“I want to dress all in hemp,” said Totò. Those were the times when advertising urged people not to let a precious fiber, Italy’s “green gold,” disappear. This is how Glenda Giampaoli, Director of the Hemp Museum in the municipality of Sant’Anatolia di Narco (Perugia), in Valnerina, takes us to explore the fascinating world of hemp.

With her, in this episode of the podcast we learn many curiosities about a plant that has historically been fundamental to the textile industry and discover why Italy, once a world leader in the production of this autarchic fiber, saw a decline at a certain point.

You will be surprised by Glenda’s stories about the traditions of Valnerina and curiosities about hemp: did you know that fabrics can last up to a hundred years?

In addition, we will explore traditional cultivation methods, which involved sowing and harvesting at specific times of the year and techniques such as maceration in water.

Today, interest in hemp is returning, thanks to the growing awareness of its potential applications in the food and green building sectors. We discuss the possibility of resuming hemp cultivation in Italy, in light of innovative projects that aim to relaunch it.

The Hemp Museum not only preserves traditions, but is actively dedicated to engaging new generations, offering workshops and educational activities. Don’t miss the opportunity to hear how projects are developing to resume hemp cultivation in Italy and learn more about the innovations that are emerging!

From historical magazines that tell the story of the importance of hemp in fashion, to curiosities about modern and sustainable uses, this episode is an invitation to rediscover an extraordinary fiber and its potential in the present and future.

Table of Contents

• Introduction to the Hemp Museum (min: 1:00)
• History of Hemp in Italy (min: 3:00)
• Traditional Cultivation and Processing Methods (min: 5:00)
• Decline and Rediscovery of Hemp (min: 8:00)
• Historical Magazines and the Decline of Hemp (min: 12:00)
• Why is Hemp Disappearing in Italy? (min: 14:13)
• New Materials and Social Changes (min: 16:01)
• Resumption of Hemp Cultivation (min: 23:59)
• Contemporary Projects and Innovations (min: 37:34)
• 1941 Magazine on Hemp (min: 45:50)

Visit the Hemp Museum and find out its website

Amid a growing movement in sustainable practices, Europe’s textile industry is revisiting its roots in hemp and flax (linen) production. These natural fibres offer a blend of environmental and economic benefits, from reducing carbon footprints to reviving local economies. In this article we will explore the resurgence of these fibres across Europe.

Historical Significance and Current Landscape  

Hemp and linen have been present in human civilization for thousands of years, with evidence suggesting linen use dating back as early as 30.000 years ago in Georgia, making it the oldest known textile in human history. In ancient Egypt, linen was so highly valued it even served as a currency and was a symbol of light and purity, prized for its coolness and breathability in hot climates. During the Middle Ages, Europe, particularly Belgium, the Netherlands, and France, became centres of linen production, benefiting from their favourable climates.

In Europe, hemp was a common crop until the late 19th century when it began losing ground to cheaper imported fibres, such as cotton and, later, synthetic alternatives. The decline in hemp cultivation was accelerated by political and economic shifts, particularly in the USA where the Marihuana Tax Act of 1937 heavily restricted hemp production. This legislation, coupled with similar policies in other countries, significantly reduced global hemp cultivation.

Despite this decline, regions like Flanders continue to uphold their reputation for producing high-quality linen. Today, approximately 1,500 farmers in Belgium cultivate flax, predominantly in Flanders, demonstrating a robust commitment to this enduring crop.

Today, North-Western Europe is the largest producer worldwide of linen. France, Belgium and the Netherlands together account for approximately 85% of the worlds flax cultivation for linen fibre production. The vast majority of this is located in France, which alone is responsible for about three-quarters of the world’s production of long flax fibres.

Sustainability and Environmental Impact 

Flax and hemp are considered highly sustainable crops, offering numerous environmental benefits which make them attractive options for eco-conscious farming and production methods. Both flax and hemp are drought-resistant crops that typically require less water than other major crops like cotton. Hemp, for instance, requires about half the amount of water than cotton does. Hemp typically needs around 2,401 liters of water per kilogram of fibre, while cotton needs approximately 9,758 litres needed for the same amount of cotton*.

