, it’s not just the course itself. We come here, we chat, which is not just ‘you make your own bikini’, but you create a world, a network of people to be with.

Tamara: “Indeed, a world opens up for you. The first few times I needed Cinzia, I always need Cinzia but now I can understand. I didn’t call Cinzia and tell her: ‘I have to make an electric toothbrush case’. I called Cinzia and said: ‘Among the waterproof fabrics, which one can you give me?’.”

And then she gives the advice on fabrics.

Tamara: “I have to be honest about the suggestions for fabrics: I’ve never seen them quite as beautiful as here at Cinzia’s. The quality, the choice is really something special.”

Cinzia: “When I can, I also try to choose totally or partially recycled fabrics. One thing I always say is that polyester is demonized a lot, and it’s true, absolutely true, but unfortunately cotton doesn’t have a particularly low impact.”

I totally agree, there isn’t the perfect fabric, but many people think: “It’s natural!”, actually natural doesn’t mean it’s sustainable. it doesn’t actually exist. Polyester has pros and cons, the cons of course being that it comes from petroleum. The pro is that it doesn’t use as much water as is used for cotton. One fabric cannot be demonized over another.

Carolina: “Mine, among other things, is a sector where it is difficult to say: ‘We sew sustainably’, because for example natural fabrics that can be used are few. Clearly, according to common feeling, most of the fabrics used in lingerie are polyester. It’s clearly demonized by now, but yes, wait there too. It gives you features that help you wear it in a certain way, it’s long-lasting, because in any case it takes time before it breaks.”

This is why it is important that you like it a lot, to keep it for a long time.

Tamara: “I am in contact with young people in my work, and they don’t have this culture.”

Cynthia: “Except Emma!”

Tamara: “She’s really are a rare case!”

Emma is our gem.

Tamara: “Even my pupils and others, even the generation immediately before (like that of my nephew), grew up with the possibility of buying at low cost and having a thousand alternatives. When I was younger it’s true that maybe I bought anyway, but it was much more expensive regardless, and you didn’t have all this variety that allowed you to have such an affordable price. Even if the sweater for me, the trousers cost me enough, it was a more conscious choice. Now if you go to the shops the shirt costs €10, if you’re not convinced you buy it anyway.”

Carolina: “Let’s say that this fabric costs €2 per meter for the industry. Then there’s the thread, the current, the lining, the buttons, the zipper. We add 5 €.”

It doesn’t add up…

Tamara: “But the fabric is the one that takes the most money from me in the project.”

Plus the working hours.

Tamara: “Work must be quantified”.

Cinzia: “Work in the sense of how long it takes you to do the thing”.

Tamara: “Yesterday a girl said to me: ‘How beautiful this is! Well, how long does it take you to make the pants?’ That’s not how long it takes. You buy the fabric, you buy the thread”.

Emma: “It’s not just ‘you buy the fabric’ here. It’s ‘you go out, get in the car, go get the fabric, choose it”.

Which is the same thing that smaller brands do.

Emma: “I’m lucky because I studied sculpture and installation, so I really know the value of handmade things, plus I also had my grandmother who sewed. Hence also the importance of taking used things. In all the work I do, even sculpture, I always try to have as little waste as possible, use as little plastic as possible, natural elements. Even in that field, which is very difficult.
Grandma wants a hand modifying her swimsuit!”

Cinzia: “Now you give her a hand, instead!”.

(Emma shows the bikini she is sewing). All: “Wow. How beautiful, very beautiful!”

Cynthia: “Can I tell you something? My first bikini didn’t turn out so well! Mine was much wavier.”

Carolina: “In fact I was about to say: ‘Ask them how it was!’ I guarantee you that to be the first bikini it’s coming out great!”

Now a curiosity: I still can not sew straight!

Cinzia: “Ok, come and have a lesson with me! Look, actually you lack the reference point. When you’re in a car, what keeps you going straight is following the lines out of the corner of your eye. On a deserted road it’s the lines that allow you…, in fact when they aren’t there on a country road, it’s only asphalted for example, it’s difficult to stay in one’s lane. When you sew it’s a bit the same thing. When sewing you need to choose a reference point, whether it’s the edge of the foot, the notches on the needle plate, a guideline, a reference point”:

Mi piacerebbe venire a fare il corso! I would like to do the course!

