However, the recent scandal involving Loro Piana—a historic Italian cashmere brand under investigation for labor exploitation—undermines this belief.

And it’s not an isolated case. Max Mara, Dior, Armani, Valentino are among other luxury brands recently implicated in cases of poor labor conditions. It points to a deeper issue. In this article-podcast, we explore the phenomenon of luxurywashing—the construction of a “green and ethical” image that masks inconsistent practices, even in the luxury sector.

 What are the most common greenwashing tactics used by luxury brands?

• Launching capsules or limited collections (e.g., made from organic or recycled materials), while the core production remains unsustainable.

• Promoting carbon neutrality through offsetting (tree planting, carbon credits) without significantly reducing internal emissions.

• Misleading use of self-declared certifications or partnerships with “eco-like” organizations, which often cover only a tiny fraction of the supply chain. Some certifications are not independent or not applied across the full product line.

• Organizing “green” events (like carbon-neutral fashion shows) to build an image of commitment without altering overall production.

• Investing in sustainability initiatives to boost ESG (Environmental, Social, Governance) scores, while the core business model stays untouched—enhancing a green image without real change.

Data That Debunk the Myth

Antoine Arnault, son of Bernard Arnault, owner of LVMH, publicly stated that luxury goods are “sustainable by nature.” He made this statement at a fashion sustainability summit—but is it true?

A study funded by Primark and conducted by the University of Leeds in collaboration with Hubbub (2022–2024) revealed that luxury garments do not last longer than fast fashion ones. Some of the most expensive items scored from average to poor in durability tests. For instance, a men’s T-shirt priced between £36 and £45 ranked 9th out of 17 items. So price is not a reliable indicator of durability or structural quality.

The Business of Fashion Sustainability Index 2023 gave failing scores to most luxury brands due to a lack of transparency in their supply chains—especially concerning labor conditions, raw material traceability, and waste management. There’s no clear evidence that luxury brands are more sustainable than fast fashion brands. LVMH is not more sustainable than H&M or Inditex (owner of Zara, Pull&Bear, Bershka).

The point isn’t just whether materials are organic or emissions are offset. The issue runs deeper.

Luxury traditionally aligns with extrinsic values like wealth, prestige, and social status—values that speak more to “appearing” than “being.” In contrast, sustainability is rooted in intrinsic values like social justice, respect for the environment, and genuine connection with the natural world. There’s a clear tension between two worldviews: luxury as a symbol of individual success vs. sustainability as a collective commitment to the common good. According to Holmes and Bendell, luxury brands risk contradiction when they try to embrace sustainability: how can they promote moderation, justice, and balance with nature while simultaneously feeding desires tied to power, exclusivity, and privilege?

So when a luxury brand claims to be sustainable, the uncomfortable question becomes: is it really shifting paradigms, or just dressing up old values in green? The risk is that sustainability becomes a tool to reinforce the very extrinsic values it should be challenging.

Thus, luxury remains accessible to a few, while the environmental and social impact falls on the many. Sustainability gets stripped of its authentic meaning—reduced to a marketing tool to ennoble what is far from noble.

The Gap Between Image and Reality

The problem with luxurywashing isn’t just inconsistency—it’s the narrative being crafted. Evocative language, emotional campaigns, “eco” capsules or sustainable limited editions become distractions when the core production remains opaque and sometimes illegal. I remember that during the Sustainable Business Models in the Luxury Sector course, a student presented Loro Piana as an example of a sustainable brand, swayed by online sources praising its positive impact. In the past, Loro Piana was accused of building its sustainable narrative around vicuña (a luxury fiber from a camelid native to the Andes), without offering transparent data on the real socio-environmental impact or benefits returned to the Andean communities involved.

In the Loro Piana case (a brand owned by LVMH), the world’s finest cashmere was sewn by underpaid workers forced to endure exhausting shifts in unsafe environments.

Spending €2,000 on a sweater and discovering that the person who made it earns €4 per hour working up to 90 hours a week calls into question the very meaning of value.

Numerous luxury brands—including Prada, Hugo Boss, and Dolce & Gabbana—were named in a recent Clean Clothes Campaign report on labor conditions in the so-called Euro-Mediterranean textile cluster, an area that includes countries like Croatia, Moldova, and Albania.

The report highlights that in Croatia, for instance, some Hugo Boss suppliers pay wages that amount to just one-third of what would be considered a living wage. A Hugo Boss spokesperson responded by stating that the company requires suppliers to comply with national minimum wage laws. However, they also said that wage negotiations are a matter for local employers, employees, and national institutions—while expressing openness to “constructive dialogue.”

According to the report, Germany and Italy are key destinations for these garments produced in the Euro-Med cluster. It’s not just fast fashion brands like Primark and Tesco sourcing there, but also luxury labels like Versace, Dolce & Gabbana, Armani, and Max Mara.

Clean Clothes Campaign noted that none of the high-end brands mentioned responded officially to the allegations. Hugo Boss, which received an advance copy of the Stitched Up study, did not provide specific statements on its findings (source: The Guardian).

The luxury sector may appear to be outside the system of offshoring production to cut labor costs and boost profits. But behind the façade of craftsmanship, design, quality, uniqueness, and sustainability—prominently displayed in online reports—lie the same factories and the same labor conditions.

Comments on Reddit include statements like:

“”Luxury brands don’t just sell you a product, they sell you an identity. If you admit that this identity is built on exploitation, the whole system collapses.”

“What bothers me the most: if I could afford to pay a markup of several thousand dollars on a bag, I’d want to be absolutely certain that a proportional part of that money goes toward guaranteeing world-class production and labor conditions. (…) At Dior bag prices, there’s just no excuse. (…) That luxury markup should extend to every stage of the production process. (…) Another thing that bothers me: almost all handbag brands, whether luxury or mid-range, have a section on their website dedicated to sustainability initiatives and green certifications for their factories… but VERY few (and almost none among the luxury ones) provide information about ethical working conditions for people.”

The fortress of luxury—behind which brands have hidden choices increasingly similar to fast fashion—is crumbling.

New Rules on the Horizon

The good news is that things are beginning to change. The European Commission is introducing new regulations, such as those from the Green Claims Directive, which will require brands to provide verifiable evidence of their environmental and social claims. It will be harder to hide behind vague slogans or unclear certifications.

In the meantime, reports like the one from BSI (British Standards Institution) suggest that brands must restructure their entire supply chain, not just their communications, if they want to avoid a collapse of consumer trust.

What Can We Do?

As consumers, we have more power than we think. We can:

• Ask for transparency: demand that brands clearly state where and by whom a product was made.

• Rely on independent rating tools (like Good On You).

• Choose second-hand or small brands with short, traceable supply chains.

• Be wary of vague claims like “green,” “eco,” or “responsible” that lack supporting data.

What Kind of Luxury Do We Believe In?

The Loro Piana case is just the latest crack in a system built on the myth of spotless excellence. But excellence without respect for human rights and the environment is just a façade.

There are businesses trying to redefine the meaning of luxury—through slow gestures, conscious craftsmanship, and transparent supply chains. And yet, even they must navigate a system that rewards exclusivity more than justice.

So, what kind of luxury do we believe in?

Perhaps in one that doesn’t need to appear ethical—because it truly is. In the luxury of small brands. The ones that don’t shout, but whisper. Measured not in status, but in time, care, and justice. That don’t promise perfection, but at least try not to build their value on the silence of those sewing in the shadows. There’s a luxury that doesn’t need to seem ethical, because it truly is. Are we ready to recognize it, even if it doesn’t have a famous logo?

When fashion forgets who sews it

In the 1960s and 1970s, female textile workers in Reggio Emilia went on strike in major factories like Confit, Bloch, Maska, Max Mara, and not just for wages. They demanded rights over their bodies, their health, their time. They worked in environments saturated with fibers, standing for hours, with night shifts that left no room for motherhood, life, dignity. Those women, often invisible in the union narratives of the time, brought a new urgency to the heart of the factories: the struggle was not just economic. It was existential.

In cases like Max Mara, the workers demanded recognition of the trade unions and national labor contracts in the sector.

“The request to improve the working environment and to act in defense of health […] represented a significant speech and an autonomous field of mobilization for many women”

from Le lotte delle operaie tessili reggiane, Genere Lavoro Cultura Tecnica

Within textile companies such as the Max Mara Group, workers promoted self-investigations into environmental and health conditions in the workplace. An investigation carried out in collaboration with the Occupational Medicine Center of Guastalla revealed serious critical issues: high temperatures, poor ventilation, noise, textile dust, lack of natural light and forced sedentary positions. The consequences were widespread: gynecological, muscular, visual and psychosomatic disorders such as anxiety and irritability.