Hemp and flax generally require fewer chemical pesticides and fertilizers compared to other crops. This leads to less chemicals leaking into local waterways, which can be harmful to aquatic life and ecosystems. Hemp also has a high resistance to pests and diseases, which minimizes the need for chemical interventions.

Linen, and hemp in particular, are both known for its ability to improve soil health. They have a deep root system that helps to prevent soil erosion and can return significant nutrients to the soil. This makes them beneficial for crop rotation, helping to maintain soil fertility and reduce the need for artificial fertilizers.

Both crops are effective at capturing carbon dioxide from the atmosphere, contributing to the mitigation of climate change and CO2 levels. The rapid growth rate of hemp makes it particularly efficient at carbon capture, which it stores in its biomass.

Furthermore, products made from flax and hemp are naturally biodegradable, meaning they break down into harmless substances that can be absorbed back into the ecosystem. This contrasts sharply with synthetic fibres, which can contribute to microplastic pollution.

Beyond textile production, both flax and hemp are very versatile in the way they can be processed for different types of products that can contribute to sustainable practices. Hemp, for example, can be used to produce bioplastics, and both hemp and linen can also be applied in construction materials (like hempcrete), paper, and even biofuels, which can lead to reduced dependence on fossil fuels.

Economic and Innovative Advantages 

The resurgence of flax and hemp is set to revive and strengthen local economies through job creation in agriculture and textile production, such as spinning and weaving mills. European initiatives, like the Alliance for European Flax and Linen, play an important role in fostering market unity and ensuring high standards across the continent. These efforts are complemented by local government and European Union support for sustainable agriculture and innovative textile technologies.

Case Studies and Examples

• France: The Alliance for European Flax and Linen is a driving force in the regional development of linen cultivation, promoting sustainable practices and enhancing market competitiveness. French linen is celebrated for its quality and eco-friendliness, with the country leading Europe and globally in both cultivation and innovative textile solutions.
• Belgium: Belgian linen remains a benchmark for quality worldwide. The concentration of flax cultivation in Flanders not only supports local agriculture but also preserves a vital cultural heritage. Efforts to reintegrate processing and production in Belgium aim to capitalize on the “grown and made in Europe” appeal.
• The Netherlands: Initiatives like the Linen Project, partnered with 1m2 Vlas project, and the Crafts Council Nederland, as well as collaborations with designers such as Joline Jolink highlight the country’s innovative approach to linen production. The 1m2 Vlas project, in particular, engages the community by engaging individuals to cultivate flax on small plots of land, promoting awareness and appreciation for the crop and nurturing a deeper relationship and respect to where our clothes come from and the amount of work that goes into creating a single garment.
• Italy: Italian initiatives, supported by the Alliance for European Flax-Linen & Hemp, promote hemp and linen as sustainable textiles. Regions like Biella, known for textile craftsmanship, are central, blending traditional skills with modern practices.
• USA: The USA Linen Project supports American farmers in cultivating high-quality flax, aiming to establish a fully integrated supply chain that mirrors the European model for sustainable textile production.

Challenges and Future Outlook 

While hemp and flax offer substantial environmental and economic advantages, they face several hurdles. Regulatory restrictions linked to hemp’s association with cannabis complicate its cultivation and distribution, stalling industry growth. Additionally, a decline in traditional farming practices means there is now a crucial need to re-educate farmers and develop new agricultural methods.

Competing with cheaper synthetic fibres and cotton remains a challenge. Consumer education and marketing are essential to overcome these barriers. Furthermore, revitalizing the flax and hemp industries requires considerable investments in processing technology, as the high costs of state-of-the-art equipment can deter potential investors.

Despite these challenges, the future of the hemp and flax looks promising. Increasing consumer demand for sustainable and ethically produced goods, coupled with advancements in processing technologies, could enhance the competitiveness of these fibres. With increasing global focus on sustainability, supportive governmental policies are more likely to emerge, facilitating the growth of eco-friendly crops. Enhanced collaboration between industries, governments, and academic institutions is also expected to drive innovation and market expansion

Conclusions

The revitalization of hemp and flax in Europe symbolizes more than a return to traditional materials; it represents a strategic move towards a sustainable and economically robust textile industry. By investing in these crops, Europe is not only reclaiming its heritage but also setting a global standard for environmental stewardship and innovative industrial practices. As this trend gains momentum, it presents an opportunity for Europe to lead the textile industry into a greener, more sustainable future.