Cinzia: “Great”

Grazie per questo pomeriggio insieme! Mi piace pensare che un mestiere come quello della bustaia non stia scomparendo, che sia qualcuno/a che continuerà ad appassionarsene e a raccontarne la bellezza, magari imparando proprio da Carolina, incuriosito/a dalla sua intervista e dal blog. Ci meritiamo di indossare un intimo comodo e bello!

Thank you for this afternoon together! I like to think that a profession like that of  ‘bustaia’ is not disappearing, that there’s someone who will continue to be passionate about it and tell its beauty, perhaps even learning from Carolina, intrigued by her interview and blog. We deserve to wear comfortable and beautiful underwear!

Carolina Gi website; Instagram

Photos by: cover, Riccardo Scrocca; Carolina Gi, Cinzia, Tamara, Emma.

In the last Premier Vision Denim fair in Milan we met many Pakistani realities selling denim. This article aims to explore the challenges faced by Pakistan in achieving sustainable denim production and the strategies employed to overcome them.

Denim in Pakistan: A Blue Gold Rush

Pakistan is the third largest preferred cotton-producing countries* in 2019/2020, after Brazil and India. The country is considered as a significantly large producer and exporter of denim, with a long history of textile manufacturing, and is home to several denim mills and factories which produce denim fabrics, garments, and accessories for domestic and international markets.

The denim industry in Pakistan has grown significantly in recent years, thanks to the country’s large labor force, competitive prices, and favorable trade agreements with major markets like the United States and the European Union.

*defined by the list of recognized standards. Includes: ABRAPA, BASF e3, Better Cotton Initiative (BCI), Cleaner Cotton, Cotton made in Africa (CmiA), Fairtrade, Fairtrade Organic, Field to Market, In-Conversion Cotton (Transitional in USA), ISCC, myBMP, Organic, REEL Cotton, Regenerative Cotton, and the USCTP.

Environmental Impact of Denim Production 

Denim production significantly contributes to Pakistan’s economy but has adverse environmental impacts. Which are five environmental impacts of denim production in Pakistan?

• Water pollution
  A major environmental impacts of denim production is water pollution. During denim production, large amounts of chemicals are used to dye and treat the fabric. These chemicals can contaminate the water used in production, leading to pollution of nearby water sources such as rivers and streams. The polluted water can harm aquatic life and people’s health relying on these water sources for drinking and irrigation.
• Energy consumption
  The production of denim requires a considerable amount of energy. The energy is used to power the various machines used in production, including spinning, weaving, and dyeing machines. This energy consumption increases greenhouse gas emissions, contributing to climate change.
• Land use
  Denim production requires large land for cotton cultivation. Using agricultural land for cotton cultivation can lead to deforestation, soil erosion, and biodiversity loss.
• Waste generation
  The denim production process generates a significant amount of waste, including leftover cotton fibers, yarns, and chemicals. These wastes can end up in landfills or be disposed of improperly, leading to further environmental degradation.
• Human health
  The use of chemicals in denim production can have adverse effects on the health of workers and nearby communities. Exposure to these chemicals can cause respiratory problems, skin irritation, and other health issues.

Sustainable Practices in Denim Production in Pakistan 

Like in many other countries, denim production in Pakistan has historically been associated with various environmental and social challenges. Whereas, in recent years, there has been a growing recognition of the need for sustainable practices in denim production, which can help minimize the negative impact on the environment and improve the social conditions of workers involved in the production process.

Here are some sustainable practices in denim production in Pakistan:

