The results of the “Spinning Greenwash” study

The Changing Markets Foundation, a nonprofit organization working on environmental sustainability, commissioned research from the Microplastic Research Group at Çukurova University (Turkey) to compare the release of microplastics between recycled and virgin polyester fabrics. The results reveal a surprising and worrying situation:
The recycled polyester garments tested released an average of approximately 55% more microfibers than those made from virgin polyester during wash cycles.

In terms of average quantity, the study recorded approximately 12,430 microfibers per gram in recycled fabrics, compared to 8,028 microfibers per gram in virgin polyester.

The microfibers released from recycled fabrics are smaller—with an average length of approximately 0.42 mm versus 0.52 mm—making them more easily dispersed and potentially more harmful to ecosystems and human health.

The 51 items analyzed came from five major fashion brands — Adidas, H&M, Nike, Shein, and Zara — and included items such as t-shirts, tops, dresses, and shorts.

What does this mean for the environment?

Microplastics are a globally recognized environmental problem: they are found in soil, waterways, and oceans, but also in living organisms, including human tissue, and are associated with potentially adverse effects on biological systems.

A single wash cycle can release hundreds of thousands of microfibers into wastewater, which treatment systems struggle to fully filter, allowing these particles to enter the environmental and food chains.

Where do all those tiny microfibers end up?

The answer is everywhere. Not just in the seas and rivers, but also in the air we breathe, in the soil of our fields, in the most remote sediments, even in the organic tissues of living beings. According to an Italian report on micro and nanoplastics in the human body (Vera Studio 2024), synthetic textiles are among the most significant sources of microplastics linked to home laundry processes, and certain technical steps like pre-washing can release far greater quantities of microfibers than simple washing and rinsing.

This is the reality: what we wear, wash, and use every day comes into contact with environments we can no longer separate from our daily lives. Yet, amid this scientific reality, some marketing narratives remain reassuring. The Changing Markets Foundation uses a powerful symbolic image to describe many companies’ communications: it calls it a “sustainability fig leaf,” a fig leaf that covers a deep dependence on synthetic materials without properly addressing the problem of microplastics (The Ecologist). And the message comes from an authoritative voice: Urska Trunk, senior campaign manager at Changing Markets, told The Ecologist very clearly that “fashion has sold recycled polyester as a green solution, yet our findings show it exacerbates the problem of microplastic pollution.”

Why is this phrase so important? Because it directly challenges the core of the global textile industry’s green narrative. It’s not about demonizing recycling—but about highlighting the fact that sustainability cannot be a superficial promise, based on catchy claims, if products continue to release significant amounts of microplastics.

And this awareness isn’t just for scientists or environmentalists. It’s about us, our consumption, our washing habits, and, ultimately, the future of our communities and the planet we inhabit.

Why does recycled material release more microplastics?

According to the authors of the Changing Markets study, the difference can be traced back to the structural characteristics of recycled fibers. During recycling processes—both mechanical and chemical—the polyester polymer chains shorten and weaken, making the fibers more fragile and prone to breakage. This leads to a greater release of microfibers during use and washing.

Labeling and transparency: another critical issue

The Changing Markets study also found discrepancies in brand claims: some garments advertised as being made from recycled polyester exhibited shedding behavior similar to that of virgin fabrics. In some cases, online labels and descriptions did not match the fiber information physically displayed on the garments, raising concerns about potentially misleading marketing practices.

What Other Research Says

In addition to the Changing Markets Foundation study, other scientific research is helping to clarify the situation, showing that recycled polyester is not automatically a better solution in terms of microfiber release. A study published in Environmental Pollution in 2024 found that, during home washing, recycled polyester garments can release more microfibers than virgin polyester ones, likely due to the lower mechanical strength of fibers subjected to recycling and heat treatments. Analyses conducted by The Microfibre Consortium confirm this trend in several cases, indicating, in some samples, a release of up to twice as many microfibers, often finer in size and therefore potentially more impactful on ecosystems and the food chain. However, the data also show strong variability: fabric structure, yarn type, production processes, and washing conditions significantly influence the results, with some tests showing less marked differences between virgin and recycled materials.

Overall, the scientific literature converges on one key point: polyester recycling reduces upstream plastic waste, but it does not solve—and can sometimes exacerbate—the problem of microplastic dispersion, confirming the need for a broader approach that includes material innovation, responsible textile design, and strategies to overall reduce the amount of synthetic fibers in circulation.

Microfibers and the Fabric Life Cycle: Beyond Home Washing

When discussing microplastics and microfibers, the common debate often focuses on release during home washing. However, recent research highlights that several stages of textile production are also significant sources of microfiber emissions. A study published in Scientific Reports monitored microfiber emissions in a large textile manufacturing plant and found that wet processing—such as dyeing and finishing—can release up to 25 times more microfibers than home washing cycles, with dyeing accounting for over 95% of emissions under some conditions. These findings suggest that the environmental impact of textiles is not reduced simply by changing the type of fiber (virgin or recycled), but requires optimization and mitigation from the earliest stages of production, for example, through lower dyeing temperatures, shorter process times, and the use of yarns and textile structures that minimize fiber shedding.