Fifty-four years later, the thread seems to have tied itself in the same place.

May 2025. The workers of Manifattura San Maurizio – home of Max Mara production – go on strike. “Here we are stuck in the 80s” – explains Erica Morelli, general secretary of Filctem Cgil Reggio Emilia.

Right there, in the province of Reggio Emilia where the workers had gone on strike, modern workers denounce a production system that seems to have forgotten everything. That imposes frenetic rhythms, pays by piecework in disguise, constantly monitors to produce more and more. That judges them by their bodies – too slow, too fat, “cash cows” – inviting them to exercise at home to lose weight, as they denounced in interviews with Ilaria Mauri of IIl Fatto Quotidiano . A language that degrades, dehumanizes. And behind that language, an organization that exploits silence and the need to bring home a salary.

“They practically pay us by the piece and they also check how many times we go to the toilette, but we are all women, we have our periods: it’s inhumane”

It’s not just Max Mara. In the same days, at the end of May, the Carabinieri of the Modena Station and the Modena Labor Inspectorate Unit raid a textile factory in Cognento, and discover Chinese workers hired illegally, underpaid, and without rights. The Chinese manager was arrested.

In the fall of 2024, between Reggio Emilia and Modena, an operation against gangmastering coordinated by the Reggio Prosecutor’s Office leads to the seizure of seven factories in the manufacturing and clothing packaging sector. Serious conditions of exploitation, violations of health and safety regulations, and precarious and degrading housing conditions come to light.

Similar cases emerge in the North:

• In Tezze sul Brenta (Vicenza), a raid by the Guardia di Finanza: laboratory seized, dormitories created in warehouses, dangerous systems (Il Giornale di Vicenza)
• In Serravalle a Po (Mantova), the local inspectorate discovered illegal workers and disregarded safety regulations. The Public Prosecutor’s Office of Mantova reported a 29-year-old of Chinese origin (Gazzetta di Mantova)
• In Cabiate (Como), a Chinese textile laboratory that produces on behalf of the best Italian brands in the fashion sector has been closed (Il Giorno)
• In Milan and Monza, other laboratories are fined. Seven Chinese owners are reported for gangmastering. Irregular and clandestine labor in exploitative conditions. Completely disregarded are also the rules on safety in the workplace and there (il Cittadino Monza e Brianza). In Milan, a dormitory factory where workers were paid 4 euros an hour to work up to 90 hours a week, 7 days a week, has been closed (Ansa).

The labels are Italian, the conditions are not.

But the indignation quickly dies down, like an Instagram story.

Yet these stories scream. They scream of a return of gangmastering in new forms. They scream that even in “high-end” fashion, human dignity can be sewn away, stitch after stitch, in the name of productivity. The hands that make the perfect coat never appear on the catwalk. But they are there, worn, checked, tired. And now they finally speak.

Is this the “spring-summer collection” of Italian fashion? Denigrated bodies, ignored voices, elegance based on the sacrifice of others. The fashion industry – including luxury – is woven of contradictions: beautiful images and threads of silence.

Sustainability cannot be an empty word on tags. It must be a public commitment: environmental, economic, human. If there is something to remember today, it is this: behind a thousand-euro coat, there is the temperature of squeezed bodies. If we want to talk about the right fashion, let’s start with those who sew that fashion.

A few thoughts

• The female body as a “measure” of productivity: that “cash cow” is the extreme path of industrial body-shaming, where the body becomes an instrument, not a subject.
• The model of the invisible chain: clothes that cost thousands of euros are born from an inhumane mechanism of gangmastering, illegal ramifications that reveal the dark soul of the fashion supply chain.
• • From exploitation to rebellion: from the struggles of the textile workers of the 70s – who put the issues of gender and health on the table – today raising one’s head is a political, social, aesthetic need: beauty cannot ignore dignity.

What is urgently needed?

In essence, cultural appropriation refers to the act of borrowing, imitating or adopting elements of one culture by members of another culture, often without understanding, attributing or respecting the meaning and cultural context of those elements (Chumo 2023).

The use of indigenous symbols is growing, but without due respect. Pham and Nguyen (2018) analyzed the phenomenon in fashion magazines and social media, finding that the use of indigenous cultural symbols has increased in the last five years, often without recognition or attribution. The result? Protests and negative reactions from the communities involved.

Fashion Weeks: Between Inclusivity and Appropriation
Kim and Park (2020) compared different global fashion weeks, highlighting that while some events promote authentic collaborations with designers from different cultures, others continue to present collections with culturally appropriated elements.

Marginalized designers struggle to preserve their culture. Smith and Johnson (2016) interviewed designers from marginalized communities, revealing that many of them feel pressured to conform to market trends, risking unwittingly appropriating their own traditions.

Differences between appreciation, inspiration and appropriation

The topic is complex, starting from the boundary between taking inspiration and appropriating elements of another culture. Let’s try to clarify.

1. Appreciation → Recognizing and celebrating another culture with respect, often involving the communities of origin and giving them credit.
2. Inspiration → Allowing oneself to be influenced by aesthetic, symbolic or technical elements of a culture without copying them directly. Inspiration occurs in a contextualized and conscious way, avoiding distorting the original meaning.
3. Appropriation → Adopting elements of a culture without understanding or respecting the context, often simplifying them, emptying them of their meaning or exploiting them for commercial purposes without involving the community of origin.

How to recognize cultural appropriation?

In the following images we report some Red Flags to recognize cultural appropriation in fashion and discover the warning signs that should not be underestimated. Click on the photo below:

Examples of cultural appropriation

In this reel we talk about some cases that have occurred in the fashion industry.

Impact on the cultures involved

1. Exploitation without recognition – The communities that created certain designs, fabrics, or symbols often receive neither credit nor financial compensation generated by their creativity and craftsmanship.
2. Loss of cultural meaning – When an item is marketed without respect for its original context, it can lose its spiritual or identity value, reducing it to mere fashion trends.
3. Reinforcement of stereotypes – The Critical Race Theory (CRT), founded by a group of lawyers including Derrick Bell and Kimberlé Crenshaw, helps us understand how cultural appropriation reinforces stereotypes, discrimination, and racial hierarchies (Chumo 2023).
4. Lack of diversity and inclusion – Indigenous and local communities often have difficulty being involved, resulting in them being underrepresented and exacerbating the lack of diversity, both in design and representation, that fashion is often accused of.
5. Modern Cultural Colonialism – Cultural appropriation perpetuates power dynamics in which dominant cultures profit economically and symbolically from elements belonging to minorities, without contributing to their well-being. Scholars such as Edward Said, Homi Bhabha, and Gayatri Spivak have highlighted how colonial legacies have shaped fashion, influencing the way in which cultural elements are adopted and reinterpreted.

Risks for brands

In the age of cultural awareness, even a small mistake can make a brand appear insensitive and careless. Taking cultural elements without proper context and respect can expose you to several significant risks:

1. Image and reputation damage – If a brand is accused of cultural appropriation, it can suffer a negative backlash on social media and in the press, losing consumer trust.
2. Boycotts and lost sales – Consumers, especially younger generations who care about ethics and diversity, may stop buying from a brand that is perceived as insensitive or disrespectful. Chen and Lee (2019) showed that consumers who are informed about cultural appropriation practices tend to boycott the brands involved and prefer brands that value the culture in an authentic way.
3. Lawsuits and compensation claims – Some cultures are working to legally protect their traditions. After Carolina Herrera was accused of copying embroidery from the indigenous community of Tenango without permission, the Mexican Ministry of Culture once again accused Zara of copying traditional “huipiles” dresses from the state of Oaxaca in 2021.
4. Need to manage PR crises – Brands that run into controversy often have to make amends with public apologies, donations, or collaborations with affected communities, but they can’t always repair the damage.

Strategies to Stop Cultural Appropriation

Understanding cultural meanings

It is not enough to superficially appreciate a design element. It is necessary to delve deeper and understand what it really represents, studying the cultural meaning of the elements to avoid involuntary appropriations.

Collaborating authentically with cultural communities

Include designers and artists from the cultures represented in the creative process. Respect is manifested through genuine collaborations and seeking partnerships with individuals from diverse cultural backgrounds.

Transparency and attribution

Declaring the origin of a design and properly acknowledging when cultural elements are incorporated demonstrates fairness and true respect for cultures to customers. This transparency builds trust with consumers and demonstrates a commitment to responsible practices.