• Water conservation
  Denim production is a water-intensive process, and in many cases, water is discharged untreated into nearby water bodies, causing pollution. To address this issue, many denim producers in Pakistan are adopting water conservation measures, such as recycling and reusing water in different stages of production, implementing closed-loop systems, and using low-water dyeing technologies. These practices can significantly reduce the amount of freshwater used in denim production and minimize the risk of water pollution.
• Energy efficiency
  Denim production requires a significant amount of energy, mainly for heating, cooling, and powering machinery. To reduce energy consumption, many denim producers in Pakistan are investing in energy-efficient technologies, such as LED lighting, heat recovery systems, and renewable energy sources like solar and wind power. Using renewable energy sources, denim producers can reduce their reliance on fossil fuels and minimize their carbon footprint.
• Chemical management
  Denim production involves the use of a variety of chemicals, including dyes, finishing agents, and detergents, which can have harmful effects on human health and the environment. To ensure safe use of chemicals, many denim producers in Pakistan are adopting chemical management practices, such as using safer and more eco-friendly chemicals, implementing closed-loop systems for chemical recycling, and ensuring proper disposal of hazardous waste.
• Fair labour practices
  Denim production in Pakistan, like in many other countries, has been associated with labor rights violations, including low wages, long working hours, and poor working conditions. To address these issues, many denim producers in Pakistan are adopting fair labor practices, such as providing workers with safe and healthy working conditions, ensuring fair wages and benefits, and promoting gender equality and diversity in the workplace.
• Product traceability
  Denim production involves complex global supply chains, making it difficult to trace the origin of materials and ensure responsible sourcing practices. To promote transparency and accountability in the supply chain, many denim producers in Pakistan are implementing product traceability systems, like block chain technology and RFID tags, which allow them to track the origin of materials and ensure they meet environmental and social standards.

Challenges in Implementing Sustainable Practices 

Implementing sustainable practices in Pakistan presents several challenges that require careful consideration and planning. A major challenge is the lack of awareness about sustainable practices among the general population. As a result, many people in Pakistan are unaware of the importance of sustainable practices and how they can contribute to preserving the environment. Another challenge is the lack of regulatory framework and enforcement mechanisms to ensure compliance with sustainable practices. This creates a situation where many businesses and industries continue to operate in a manner that is detrimental to the environment.

Additionally, lack of resources and funding for implementing sustainable practices can make it difficult for businesses and organizations to invest in sustainable solutions. Finally, cultural and social norms in Pakistan can also pose challenges to adopting sustainable practices, as some practices may conflict with traditional values and beliefs. Addressing these challenges require a multi-faceted approach that includes awareness campaigns, stronger regulatory frameworks, increased funding and resources, and engagement with local communities to promote understanding and acceptance of sustainable practices.

Success Stories in Sustainable Denim Production in Pakistan 

Pakistan’s denim industry has made significant progress in adopting sustainable practices in recent years. Here are three success stories in sustainable denim production in Pakistan:
* Artistic Milliners
Artistic Milliners is a leading denim manufacturer in Pakistan that has made significant strides in sustainable denim production. The company has invested in sustainable technologies, such as laser printing and ozone washes, to reduce water consumption and chemical use in manufacturing. They have also implemented a closed-loop production system that recycles water and reduces waste.
* Soorty Enterprises
Soorty Enterprises is another Pakistani denim manufacturer implementing sustainable practices in its production processes. The company’s dedicated sustainability department reduces water, chemical, and energy consumption. Soorty has also implemented a water recycling program, which has helped the company reduce its water usage by 40%.
* Naveena Denim
Naveena Denim is a Pakistani denim manufacturer that has invested significantly in sustainable practices. The company has installed a wastewater treatment plant that recycles 100% of the wastewater generated during production. Naveena has also implemented a sustainable chemical management program, which ensures that all chemicals used in the manufacturing process are safe for workers and the environment. Additionally, the company has implemented energy-efficient practices, such as using solar panels to power its factories.

