In the last Premier Vision Denim fair in Milan we met many Pakistani realities selling denim. This article aims to explore the challenges faced by Pakistan in achieving sustainable denim production and the strategies employed to overcome them.

Denim in Pakistan: A Blue Gold Rush

Pakistan is the third largest preferred cotton-producing countries* in 2019/2020, after Brazil and India. The country is considered as a significantly large producer and exporter of denim, with a long history of textile manufacturing, and is home to several denim mills and factories which produce denim fabrics, garments, and accessories for domestic and international markets.

The denim industry in Pakistan has grown significantly in recent years, thanks to the country’s large labor force, competitive prices, and favorable trade agreements with major markets like the United States and the European Union.

*defined by the list of recognized standards. Includes: ABRAPA, BASF e3, Better Cotton Initiative (BCI), Cleaner Cotton, Cotton made in Africa (CmiA), Fairtrade, Fairtrade Organic, Field to Market, In-Conversion Cotton (Transitional in USA), ISCC, myBMP, Organic, REEL Cotton, Regenerative Cotton, and the USCTP.

Environmental Impact of Denim Production 

Denim production significantly contributes to Pakistan’s economy but has adverse environmental impacts. Which are five environmental impacts of denim production in Pakistan?

• Water pollution
  A major environmental impacts of denim production is water pollution. During denim production, large amounts of chemicals are used to dye and treat the fabric. These chemicals can contaminate the water used in production, leading to pollution of nearby water sources such as rivers and streams. The polluted water can harm aquatic life and people’s health relying on these water sources for drinking and irrigation.
• Energy consumption
  The production of denim requires a considerable amount of energy. The energy is used to power the various machines used in production, including spinning, weaving, and dyeing machines. This energy consumption increases greenhouse gas emissions, contributing to climate change.
• Land use
  Denim production requires large land for cotton cultivation. Using agricultural land for cotton cultivation can lead to deforestation, soil erosion, and biodiversity loss.
• Waste generation
  The denim production process generates a significant amount of waste, including leftover cotton fibers, yarns, and chemicals. These wastes can end up in landfills or be disposed of improperly, leading to further environmental degradation.
• Human health
  The use of chemicals in denim production can have adverse effects on the health of workers and nearby communities. Exposure to these chemicals can cause respiratory problems, skin irritation, and other health issues.

Sustainable Practices in Denim Production in Pakistan 

Like in many other countries, denim production in Pakistan has historically been associated with various environmental and social challenges. Whereas, in recent years, there has been a growing recognition of the need for sustainable practices in denim production, which can help minimize the negative impact on the environment and improve the social conditions of workers involved in the production process.

Here are some sustainable practices in denim production in Pakistan:

• Water conservation
  Denim production is a water-intensive process, and in many cases, water is discharged untreated into nearby water bodies, causing pollution. To address this issue, many denim producers in Pakistan are adopting water conservation measures, such as recycling and reusing water in different stages of production, implementing closed-loop systems, and using low-water dyeing technologies. These practices can significantly reduce the amount of freshwater used in denim production and minimize the risk of water pollution.
• Energy efficiency
  Denim production requires a significant amount of energy, mainly for heating, cooling, and powering machinery. To reduce energy consumption, many denim producers in Pakistan are investing in energy-efficient technologies, such as LED lighting, heat recovery systems, and renewable energy sources like solar and wind power. Using renewable energy sources, denim producers can reduce their reliance on fossil fuels and minimize their carbon footprint.
• Chemical management
  Denim production involves the use of a variety of chemicals, including dyes, finishing agents, and detergents, which can have harmful effects on human health and the environment. To ensure safe use of chemicals, many denim producers in Pakistan are adopting chemical management practices, such as using safer and more eco-friendly chemicals, implementing closed-loop systems for chemical recycling, and ensuring proper disposal of hazardous waste.
• Fair labour practices
  Denim production in Pakistan, like in many other countries, has been associated with labor rights violations, including low wages, long working hours, and poor working conditions. To address these issues, many denim producers in Pakistan are adopting fair labor practices, such as providing workers with safe and healthy working conditions, ensuring fair wages and benefits, and promoting gender equality and diversity in the workplace.
• Product traceability
  Denim production involves complex global supply chains, making it difficult to trace the origin of materials and ensure responsible sourcing practices. To promote transparency and accountability in the supply chain, many denim producers in Pakistan are implementing product traceability systems, like block chain technology and RFID tags, which allow them to track the origin of materials and ensure they meet environmental and social standards.

Challenges in Implementing Sustainable Practices 

Implementing sustainable practices in Pakistan presents several challenges that require careful consideration and planning. A major challenge is the lack of awareness about sustainable practices among the general population. As a result, many people in Pakistan are unaware of the importance of sustainable practices and how they can contribute to preserving the environment. Another challenge is the lack of regulatory framework and enforcement mechanisms to ensure compliance with sustainable practices. This creates a situation where many businesses and industries continue to operate in a manner that is detrimental to the environment.