Supporting cultural communities

Ensure that artisans and creatives are compensated fairly for their contributions.

Educating consumer

Educating consumers about the implications of cultural appropriation can lead to more responsible purchasing decisions. Social media has a key role in both amplifying instances of cultural appropriation and promoting education and cultural awareness. Stricter content guidelines and responsible use of platforms by influencers and brands are needed. Fashion media and influencers should engage in educational efforts to spread awareness.

Building a strong legal framework

Current laws do not adequately protect cultural heritage. Ng and Wong (2018) analyzed the legal challenges of cultural appropriation in fashion, highlighting that current regulations do not effectively protect marginalized cultures. Collaboration between governments and the fashion industry to develop stronger regulations that safeguard communities’ cultural heritage is essential.

Creating safe and inclusive spaces

Marginalized designers struggle to preserve their culture. Smith and Johnson (2016) interviewed designers from marginalized communities, revealing that many of them feel pressured to conform to market trends, risking unwittingly appropriating their own traditions. Creating safe and inclusive spaces that allow designers to express their identities without commercial pressures can reduce this risk.

Boundaries between Inspiration and Appropriation

• Involvement of the community of origin: If a designer works with artists, artisans or experts of the culture from which he draws inspiration, giving them recognition and compensation, it is inspiration. If instead he takes elements without permission or recognition, it is appropriation.
• Modification and contextualization: If a cultural element is reinterpreted with sensitivity and respect, without stripping it of its identity and without distorting its meaning, it is inspiration. If it is decontextualized and used only as an ornament, it is appropriation.
• Intention and impact: If the goal is to pay homage to a culture with respect and without unilateral advantages, it is inspiration. If instead the result brings economic advantages to those who appropriate a symbol without giving anything back to the community of origin, it is appropriation.

A practical example:

• Inspiration: A brand that studies African textile patterns and collaborates with local artisans to create a collection while acknowledging their contribution.
• Appropriation: A luxury brand that uses Maasai patterns on accessories without consulting or compensating the Maasai community.

In short, the key is to respect and actively engage with the culture that inspires you.

Conclusions

Cultural appropriation is a concept deeply intertwined with the fashion industry, where trends and implications intersect in complex ways. Recognizing the importance of cultural sensitivity, collaboration, and education within the industry can help mitigate the negative consequences of cultural appropriation and promote a more inclusive and respectful approach to cultural exchange in fashion (Chumo 2023).

Martinez (2017) explored the role of Instagram and TikTok, revealing that the platforms often unknowingly spread cultural appropriation practices. However, more and more users are becoming critical of brands, demanding greater respect and transparency.

In an era where consumers prize ethics and authenticity, fashion has the potential to become a powerful tool for cultural inclusion and valorization, but this can only happen through a conscious and respectful approach.

Sources

Chumo Lewis (2023), Cultural Appropriation in the Fashion Industry: A Critical Examination of Trends and Implications, Faculty of Arts, Catholic University International Journal of Arts, Recreation and Sports, ISSN: 3005- 5393

Chen & Lee (2019), Cultural Appropriation and Consumer Behavior: Implications for the Fashion Industry. Journal of Consumer Research

Kim & Park (2020), Fashion Weeks and Cultural Appropriation: A Comparative Analysis of Global Events. International Journal of Fashion Studies 

Martinez (2017), Social Media and Cultural Appropriation in Fashion: An Influencer Perspective. Journal of Fashion Communication 

Ng & Wong (2018), Legal Perspectives on Cultural Appropriation in Fashion. Intellectual Property Law Journal

Pham e&Nguyen (2018), Cultural Appropriation in Fashion: A Content Analysis of Indigenous Cultural Symbols. Fashion Studies Journal

Smith & Johnson (2016), Cultural Identity and Cultural Appropriation: Perspectives of Fashion Designers from Marginalized Backgrounds. Fashion and Culture Journal 

The findings show SHEIN’s careless attitude towards the environmental and human health risks associated with the use of hazardous chemicals.

Strict concentration limits are set for products sold in Europe in accordance with the regulation on dangerous chemicals, known as REACH, present as additives or contaminants in fabrics for clothing, accessories and shoes. The EU regulation places the responsibility for providing information on the hazards of the chemicals used on producers of chemicals and manufacturers of products containing the substances. All companies (both manufacturers and brands) must therefore be fully aware of the chemical substances used by their suppliers and take responsibility for eliminating their use, their presence in products, their impacts and any discharges, including those into water.
The REACH Regulation is based on the principle that it is the responsibility for manufacturers, importers and downstream users to ensure that they manufacture, place on the market or use only such substances that do not adversely affect human health or the environment.

It has emerged that SHEIN is breaking hard-won EU environmental regulations on chemicals and risking the health of consumers and the workers at the suppliers that make the products.

Of the 47 products purchased, 7 contained dangerous chemical substances in excess of the limits set by EU regulations, i.e. 15% of the items analysed.

Very high levels of phthalates were found in 5 boots or shoes (FT-17, FT-27, FT-15, FT-35, FT-42) at above 100,000 mg/kg (100%), compared to the requirement in the EU’s REACH regulation of <1,000 mg/kg. The highest level of phthalates was found in some black snow boots (FT-27) bought in Switzerland, at 685,000 mg/kg of DEHP (680%).

The release of nickel above the EU REACH requirements of <0.5 μg/m2/week was found in a pair of red stiletto boots (FT-22) bought in Spain, at 1.5 μg/m2/ week. Also in a suedette moto jacket bought in Spain a quantity of 0.7 μg/m2/week of nickel was found, apparently breaching the REACH requirements for the release of nickel (<0.5 μg/ m2/week). However, there is a margin of uncertainty in the testing.

A total of 15 of the products contain hazardous chemicals at levels of concern (32%).

At least one hazardous chemical was quanti- fied in 45 of the 47 products, although most were at relatively lower levels.

The concern is not only that SHEIN products with illegal levels of hazardous chemicals are being widely sold in Europe, contravening EU regulations, with potential impacts on consumers. It also suggests that SHEIN has little oversight of hazardous chemical management within its supply chain.

“It’s the workers in SHEIN’s suppliers, the people in surrounding communities and the environment in China that bear the brunt of SHEIN’s hazardous chemical addiction”, explained Viola Wohlgemuth, Toxics and Circular economy Campaigner with Greenpeace Germany. “At its core, the linear business model of fast fashion is totally incompatible with a climate-friendly future – but the emergence of ultra fast fashion is further accelerating the climate and environmental catastrophe and must be stopped in its tracks through binding legislation. Alternatives to buying new must become the new norm.”

We also talked about Shein in these articles:

L’indagine Channel 4 dentro le fabbriche di Shein;

Le false dichiarazioni di Shein sulle fabbriche;

Patagonia vs Fast Fashion: leader a confronto.

Source: Greenpeace Germania

In the last Premier Vision Denim fair in Milan we met many Pakistani realities selling denim. This article aims to explore the challenges faced by Pakistan in achieving sustainable denim production and the strategies employed to overcome them.

Denim in Pakistan: A Blue Gold Rush

Pakistan is the third largest preferred cotton-producing countries* in 2019/2020, after Brazil and India. The country is considered as a significantly large producer and exporter of denim, with a long history of textile manufacturing, and is home to several denim mills and factories which produce denim fabrics, garments, and accessories for domestic and international markets.

The denim industry in Pakistan has grown significantly in recent years, thanks to the country’s large labor force, competitive prices, and favorable trade agreements with major markets like the United States and the European Union.

*defined by the list of recognized standards. Includes: ABRAPA, BASF e3, Better Cotton Initiative (BCI), Cleaner Cotton, Cotton made in Africa (CmiA), Fairtrade, Fairtrade Organic, Field to Market, In-Conversion Cotton (Transitional in USA), ISCC, myBMP, Organic, REEL Cotton, Regenerative Cotton, and the USCTP.

Environmental Impact of Denim Production 

Denim production significantly contributes to Pakistan’s economy but has adverse environmental impacts. Which are five environmental impacts of denim production in Pakistan?