Inge Duiker

*Source: EIHA, European Industrial Hemp Association

Photo: cover, Tsuyoshi Kozu; Sergey Semin; Micheile Henderson; Isabela Kronemberger

 Puoi ascoltare qui l’articolo: Audio-à-porter – Maeko

Incontro Cinzia (Vismara) negli uffici di Maeko a Milano, sede della vulcanica attività di questa azienda tessile tutta italiana. Resto subito travolta dall’energia e dall’entusiasmo che lei e il marito Mauro (Vismara) pongono in questo progetto in cui credono molto, a costo di andare contro tendenza nell’attuale contesto industriale.

Maeko produce dal 1998 tessuti naturali di alta qualità a filiera controllata, impegnandosi  nello sviluppo di un’economia sostenibile rispettosa dell’ambiente e dell’individuo. Etro, Vivienne Westwood, Ferragamo sono alcuni dei marchi che utilizzano i tessuti di Maeko per le loro creazioni. Canapa, ortica, soia, crabyon, bambù, lino, cotone biologico, seta tousac, filato di latte, lana di yak, lane di pecora, alpaca e capra italiane: gli occhi scintillano tra rotoli e campioni di questi meravigliosi tessuti, impossibile resistere alla tentazione di toccare con mano la morbidezza di gomitoli e stoppini (sottili bande di fibra tessile). La canapa qui è la regina, a lei dedicano una festa speciale ogni anno, da lei tutto è iniziato quando ha colpito con la sua bellezza Mauro e lo ha spinto verso un nuovo percorso professionale (era osteopata), affascinato dai tessuti indossati dalle persone provenienti dall’Oriente che incontrava. È con la canapa che comincia l’avventura sostenibile di Maeko, dalla ricerca dei filati orientali, perché nei pochi paesi dell’est europeo in cui sono disponibili sono più grossolani. Abbiamo infatti perso, soprattutto in Italia, macchinari, conoscenze e abilità che una volta ci facevano eccellere nella produzione di filati di canapa, oltre che nella coltivazione della canapa stessa a uso tessile, mi spiega Cinzia.

Non si fermano alla produzione di tessuti e qualche anno fa acquistano una piccola e ben avviata tintoria industriale a Bregnano (Como), per fornire anche tutti i servizi tintoriali necessari per completare i processi utili alla produzione di tessuti finiti.

Dal 1998 la tessitura rientra nelle attività di Maeko, con l’affitto di telai, e da allora non si sono mai fermati. “Era un momento tristissimo per il settore, abbiamo rimesso i telai a funzionare per la tessitura della canapa e da quasi vent’anni lavorano per Maeko”, dice Cinzia.

Nel 2014 parte il progetto ambizioso RIFILOC, volto alla produzione del filato di canapa: insieme a due soci, l’agronomo Alessandro Mondello e l’agricoltore Andrea Cocca, Maeko aspira con passione e determinazione a far ripartire la storica produzione di canapa per uso tessile in Italia. A San Mauro Pascoli è infatti avviata la coltivazione biologica di circa 40 ettari di questa pianta e in parte di ortica.

In un instancabile vortice di energie e con un enorme entusiasmo nei progetti in cui credono fortemente, quest’anno compiono un passo ulteriore: hanno acquistato un’azienda di filatura a Biella. L’idea è di impegnarsi in una filiera produttiva integrata con cura, trasparente, avendo tutto in casa (al momento acquistano fibre da filare anche dall’esterno), dalla coltivazione alla fibra al filato al tessuto alla tintura, “per garantire un’agricoltura consapevole, una tessitura cosciente e capace in un prodotto completamente Made in Italy”, racconta Cinzia. “Ma l’acquisto aveva anche l’obiettivo di salvare l’attività portata avanti con maestria da una famiglia che da due generazioni vi lavora come se fosse un’oreficeria”, consentendo così al personale e al figlio del proprietario di continuare a lavorare senza interrompere la tradizione familiare.