How Garment Care and Design Influence Microfiber Release

The amount of microfibers released from a garment depends not only on the material, but also on manufacturing techniques and care conditions. Different cutting and sewing methods, as well as washing conditions, can significantly influence the release of microplastics into the environment. Research published in Science of the Total Environment (2023, R Rathinamoorthy, S Raja Balasaraswathi) demonstrated that the use of more advanced cutting techniques such as laser or ultrasonic cutting can reduce microfiber release by up to 15–20 times compared to traditional scissors, while choosing specific stitch patterns and stitch densities can further reduce fraying. The use of multiple needles increases the release of microfibers across different variations of the same stitch pattern. For example, a 45.27% increase in microfiber release was reported with the 4-thread (2-needle) overlock stitch compared to the 3-thread (1-needle) stitch.

Furthermore, studies conducted on actual laundry loads (Science of the Total Environment, 2023, R Rathinamoorthy, S Raja Balasaraswathi) indicate that parameters such as temperature and cycle length influence the amount of microfibers released, with shorter, colder cycles, full loads, and high-efficiency washing machines reducing release. These findings highlight how changes in garment design and household care practices can help reduce microplastic shedding, complementing efforts to develop more sustainable materials.

An illusory solution or an intermediate step?

The findings of the Changing Markets study do not imply that all recycled materials are useless or that recycling has no value. Rather, they highlight a critical point: reducing environmental impact cannot be solely achieved by transitioning to “recycled” materials if they continue to release significant microplastics.

In other words, if the goal is a truly sustainable textile system, it is necessary to consider:

• design strategies that minimize the release of microfibers (e.g., low-release yarns, more compact textile structures, and less degrading finishes);
• technologies for capturing microfibers in domestic and industrial washing processes;
• an overall reduction in reliance on synthetic fibers—recycled or otherwise—in favor of alternative materials with a lower microplastic impact.

What we can do, concretely

For brands
• design garments with low-linting yarns and more compact structures;
• improve industrial processes, especially dyeing and finishing;
• adopt less fraying cutting and sewing techniques;
• communicate clearly and verifiably;
• invest in microfiber-capturing technologies in industrial laundries and supply chains.

For fashion buyers and consumers
• wash at low temperatures and shorter cycles;
• prefer full loads;
• use more efficient washing machines when possible;
• consider using certified filters or microfiber-capturing devices;
• above all: reduce dependence on fast fashion and synthetics, even recycled ones.
It’s not “buying nothing anymore.”
It’s buying better, less, more consciously.

Toward a broader vision of sustainability

This research is part of a broader debate on sustainability strategies in the fashion industry, which requires integrated and transparent approaches. It’s not just about replacing raw material A with B, but about rethinking production, consumption, and end-of-life models of garments with a truly circular perspective.
For consumers and industry professionals, the study is an invitation to look beyond “recycled” labels and evaluate concrete, independent data to make choices that truly make a difference.

On average, a whopping 82% of textile waste was post-consumer waste, household and non-household sources combined, followed by an additional post-industrial waste (17%) and pre-consumer waste, accounting for 1% (European Environment Agency, 2024).

Currently, only 22% of post-consumer textile waste in Europe is collected for reuse or recycling, with about 85% of Europe’s discarded textiles ending up in landfills or incinerated (McKinsey & Company, 2022).

These figures highlight the urgent need to invest in and scale up sorting and recycling capacities in Europe. Without such efforts, an increasing amount of collected textile waste risks being sent to the Global South, where it often ends up in landfills, further polluting the environment.

Countries like Germany, France, and Italy are at the forefront of addressing this challenge through a combination of innovative solutions, legislative frameworks, and industry collaborations. Let’s have a look into the different approaches of these three countries and how they can serve as a blueprint globally.

Germany – Efficiency and Challenges in Textile Waste Management

Germany is recognized as a leader in waste management, yet the country faces significant challenges with textile waste. Germans consume approximately 19 kilograms of textiles per person annually, generating around 1.56 million tonnes of textile waste each year (McKinsey & Company, 2022). Despite a national collection rate of around 64%, the majority of textiles collected are exported, often to countries in the global south with less developed waste management infrastructures (Umweltbundesamt T. 3., 2022). Projections indicate that by 2025, textile waste per capita in Germany will increase to 17 kilograms, nearing two million tonnes annually (bvse).

The primary collection method in Germany happens through depot containers, which account for 88% of collected textiles. However, the high operational costs and declining quality of collected textiles pose significant challenges to the recycling process. The amount of textiles identified as waste during sorting has doubled, while reused textiles decreased by 7% in 2020 compared to 2015 (bvse).

Additionally, in cities like Berlin, there is a culture of “zu verschenken,” where people leave their old clothes and other items on the street for others to take for free. While this practice is well-intentioned, it often results in clothes being left in poor condition, effectively becoming waste. This underscores the growing need to raise awareness among citizens about how and where to properly dispose of old garments.

France – A Frontrunner in Legislation

France has been a pioneer in legislative efforts to address textile waste, becoming the first country in the world to establish a legal framework for managing textile waste through an Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) policy as early as 2007. With this framework, all businesses producing clothing and textiles for the French market are responsible for the end-of-life management of their products (King, 2024). However, while this law represents a significant step forward, its effectiveness is limited because compliance is voluntary for the industry. A more binding framework covering the entire supply chain would likely be more effective in ensuring widespread adherence.

In 2022, France strengthened its commitment to waste reduction with the implementation of the Anti-Waste and Circular Economy Law. This law mandates that producers, importers, and distributors must give, reuse, or recycle their unsold products. It also introduces measures such as requiring items to be repairable, compostable, or recyclable, with sanctions for non-compliance. Additionally, the law mandates that plastic filters be installed in washing machines by 2025 to limit the release of microfibers into the ocean, significantly reducing pollution (COSH!, 2022).