• Water pollution
  A major environmental impacts of denim production is water pollution. During denim production, large amounts of chemicals are used to dye and treat the fabric. These chemicals can contaminate the water used in production, leading to pollution of nearby water sources such as rivers and streams. The polluted water can harm aquatic life and people’s health relying on these water sources for drinking and irrigation.
• Energy consumption
  The production of denim requires a considerable amount of energy. The energy is used to power the various machines used in production, including spinning, weaving, and dyeing machines. This energy consumption increases greenhouse gas emissions, contributing to climate change.
• Land use
  Denim production requires large land for cotton cultivation. Using agricultural land for cotton cultivation can lead to deforestation, soil erosion, and biodiversity loss.
• Waste generation
  The denim production process generates a significant amount of waste, including leftover cotton fibers, yarns, and chemicals. These wastes can end up in landfills or be disposed of improperly, leading to further environmental degradation.
• Human health
  The use of chemicals in denim production can have adverse effects on the health of workers and nearby communities. Exposure to these chemicals can cause respiratory problems, skin irritation, and other health issues.

Sustainable Practices in Denim Production in Pakistan 

Like in many other countries, denim production in Pakistan has historically been associated with various environmental and social challenges. Whereas, in recent years, there has been a growing recognition of the need for sustainable practices in denim production, which can help minimize the negative impact on the environment and improve the social conditions of workers involved in the production process.

Here are some sustainable practices in denim production in Pakistan:

• Water conservation
  Denim production is a water-intensive process, and in many cases, water is discharged untreated into nearby water bodies, causing pollution. To address this issue, many denim producers in Pakistan are adopting water conservation measures, such as recycling and reusing water in different stages of production, implementing closed-loop systems, and using low-water dyeing technologies. These practices can significantly reduce the amount of freshwater used in denim production and minimize the risk of water pollution.
• Energy efficiency
  Denim production requires a significant amount of energy, mainly for heating, cooling, and powering machinery. To reduce energy consumption, many denim producers in Pakistan are investing in energy-efficient technologies, such as LED lighting, heat recovery systems, and renewable energy sources like solar and wind power. Using renewable energy sources, denim producers can reduce their reliance on fossil fuels and minimize their carbon footprint.
• Chemical management
  Denim production involves the use of a variety of chemicals, including dyes, finishing agents, and detergents, which can have harmful effects on human health and the environment. To ensure safe use of chemicals, many denim producers in Pakistan are adopting chemical management practices, such as using safer and more eco-friendly chemicals, implementing closed-loop systems for chemical recycling, and ensuring proper disposal of hazardous waste.
• Fair labour practices
  Denim production in Pakistan, like in many other countries, has been associated with labor rights violations, including low wages, long working hours, and poor working conditions. To address these issues, many denim producers in Pakistan are adopting fair labor practices, such as providing workers with safe and healthy working conditions, ensuring fair wages and benefits, and promoting gender equality and diversity in the workplace.
• Product traceability
  Denim production involves complex global supply chains, making it difficult to trace the origin of materials and ensure responsible sourcing practices. To promote transparency and accountability in the supply chain, many denim producers in Pakistan are implementing product traceability systems, like block chain technology and RFID tags, which allow them to track the origin of materials and ensure they meet environmental and social standards.

Challenges in Implementing Sustainable Practices 

Implementing sustainable practices in Pakistan presents several challenges that require careful consideration and planning. A major challenge is the lack of awareness about sustainable practices among the general population. As a result, many people in Pakistan are unaware of the importance of sustainable practices and how they can contribute to preserving the environment. Another challenge is the lack of regulatory framework and enforcement mechanisms to ensure compliance with sustainable practices. This creates a situation where many businesses and industries continue to operate in a manner that is detrimental to the environment.

Additionally, lack of resources and funding for implementing sustainable practices can make it difficult for businesses and organizations to invest in sustainable solutions. Finally, cultural and social norms in Pakistan can also pose challenges to adopting sustainable practices, as some practices may conflict with traditional values and beliefs. Addressing these challenges require a multi-faceted approach that includes awareness campaigns, stronger regulatory frameworks, increased funding and resources, and engagement with local communities to promote understanding and acceptance of sustainable practices.

Success Stories in Sustainable Denim Production in Pakistan 

Pakistan’s denim industry has made significant progress in adopting sustainable practices in recent years. Here are three success stories in sustainable denim production in Pakistan:
* Artistic Milliners
Artistic Milliners is a leading denim manufacturer in Pakistan that has made significant strides in sustainable denim production. The company has invested in sustainable technologies, such as laser printing and ozone washes, to reduce water consumption and chemical use in manufacturing. They have also implemented a closed-loop production system that recycles water and reduces waste.
* Soorty Enterprises
Soorty Enterprises is another Pakistani denim manufacturer implementing sustainable practices in its production processes. The company’s dedicated sustainability department reduces water, chemical, and energy consumption. Soorty has also implemented a water recycling program, which has helped the company reduce its water usage by 40%.
* Naveena Denim
Naveena Denim is a Pakistani denim manufacturer that has invested significantly in sustainable practices. The company has installed a wastewater treatment plant that recycles 100% of the wastewater generated during production. Naveena has also implemented a sustainable chemical management program, which ensures that all chemicals used in the manufacturing process are safe for workers and the environment. Additionally, the company has implemented energy-efficient practices, such as using solar panels to power its factories.

The Future of Sustainable Denim Production in Pakistan 

The future of sustainable denim production in Pakistan is closely tied to the fashion industry’s increasing focus on sustainability. Denim sustainability has become a key priority for many fashion brands as they seek to reduce the environmental impact of their products. Cotton sustainability is also critical, as cotton is the primary raw material used in denim production. In addition to environmental concerns, modern slavery is a significant issue in the textile industry, and brands must ensure that their denim is produced ethically. Textile dyeing is another area where sustainable practices can have a significant impact, as traditional dyeing methods can be highly polluting. As the fashion industry continues to prioritize sustainability, Pakistan’s denim producers must adopt sustainable practices to remain competitive and meet the demands of environmentally conscious consumers.
Pakistani textile companies are just beginning to incorporate Sustainable Business Practices. Not only for the pressure of market forces such as competition and demand (in order to compete in the global market, textile producers must satisfy customers’ environmental demands), but also because textile companies are under the regulatory pressure, for example by European Union’s (EU’s) Scheme of Generalized Scheme of Preferences Plus (GSP+) to avail duty free export to EU. Textile firms are continuously striving hard to adopt sustainable business practices. Net Zero Pakistan, for example, is a national partnership involving cutting-edge businesses, government organizations, and sectoral specialists to achieve Pakistan’s objective of net zero carbon by 2050. 23 signatories of this partnership have committed and set net zero targets, affirmed to measure and disclose transparently the levels and sources of GHG emissions, vowed to decarbonize value chains and lastly have shown interest in advocating for climate action. The textile sector is also actively engaging in international conventions and platforms such as ‘Better Work Programme’, ‘Decent Work Country Programme-IV (2023-27)’, ‘The Accord on Fire and Building Safety’ (source: All Pakistan Textile Mills Association).
Achieving sustainable denim production in Pakistan requires a collective effort from all stakeholders in the industry. While progress has been made in adopting eco-friendly practices, there are still challenges to overcome such as the high cost of sustainable materials and limited access to technology. To address these challenges, manufacturers must invest in research and development, collaborate with international brands and experts, and prioritize the health and safety of workers. As consumers, we can promote sustainable denim production by buying from brands that prioritize sustainability and ethical practices. We can build a more sustainable and responsible denim industry in Pakistan and beyond by working together.

– From our Pakistani correspondent –

Note: the textile industry in Pakistan has been facing a crisis in the last months of 2022 causing a drop of textile exports.

Other articles on jeans and denim >

Photos: Divazus Fabric Store; Claire Abdo; Jason Leung; Maude Frédérique Lavoie.

• they work 7 days a week
• up to 18 hours a day
• they don’t have a break, the employees are forced to wash their hair during their lunch break
• they only have one day off per month
• they make 500 items of clothing a day
• they are paid a maximum of 4,000 yuan per month (about 550 euros)
• for every mistake made, they lose 2/3 of their daily salary
• they receive 4 euro cents per item

violating both Chinese labor laws and Shein’s Supplier Code of Conduct.

Starting at 8 in the morning and ending at 2 the next morning, not having rest, not receiving an adequate salary: this is what, according to the survey, employees endure in order to work.

A Shein spokesperson said to City AM: “We are extremely concerned about the claims made by Channel 4 that they would violate the code of conduct agreed upon by every Shein supplier. Any non-compliance with this code is dealt with quickly and we will end partnerships that do not. meet our standards. We have requested specific information from Channel 4 so that we can investigate.”

It’s not – unfortunately – the first time

In November last year, another report revealed non-compliant working conditions in 17 factories supplying Shein. In interviews conducted by Public Eye researchers, employees reported working three shifts a day, often having only one day off per month, not having an employment contract, and being encouraged to work long hours motivated by the “payment per item” approach. By receiving a sum of money for each completed piece, they are also not guaranteed to be paid in case of quality problems.