Dalla cardatura delle lane nascono nastri, nastri fiammati, nastri con bottoni. Dalla ripettinatura, effettuata in un laboratorio esterno, sono creati prodotti come agugliati e stoppini, ma anche alcuni sottoprodotti tra cui imbottiti, isolanti e concime biologico, “ottenuto dal gruppo Giovani ingegneri torinesi, sciogliendo gli scarti inutilizzabili e sporchi della lana in una gigantesca pentola a pressione”, descrive Cinzia. “Non si butta via niente!”, esclamo. “Non c’è niente da buttare!”, mi corregge. Dalla filatura pettinata delle altre fibre nascono filati vegetali, animali e artificiali (per esempio dal nylon o dal poliestere riciclato usato nella mischia intima). Ogni tessuto riporta la precisa composizione, indicando anche percentuali minime (3-4%) di poliestere riciclato in ottica di totale trasparenza.

“Non c’era niente, anni fa su questo tavolo su cui stiamo parlando non avevamo nulla, solo dei pezzetti di tessuto e oggi possiamo acquistare un’azienda di filatura, salvandola. In tutte le cose che facciamo ci crediamo, a costo di rimanere in mutande. Abbiamo lo stesso coraggio e la stessa determinazione del primo giorno. E anche la stessa incoscienza!“, mi spiega con orgoglio Cinzia, guardando intorno ciò che hanno creato. Quando le chiedo se ci sono altre novità in vista, mi risponde a ragione: “Più di così?”, ma la guardo e capisco che non si fermano mai. Sono infatti alla ricerca di soci, disposti a imparare riguardo tutto il processo, dall’inizio alla fine, entrando a far parte come un tassello che completa il mosaico intero, “dove tutti gli attori hanno uguale importanza e fanno parte dello stesso progetto”, precisa Cinzia. In questo momento cercano anche allevatori di animali da lana, in particolare in Sardegna, da aggiungere a quelli con cui già lavorano in diverse zone d’Italia (Val d’Aosta, Lombardia, Toscana, Marche e Puglia), che dovranno garantire precisi criteri di tosatura, di cernita della lana e anche di alimentazione degli animali.

La sua straordinaria energia mi ha contagiata, non solo attraverso il racconto dell’impegno di Maeko e l’affascinante descrizione dei filati, ma anche coinvolgendomi in un interessante confronto su altri temi: con lei parli di tutto, di episodi di vita, di cibo, di viaggi. Accanto a noi Giovanna, amica e compagna di lavoro di Cinzia da tanto tempo, lavora senza sosta preparando con cura i campioni da spedire. Grazie per l’accoglienza e seguiremo i vostri progetti!

Link: https://www.maekotessuti.com

English – A whole Italian story: We met Maeko to find out more on sustainable fabrics and their ambitious project

I met Cinzia (Vismara) in the offices of Maeko in Milan, headquarter of the volcanic activity of this whole Italian textile company. I am immediately overwhelmed by the energy and enthusiasm that she and her husband Mauro (Vismara) place in this project in which they believe a lot, at the cost of going against the trend in the current industrial context.

Maeko has been producing high quality natural fabrics with a controlled supply chain since 1998, engaging in the development of a sustainable economy that respects the environment and the individual. Etro, Vivienne Westwood, Ferragamo are some of the brands that use Maeko fabrics for their creations. Hemp, nettle, soy, crabyon, bamboo, linen, organic cotton, tousac silk, milk yarn, yak, Italian sheep, alpaca and goat wool: the eyes sparkle between rolls and samples of these wonderful fabrics, it’s impossible to resist the temptation to touch the softness of wool balls and roving (thin bands of textile fiber). The hemp here is the queen, they dedicate a special party to her every year, from her it all started when she struck Mauro with her beauty and pushed him towards a new professional path (he was an osteopath), fascinated by the fabrics worn by people coming from the East he met. It is with hemp that the sustainable adventure of Maeko begins, from the search for oriental yarns, because in the few Eastern European countries in which they are available they are rougher. In fact we have lost, especially in Italy, machinery, knowledge and skills that once made us excel in the production of hemp yarns, as well as in the cultivation of hemp itself for textile use, Cinzia explains.