The Future of Sustainable Denim Production in Pakistan 

The future of sustainable denim production in Pakistan is closely tied to the fashion industry’s increasing focus on sustainability. Denim sustainability has become a key priority for many fashion brands as they seek to reduce the environmental impact of their products. Cotton sustainability is also critical, as cotton is the primary raw material used in denim production. In addition to environmental concerns, modern slavery is a significant issue in the textile industry, and brands must ensure that their denim is produced ethically. Textile dyeing is another area where sustainable practices can have a significant impact, as traditional dyeing methods can be highly polluting. As the fashion industry continues to prioritize sustainability, Pakistan’s denim producers must adopt sustainable practices to remain competitive and meet the demands of environmentally conscious consumers.
Pakistani textile companies are just beginning to incorporate Sustainable Business Practices. Not only for the pressure of market forces such as competition and demand (in order to compete in the global market, textile producers must satisfy customers’ environmental demands), but also because textile companies are under the regulatory pressure, for example by European Union’s (EU’s) Scheme of Generalized Scheme of Preferences Plus (GSP+) to avail duty free export to EU. Textile firms are continuously striving hard to adopt sustainable business practices. Net Zero Pakistan, for example, is a national partnership involving cutting-edge businesses, government organizations, and sectoral specialists to achieve Pakistan’s objective of net zero carbon by 2050. 23 signatories of this partnership have committed and set net zero targets, affirmed to measure and disclose transparently the levels and sources of GHG emissions, vowed to decarbonize value chains and lastly have shown interest in advocating for climate action. The textile sector is also actively engaging in international conventions and platforms such as ‘Better Work Programme’, ‘Decent Work Country Programme-IV (2023-27)’, ‘The Accord on Fire and Building Safety’ (source: All Pakistan Textile Mills Association).
Achieving sustainable denim production in Pakistan requires a collective effort from all stakeholders in the industry. While progress has been made in adopting eco-friendly practices, there are still challenges to overcome such as the high cost of sustainable materials and limited access to technology. To address these challenges, manufacturers must invest in research and development, collaborate with international brands and experts, and prioritize the health and safety of workers. As consumers, we can promote sustainable denim production by buying from brands that prioritize sustainability and ethical practices. We can build a more sustainable and responsible denim industry in Pakistan and beyond by working together.

– From our Pakistani correspondent –

Note: the textile industry in Pakistan has been facing a crisis in the last months of 2022 causing a drop of textile exports.

Other articles on jeans and denim >

Photos: Divazus Fabric Store; Claire Abdo; Jason Leung; Maude Frédérique Lavoie.

A shop window in the streets of Pienza catches my eye. It is the laboratory of Raffaella Zurlo, Ricreare Lab Shop, which recovers and transforms materials destined to be thrown away. Upcycling for Raffaella means looking at potential waste from another point of view. We chat with her about her creations and the world of creative recycling.

Not only that: she also tells us how she managed to create an Instagram profile that intrigues and pleasantly entertains on three different themes, in common they have the offer of artistically produced objects with less impact on the environment. In addition, she also reveals to us what it is like to deal with upcycling in this Tuscan country, entering the territory.

In the podcast episode you will discover:

• 01:11 – The incredible meeting with Raffaella!
• 03:40 – What Raffaella does (and what does upcycling mean, which is not recycling)
• 05:38 – Metals: what do they have to do with it?
• 06:44 – Respect for patina
• 07:00 – The emotion talking about Piero Angela
• 10:35 – Waldorf dolls: how they come from Raffaella’s hands and recovered materials
• 12:10 – Do you know what ‘scardacci’ are?
• 14:45 – The most beautiful things recovered by Raffaella
• 6:22 pm – When Jude Law sat here!

Tips for brands:

• 20:30 – What is it like to carry out upcycling projects in Pienza
• 23:33 – The pandemic: how Raffaella reacted
• 11:43 pm – How do you get to build a beautiful Instagram profile
• 26:07 – Relying on a professional
• 27:55 – How much time Raffaella dedicates to social media
• 29:28 – Advice for those who want to start upcycling
• 31.37 – Let’s talk about money
• 33:04 – On Clubhouse with Bottega di Cartone

Raffaella also recovers garments for children and adults.

Do you want to know more about upcycling and get to know other brands? You can download our free guide here> Upcycling: da rifiuto a tesoro

MANIERE ITALIANE

Underwear, swimwear and sportswear

“We decided to create a product that we could not find: an eco-sustainable underwear of 100% made in Italy quality, which respects the environment, those who produce it and those who wear it. We have chosen to keep the entire production process in Italy, from materials to transformation and packaging. The cotton used is OEKO-TEX certified, the guarantee that our underwear is free from toxic products for both the body and the environment”.

LIZÈ NATURAL CLOTHING

Underwear and apparel

“Forget clothing that makes you sweat, that sticks to you … at Lizè everything is soft and breathable, pure and hypoallergenic. Really healthy, comfortable and beautiful garments, to be worn every day, accessible to all, with finally clear and understandable and above all sustainable labels and produced with respect for people, work and the environment”.

Tip: prefer hemp and organic cotton.

NUDE.