Additionally, lack of resources and funding for implementing sustainable practices can make it difficult for businesses and organizations to invest in sustainable solutions. Finally, cultural and social norms in Pakistan can also pose challenges to adopting sustainable practices, as some practices may conflict with traditional values and beliefs. Addressing these challenges require a multi-faceted approach that includes awareness campaigns, stronger regulatory frameworks, increased funding and resources, and engagement with local communities to promote understanding and acceptance of sustainable practices.

Success Stories in Sustainable Denim Production in Pakistan 

Pakistan’s denim industry has made significant progress in adopting sustainable practices in recent years. Here are three success stories in sustainable denim production in Pakistan:
* Artistic Milliners
Artistic Milliners is a leading denim manufacturer in Pakistan that has made significant strides in sustainable denim production. The company has invested in sustainable technologies, such as laser printing and ozone washes, to reduce water consumption and chemical use in manufacturing. They have also implemented a closed-loop production system that recycles water and reduces waste.
* Soorty Enterprises
Soorty Enterprises is another Pakistani denim manufacturer implementing sustainable practices in its production processes. The company’s dedicated sustainability department reduces water, chemical, and energy consumption. Soorty has also implemented a water recycling program, which has helped the company reduce its water usage by 40%.
* Naveena Denim
Naveena Denim is a Pakistani denim manufacturer that has invested significantly in sustainable practices. The company has installed a wastewater treatment plant that recycles 100% of the wastewater generated during production. Naveena has also implemented a sustainable chemical management program, which ensures that all chemicals used in the manufacturing process are safe for workers and the environment. Additionally, the company has implemented energy-efficient practices, such as using solar panels to power its factories.

The Future of Sustainable Denim Production in Pakistan 

The future of sustainable denim production in Pakistan is closely tied to the fashion industry’s increasing focus on sustainability. Denim sustainability has become a key priority for many fashion brands as they seek to reduce the environmental impact of their products. Cotton sustainability is also critical, as cotton is the primary raw material used in denim production. In addition to environmental concerns, modern slavery is a significant issue in the textile industry, and brands must ensure that their denim is produced ethically. Textile dyeing is another area where sustainable practices can have a significant impact, as traditional dyeing methods can be highly polluting. As the fashion industry continues to prioritize sustainability, Pakistan’s denim producers must adopt sustainable practices to remain competitive and meet the demands of environmentally conscious consumers.
Pakistani textile companies are just beginning to incorporate Sustainable Business Practices. Not only for the pressure of market forces such as competition and demand (in order to compete in the global market, textile producers must satisfy customers’ environmental demands), but also because textile companies are under the regulatory pressure, for example by European Union’s (EU’s) Scheme of Generalized Scheme of Preferences Plus (GSP+) to avail duty free export to EU. Textile firms are continuously striving hard to adopt sustainable business practices. Net Zero Pakistan, for example, is a national partnership involving cutting-edge businesses, government organizations, and sectoral specialists to achieve Pakistan’s objective of net zero carbon by 2050. 23 signatories of this partnership have committed and set net zero targets, affirmed to measure and disclose transparently the levels and sources of GHG emissions, vowed to decarbonize value chains and lastly have shown interest in advocating for climate action. The textile sector is also actively engaging in international conventions and platforms such as ‘Better Work Programme’, ‘Decent Work Country Programme-IV (2023-27)’, ‘The Accord on Fire and Building Safety’ (source: All Pakistan Textile Mills Association).
Achieving sustainable denim production in Pakistan requires a collective effort from all stakeholders in the industry. While progress has been made in adopting eco-friendly practices, there are still challenges to overcome such as the high cost of sustainable materials and limited access to technology. To address these challenges, manufacturers must invest in research and development, collaborate with international brands and experts, and prioritize the health and safety of workers. As consumers, we can promote sustainable denim production by buying from brands that prioritize sustainability and ethical practices. We can build a more sustainable and responsible denim industry in Pakistan and beyond by working together.

– From our Pakistani correspondent –

Note: the textile industry in Pakistan has been facing a crisis in the last months of 2022 causing a drop of textile exports.

Other articles on jeans and denim >

Photos: Divazus Fabric Store; Claire Abdo; Jason Leung; Maude Frédérique Lavoie.

Puoi ascoltare qui l’articolo: Succede ancora

È successo di nuovo. Un’altra fabbrica che produce per aziende multinazionali, dopo quella crollata in Bangladesh circa 7 anni fa, è andata a fuoco. La mancanza di sicurezza antincendio nell’edificio è in gran parte responsabile dell’incidente che è avvenuto sabato 8 febbraio 2020 nella fabbrica di Nandan Denim ad Ahmedabad, gestita dal Gruppo Chiripal* che conta tra i suo clienti molti marchi internazionali. Le vittime sono 7 dipendenti, con un’età compresa tra 22 e 47 anni.