They did not stop at the production of fabrics and a few years ago they bought a small and well-established industrial dye-works in Bregnano (Como), in order to provide also all the dyeing services necessary to complete the processes useful for the production of finished fabrics.

Since 1998, weaving is part of Maeko’s activities, with the rental of looms, and since then they have never stopped. “It was a very sad moment for the sector, we put the looms back to work for weaving hemp and for almost twenty years they have been working for Maeko,” says Cinzia.

In 2014, the ambitious project RIFILOC, aimed at the production of hemp yarn, starts: together with two partners, the agronomist Alessandro Mondello and the farmer Andrea Cocca, Maeko aspires with passion and determination to restart the historical production of hemp for textile use in Italy. In San Mauro Pascoli the biological cultivation of about 40 hectares of this plant and partly of nettle has started.

In a tireless whirlwind of energies and with enormous enthusiasm in the projects in which they strongly believe, this year they took a further step: they bought a spinning company in Biella. The idea is to engage in a carefully integrated, transparent production chain, having everything internally (at the moment they buy fibers to be spun also from the outside), from cultivation to fiber to yarn to fabric to dyeing, “To ensure an aware agriculture, and a conscious and capable weaving in a completely Made in Italy product”, says Cinzia. “But the purchase also had the objective of saving the activity carried out with mastery by a family, that for two generations has been working there as if it were a goldsmith”, thus allowing the owner’s personnel and his son to continue working without interrupting the family tradition.

Ribbons, slub ribbons and ribbons with buttons are born from wool carding. From recombing, carried out in an external laboratory, products such as needle-punched felt and wool roving are created, but also some by-products including padded and insulating materials and also biological fertilizer, “Obtained by the group Giovani ingegneri torinesi (Young Turin engineers), by dissolving unusable and dirty wool waste in a giant pressure cooker”, describes Cinzia. “Nothing is thrown away!”, I exclaim. “There’s nothing to throw away!”, she corrects me. From the combed spinning of the other fibres, vegetable, animal and artificial (for example from nylon or recycled polyester used in intimate mixes) yarns are born. Each fabric has the precise composition, also indicating minimum percentages (3-4%) of recycled polyester with a view to total transparency.

“There was nothing, years ago on this table we are talking beside, we had nothing, only bits of fabric and today we can buy a spinning company, rescuing it. In all the things we do we believe in it, at the cost of losing our shirt. We have the same courage and the same determination as the first day. And also the same thoughtlessness!“, Cinzia proudly explains, looking around at what they have created. When I ask her if there are other news arriving, she rightly replies: “More than this?”, but I look at her and I understand that they never stop. They are in fact looking for partners, willing to learn about the whole process, from the beginning to the end, joining as a piece that completes the entire mosaic, “Where all the actors have equal importance and are part of the same project”, specifies Cinzia. At this moment they are also looking for breeders of wool animals, particularly in Sardinia, to be added to those with whom they already work in different areas of Italy (Val d’Aosta, Lombardy, Tuscany, Marche and Puglia), which will have to guarantee precise criteria of shearing, sorting of wool and also feeding of animals. Her extraordinary energy has infected me, not only through the story of Maeko’s commitment and the fascinating description of the yarns, but also by involving me in an interesting comparison on other topics: with her you talk about everything, about life episodes, about food , of travel. Alongside us, Giovanna, Cinzia’s friend and colleague for a long time, is tirelessly working preparing carefully the samples to be sent. Thanks for the welcome and we will follow your projects!

Link: https://www.maekotessuti.com

(Pictures: from Maeko’s Instagram profile)

Levi’s presenta nella nuova collezione alcuni modelli di giacca (Trucker) e di jeans (511 Slims) che contengono il 30% di canapa insieme al cotone. L’azienda definisce il tessuto “canapa cotonata”. L’introduzione accanto all’ “assetato” cotone di una fibra ottenuta da una pianta che richiede meno acqua è un piccolo passo avanti nel percorso verso la sostenibilità.