Underwear

“We only work with factories that share our vision and carry it through by continually researching and finding ways to improve their environmental and sustainable practices. Our factories guarantee a workplace free from forced labor, offering their workers a safe space and paying a living wage and, of course, treating everyone with respect at all times”.

SIMPLYCRIS

Underwear

“Produced by Italian hands (for packaging exclusively ours) made with components of certain origin, then treated with finishing certified and guaranteed. To protect everyone’s health, we are the first to always wear what we produce”. Artisan, local, but not organic fabrics.

Y.O.U. Underwear

Underwear

All of our underwear is made from 100% GOTS certified organic cotton and is also Fair Trade and PETA approved vegan. And with our “buy-one-gift-two” model, you make a difference with every purchase! For every pair of underwear you purchase, we donate two pairs to the Smalls for All charity. Available in sizes S to XXL in 6 classic colors and 5 vibrant prints”.

We interviewed Y.O.U. Underwear during the Be The Change Awards >

Cover photo: elaborated from Esteban Bernal

Does more sustainable cotton automatically indicate a brand’s sustainability? Primark communicates the progress of the Sustainable Cotton Program and there is nothing but talk of sustainability after the launch of the Primark Cares line. The Irish fashion retailer, owned by Associated British Foods (ABF), says it aims for garments to last longer, to reduce the company’s impact on the planet and to improve the lives of the people who make the products.

In the section dedicated to sustainability, between attention to the environment and commitment to people the multitude of virtuous messages strikes the reader. Is this really the case if we take a closer look at the data? Why did the sale of the recycled plastic sweatshirt with the word Earth Day, close to Earth Day, aroused not a few accusations of greenwashing?

First, the information on the site is not easily accessible, clear and transparent. Referring also to the pages of the parent company ABF, we try to find out more.

Environment

Raw materials

Currently one third of the products are made with recycled, organic or materials from the Sustainable Cotton Program, which involves farmers who apply more sustainable practices. While many techniques are used by organic farmers within the cotton program, Primark’s sustainable cotton is by definition not organic. Primark expects to reach 100% products with more sustainable materials by 2030.

A collection was created in collaboration with Recover, an innovator in recycled cotton. There are recovered plastic fabrics. There is no evidence of the sustainability of all other materials used.

Primark is committed to reducing harmful substances subject to production restrictions (Restricted Substances List) along the supply chain, reaching the goal of “zero release” in 2020. However, there is no evidence that this target is achieved.

Design

Primark declares a commitment to reducing the environmental impact in the design phase of products in the coming years, but there are no details on the decrease in production or the raw materials used, nor on the increase in quality and on the extension of the life cycle of the product.

They say they want to increase the durability level. At the moment it concerns in practice only denim. A much more intensive test cycle of 30 washes was introduced for a large sample of men’s, women’s and children’s denim. This level of rigor is recommended by WRAP and the Ellen MacArthur Foundation.

Waste

“96% of all waste generated by Primark’s direct operations was diverted from the landfill”, is reported in the ESG report, without specifying which processes they refer to (it seems to mean those relating to the distribution and sale of fashion items) . Among the published data we read that out of 57,000 tons of textile waste produced in 2021, 54,000 were recycled, with no details on how. The in-store recycling scheme is mentioned, with collection boxes available in all 191 stores in across the UK, recently extended to Germany, Austria and the Netherlands Primark partners with Yellow Octopus, whose goal is that all donations are reused or recycled so that nothing ends up in landfills.

Packaging

In 2021 Primark created 41,000 tons of packaging. It removed 175 million units of plastic. Uses recycled paper bags. The hangers are made of recycled cardboard. It has eliminated 86 million labels and adhesives from products and aims to eliminate single-use plastics by 2027.

Water consumption

In the ESG report, we read about the commitment to reduce the use of water but cotton, which requires large quantities, is an essential raw material for Primark: in 2020 it represented about half of the total mix of fibers used. There are no data on the total use of water for textile production.

Emissions

Also in this case we read the objective: 50% reduction of emissions (GHG) along the Primark value chain by 2030. Last year the company directly produced 119,000 tons of CO2e, to which it add 4,783,000 tons indirectly generated by third party transportation and extended inventory.

Energy

In the reports of the parent company, the total use for the retail part of 461 GWh is indicated, of which 0% is currently renewable. Primark has achieved ISO 50001 certification for retail outlets, offices and distribution centers in some of the established markets.