France’s EPR scheme for textiles is managed by Refashion, a Producer Responsibility Organization (PRO) accredited by French authorities. Refashion oversees the collection, recycling, and disposal of textiles, with over 44,000 collection points across the country (King, 2024; Wilson, 2021). Despite this robust infrastructure, the recycling operations are not yet fully industrialized or profitable, underscoring the need for continued investment in sorting and recycling technologies to manage the growing volumes of textile waste.

One of the significant gaps in France’s EPR system is the monitoring of used clothing sold through online platforms, which complicates the recycling process. Addressing this gap, along with measures such as their tax on fast fashion, could enhance the effectiveness of France’s efforts to manage textile waste and promote a more sustainable fashion industry.

Italy – Tradition Meets Innovation

Italy is recognized for its rich textile heritage, particularly in regions like Prato, which has become a leader in textile recycling and waste management. Prato has developed an extensive system for processing post-consumer textiles, mainly focusing on wool recycling. The city houses several small and medium-sized businesses that specialize in different stages of textile production and recycling. This region is responsible for recycling a significant portion of Italy’s textile waste, with figures indicating that Prato processes approximately 22,000 tonnes of wool each year (ETC CE Report, 2024; Dahlbom et al., 2023).

In terms of overall textile waste management, Italy produced about 480,000 tonnes of textile waste in 2019, with 50% coming from the textile industry, 30% from urban waste sorting, and the remaining 20% from other activities (Consorzio Detox, 2022). Italy was also the first European country to mandate the separate collection of textile waste as of January 1, 2022, in an effort to comply with and exceed EU directives on circular economy practices (Consorzio Detox, 2022).

Despite these efforts, Italy faces several challenges, particularly the need for greater investment in recycling technologies and infrastructure, as well as addressing the fragmented nature of the country’s waste management system. Although Italy has the highest number of sorting and recycling facilities in Europe, particularly in Prato, precise statistics on sorting and recycling are difficult to obtain due to the overlap between preparation for reuse and recycling processes (ETC CE Report, 2024; The Unique Magazine, 2022).

Possible Solutions Towards a Unified European Strategy

Germany, France, and Italy each provide valuable insights into addressing the growing issue of textile waste. Germany’s focus on improving collection and sorting mechanisms, France’s legislative leadership through EPR, and Italy’s blend of tradition and modernity highlight the diverse strategies employed across Europe. However, the challenges these countries face indicate that a more unified and comprehensive approach is needed across the continent. What also becomes crystal clear is how Europe generally needs to invest more into sorting waste and support R&D in textile recycling. Here are some potential solutions and strategies that could be adopted to enhance textile waste management on a European scale.

1. Enhanced Collection Systems

Integrating advanced collection systems with AI and sensor technologies could help optimize the sorting and recycling processes. For example, Sensoneo has developed waste fill level monitoring through the use of ultrasonic beams. These technologies can streamline collection routes and improve the accuracy of sorting, thereby increasing the efficiency of recycling operations (Sensoneo, 2024).

2. Investment in Recycling Technologies

A substantial increase in investment in innovative recycling technologies, particularly for mixed fibres, is essential for the sustainability of textile recycling processes. According to McKinsey & Company, an investment of €6 to €7 billion by 2030 could enable fibre-to-fibre recycling to manage 18–26% of gross textile waste, potentially generating profits of €1.5 to €2.2 billion and reducing CO₂ emissions by approximately 4 million tons (McKinsey & Company, 2022).

3. Expansion of Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) Schemes

Expanding EPR regulations across Europe could ensure that producers are held accountable for the entire lifecycle of their products. This would help to promote eco-design from the outset, encouraging manufacturers to create products that are easier to recycle, repair, or upcycle. However, for EPR schemes to be truly effective, they should include mandatory compliance rather than relying on voluntary participation.

4. Eco-Design and Design for Longevity

Designing products with longevity in mind is a critical strategy for reducing textile waste. Eco-design involves the systematic integration of environmental aspects from the design and development stages, ensuring that products are made to last longer, can be easily repaired, or are biodegradable. This approach reduces the environmental impact of textiles throughout their lifecycle.

5. Promotion of Repair, Upcycling, and Take-Back Programs

Encouraging consumers to return their old clothes through take-back programs, and offering incentives for repairing garments rather than discarding them, can significantly reduce textile waste. Upcycling, where designers repurpose old textiles into new garments, is another effective strategy that not only reduces waste but also creates unique fashion pieces.

6. Second-Hand Markets and Clothing Rentals

Promoting second-hand markets and clothing rentals as alternatives to purchasing new items can help curb the demand for fast fashion. By extending the life of existing garments through these practices, the pressure on production and waste management systems is reduced. This shift towards a more circular economy is essential for sustainable consumption.

7. Zero-Waste Pattern Cutting and Biodegradable Materials

Adopting zero-waste pattern cutting techniques and using biodegradable materials in the design stage are forward-thinking strategies that can drastically reduce textile waste. These methods ensure that minimal fabric is wasted during production and that the end products have a lower environmental footprint when they reach the end of their useful life.

Conclusion

By joining forces and prioritizing collaboration between countries within the EU, sharing best practices and knowledge, and investing in new technologies, Europe can lead the way in creating a more sustainable future for the textile industry. The road ahead is challenging to say the least, but with a genuine effort and more investment for innovation, the vision of a circular economy for textiles is within reach. A unified European strategy that incorporates these solutions will not only address the current issues but also pave the way for a more sustainable and responsible fashion industry.