Riguardo il cotone utilizzato da Levi’s, al momento il 34% è prodotto in base all’iniziativa Better Cotton, ossia tramite un programma di formazione degli agricoltori coinvolti sulle modalità di coltivazione di questa pianta utilizzando meno acqua e meno sostanze dannose (nota: il cotone non è biologico). L’azienda prevede di impiegare il 100% di cotone ottenuto con questa modalità entro l’anno prossimo.

Altri modelli Levi’s affiancano al cotone il TENCEL Lyocell,  un tessuto ottenuto da polpa di legno ricavata da fonti vegetali certificate e controllate, con un processo di trasformazione chimica a circuito chiuso, ossia che ricicla l’acqua e riutilizza il solvente con una percentuale di recupero superiore al 99%. In alcuni modelli è utilizzata la tecnologia REFIBRA che affianca alla polpa di legno gli scarti di cotone per produrre il TENCEL Lyocell.

Levi’s da alcuni anni sta gradualmente introducendo iniziative per ridurre il consumo di acqua (Water Less technology), per limitare l’impiego di sostanze chimiche dannose (Screened Chemistry Program), per offrire ai clienti la possibilità di acquistare capi vintage (rimodellati da RE/DONE), oltre a iniziative che riguardano aspetti sociali (Levi’s sustainability ).

Nota per Levi’s: perché sul sito non aggiungete il tipo di tessuto tra i criteri di selezione dei capi, visto che sta diventando importante per tanti consumatori?

English: Levi’s introduces a percentage of hemp in the new collection

Levi’s presents some models of jacket (Trucker) and jeans (511 Slims) which contain 30% canapa together with cotton. The company defines the fabric as “cottonized hemp”. The introduction of a fiber obtained from a plant that requires less water alongside the “thirsty” cotton is a small step forward on the path to sustainability.

Regarding the cotton used by Levi’s, at the moment 34% is produced according to the Better Cotton initiative, ie through a training program for the farmers involved in cultivating this plant using less water and less harmful substances (note: the used cotton is not organic). The company plans to use 100% cotton obtained in this way by next year.

Other Levi’s models alongside cotton are made of TENCEL Lyocell, a fabric obtained from wood pulp from certified and controlled vegetable sources, with a closed-circuit chemical transformation process, which recycles water and reuses the solvent with a percentage of recovery over 99%. In some models the REFIBRA technology is used, which combines the wood pulp with cotton scraps to produce the TENCEL Lyocell.

For some years, Levi’s has been gradually introducing initiatives to reduce water consumption (Water Less technology), to limit the use of harmful chemicals (Screened Chemistry Program), to offer customers the opportunity to buy vintage clothes (reshaped by RE/DONE), as well as initiatives concerning social aspects ((Levi’s sustainability ).

Note for Levi’s: why don’t you add on your website the type of fabric among the selection criteria of the garments, since it is becoming important for many consumers?

 Puoi ascoltare qui l’articolo: Canapa

Ci chiediamo se davvero questa fibra sia sostenibile e da inserire nel nostro guardaroba più responsabile.

La canapa è un tipo di “fibra di rafia” che significa che è una delle numerose fibre naturali derivate dal fusto della pianta, come il lino, la iuta e l’ortica. La sua fibra è simile alla tela di lino.

La canapa è coltivata da migliaia di anni in quasi tutti i continenti. Si pensa sia la più antica pianta coltivata al mondo. Sono stati trovati tessuti di canapa datati circa 8.000 a.C., rappresentando così uno degli esempi più antichi di industria. Fino agli anni ’20, l’80% dell’abbigliamento era realizzato con la canapa. Anche i jeans Levi Strauss erano inizialmente realizzati con una tela di canapa leggera.

Attualmente, più di 30 paesi coltivano questa pianta. La maggior parte dei produttori sono in Cina, Canada, Cile, Corea ed Europa (soprattutto nei paesi dell’Europa orientale come Romania, Ungheria e Russia, oltre che in Francia e Italia).

Nel 1940 l’Italia dedicava alla coltura della canapa 90.000 ettari del proprio territorio, poi la coltivazione è stata abbandonata. Dal 1940 al 1970, le superfici sono scese a circa 900 ettari.  Dal 2016, anno in cui la coltivazione è diventata legale, la quantità di terreno dedicata a questa pianta è cresciuta fino ai 4.000 ettari di oggi.