People

Suppliers are chosen according to a Code of Conduct, defined by the company. This set of guiding principles is based on the internationally recognized labor standards of the International Labor Organization (ILO) and the Basic Code of the Ethical Trading Initiative (ETI)*. Primark audits its suppliers through an annual on-site inspection. “Our Fair Trade and Environmental Sustainability team has more than 130 local experts”, it explains on the website. “Their task is to carry out, at least once a year, in-person checks at all the plants we work with and also to hold training courses for staff and workers”.

The site mentions a number of projects in India, Myanmar, Bangladesh, China, Indonesia, Vietnam and Cambodia. Among these, the collaboration with the ILO in the Better Work program is the one that gives the greatest guarantee of commitment to improving labor standards in countries where workers are less protected.

Primark was among the first retailers to sign the Fire and Building Safety Agreement in Bangladesh, initiated by IndustriALL and UNI Global Union. It was also one of the first to provide factory victims and families affected by the collapse with financial support and food aid after the Rana Plaza disaster. Primark has since been committed to offering financial advice and guidance. In addition, the Irish retailer has launched the “Pashe Achi Project” to ensure that compensation recipients retain access to their financial compensation.

* It is a leading alliance of companies, trade unions and NGOs that promotes respect for workers’ rights around the world.

Is everything okay on the social point of view?

On traceability, Primark shares online the map and the list of Tier 1 suppliers map and list of the Tier 1 suppliers (the partners with whom it interfaces directly, who cut and sew the garments).

However, there is no evidence of an increase in the number of paid workers with a living wage, nor transparency on existing working conditions for workers and the supply chain. There is no evidence that all the raw materials used were produced with respect for the human rights of farmers and their communities.

Someone fears that the company’s private talks with workers, described as an instrument of protection, are not sufficient to protect them, because they are not carried out by reliable external organizations. Often union members are threatened or fired: how does Primark ensure that they are allowed inside the factories and protected so that they can do their job freely?

It appears that the annual inspections are supported by independent audit firms, so that the integrity of the audits is not affected. However, the audit reports are not publicly shared, thus generating many questions about how well Primark is ensuring the protection of its workers’ rights. Similarly, the company has a complaints system in place but does not disclose data relating to complaints submitted.

Clean Clothes Campaign  denounced lower wages and non-payment during months of detention due to the pandemic by multinationals including Primark. Nearly 70% of the workers surveyed endured periods when normal pre-pandemic wages were not paid. All these workers survived on poverty wages even before the pandemic and it has become even more difficult to live in dignity. Additionally, workers report increased production targets, unsafe working conditions, and harassment from management. Primark has made some progress this year by engaging in  #PayUp to raise wages and signing the renewal of the Fire and Building Safety Agreement in Bangladesh.

There is recent news of a Primark manager who sues the company for sex discrimination, after she was told to work late despite having a newborn child (source Independent).

Certifications

There is no information on the certifications most used in the more responsible fashion, except in some garments such as a type of jeans certified CradleToCradle. Only in cosmetics, cruelty free certified by Leaping Bunny. However, they are not vegan, because some products may contain ingredients from animal derivatives.

Responsible consumption and other issues

Low prices

The policy of the retail giant is that of low prices, reaffirmed by the recent statement by George Weston, ABF CEO: “We are committed to maintaining our leadership position in terms of price and accessibility in everyday life, especially in this context of growing economic uncertainty”. However, Primark has recently communicated an increase on the tags of the autumn-winter collections, due to the increase in the prices of raw materials and energy following the invasion of Ukraine by Russia. For this reason alone, the group expects a reduction in the margins of its activities.

“For more than ten years”, explains Luca Ciuffreda, head of Primark for Italy, “we have been able to guarantee low prices because we do not advertise, we have reduced the packaging to a minimum, the hangers are made of recycled cardboard, and we have control, ethical too, on the production chain, which is often the same as that of luxury brands”(Source Laborability).

Sandals at £ 4, summer bags £ 10, perfume and clothes £ 7, sunglasses £ 2. How is it possible to implement especially social sustainability with such low prices?