Inge Duiker

allrightsreserved

Renewcell

Renewcell is a Swedish company known for its technology that recycles cotton T-shirts and jeans destined for landfill into a new material, Circulose, which can be used by spinners and weavers to create lyocell or viscose which is normally obtained from the deforestation of millions of trees. Circulose has been used by H&M, Levi’s, Tommy Hilfiger, Calvin Klein and Zara to produce new clothing.

At the end of February, Michael Berg, chairman of the board of directors of Renewcell, announced the bankruptcy in a press release: “This is a sad day for the environment, our employees, our shareholders, and our other stakeholders, and it is a testament to the lack of leadership and necessary pace of change in the fashion industry”. Nicole Rycroft, founder of Canopy, described the news as a “sobering moment” for the global fashion industry (Just Style).

The bankruptcy came just over a year after Renewcell’s flagship factory opened. What exactly happened?

• Insufficient support along the value chain: Despite the commitment of more than 15 leading brands, including H&M, Levi Strauss & Co, Ganni and Inditex (Zara), demand for the product has been lower than expected, leading to a lack of sufficient long-term financing for the continuation of the business. For example, H&M had agreed to purchase 18,000 tonnes by 2025. Renewcell revealed that it had not received any orders in November 2023. While brands have made promises, they have often failed to deliver on them effectively. Using more sustainable materials just for a capsule collection does not make  the large-scale production of these alternatives viable.

• Obstacles in the supply chain: Renewcell’s business model has faced challenges due to the lack of vertical integration and connections along the supply chain. This may have made it difficult to control the entire process and scale the business efficiently (Nikolay Anguelov, public policy expert at the University of Massachusetts Dartmouth, to Drapers). Furthermore, the lack of national infrastructure for circular fashion processes has further hindered progress.

• Management: According to Scandinavian Mind, the company has shown signs of unstable leadership, highlighted by the resignations of spokespeople Harald Cavalli and Nora Eslander, who were replaced by a high-profile marketing executive based in New York. The sudden dismissal of CEO Patrik Lundström, followed by a share sale ahead of a negative earnings call, further undermined confidence in management.

• Pioneers’ challenges: As is often the case in emerging industries, early players like Renewcell face significant obstacles. Progress in these industries is frequently uneven, dependent on massive and critical adoption (Rycroft to Fast Companies) and support across the entire value chain. Furthermore, some established players may resist by seeing pioneers as a threat to their dominance in the industry.

• Weak collaboration and stakeholder engagement: Companies in the industry recognize the importance of collaborating and involving key players. No single company can transform the entire supply chain alone or bring an entirely new supply chain to market. Even if the conditions are there for a revolution in the sector, the fashion value chain is not quite ready to support the pioneers (Just Style). Collaboration between companies is necessary.

• Competitiveness: The challenge with the competitors lies in comparing the cost of cheaper virgin fibers to more sustainable options like Circulose, which tend to have a higher market price. According to Rycroft, Circulose’s relatively high cost reflects its status as a leading innovation on the market. Renewcell expected to be able to lower the cost in a few years (Green Biz). This comparison highlights the fashion industry’s short-term approach and its focus on profits. For many businesses, particularly those listed on the stock exchange, achieving optimal profit margins remains a priority, despite growing attention to the environment and ethics (The Interline). Renewcell’s business model, which requires brands to order Circulose recycled dissolved pulp, places an additional burden on them. This deviates significantly from usual fiber sourcing practices, as most brands are unfamiliar with the origin of the fibers used in their fabrics. A brand may be pressured to choose between a more expensive but sustainable material, investing in a future supply chain, or continue to use less expensive and less eco-friendly materials to maintain short-term profitability. The situation reflects a broader trend in the fashion industry, which shows a reluctance to support and adopt innovations necessary to ensure long-term sustainability. Growing demand coupled with limited supply has no history of reducing prices, making it clear that the industry must take significant steps to meet future challenges (Forbes).

• Sustainability and logistics: Despite sustainability efforts, Renewcell’s international shipping practices have raised questions about the true sustainability of the process. Sending Circulose textile fiber to China for further production raises questions about the overall sustainability of the production cycle. Furthermore, due to the characteristics of the chemical recycling process, the Renewcell solution is mainly applicable to textile production waste, rather than to post-consumer textile waste.

• Lack of financial support: Lack of adequate funding and pressure to achieve rapid returns on investments have been key factors hindering the growth of Renewcell’s (Drapers) sustainability initiatives. Despite advanced negotiations with major shareholders and financiers, including H&M, BNP Paribas and the European Investment Bank, along with other potential investors, they have failed to secure the liquidity and capital needed to support business operations. The lack of long-term financial support has put business continuity at risk. Renewcell attributed this situation to the current capital market climate, highlighting the difficulty in raising funds for future strategic developments and the orientation towards rapid returns on investments (ROI). These factors led to the difficult decision to file for bankruptcy, despite confidence in the company’s long-term potential. Global interest in sustainability is constantly growing. However, obtaining funding at this crucial time has proven to be a difficult task. The role that sustainable materials play in combating climate change is relevant, but many people still view their long-term feasibility and scalability with skepticism. As a result, many investors are directing their funds towards sectors considered more profitable or less risky, for example artificial intelligence.