Il principale produttore mondiale è la Cina, da cui proviene oltre la metà della produzione. Qui si utilizzano metodi chimici, mentre in Europa sono state introdotte tecnologie più pulite di tipo biologico. Non si ottiene morbidezza e il colore totalmente bianco del cotone con nessuno dei due metodi, ecco perché spesso la canapa è mischiata al cotone, un tessuto non molto sostenibile. Meglio perciò verificare l’etichetta quando acquistate un capo di abbigliamento in questo materiale.

La canapa ha davvero tanti aspetti positivi:

• È biodegradabile, diversamente dalle fibre sintetiche, per cui non inquina una volta terminato il suo ciclo di vita come succede con i tessuti derivati dal petrolio.
• La sua coltivazione non richiede pesticidi, fertilizzanti sintetici, semi OGM né prodotti chimici. È densamente coltivata, soffoca le piante in competizione bloccando la luce del sole con le sue ampie foglie, per cui non sono necessari forti erbicidi chimici. Inoltre, riduce naturalmente i parassiti, rendendo superflui i pesticidi. Attualmente una grande quantità di canapa è coltivata biologicamente, senza bisogno di alcun additivo agricolo sintetico.
• Ha bisogno di pochissima acqua e cresce rapidamente utilizzando il 50% in meno di acqua rispetto al cotone.
• Richiede una quantità relativamente limitata di terra da coltivare. Ha una resa in fibra che arriva fino al doppio rispetto al cotone: un ettaro di canapa produce la stessa fibra ricavabile da quattro ettari di alberi o due ettari di cotone.
• Può essere coltivata in ogni stagione e ad ogni ciclo di crescita si rinnova restituendo il 60-70% dei nutrienti necessari che prende dal terreno: pian piano matura e il fogliame che cade si decompone nutrendo il suolo. Le sue lunghe radici aerano il terreno a beneficio delle colture future, eliminano le tossine e prevenendo anche l’erosione del suolo. Si utilizza al meglio in un raccolto a rotazione, con soia, sorgo, ecc. L’apparato radicale e il fogliame restituiscono l’azoto tanto importante per i terreni sempre più sfruttati.
• Le piante di canapa assorbono più anidride carbonica degli alberi e possono rimuovere le tossine dal suolo attraverso le radici. La canapa fornisce un habitat eccellente per la fauna selvatica e i fiori sono una buona fonte di polline per le api.
• Nulla della canapa viene sprecato nel processo produttivo: i semi sono utilizzati in prodotti alimentari o integratori, i fiori e le foglie nella cosmesi, i gambi nella produzione di fibra naturale.
• Tiene chi lo indossa caldo d’inverno e fresco d’estate. Le fibre di canapa hanno il miglior rapporto di capacità termica rispetto a tutte le altre fibre, creando un sistema di aria condizionata personale.
• È antimicrobica, antibatterica, antiodore, ipoallergenica, assorbe l’umidità del corpo e non irrita la pelle.
• Protegge dai raggi UV.
• È resiliente, duratura, flessibile, non perde forma anche dopo più lavaggi. La canapa è anche naturalmente resistente alla muffa, all’usura, allo sporco, al restringimento e ai danni del sole. Le fibre di canapa sono più resistenti del cotone, poiché percorrono la lunghezza del gambo che può arrivare fino a circa mezzo metro mentre quelle del cotone tendono ad essere lunghe solo pochi centimetri. Per questo i sacchi di canapa durano di più e la tela era utilizzata in marina e dai pescatori per le prime vele, per corde e reti. Queste sono qualità importanti quando si sceglie un involucro per trasportare gli oggetti a cui più teniamo, come borse porta computer o i nostri effetti personali in viaggio.

La canapa è quindi un tessuto che possiamo considerare sostenibile. Vogliamo trovarne difetti? Come il lino, la canapa si stropiccia facilmente, può essere un po’ ruvida, assorbe poco colore. Per questi motivi la canapa é a volte mescolata con altri tessuti, per cui come dicevamo all’inizio meglio verificare in etichetta prima di acquistare!