The quality is also in doubt. This is the case of surf wetsuits, the subject of debate in these days. A Cornish surf magazine recently attacked Primark’s new range of wetsuits, calling them “cheap”, “sad” and “high treason at sea”. Cornwall Live says the garments will be “thrown away in no time”. The cost for Primark wetsuits is £ 38 for the full length and £ 32 for the short version. By comparison, an Xcel wetsuit, considered one of the world’s leading companies in the field, costs between £ 100 and £ 300. Another trade magazine, Real Surfing Magazine, also hit the fashion chain urging readers to think twice first. to purchase the new product line.

Volumes and speed of purchases

There is no trace of the company’s commitment to produce less with the aim of spreading a more responsible consumption and production model. A fundamental aspect to demonstrate awareness of the climate crisis and the limits of our planet’s resources.

Instead, there are clues to strategies for inviting customers to buy more and things they often don’t need. In the Channel 5 documentary Primark: How Do They Do It?, psychologist Dr Amna Khan put tools on the table to induce people to buy extra items and extend their stay in the store. In the documentary she declares:

“A destination store creates an experience for the consumer, almost like going to a theme park where all your senses are activated and you want to stay longer”.

Primark buys large retail spaces and adds extra experiences such as bars and beauty services to tempt customers to hang out and spend more. Because it doesn’t sell online like many of its competitors, shoppers are forced to visit the store in person, where they are exposed and tempted to purchase more goods and services, such as manicures. The £ 1 secret toy is another tool that Primark shoppers are obsessed with, emotionally captured by childhood memories.

The company has included some recommendations on the maintenance of the garments by the customers in order to extend the life.

Other issues

A Primark’s customer claims that a store-bought bra left her skin sore and sore. Rika Smith from Blackwood was left with itchy and sore skin after wearing the garment for the first time.

A woman in size UK 10 was furious after purchasing a pair of size 12 pants from Primark without being able to put them on. Ally Marie told her story on TikTok to send a message: “Primark this is ridiculous, no wonder people are struggling with body image. I normally have a size 8/10 in jeans and I have to take a size 14 from Primark”.

In the speed of releasing new collections and the pressure to design new garments, ultra-fast fashion companies are not new to episodes of plagiarism. The presentation of a coat on Instagram was greeted by an avalanche of “likes” and compliments, but also by the Daily Record‘s observation of the strong resemblance to the oversize coat from the winter collection of Blancha, a Tuscan clothing brand. The original garment is in shearling, made in Italy, and the quality in the design and production phase is reflected in the price.

How sustainable do you think Primark is? Let us know what you think by clicking here

A selection of (more sustainable) garments prepared for you, to start the new year with many shades of a color that embraces the qualities of blues with a purple-red undertone. With our proposals you can try PANTONE 17-3938 Very Peri to express a lively and joyful attitude through your clothes.

Displaying a carefree confidence and a daring curiosity that animates our creative spirit, inquisitive and intriguing PANTONE 17-3938 Very Peri helps us to embrace this altered landscape of possibilities, opening us up to a new vision as we rewrite our lives. Rekindling gratitude for some of the qualities that blue represents complemented by a new perspective that resonates today, PANTONE 17-3938 Very Peri places the future ahead in a new light.

We are living in transformative times. PANTONE 17-3938 Very Peri is a symbol of the global zeitgeist of the moment and the transition we are going through. As we emerge from an intense period of isolation, our notions and standards are changing, and our physical and digital lives have merged in new ways. Digital design helps us to stretch the limits of reality, opening the door to a dynamic virtual world where we can explore and create new color possibilities. With trends in gaming, the expanding popularity of the metaverse and rising artistic community in the digital space PANTONE 17-3938 Very Peri illustrates the fusion of modern life and how color trends in the digital world are being manifested in the physical world and vice versa.

Pantone

> Do you have a garment in the Very Peri shade in your vintage, second-hand or greener and more ethical fashion store? Write to us to insert it in the article.

1. Décolleté shoes Sandro Ferrone, Depop.
2. Vintage beaded necklace (1920-1930s Art Deco), Hidden Hairlooms Sales.
3. Oleg Cassini 90s vintage suit. Classic blue jacket with reverse and black buttons. Blue pleated skirt, Dedè couture.