Mylo

Mylo is an innovative material developed by the US company Bolt Threads. It is a biomaterial derived from mycelium, the fibrous part of mushrooms. Mylo is designed to be a sustainable alternative to animal leather, offering an eco-friendly option for the fashion and design industry. The production of Mylo involves the controlled cultivation of mycelium, which is then processed and treated to obtain a leather-like material, but without the use of animals. Mylo has attracted the interest of several companies in the fashion and design sector who are looking for more sustainable materials for their products. Bolt Threads has collaborated with brands such as Stella McCartney, Adidas, Kering, Hermes, demonstrating the potential of this biomaterial in helping reduce the environmental impact of the fashion industry.

At the end of June 2023, Bolt Threads paused production of Mylo. “We’re not immune to the macroeconomic pressures that everyone else is facing, so we’ve put Mylo on hold to rethink what works and what will work in the future,” Dan Widmaier, CEO of Bolt Threads, tells Vogue Business.

In addition to the impact of inflation, financial support was found to be substantially insufficient, preventing the product from reaching significant commercial scale. Widmaier stressed that interest and adoption of alternative materials by luxury brands has not been enough to ensure Mylo’s success. Despite collaborations with prestigious brands and the commitment of figures such as Stella McCartney, Mylo has struggled to achieve the scalability necessary for an effective market introduction.

The future of sustainable fashion

Renewcell’s decline has sparked a wave of global concern, including over its supply chain. Factories and waste handlers in Bangladesh, Turkey and Kenya, previously partnered with Renewcell for disposal and reuse, are having to look for alternatives (Forbes).

The stories of Renewcell and Bolt Threads are a sign of the need for greater commitment and collaboration from companies and governments to adopt and support circular practices. The Canopy founder urged all stakeholders in the fashion industry to align their actions with sustainability promises and fully embrace available market solutions for real change.

It is not a constructive choice to create “sustainable” capsule collections: a broader, long-term commitment is needed.

In response to the failure, members of the Circulose Supplier Network are launching a campaign to “save” Renewcell, highlighting the importance of coordinated action by various stakeholders to promote sustainability solutions. Burak Orhan Arifioglu, a board member of yarn seller Karacasu Tekstil in Turkey, is circulating a petition on LinkedIn urging other suppliers to continue developing Circulose fibres (Green Biz).

However, there is still optimism for the future of sustainability in the fashion industry. As new directives and regulations come into force globally, it is crucial that the entire industry invests more and prioritizes long-term gains over short-term ones. The European Union has announced a series of new regulations that will push clothing companies towards more sustainable practices, thus providing a potential boost to future demand.

Established investors and industrial giants must understand the importance of supporting start-ups like Bolt Threads and Renewcell to ensure that the industry’s green revolution does not get stuck in its infancy.

With investor support, corporate commitment and a long-term regulatory environment, the industry can make great progress in the fight against climate change. It is only through collective commitment and a long-term vision that we can hope to transform the fashion industry into an example of sustainability and environmental responsibility for future generations.

Source: Drapers; Just Style; Fast Companies; Green Biz, The Interline; Forbes.

Textile consumption in Europe has the fourth largest impact on the environment and climate change, after food, shelter and mobility.

The strategy implements the commitments made under the European Green Deal (#EUGreenDeal) and the new action plan for the circular economy. The EU thus begins to define end criteria for textile waste used not only as clothing, but also for household, cars, medical equipment, buildings and many other applications. The strategy aims to propose actions for the entire life cycle of textile products, supporting the ecosystem in the green and digital transitions, even in the design and consumption phases of fabrics. The Commission will work to enhance resource-efficient manufacturing processes, reuse, repair and other new circular economic models.

EU Environment Commissioner Virginijus Sinkevičius said the committee wanted fast fashion to go out of fashion: “By 2030, textiles placed on the EU market should be durable and recyclable, made to a large extent by recycled fibers”.

Re-use and repair

The strategy encourages Member States to support re-use and repair practices at national, regional and local levels and to adopt tax cuts and other tax measures to facilitate their adoption. The EU is proposing new rules that foresee a mandatory minimum use of recycled fibers by 2030 and a ban on the destruction of many unsold products.

Microplastics

The Commission wants to address the unintended release of microplastics from synthetic fabrics, considering measures to prevent and reduce it through product design, improvement of production processes, pre-washing in industrial production plants, labeling and promotion of materials innovative.

Export

The Commission will work to limit the export of textile waste and increase transparency and sustainability in the trade in waste and textiles by promoting sustainable textiles globally. To avoid the mislabeling of waste as second-hand products, the strategy foresees the development of criteria to distinguish it correctly.

Social

The strategy proposes the promotion of decent and fair working conditions, in particular with reference to gender equality, because most of the textile workers in the world are women (70% -80%). Through the Better Work program, the Commission continues to support partner countries to improve working conditions and comply with international labor standards.

The proposal also includes the introduction of a sustainability obligation for large companies to address negative impacts on human rights and the environment throughout their global value chain.

Consequences for producers and companies

The sector will have to commit to reducing the environmental footprint and introducing the principles of circularity. The Commission is working to support the transition process by preparing a roadmap to develop and streamline industrial technology research and innovation and by making financial support available (under Horizon Europe’s European Partnerships, the LIFE programme, and the Digital Europe Programme for the development of skilled experts to support the textiles industry in its digitalisation).

Give your feedback

The Commission invites all stakeholders and in particular SMEs, public authorities, social partners and research organizations to express their views on how best to achieve the transition while strengthening resilience. Anyone interested can provide feedback through an online survey and follow-up workshop.