Sebbene la causa dell’incendio non sia stata ancora comunicata, The Indian Express ha affermato che è iniziato nel reparto camiceria dove erano presenti più di 60 lavoratori, senza ventilazione e incapaci di fuggire abbastanza rapidamente attraverso l’unica porta per entrare e uscire.

I dipendenti di Nandan Demin dichiarano di essere pagati circa 35 centesimi l’ora, lavorando in condizioni pericolose che spesso lasciano loro poco tempo per mangiare o andare in bagno. “Lavoriamo quasi 14 ore al giorno. Ma abbiamo un’alternativa?”, si chiede Vimalbhai, un operaio tessile. “Ogni tanto c’è un incendio in una fabbrica o nell’altra. A nessuno importa e noi continuiamo a lavorare”.

“Ci sono volute circa 22 ore per spegnere l’incendio. I locali della fabbrica erano pieni di denim, altri tessuti e macchinari che hanno preso fuoco. Le vittime si trovavano al primo piano della fabbrica”, ha spiegato a The Indian Express il capo dei vigili del fuoco di Ahmedabad, Rajesh Bhatt. “Il fumo continuava a fluttuare dall’edificio mentre i lavoratori intrappolati urlavano in cerca di aiuto”, ha raccontato un testimone in condizioni di anonimato perché preoccupato di perdere il lavoro.

Zara, OVS, Primark, Target, C&A, Ralph Lauren, Pull&Bear e Ann Taylor sono tra i marchi citati come clienti sul sito dell’azienda di Nandan Denim, che afferma nel suo documento di bilancio annuale (Annual Report) di essere il più grande produttore indiano di tessuti denim e il quarto al mondo. Nandan Denim fa parte dell’azienda Nandan Terry (qui la lista dei loro clienti, tra cui United Colors of Benetton http://nandanterry.com/our-esteemed-customers.html).

Da quando è arrivata la notizia, tuttavia molti marchi hanno affermato di non avere rapporti con la fabbrica, tra questi Zara, Ralph Lauren, Target, Ann Taylor, Pull&Bear e VF Corp. La casa madre di Zara, Inditex, ha dichiarato che Nandan Denim ha prodotto 10.000 paia di jeans per un altro dei suoi marchi, Lefties.

Nandan Denim ha promesso di pagare 1 milione di rupie indiane ($14.000) alle famiglie sopravvissute dei lavoratori e di fornire un lavoro a un membro della famiglia di ciascuno dei defunti. Gli investigatori della polizia hanno affermato che la fabbrica ha violato molteplici regolamenti e che il proprietario, un manager e un ufficiale di sicurezza antincendio sono stati arrestati.

Questo è il secondo incendio mortale in India negli ultimi due mesi, a dicembre in una fabbrica di borse a Delhi hanno perso la vita 43 lavoratori. Sul sito di Nandan Denim ci sono anche le sezioni dedicate alla sostenibilità e all’attenzione alla sicurezza dei lavoratori. È ora di non guardare a ciò che le aziende scrivono o dicono, ma a ciò che fanno, è ora di chiedere controlli rigidi a organi esterni affidabili e di scegliere produttori trasparenti e onesti.

*Il Gruppo Chiripal opera nel settore della filatura, tessitura, maglieria, lavorazione dei tessuti, prodotti chimici e petrolchimici.

Foto: Associated Press

English – It still happens: another company that produces for international brands went on fire causing victims

It happened again. Another factory that produces for multinational companies, after the one that collapsed in Bangladesh about 7 years ago, has burned down. The lack of fire safety in the building is largely responsible for the accident that occurred on Saturday 8 February 2020 in the Nandan Denim factory in Ahmedabad, managed by the Chiripal Group* which has many international brands among its customers. The victims are 7 employees, aged between 22 and 47.

Although the cause of the fire has not yet been reported, The Indian Express said it started in the shirt department where more than 60 workers were present, without ventilation and unable to escape quickly enough through the only door to enter and exit.

Nandan Demin employees claim to be paid around 35 cents an hour, working in dangerous conditions that often leave them little time to eat or go to the toilette. “We work almost 14 hours a day. But do we have an option?”, asks Vimalbhai, a textile worker. “Every once a while there is a fire in some factory or the other. Nobody cares and we keep on working”.

“It took us around 22 hours to douse the fire. The factory premises were filled with denim, other fabrics and machinery, all of which caught fire. The victims were present on the first floor of the factory”, Ahmedabad chief of fire Rajesh Bhatt explained to The Indian Express, “Smoke kept billowing from the building as workers trapped inside screamed for help”, said an anonymous witness because he worried about losing his job.