From Public Eye’s report:

“We follow our researcher once again, a few kilometres to the West where numerous additional textile factories are located. These factories are generally slightly larger and have up to 300 employees. They usually have reasonably well-functioning ventilation systems and slightly larger workspaces, and there are employee canteens and accommodation in the vicinity. The five employees of larger companies with whom the researcher speaks describe similar working conditions to those already noted: 11 hours a day, no employment contract, and no social security contributions.

In one of the companies, we encounter something that we have not seen elsewhere – a guaranteed minimum income. A recruitment poster at the factory entrance states the minimum incomes for specific tasks: cutting threads: 4,000 yuan; packaging: 5,000 yuan; ironing: 7,000 yuan. The pay difference for ironing is explained by the fact that the workers iron the clothes in constant heat, due to the steam, and can seldom sit down”.

In August 2021 we told about Shein’s false statements about the factories.

Meanwhile, Shein continues to launch “sustainable” initiatives

The company, which releases between 700 and 1,000 new items a day, announced a few days ago the launch of a platform for exchanging and reselling products, currently only available in the US market. “At Shein, we believe it is our responsibility building a fair fashion future for all, while accelerating solutions to reduce textile waste, ”said Adam Whinston, head of the company’s CSR division (Forbes, October 2022).

The reaction of an influencer agency

Meanwhile, Georgia Portugal, who recruits UK influencers to promote brands on social media, told her followers that she has decided she and her agency will no longer work with Shein: “We will no longer be working with Shein, no longer getting our clients any collaborations with Shein, until their working conditions change”. Portogallo made its decision after learning how workers are paid in Chinese factories that produce clothes for Shein. The influencer appears in Channel 4’s investigative video to explain how young people are drawn to Shein’s social media promotions with the lure of free clothes. “After watching this documentary, I now know – 100 per cent it’s confirmed to me – that their staff are underpaid, they work too many long hours, they don’t get days off. The whole working conditions are horrendous.” (iNews, October 2022). “Shein Hauls” are viewed millions of times on YouTube and TikTok. Young people open the delivered packages, try on clothes and comment in front of the camera.

The severance of relationships with Shein by influencer marketing agencies is a good way to increase the pressure on the ultra-fast fashion brand, which is aimed primarily at younger people.

Cover photo: Channel 4

Does more sustainable cotton automatically indicate a brand’s sustainability? Primark communicates the progress of the Sustainable Cotton Program and there is nothing but talk of sustainability after the launch of the Primark Cares line. The Irish fashion retailer, owned by Associated British Foods (ABF), says it aims for garments to last longer, to reduce the company’s impact on the planet and to improve the lives of the people who make the products.

In the section dedicated to sustainability, between attention to the environment and commitment to people the multitude of virtuous messages strikes the reader. Is this really the case if we take a closer look at the data? Why did the sale of the recycled plastic sweatshirt with the word Earth Day, close to Earth Day, aroused not a few accusations of greenwashing?

First, the information on the site is not easily accessible, clear and transparent. Referring also to the pages of the parent company ABF, we try to find out more.

Environment

Raw materials

Currently one third of the products are made with recycled, organic or materials from the Sustainable Cotton Program, which involves farmers who apply more sustainable practices. While many techniques are used by organic farmers within the cotton program, Primark’s sustainable cotton is by definition not organic. Primark expects to reach 100% products with more sustainable materials by 2030.

A collection was created in collaboration with Recover, an innovator in recycled cotton. There are recovered plastic fabrics. There is no evidence of the sustainability of all other materials used.

Primark is committed to reducing harmful substances subject to production restrictions (Restricted Substances List) along the supply chain, reaching the goal of “zero release” in 2020. However, there is no evidence that this target is achieved.

Design

Primark declares a commitment to reducing the environmental impact in the design phase of products in the coming years, but there are no details on the decrease in production or the raw materials used, nor on the increase in quality and on the extension of the life cycle of the product.

They say they want to increase the durability level. At the moment it concerns in practice only denim. A much more intensive test cycle of 30 washes was introduced for a large sample of men’s, women’s and children’s denim. This level of rigor is recommended by WRAP and the Ellen MacArthur Foundation.

Waste

“96% of all waste generated by Primark’s direct operations was diverted from the landfill”, is reported in the ESG report, without specifying which processes they refer to (it seems to mean those relating to the distribution and sale of fashion items) . Among the published data we read that out of 57,000 tons of textile waste produced in 2021, 54,000 were recycled, with no details on how. The in-store recycling scheme is mentioned, with collection boxes available in all 191 stores in across the UK, recently extended to Germany, Austria and the Netherlands Primark partners with Yellow Octopus, whose goal is that all donations are reused or recycled so that nothing ends up in landfills.

Packaging

In 2021 Primark created 41,000 tons of packaging. It removed 175 million units of plastic. Uses recycled paper bags. The hangers are made of recycled cardboard. It has eliminated 86 million labels and adhesives from products and aims to eliminate single-use plastics by 2027.

Water consumption

In the ESG report, we read about the commitment to reduce the use of water but cotton, which requires large quantities, is an essential raw material for Primark: in 2020 it represented about half of the total mix of fibers used. There are no data on the total use of water for textile production.

Emissions

Also in this case we read the objective: 50% reduction of emissions (GHG) along the Primark value chain by 2030. Last year the company directly produced 119,000 tons of CO2e, to which it add 4,783,000 tons indirectly generated by third party transportation and extended inventory.

Energy

In the reports of the parent company, the total use for the retail part of 461 GWh is indicated, of which 0% is currently renewable. Primark has achieved ISO 50001 certification for retail outlets, offices and distribution centers in some of the established markets.

People

Suppliers are chosen according to a Code of Conduct, defined by the company. This set of guiding principles is based on the internationally recognized labor standards of the International Labor Organization (ILO) and the Basic Code of the Ethical Trading Initiative (ETI)*. Primark audits its suppliers through an annual on-site inspection. “Our Fair Trade and Environmental Sustainability team has more than 130 local experts”, it explains on the website. “Their task is to carry out, at least once a year, in-person checks at all the plants we work with and also to hold training courses for staff and workers”.

The site mentions a number of projects in India, Myanmar, Bangladesh, China, Indonesia, Vietnam and Cambodia. Among these, the collaboration with the ILO in the Better Work program is the one that gives the greatest guarantee of commitment to improving labor standards in countries where workers are less protected.

Primark was among the first retailers to sign the Fire and Building Safety Agreement in Bangladesh, initiated by IndustriALL and UNI Global Union. It was also one of the first to provide factory victims and families affected by the collapse with financial support and food aid after the Rana Plaza disaster. Primark has since been committed to offering financial advice and guidance. In addition, the Irish retailer has launched the “Pashe Achi Project” to ensure that compensation recipients retain access to their financial compensation.

* It is a leading alliance of companies, trade unions and NGOs that promotes respect for workers’ rights around the world.

Is everything okay on the social point of view?

On traceability, Primark shares online the map and the list of Tier 1 suppliers map and list of the Tier 1 suppliers (the partners with whom it interfaces directly, who cut and sew the garments).

However, there is no evidence of an increase in the number of paid workers with a living wage, nor transparency on existing working conditions for workers and the supply chain. There is no evidence that all the raw materials used were produced with respect for the human rights of farmers and their communities.

Someone fears that the company’s private talks with workers, described as an instrument of protection, are not sufficient to protect them, because they are not carried out by reliable external organizations. Often union members are threatened or fired: how does Primark ensure that they are allowed inside the factories and protected so that they can do their job freely?

It appears that the annual inspections are supported by independent audit firms, so that the integrity of the audits is not affected. However, the audit reports are not publicly shared, thus generating many questions about how well Primark is ensuring the protection of its workers’ rights. Similarly, the company has a complaints system in place but does not disclose data relating to complaints submitted.

Clean Clothes Campaign  denounced lower wages and non-payment during months of detention due to the pandemic by multinationals including Primark. Nearly 70% of the workers surveyed endured periods when normal pre-pandemic wages were not paid. All these workers survived on poverty wages even before the pandemic and it has become even more difficult to live in dignity. Additionally, workers report increased production targets, unsafe working conditions, and harassment from management. Primark has made some progress this year by engaging in  #PayUp to raise wages and signing the renewal of the Fire and Building Safety Agreement in Bangladesh.

There is recent news of a Primark manager who sues the company for sex discrimination, after she was told to work late despite having a newborn child (source Independent).