Source: European Commission

Puoi ascoltare qui l’articolo: Strategia Tessile EU

Il consumo di tessili in Europa ha il quarto maggiore impatto sull’ambiente e sui cambiamenti climatici, dopo cibo, alloggio e mobilità.

La strategia attua così gli impegni presi nell’ambito del Green Deal europeo (#EUGreenDeal) e del nuovo piano d’azione per l’economia circolare. L’UE inizia infatti a definire i criteri di fine vita dei rifiuti tessili utilizzati non solo come abbigliamento, ma anche per la casa, le automobili, le apparecchiature mediche, gli edifici e tante altre applicazioni. La strategia vuole proporre azioni per l’intero ciclo di vita dei prodotti tessili, supportando l’ecosistema nelle transizioni verde e digitale, anche nelle fasi di progettazione e consumo dei tessuti. La Commissione si impegnerà per potenziare i processi di produzione efficienti sotto il profilo delle risorse, il riutilizzo, la riparazione e altri nuovi modelli economici circolari.

Il commissario per l’ambiente dell’UE, Virginijus Sinkevičius, ha affermato che la commissione voleva che il fast fashion uscisse di moda: “Entro il 2030 i tessuti immessi sul mercato dell’UE dovrebbero essere longevi e riciclabili, realizzati in larga misura da fibre riciclate”.

Riutilizzo e riparazione

La strategia incoraggia gli Stati membri a sostenere prassi di riutilizzo e riparazione a livello nazionale, regionale e locale e ad adottare riduzioni e altre misure fiscali che ne favoriscano il ricorso. L’UE propone nuove regole che prevedano un uso minimo obbligatorio di fibre riciclate entro il 2030 e il divieto di distruzione di molti prodotti invenduti.

Microplastiche

La Commissione vuole affrontare il rilascio involontario di microplastiche da tessuti sintetici, considerando misure di prevenzione e riduzione del fenomeno attraverso la progettazione dei prodotti, il miglioramento dei processi di produzione, il prelavaggio negli impianti di produzione industriale, l’etichettatura e la promozione di materiali innovativi.

Esportazioni

La Commissione lavorerà per limitare l’esportazione di rifiuti tessili e aumentare la trasparenza e la sostenibilità nel commercio dei rifiuti e dei prodotti tessili, promuovendo tessuti sostenibili a livello globale. Per evitare l’etichettatura erronea dei rifiuti come prodotti di seconda mano la strategia prevede lo sviluppo di criteri per distinguerli correttamente.

Sociale

La strategia propone la promozione di condizioni di lavoro dignitose ed eque, in particolare con riferimento all’uguaglianza di genere perché la maggior parte dei lavoratori tessili nel mondo sono donne (70%-80%). Attraverso il programma Better Work, la Commissione continua a sostenere i paesi partner per migliorare le condizioni lavorative e conformarsi alle norme internazionali del lavoro.

La proposta include anche l’introduzione di un obbligo in materia di sostenibilità per le grandi aziende di risolvere gli impatti negativi sui diritti umani e sull’ambiente lungo tutta la loro catena del valore globale.

Conseguenze per produttori e aziende

Il settore dovrà impegnarsi nella riduzione dell’impronta ambientale e nell’introduzione dei principi di circolarità. La Commissione è al lavoro per sostenere il processo di transizione, preparando una tabella di marcia per sviluppare e razionalizzare la ricerca e l’innovazione della tecnologia industriale e mettendo a disposizione supporto finanziario (nell’ambito delle Partnership Europee di Horizon Europe, del programma LIFE e del Programma Europa Digitale per lo sviluppo di esperti qualificati a sostegno dell’industria tessile nella sua digitalizzazione).

Dai il tuo feedback

La Commissione invita tutte le parti interessate e in particolare le PMI, le autorità pubbliche, le parti sociali e gli organismi di ricerca a esprimere le proprie opinioni sul modo migliore per realizzare la transizione, rafforzando nel contempo la resilienza. Tutti gli interessati possono fornire feedback attraverso un sondaggio online e un workshop di follow-up.

Fonte: Commissione Europea

About 550 kg of clothes were analyzed in the first ever study on fibers thrown into textile collection containers.

Developed by INTEXTER * of the Universitat Politècnica de Catalunya (UPC)) and student Beatriz Rodríguez of ESEIAAT **, the study is included in the report Análisis de la recogida de la ropa usada en España (Analysis of the collection of used clothing in Spain)***.

Analyzing the composition of the textile products in the bins through an innovative methodology, the research shows that:

• 62% of the clothes contained in the bins are reusable and 37% are recyclable. The most common fiber is cotton, with 50% in recyclable clothing and 60% in reusable clothing. Polyester follows, with 30% in both types. Cotton and polyester account for approximately 80% of recyclable clothing and 88% of reusable clothing.
• Acrylic, polyamide, wool and rayon viscose represent a much lower percentage. In the case of acrylic fiber there is a notable difference between recyclable garments, which represent 12.4%, and reusable garments (3.1%). Acrylic fiber is commonly used in outdoor clothing which is more likely to deteriorate during use, so the reuse rate of these garments is lower than recyclable.

According to INTEXTER director Enric Carrera, “In light of the analysis, we can say that the recycling strategy of post-consumer textile waste should focus on recovering and reusing 80% of the predominant fibres, namely cotton and polyester”.

The study also includes an analysis of the fiber composition of 700 garments from some of the leading fashion brands.