Zara, OVS, Primark, Target, C&A, Ralph Lauren, Pull & Bear and Ann Taylor are among the brands mentioned as customers on the Nandan Denim company website, which claims in its Annual Report that it is the largest Indian manufacturer of denim fabrics and the fourth in the world. Nandan Denim is part of the Nandan Terry company (here is the list of their customers, including United Colors of Benetton http://nandanterry.com/our-esteemed-customers.html).

Since the news came, however, many brands have claimed that they have no relationship with the factory, including Zara, Ralph Lauren, Target, Ann Taylor, Pull & Bear and VF Corp. Zara’s parent company, Inditex, has stated that Nandan Denim has produced 10,000 pairs of jeans for another of its brands, Lefties.

Nandan Denim promised to pay 1 million Indian rupees ($14,000) to the surviving families of the workers and to provide work for a member of the family of each of the deceased. Police investigators said the factory had violated multiple regulations and that the owner, a manager and a fire safety officer were arrested.

This is the second deadliest fire in India in the past two months, 43 workers were killed in a bag factory in Delhi in December. On the Nandan Denim website there are also sections dedicated to sustainability and attention to worker safety. It is time not to look at what companies write or say, but what they do, it is time to ask for rigid controls from reliable external bodies and to choose transparent and honest producers.

*The Chiripal Group operates in the spinning, weaving, knitting, fabric processing, chemical and petrochemical sector.

Photo: Associated Press

Levi’s presenta nella nuova collezione alcuni modelli di giacca (Trucker) e di jeans (511 Slims) che contengono il 30% di canapa insieme al cotone. L’azienda definisce il tessuto “canapa cotonata”. L’introduzione accanto all’ “assetato” cotone di una fibra ottenuta da una pianta che richiede meno acqua è un piccolo passo avanti nel percorso verso la sostenibilità.

Riguardo il cotone utilizzato da Levi’s, al momento il 34% è prodotto in base all’iniziativa Better Cotton, ossia tramite un programma di formazione degli agricoltori coinvolti sulle modalità di coltivazione di questa pianta utilizzando meno acqua e meno sostanze dannose (nota: il cotone non è biologico). L’azienda prevede di impiegare il 100% di cotone ottenuto con questa modalità entro l’anno prossimo.

Altri modelli Levi’s affiancano al cotone il TENCEL Lyocell,  un tessuto ottenuto da polpa di legno ricavata da fonti vegetali certificate e controllate, con un processo di trasformazione chimica a circuito chiuso, ossia che ricicla l’acqua e riutilizza il solvente con una percentuale di recupero superiore al 99%. In alcuni modelli è utilizzata la tecnologia REFIBRA che affianca alla polpa di legno gli scarti di cotone per produrre il TENCEL Lyocell.

Levi’s da alcuni anni sta gradualmente introducendo iniziative per ridurre il consumo di acqua (Water Less technology), per limitare l’impiego di sostanze chimiche dannose (Screened Chemistry Program), per offrire ai clienti la possibilità di acquistare capi vintage (rimodellati da RE/DONE), oltre a iniziative che riguardano aspetti sociali (Levi’s sustainability ).

Nota per Levi’s: perché sul sito non aggiungete il tipo di tessuto tra i criteri di selezione dei capi, visto che sta diventando importante per tanti consumatori?

English: Levi’s introduces a percentage of hemp in the new collection

Levi’s presents some models of jacket (Trucker) and jeans (511 Slims) which contain 30% canapa together with cotton. The company defines the fabric as “cottonized hemp”. The introduction of a fiber obtained from a plant that requires less water alongside the “thirsty” cotton is a small step forward on the path to sustainability.

Regarding the cotton used by Levi’s, at the moment 34% is produced according to the Better Cotton initiative, ie through a training program for the farmers involved in cultivating this plant using less water and less harmful substances (note: the used cotton is not organic). The company plans to use 100% cotton obtained in this way by next year.

Other Levi’s models alongside cotton are made of TENCEL Lyocell, a fabric obtained from wood pulp from certified and controlled vegetable sources, with a closed-circuit chemical transformation process, which recycles water and reuses the solvent with a percentage of recovery over 99%. In some models the REFIBRA technology is used, which combines the wood pulp with cotton scraps to produce the TENCEL Lyocell.

For some years, Levi’s has been gradually introducing initiatives to reduce water consumption (Water Less technology), to limit the use of harmful chemicals (Screened Chemistry Program), to offer customers the opportunity to buy vintage clothes (reshaped by RE/DONE), as well as initiatives concerning social aspects ((Levi’s sustainability ).

Note for Levi’s: why don’t you add on your website the type of fabric among the selection criteria of the garments, since it is becoming important for many consumers?