Certifications

There is no information on the certifications most used in the more responsible fashion, except in some garments such as a type of jeans certified CradleToCradle. Only in cosmetics, cruelty free certified by Leaping Bunny. However, they are not vegan, because some products may contain ingredients from animal derivatives.

Responsible consumption and other issues

Low prices

The policy of the retail giant is that of low prices, reaffirmed by the recent statement by George Weston, ABF CEO: “We are committed to maintaining our leadership position in terms of price and accessibility in everyday life, especially in this context of growing economic uncertainty”. However, Primark has recently communicated an increase on the tags of the autumn-winter collections, due to the increase in the prices of raw materials and energy following the invasion of Ukraine by Russia. For this reason alone, the group expects a reduction in the margins of its activities.

“For more than ten years”, explains Luca Ciuffreda, head of Primark for Italy, “we have been able to guarantee low prices because we do not advertise, we have reduced the packaging to a minimum, the hangers are made of recycled cardboard, and we have control, ethical too, on the production chain, which is often the same as that of luxury brands”(Source Laborability).

Sandals at £ 4, summer bags £ 10, perfume and clothes £ 7, sunglasses £ 2. How is it possible to implement especially social sustainability with such low prices?

The quality is also in doubt. This is the case of surf wetsuits, the subject of debate in these days. A Cornish surf magazine recently attacked Primark’s new range of wetsuits, calling them “cheap”, “sad” and “high treason at sea”. Cornwall Live says the garments will be “thrown away in no time”. The cost for Primark wetsuits is £ 38 for the full length and £ 32 for the short version. By comparison, an Xcel wetsuit, considered one of the world’s leading companies in the field, costs between £ 100 and £ 300. Another trade magazine, Real Surfing Magazine, also hit the fashion chain urging readers to think twice first. to purchase the new product line.

Volumes and speed of purchases

There is no trace of the company’s commitment to produce less with the aim of spreading a more responsible consumption and production model. A fundamental aspect to demonstrate awareness of the climate crisis and the limits of our planet’s resources.

Instead, there are clues to strategies for inviting customers to buy more and things they often don’t need. In the Channel 5 documentary Primark: How Do They Do It?, psychologist Dr Amna Khan put tools on the table to induce people to buy extra items and extend their stay in the store. In the documentary she declares:

“A destination store creates an experience for the consumer, almost like going to a theme park where all your senses are activated and you want to stay longer”.

Primark buys large retail spaces and adds extra experiences such as bars and beauty services to tempt customers to hang out and spend more. Because it doesn’t sell online like many of its competitors, shoppers are forced to visit the store in person, where they are exposed and tempted to purchase more goods and services, such as manicures. The £ 1 secret toy is another tool that Primark shoppers are obsessed with, emotionally captured by childhood memories.

The company has included some recommendations on the maintenance of the garments by the customers in order to extend the life.

Other issues

A Primark’s customer claims that a store-bought bra left her skin sore and sore. Rika Smith from Blackwood was left with itchy and sore skin after wearing the garment for the first time.

A woman in size UK 10 was furious after purchasing a pair of size 12 pants from Primark without being able to put them on. Ally Marie told her story on TikTok to send a message: “Primark this is ridiculous, no wonder people are struggling with body image. I normally have a size 8/10 in jeans and I have to take a size 14 from Primark”.

In the speed of releasing new collections and the pressure to design new garments, ultra-fast fashion companies are not new to episodes of plagiarism. The presentation of a coat on Instagram was greeted by an avalanche of “likes” and compliments, but also by the Daily Record‘s observation of the strong resemblance to the oversize coat from the winter collection of Blancha, a Tuscan clothing brand. The original garment is in shearling, made in Italy, and the quality in the design and production phase is reflected in the price.

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From that moment on, the spotlight began to be focused on what lies behind the fashion industry. We talk about it every year because we don’t want this dramatic event to happen in vain, and to stop the repetition of tragedies like this one.

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We talk about this and the theme of 2022 edition (Money, Fashion, Power) in the last live episode with Carlotta Redaelli.

You can listen the episode here: Soldi. Moda. Potere.

Or on Spotify:

But who pays the price for us?

One of the problems of fast fashion, which we have written about many times, is that in most cases the low price is the result of a lack of recognition of a fair wage and appropriate working conditions for people involved in the production of the garments. For this reason, consumers are increasingly asking for more transparency on the production chain.

Shein offers tens of thousands of styles, about 1,000 are added every day.

An even faster production pace: “ultra-fast-fashion”, as it is more correct to call it, comparing it with other fast fashion brands such as Missguided and Fashion Nova, which release around 1,000 new styles a week.

Shein is able to reach millions of young shoppers directly through social media without a physical retail space, relying on search traffic and customer data to foreshadow trends. “I don’t even know what it is,” says a TikTok user voice showing a pink rabbit toy bought on Shein. On social media, the fast fashion brand is sometimes the object of ridicule, selling items without a clear thought.

Referred to as China’s most mysterious billionaire company (it refuses to publicise its investors), Shein has not disclosed the information on working conditions along its supply chain required by law in the UK.

Without evidence to the contrary, it is difficult to believe their claim to “make social responsibility a priority”. Considering for example that in Shenzhen, China, where the original factory is located, there are harsh working conditions and virtually no protection for the working class. Or considering how difficult it is to believe that there is a feasible way to produce at such a fast pace without adopting unethical work practices.

The Fashion Transparency Index, compiled by Fashion Revolution activists, gave Shein an overall score of 1 in 100 in a report compiled earlier this year. On traceability, one of the key metrics in the Index, Shein has a score of 0.

Not only lack of transparency:

until recently, the company falsely claimed on its website that the conditions in the factories it uses were certified by international bodies for labor standards (source: Reuters). In a statement on the site (noted by Reuters on July 26), Shein said the factories were “certified” by the International Organization for Standardization (ISO) and that Shein was “proudly complying with rigorous fair labor standards set by international organizations such as SA8000”.

SA8000 is a management systems standard based on international human rights principles outlined by the International Labor Organization and the United Nations, measuring companies’ performance in eight areas including child labor, forced labor and health and safety.

ISO is a global organization that develops commercial, industrial and technical standards. Companies pay certification bodies to implement and verify these standards at their organizations. The ISO only sets standards and does not carry out the certifications themselves.

“Shein doesn’t work with very large factories but [with] small and medium-sized workshops that collect orders every day,” according to Matthew Brennan, a Chinese writer and technology analyst based in Beijing. “It’s very similar to an Uber system, where new orders arrive on factory owners’ phones. It’s very poor, but efficient.”

In the social responsibility section of their site, Shein states that they never used child or forced labor, but doesn’t provide complete information on the supply chain. British law requires companies of certain sizes to link similar statements on the site to detailed explanations of the measures taken along the supply chain to avoid modern slavery.

What’s worse than lack of transparency? A false statement. While awaiting updates from Shein, we reflect on all the other more or less ethical aspects of a business model far away from a slow and conscious fashion.

Sources: Reuters; Vox; The Mycenaean; SupChina. Photo: Shein’s website.

Francesco Gesualdi is an activist, essayist and coordinator of the Centro Nuovo Modello di Sviluppo in Vecchiano (PI) who deals with social and environmental imbalances at an international level. The Center also carries out research on the social and environmental behavior of companies to inform consumers and proposes actions to oppose the mechanisms that generate injustice and unhealthy development.

It is a delicate issue, that of the skin. As is that of food consumption of meat. Each of us makes personal choices, also regarding sustainability, and we always prefer to use very calm tones, inviting us to take one step at a time. However, it is our responsibility to make known the impact of fabrics and materials and we cannot fail to mention leather. Respecting everyone’s choices, we have the task of informing.

It is not just a question of animal abuse, of which we retrace the main aspects with Francesco. There are also other dark sides of an industry that we are afraid to talk about, as Francesco tells us, who deals with these issues to try to understand and make known what happens behind the products we buy.

In the end I decided to leave all of Francesco’s intervention entirely, without synthesizing. I thank him for his patience and willingness to highlight the most salient aspects of the report. We also involved Deborah Lucchetti, president of the Clothes Campaign in Italy, for an in-depth study on leather. We asked both of us what we can do as more aware consumers and what brands can do as more responsible producers.

At the beginning, the report touches the issue of the environmental impact of livestock farms, from which leather originates. The water consumed, the food used, the occupied land and the waste produced. Francesco, is there any data or aspect you would like to emphasize?

“Meat is an increasingly discussed sector, not only for the mistreatment of animals, but also for its impact on health and the environment.