T-shirts, sweaters, jeans, underwear, socks and shirts from Zara, H&M, C&A and Mango reveal that 66.8% of garments are made of mixed fibers, thus significantly limiting the recycling potential. Only 37.3% of the garments studied are made 100% with a single fiber.

The compositions analyzed are not entirely representative because depending on the season (winter/summer) they can vary considerably, the study is therefore to be considered indicative.

Regarding home textiles, 361 articles were analyzed.

Sheets, towels, tablecloths and curtains from Ikea, Zara Home, H&M Home, 10xDIEZ and Carrefour are mainly made with a single material (80%). The most common fibers are cotton, polyester, linen, viscose and lyocell, in that order. Sheets and towels are made primarily of 100% cotton, while tablecloths and curtains of 100% polyester, although binary blends of cotton and polyester or cotton and linen are also used.

UPC’s INTEXTER also carried out an extensive literature review of existing studies on how much CO2 is saved by reusing clothing.

According to the study, carried out with an accurate methodology, the estimate of CO2 savings by reusing 1 kg of clothes is higher than what the EU has outlined so far ****: one kilo of unwanted clothes is enough to avoid the production of 25 kg of CO2.

It doesn’t seem like it, but with small gestures such as recovering, modifying, repairing, donating or selling clothes that we no longer use we can help improve everyone’s quality of life! In the Upcycling section of the site you can read some articles on the subject.

*Terrassa Institute of Textile Research and Industrial Cooperation.

**Terrassa School of Industrial, Aerospace and Audiovisual Engineering.

***Made by the Cáritas cooperative Moda re- and the LAVOLA consultancy company.

****3.169 kg of CO2 saved for every kg of unwanted clothes.

The brand will give the opportunity to clients to go to their Stockholm shop where they will be able to return their undesired clothes, which will then be sanitised and put inside a new machine called Looop. The machine will disassemble the fibres that will be reutilized to create new clothing items. H&M stated for CNN that these recycling process, developed together with the Hong Kong Research Institute of Textiles and Apparel (HKRITA) and spinner company Novetex Textiles, can work with multiple items at the same time, it will not use water nor chemical products, and it will seldomly need the addition of raw materials of “sustainable origin”, however they hope to keep such additions to a minimum.

A technology that seems innovative and with a lot of potential, but we decided to delve deeper into this story with Ariele Elia, Assistant Director at Fashion Law Institute of Fordham Law University and member of the Fashion Studies Alliance.

“The biggest issue is that you can’t recycle all garments and there is not a system that can separate a lot of fabric blends. like a polyester or synthetic material”, says Ariele. “What happens with a lot of those plastics is when you’re starting to shred them it actually melts the fibre, so if they’re talking about recycling wool fibres and cotton fibres that’s fine but what most of the things that H&M actually produces it’s usually blended with some kind of stretch in it. It’s great for 100% wool sweater that can be recycled but if it has any kind of stretch or synthetic in it you probably can’t recycle it”.

Besides the 5 hours needed to complete the transformation, the clients will be able to observe the full process of it thanks to the fact that the machine Looop is in full display in the store surrounded by transparent glass.
At a price ranging from 11 to 16 dollars the clients can also choose between turning their old garments into either a scarf, a baby blanket or a sweater.

H&M stated that the proceeds will be invested in the research and innovation to help the brand reach their goal of having 100% recycled or sustainably sourced materials by 2030.

Due to the reputation of the Swedish brand and especially due to their fast fashion business model that is by now rooted in their company for many years now, we take such claim with much caution, as suggested also by Ariele:

“They are making some change and I think it is admirable that they’re trying to come up with this recycling system and I think that the money they’re putting into the technology is great. However, I always come back to the fact that with fast fashion the fact that you are mass producing that much is not sustainable. Despite all of the different initiatives and conscious fact that the machine Looop is in full display surrounded by transparent glass in brands or conscious collections that you create you still can’t be sustainable”.

We have also involved Sarah Byrd, fashion historian, archivist, and member of Fashion United Alliance. Sarah suggests a different perspective on this new machine and brand’s objective. She highlighted the fact that every clothing item will only be able to be recycled into a scarf, baby blanket or sweater.

“For what is worth, I don’t think producing new anything is ever truly sustainable and this seems like more downcycling (ndr: that reuses a material creating a product with a lower value than the original) than recycling. Buying less and taking care of what you have already is one of the most realistic steps people can take towards sustainability”, says Sarah.

To this, Ariele Elia added that besides producing new clothing items, the issue of quality also needs to be considered:

“What a lot of people don’t recognise is that when you recycle fibres, they are not virgin anymore, so the quality of it is very inferior and I think people expect whatever you put out to be exactly what you’re going to get back”.

Besides offering this alternative option, the Swedish brand has said that allowing customers to visualize and witness this closed loop approach to recycling will encourage more people to think about the actual value of what they wear.

For now this machine is only available in their Stockholm store and it isn’t clear whether the multinational brand has an expansion plan.

In conclusion, this new machine created by H&M in trying to find new sustainable solutions is certainly noteworthy. If they decide to license out the system to other brands, this technology would then be able to be replicated on a larger scale. Moreover, the energy and economical resources invested in Looop, that would consequentially have a big impact on the fashion world, is undoubtedly admirable.

To truly assess the value of this new technology we will need to check on it both in the short and long-term.

Nevertheless, the business model and low-cost production the company is deeply rooted to is not sustainable. And regardless of how many initiatives or conscious collections they make, they will never be able to undo or redeem themselves from the damages made by their mass production.