English – Hemp: is it really a sustainable fibre to be included in our more responsible wardrobe?

We wonder if this fibre is really sustainable and if should be included in our more responsible wardrobe.

Hemp is a type of “raffia fibre” which means that it is one of several natural fibres derived from the stem of the plant, such as flax, jute and nettle. Its fiber is similar to linen.

Hemp has been cultivated for thousands of years on almost every continent. It is thought to be the oldest cultivated plant in the world. Hemp fabrics dating from around 8,000 BC have been found, representing one of the oldest examples of industry. Until the 1920s, 80% of clothing was made with hemp. Even the Levi Strauss jeans were initially made with a light canvas.

Currently, more than 30 countries grow this plant. Most producers are in China, Canada, Chile, Korea and Europe (especially in Eastern European countries such as Romania, Hungary and Russia, as well as in France and Italy).

In 1940 Italy dedicated 90,000 hectares of its territory to the cultivation of hemp, then the cultivation was abandoned. From 1940 to 1970, the surfaces fell to around 900 hectares. Since 2016, the year in which cultivation became legal, the amount of land dedicated to this plant has grown to 4,000 hectares today.

The main world producer is China, from which more than half of the production comes. Here chemical methods are used, while in Europe cleaner biological technologies have been introduced. You don’t get softness and the totally white color of cotton with neither of the two methods, that’s why hemp is often mixed with cotton, a not very sustainable fabric. It is therefore better to check the label when buying a piece of clothing in this material.

Hemp has really many positive aspects:

• It is biodegradable, unlike synthetic fibers, so it does not pollute once its life cycle is over, as happens with petroleum-derived fabrics.
• Its cultivation does not require pesticides, synthetic fertilizers, GMO seeds or chemicals. It is densely cultivated, suffocating competing plants by blocking sunlight with its broad leaves, so no strong chemical herbicides are needed. In addition, it naturally reduces pests, making pesticides superfluous. Currently a large quantity of hemp is cultivated organically, without the need for any synthetic agricultural additives.
• It needs very little water and grows rapidly using 50% less water than cotton.
• It requires a relatively limited amount of land to cultivate. It has a fiber yield that reaches up to twice as much as cotton: one hectare of hemp produces the same fiber that can be obtained from four hectares of trees or two hectares of cotton.
• It can be grown in every season and at each growth cycle it is renewed by returning 60-70% of the necessary nutrients that it takes from the soil: it gradually matures and the falling foliage decomposes nourishing the soil. Its long roots aerate the soil for the benefit of future crops, eliminate toxins and also prevent soil erosion. It is best used in a crop in rotation, with soy, sorghum, etc. The root system and the foliage return the nitrogen that is so important for increasingly exploited land.
• Hemp plants absorb more carbon dioxide than trees and can remove toxins from the soil through the roots. Hemp provides an excellent habitat for wildlife and flowers are a good source of pollen for bees.
• Nothing about hemp is wasted in the production process: the seeds are used in food or supplements, flowers and leaves in cosmetics, stems in the production of natural fibre.
• It keeps the wearer warm in winter and cool in summer. Hemp fibres have the best heat capacity ratio compared to all other fibres, creating a personal air conditioning system.
• It is antimicrobial, antibacterial, anti-odor, hypoallergenic, absorbs body moisture and does not irritate the skin.
• Protects against UV rays.
• It is resilient, durable, flexible, it does not lose shape even after multiple washes. Hemp is also naturally resistant to mold, wear, dirt, shrinkage and sun damage. Hemp fibres are more resistant than cotton, as they travel the length of the stem which can reach up to about half a meter while those of cotton tend to be only a few centimetres long. This is why hemp sacks last longer and the canvas was used in the navy and by fishermen for the first sails, ropes and nets. These are important qualities when choosing a wrapper to carry the items we hold most, such as computer bags or our personal belongings when traveling.

Hemp is therefore a fabric that we can consider sustainable. Do we want to find flaws? Like flax, hemp is easily rubbed, it can be a bit rough, it absorbs little color. For these reasons hemp is sometimes mixed with other fabrics, so as we said at the beginning it is better to check on the label before buying!