In 2015, the announcement by the World Health Organization that included red meat among the risk factors for cancer onset caused a sensation, but various studies had already associated high meat consumption with colorectal cancers. Similarly, the correlation between livestock farms and climate change is now documented. FAO estimates that greenhouse gases emitted by animal farms amount to 8.3 gigatonnes of CO2 equivalent, equal to 15% of all greenhouse gases produced by human action. To the methane emitted directly by ruminants, the carbon dioxide emissions associated with the production of soy, as well as corn and other cereals fed to animals should be added to the count. It is estimated that between 35% and 40% of the entire world production of cereals is used feeding animals, a share destined to increase considering that the consumption of meat is on the rise. In conclusion, we dedicate 4 billion hectares to animal breeding, equal to 77% of agricultural land and 44% of agricultural and forest land.
And finally the consumption of water. It takes 15,000 liters (15 cubic meters) of water to produce one kilo of beef. Basically you need a small pool full of water for four steaks. A fact that seems impossible until we examine what a beast eats during its life cycle: 1,300 kilos of grain and 7,200 kilos of forage. It takes a lot of water to make all this stuff grow. In addition, 24 cubic meters of water must be added to quench the beast’s thirst and 7 cubic meters to keep it clean. The conclusion is that to produce one kilo of beef it takes 6.5 kilos of grains, 36 kilos of fodder and 15 cubic meters of water. And there is less and less water in the world”.

The players of the tanning industry claim to play a positive environmental role, because they eliminate a waste product generated by the meat industry. Is really like what they say?

“The tanning industrialists claim to play a beneficial role for environmental purposes, because they free us from a waste produced by the meat industry as if they were scavengers. But the round of money that revolves around leather is so massive that it remains difficult to conceive it as a sector that relies on the production of leftovers by others. Just think that it represents the basis on which an industrial empire is built, strongly connected to luxury, consisting of shoes, handbags, belts, wallets, furniture and car upholstery, etc., for a total turnover estimated at over one trillion dollars a year. In conclusion, without the skin a world would collapse.
Leafing through any magazine dedicated to leather, tanneries’ owners complain about the shortage of raw materials everywhere. So it is more likely to imagine the two sectors, the meat industry and the leather industry, as two allies working together to grow the breeding and slaughtering industry”.

United States, Brazil, China are the major producers of raw hides. Europe follows. What is Italy’s role in the sector that emerges from the report?

“Italy does not have large livestock farms: with six million head of cattle raised, it represents just 0.36% of the world total. Consequently, the production of raw hides is also reduced: just 1% of the total in 2013. Nevertheless, it has a long and lively tanning tradition, so in terms of weight it contributes 9% of the world production of leather for sole and 7.4% of the world production of tanned cowhide for all other purposes. In monetary terms, it represents even 17% of the total world production and 30% of exports of finished leathers.
Over the past 40 years, the Italian tanning industry has undergone profound transformations. Traditionally it worked raw hides which brought to finished hides through the various stages of tanning. But since the eighties of the last century, there has been a growing abandonment of the first tanning phase, to focus on the final phases. A change due to two great phenomena. On the one hand, the introduction of stricter environmental laws that forced companies to make investments that not everyone wanted or could support. On the other hand, the increase in the price of raw leather due to the increase in duties by the producing countries as a strategy to promote their tanning industry.
The result is that today, of all the cowhide produced in Italy, only 25% is obtained from the internal processing of raw leather. All the rest is only retanning of wet blue (ed: chrome tanned leathers still wet) from abroad. This quota, added to the raw leather, leads to the conclusion that 97% of the Italian produced leather originates from raw leather of foreign origin“.

In our country, tanning activity is concentrated in 3 districts: Arzignano in Veneto, along the Chiampo Valley in the province of Vicenza, Santa Croce in Tuscany, between the provinces of Pisa and Florence, and Solofra in Campania, between Naples and Avellino. In particular, the municipality of Arzignano, which contributes 52% to the production figure.
Santa Croce, which supplies 28% of total production, focuses more on high-end production geared towards footwear and leather goods. You have chosen to study in the Santa Croce district. What kind of realities are there in the area? Which ones did you investigate?

“In the Santa Croce area the tanning activity has a very ancient presence, but it assumes the characteristics of an industrial district since 1800. To better understand the physiognomy of the district, it should be borne in mind that to obtain a finished leather the contribution of processes beyond tanning in the strict sense. Briefly, the working phases of the leather can be divided into three sections: pre-tanning, tanning and finishing. The pre-tanning is used to free the leather from dirt, hair, residues of meat and fat. Tanning is used to transform the leather into a rot-proof material. The finishing is used to give the leather the desired aesthetic appearance such as thickness, color, shine, impermeability and much more.
In total, there are 240 tanneries in the Santa Croce district, most of which are small. Some of them are equipped to carry out all the work phases within them, but this is a rarity. Most have only the machinery strictly necessary for the tanning phase. For this reason, many other laboratories have sprung up in the district, over 500, for the execution of specific processes. These are the so-called subcontractors that the tanneries use for the execution of preliminary and final type processes that require special machinery.
According to data provided by the Chamber of Commerce, in 2014 the district was made up of 1,027 companies, 77% directly involved in leather processing, 18.5% dedicated to commercial activities and 4.5% to supply of machinery.

The situation is more complex with respect to employment because there are two large categories of employees: those directly employed by manufacturing companies and those hired by temporary work agencies, also called temporary workers. In truth, the situation is a bit confusing because we had to use several sources that are not always perfectly consistent with each other. In the end, the figure that seems closest to reality is that in the district, in 2014, 12,698 people work, of which 9,247 (72%) directly employed by manufacturing companies and 3,451 (28%) employed by temporary agencies“.

I would like you to tell us about the situation in the district. Let’s start with illegal work. 48.6% of companies in which you have encountered the phenomenon is an impressive figure. What is behind this percentage?

“Despite the wide range of forms of recruitment offered by the law, the district continues to resort to undeclared work, which is the most serious form of violation of workers’ rights because it deprives them of accident insurance and payments for pensions.
In Italy, the task of verifying the application of the law, in the field of employment relationships, is delegated to the territorial authority called ‘Provincial Labor Directorate’. Inspectors intervene on their own initiative or upon complaint. From 1 January 2011 to 31 December 2014, 181 companies (tanneries and subcontractors) were inspected in the Santa Croce district (with the exclusion of the municipality of Fucecchio) for a total of 999 workers. Of these, 70% were of Italian nationality and 30% immigrants. Overall, irregularities were found concerning 208 workers, including 112 totally illegal. 43% of the undeclared workers were immigrants. Among the possible forms of irregularities – denounces Loris Mainardi, a union exponent – is that of hiring workers with reduced-time or part-time contracts, and then having them work full-time”. Half a day with a contract and half a day off. A growing habit, according to the CGIL. “The salary of these workers – continues Mainardi – will not be all in the paycheck, with significant savings both in tax and social security contributions by the companies”.

What other important aspect does the report highlight that as consumers or creators of sustainable fashion we should know?

“On its long journey from raw leather to finished product, leather goes through many stages and passes through many factories. Each process presents a potential health risk for workers, which however becomes a real threat based on the choices made by individual companies. Therefore, the actual risk depends on the modernity of the systems, the presence of protective devices, compliance with hygiene standards, the training of employees. The reality of Santa Croce is too fragmented to be able to give a detailed picture of the situation. Modern tanneries, of large and attentive to the regulations in force, they coexist with small tanneries and small subcontractors who unwillingly invest in hygiene and safety and indeed try to increase their earnings by defrauding the tax authorities, hiring illegally, violating accident prevention laws.
By general admission, the first stages of leather processing are those that expose you to greater fatigue and discomfort due to the handling of heavy, dirty material, laden with residues of meat and fat. In fact, the fleshing and splitting workers are entitled to an allowance of 5.37 euros per month, but judging it unattractive, the Italians prefer to leave it to immigrants.