1. Gianni Versace Couture 90s silk jacket, transparent resin buttons with logo, Alessandra (Vestiaire Collective).
2. Gianni Versace Couture 80s bag, clutch bag model with shoulder strap, zip closure with pendant, Dedè couture .
3. Lurex vintage skirt, Armuar Torino.

1. Taffetà 40s dress, Scrabble frocks.
2. Laura Biagiotti 80s vintage cotton coat, gold-colored buttons, side pockets, Dedè couture.
3. Soft cotton top with silk collar, Depop.

1. Christian Louboutin trainers, Louis Spikes Hi-Tops, Balewink.
2. Kejo down jacket in a beautiful periwinkle color, Depop.
3. Cashmere blend sweater and jacket in coordinated knit fabric, Share Varese 

1. Linen midi dress, Pavietra.
2. Summer dress, with slightly balloon skirt and fabric-covered buttons on the back, Depop.

What is waiting for us in this summer? What swimwear to choose?

Surely also in this summer 2021 we see the timeless bikinis and one-piece swimsuits, especially high-cut ones.

Vintage model swimsuits, colors or patterns, cut-out bikinis and one-piece swimsuits are very popular.

We see a lot: the high-cut, both the briefs and the one-piece, and also more particular models among laces, shapes, lines, fabrics and original embroideries.

But what are the trend items of the summer?

• Chrochet: garments such as tops, dresses and t-shirts, but also light hats and cardigans, and the main feature is that they are crocheted. The classic white is fine but above all the color is better, in fact geometric patterns are preferred.
• Swimwear with cut out: from the classic trikini with large cutout on the navel to swimsuits with a cutout effect. But the summer fashion not to be missed is the cut under the breast.
• Print block & color block: swimwear that also plays with vivid, energetic and vibrant shades. You can feel free to mix even more imaginative patterns together, ranging from floral to abstract or exotic motifs.
• Basic swimwear: swimwear whose basic and minimal style conquers everyone. The solid color bikini is a summer 2021 swimwear trend that can never be missing in your holiday suitcase.
• Low-waisted trousers: low-waisted trousers are a real comeback, especially jeans.
• Pink garments: Pink t-shirts, pants, dresses and accessories will prevail this summer 2021. Pink will be the color of the season!
• Bralette: a little bra and a little top, very comfortable and super trendy. They are perfect for the summer especially if worn with soft trousers but also with a light cardigan on top.
• One-piece swimsuits: swimsuits with plunging neckline and bright shades. Also made in ribbed, the most used models are those in solid colors, but with particular details such as crossed straps or decorated with rhinestones.
• Lace-up Bikinis: The hottest bikini of the season, especially for girls, is filled with adjustable laces, perfect for creating a beautiful knot that hugs the abdomen and hips.

At Dress Ecode, we suggest you more sustainable and alternative materials and brands to fast fashion. You can see below the outfits chosen for you.

Sofia C. – Green Fashion Teen

If you missed the previous article by Sofia C., you can read it  here.

Sofia was born and raised in northern Italy and attends the first year of classical high school.

She is interested in writing and fashion; precisely for this reason she decided to start writing for Dress Ecode News: to learn new notions on sustainable fashion and to inspire a change in the way of dressing of his peers, giving them the tools to choose consciously and wear clothes that respect the environment.

GREEN FASHION TEEN 

^
1. Top

2. Shorts

3. Bikini

^
1. Swimwear

2. Flip flop

^
1. Bikini

2. Top

3. Shorts

^
1. Swimwear

2. Sandal

^
1. Bikini

2. Straw bag

Editor’s note

Editor’s note: Sofia is our teenager who writes about sustainable fashion for fun and passion, with the approval of the parents we have known for many years.
Engaging and talking to kids about sustainable fashion is a child’s play. This is why we involved Sofia.
Her column, dedicated to boys and girls who want not to give up on fashion but care about the environment, is as slow as our approach to information: Sofia writes when she likes it, compatibly with her school commitments, friends and activities that amuse her.
This is why an article on winter garments can also be released in summer, but we treasure her advice, preparing ourselves for the season that will arrive sooner or later
Also, please be patient if a garment is no longer available at the link indicated, because we mainly choose second-hand items and it may happen that in the meantime they are purchased. However, there are many alternatives and in case you need help finding them we are here.

If you have any questions for Sofia write us! (contact_us@dressecode.it)