The fast recycling of an increasingly rapid fashion (and consumption) is not THE solution to the negative impact of the production and consumption system in the sector.

We at Dress Ecode will keep following the developments on this new machine and will keep you informed on other H&M’s actions.

Riccardo Zazzini

Photos: Fernand De Canne, Ksenia Chernaya.

Watch the video here

Maybe you are doing the slalom between articles, posts and stories that suggest purchases for the holidays, now here is also Dress Ecode on the subject! We have worked hard in the last weeks so that it was not the usual Christmas guide. We are not for pushing to buy in the occasion of a particular holiday or time of the year, because the consumption model we propose wants to spread greater responsibility in our daily choices.

We hope you will find here useful tips not only for buying but also for experiencing this period, and for choosing gifts, with an extra focus on sustainability.

Non troverai una carrellata di marchi e prodotti. Anche perché non riusciremmo a includere tutti quelli che ci piacciono. Abbiamo preferito focalizzarci sulle idee, in linea con la nostra filosofia di diffondere come acquistare in modo più responsabile. Per conoscere brand e artigiani che realizzano i doni che consigliamo, qui sul sito trovi davvero tanti spunti selezionando la categoria «Dove acquistare». You won’t find a roundup of brands and products. Also because we would not be able to include all the ones we like. We preferred to focus on ideas, in line with our philosophy of spreading how to buy more responsibly. To learn about brands and artisans who make the gifts we recommend, here on the site you will find many ideas by selecting the category «Where to buy».

You will not find discounts, because we would like all the work and commitment behind artisanal, handmade, slow and more sustainable products to always be recognized at the right price. Instead, you will find a surprise at the end: how much we like brands that talk about other brands!

Available in preview to the most loyal readers who have chosen to adopt a Dress Ecode, this guide is a gift to all readers.

A long article that becomes a guide, because there are many things to say on the subject of gifts and parties. It is not exhaustive, but full of contents to be read even in episodes, to find tips for choosing gifts in a more responsible and pleasant way, valid all year round, not just at Christmas.
And here it is, a special issue of Dress Ecode dressed up for the holidays!

If you like it and want to receive more, join the group of people who want a greener and more ethical fashion (and lifestyle). You will be able to read the guides that we have already created and you will receive the next ones that we will publish exclusively.

Let us and the brands you decide to buy a gift from know that it was useful* and if you followed a suggestion you read!

Do you want to read the guide? Click on the image below:

* We write as objectively as possible and independently , which is why we choose not to receive sponsorships. If we decide to include advertising information, we will communicate this clearly.

Besides the actual shoes ending up in landfills at the end of the life cycle, during the tanning process also the shoe factories produce significant waste:

• dust, scraps and leather clippings polymeric materials and fabrics;
• adhesives and solvents;
• packaging (canned goods) partly dangerous as it is used to contain chemical substances.

Peterson+Stoop’s story, Dutch brand founded by Jarah Stoop and Jelske Peterson, is based exactly on the concept of giving a new life to thrown away shoes. Not only saving them from the landfill but also increasing their value by giving them a new start in the high shoes fashion industry, thanks to the implementation of TPU soles and thanks to a new vegan leather and cork design.

First of all, starting from the beginning of your story, when and where did you two meet?

“We met in art school in Amsterdam, Jarah was in her 3rd years and sat on the newcomers committee, she among others is responsible for letting me into the school”.

How did your project start? What was the initial vision and reason for doing so?

“After art school and after Jarah just graduating from Royal College of Art in London we decided to share a studio, both doing our own thing. We obviously spoke a lot about our work and goals and after doing one assignment together in which we designed and made shoes for Heineken, we decided to join forces as our collaboration felt so natural”.

Where did you take inspiration from?

“We take inspiration from Dutch artisanal shoe making techniques. I worked at a high-end cobbler for 7 years, and I have been highly inspired by that work and I decided to take it with me in the new project with Jarah. I asked myself questions like: Where does a shoe tend to brake? How can we design a shoe that makes it repairable?”.

What are the materials and fabrics you use for the creation of the shoe?

“We only use vegan leather. This is leather that is tanned without the use of chemicals. With the support of the Worth project ((contest giving annual funding the best innovative designs in Europe) and the European Union, we were able to create our own outsoles together with a factory in Spain. They make our leather soles, and soles made from TPU, a fully recyclable material“.

Where do you take your stock to meet your clients’ demand?

“Our second-hand shoes instead mainly come from a sorting centre in Poland. But we also buy from sites like Vinted“.

Where have you gained the most attention and market?

“Since we started in 2018, Japan is definitely the market where we are having the best success for our shoes.  About 80% of our wholesale goes to Tokyo”.

What sustainability principles do you stand by the most? 

“Repair. Jarah and I strongly believe that if something is made in such a way that it is repairable, then it can last you a lifetime, and that makes it sustainable”.

What is the easiest and the hardest part of your job?

“Surely one of the easiest parts of our job, as it is our passion and ideology, is to keep working with resilience. The hardest thing instead, due to the actual world situation and artisanal challenges at large, is to keep working and to keep having work!”.

What is next for the company?

“Grow, we hope. The main issue is that we need to find more sources for our second-hand sneakers so we can grow more rapidly and spread out all over the world in the long run”.

Riccardo Zazzini

Site: https://petersonstoop.com

Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/petersonstoop/

Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/peterson.stoop.design