Since it is necessary to lift and move very heavy skins, due to the high water content, muscle and skeletal pathologies are frequent among workers in this first phase. In 2011, the Section of Occupational Medicine responsible for the Santa Croce district conducted a study on 101 fleshing workers, with an average age of 44, of which 37 were foreigners. Of all workers examined, 31 tested positive for spinal disorders.
Expanding the view to the entire tanning sector of Santa Croce, from 2009 to 2013 there were 720 accidents with an annual distribution of a fluctuating type. Considering that 528 involved Italian workers, at first glance it seems that the most affected are the Italians. But by comparing the number of injured persons with the number of employed persons of the same nationality, we find that the incidence of accidents among Italian workers is 7.6%, while among immigrants it is 14.4%.
In addition to accidents, there is the problem of occupational diseases in tanneries. That is, of those disturbances that arise over time, due to contact with dangerous substances, by staying in unhealthy environments, by carrying out tiring work. There were 493 cases of occupational diseases recognized in the Santa Croce district from 1997 to 2014, which can be divided into five major groups: musculoskeletal diseases, tumors, dermatitis, hearing disorders, respiratory diseases. Musculoskeletal diseases are the most numerous.
And finally the environmental problem. The tanning industry has a great impact on the environment, not only for the consequences caused by the livestock that supplies leather, but also for the large consumption of water and the huge amount of biological and chemical waste that is generated during the industrial phase. The tanneries in the Santa Croce district consume about 6 million cubic meters of water per year, mainly drawn from the groundwater found in the subsoil.
From every ton of raw leather, from 200 to 250 kg of chrome tanned leather can be obtained, which overall may require the use of a quantity of water ranging from 15 to 50 tons, 500 kg of chemicals and between 9.3 and 42 GJ of energy. Therefore, for each ton of processed leather, between 60 and 250 tons of polluted water are produced (containing, among other substances, about 20-30 kg of chromium and 50 kg of sulphide), between 1,800 and 3,650 kg of solid residues, 2,500 kg of sludge, between 4 and 50 kg of solvents emitted into the air”.

What is the aspect that touched you most when carrying out this survey?

“The sense of fear. Throughout the survey we perceived the workers’ fear of talking. Fear of telling stories, of describing their working conditions, of listing the abuses they are forced into. Fear of losing their job. Above all by immigrants, especially those with expired residence permits who are therefore forced to work illegally, accepting any condition: the bitter fruit of the Bossi-Fini law which requires a job to issue a residence permit, but requires a residence permit to obtain a job.
But we also found the sense of silence among trade union leaders, political authorities, labor offices, Inail, the ASL, the Labor Inspectorate. In Santa Croce the tanners are a power, nobody wants to turn them against them. Even the most banal statistical data of an economic, employment and commodity nature are difficult to find. All delay, all postpone and in the end all are silent. For fear of retaliation: in terms of employment, in terms of tax revenues, in terms of charitable contributions. But in silence the abuses continue”.

In January 2016, the CYS consortium was informed by DG DEVCO that two European business associations, the European Confederation of the Shoe Industry (CEC) and the European Confederation of the Leather Industry (COTANCE), had lodged a complaint with DG GROWTH (the EC Department for Economic and Industrial Development) on the contents of the report. What happened?

“This is a very long story lasting about a year, described in detail in the introductory part of our report. It must be said that the report on tanneries in Italy was part of a project on the defense of workers’ rights, co-financed by the Union European. The contract expressly provided for the type of research we carried out. But the results did not please the tanning industry which mobilized at every level (local, national, European) to denigrate us and force us to withdraw the report. There was a complaint at some offices of the European Commission that we were recalled and induced to withdraw the report.
But since there was no basis for formal objections either from a content point of view or from a contractual point of view, the thing was played on an unofficial level by the offices of the European Commission: just enough to make us to understand that if we did not comply with the request of the tanners we would have had trouble in terms of financing, but without ever telling us in black and white. And after a long back and forth, two unregulated meetings in Brussels, an intervention by some European parliamentarians to ensure that funding was not interrupted, and above all many phone calls that leave no traces, in the end the group of NGOs that carried out the project decided to capitulate, extrapolating the report from the co-financed project, with all the consequences also on the financial level: the expenses for the report were transferred to the project by the participants.
A sad story, that has shown us in a practical way how close is the link between the business world and the offices of the European Commission. A system of power against which neither validity of data nor seriousness of research count. The only thing that counts is the balance of power and in Brussels the lobbies of force have a lot”.

Why is the report hampered?

“The tanners did not like the report, and consequently not even the offices of the European Commission, because it highlights that even in Europe, companies violate the laws and mistreat workers.
Reports on the workers’ rights not respected are fine when it comes to China, Cambodia, Bangladesh, not when it comes to what is happening in the heart of the European Union. Then a thousand quibbles are pulled out and when the scientific and legal quibbles cannot be invoked because everything has been done correctly, then the most subtle means of pressure are used, those that leave no trace and that if you try to tell them make you risk a libel complaint”.

What can we as consumers do?

“Keep informed and choose. Keep informed to know what happens, who does not behave responsibly and then act. In three ways: supporting those who provides counter information; implementing responsible consumption in order to exert pressure on companies that behave badly by excluding them from our purchases; participating in movements such as the Clean Clothes Campaign, which, outside the schemes of power, defend the rights of workers”.

And as a brand that is committed to sustainability?

They must get out of hypocrisy, stop making high-sounding statements just to defend their image. On the contrary, they must put into practice the demands made by groups in defense of human rights, workers’ rights, in defense of the environment. Fashion brands, although they try to disengage more and more from the direct management of production activities, continue to maintain great responsibility and great power with respect to how to produce. Production is becoming more and more outsourced, but they – the brands – continue to be the puppet master, determining the quality of work and the impact on the environment of the entire production chain. They do so by paying too low prices to subcontractors, imposing delivery times that are too short, continuing not to include social and environmental clauses in their supply contracts. In a word, brands must stop being part of the problem and turn into part of the solution by behaving more responsibly: paying higher prices to subcontractors, demanding more dignified working conditions and salaries from subcontractors, equipping themselves with an apparatus that verifies quality social and environmental aspects of the production made for them, opening up to transparency. Which does not mean telling only the things that make a good impression, but everything, including shame. Only in this way will we understand that we are faced with companies that want to be serious”.

Thank you Francesco for taking your time to delve into this phenomenon and also for telling it here, in order to spread the main messages of the “A tough story of leather” report.

We asked Deborah Lucchetti, president of the Clean Clothes campaign, for a point of view on the leather issue, on which research has continued in other countries of the world.

Deborah, are there any other aspects related to leather that you want to bring to attention?

“The leather industry has a huge environmental and social impact in the world. The regions where tanneries are located, particularly in countries with more inefficient regulatory and control systems, are characterized by abnormal levels of water and soil pollution, environmental damage and health risks for workers and surrounding communities.
Our research has highlighted how these problems arise from careless treatment of wastewater and solid waste deriving from the tanning process. The most significant risk is related to the use of Chromium III which in certain circumstances can turn into the more toxic and carcinogenic Chromium VI (CrVI) and become a serious threat to workers.
If solid waste and untreated wastewater containing Cr (VI) are abandoned on open land, they can contaminate surrounding water bodies, including drinking water, for decades. In addition, irrigation water rich in Cr (VI) and sewage sludge can damage the land and crops surrounding the tanneries, thus putting the survival of the entire population at risk.
Our research also revealed a number of occupational health and safety issues. Ailments such as chronic fever, respiratory problems and eye and skin irritation caused by direct contact with chemical agents are common, also due to the chronic absence of personal protective equipment and safety training.
Added to this are extremely precarious working conditions, starvation wages, irregular employment contracts and the absence of social and health insurance protection. This combination of illness and financial insecurity forces many of those interviewed into a daily battle for survival, a situation which has been further aggravated by the pandemic crisis”.

I ask also you: what can we consumers do to stop the phenomenon?

“Consumers should first of all put on the shoes of active citizenship. Get information and support public awareness and pressure campaigns to force companies to behave responsibly. Think many times before buying and, in case of actual need, carefully consider the purchase by addressing their preference for those transparent companies that best demonstrate that they are pursuing sustainability policies and that can demonstrate that they do what they claim. Furthermore, citizen-consumers should also support the recycling, reuse and exchange chain“.

What can brands more engaged in sustainability do?

“Companies should capitalize on decades of public campaigns and proposals aimed at truly reforming the fashion supply chains: first of all they should adhere to the minimum requirements on supply chain transparency, revealing where they produce but should go further, making known the composition of workers in factories, wage levels, the presence of free trade unions. Furthermore, they should undertake binding commitments that guarantee respect for human rights along the entire supply chain, starting with the payment of living wages. The effective fruition of fundamental rights by all the workers employed in the brand supply chains constitutes the only true indicator of social sustainability to measure the degree of Social Responsibility otherwise only stated on paper”.

Fhotos: Cover m0851; Theo Leconte; Nighthawk Shoots; from DW’s documentary; Robbie Noble; Alvaro Serrano.