Luxurywashing: Does luxury rhyme with ethics?
If we were to ask those who buy designer clothes worth thousands of euros whether they believe these products are more sustainable, many would likely say yes. The high price is often interpreted as a guarantee of quality, traceability, and respect for labor rights. However, the recent scandal involving Loro Piana—a historic Italian cashmere brand under investigation for labor exploitation—undermines this belief. And it’s not an isolated case. Max Mara, Dior, Armani, Valentino are among other luxury brands recently implicated in cases of poor labor conditions. It points to a deeper issue. In this article-podcast, we explore the phenomenon of luxurywashing—the construction of a “green and ethical” image that masks…
“You’re Obese”: The Dark Tale of the Workers Behind the Glitter
When fashion forgets who sews it In the 1960s and 1970s, female textile workers in Reggio Emilia went on strike in major factories like Confit, Bloch, Maska, Max Mara, and not just for wages. They demanded rights over their bodies, their health, their time. They worked in environments saturated with fibers, standing for hours, with night shifts that left no room for motherhood, life, dignity. Those women, often invisible in the union narratives of the time, brought a new urgency to the heart of the factories: the struggle was not just economic. It was existential. In cases like Max Mara, the workers demanded recognition of the trade unions and national…
Silk waste between innovation and sustainability: interview with Cosetex
Silk is synonymous with luxury and glamour, but did you know that it can also be an innovative and environmentally friendly material? In the new episode of our podcast, we interviewed Silvio Mandelli, CEO of Cosetex, a company with over 120 years of experience in the recovery of silk waste. Cosetex has revolutionized the industry by transforming what was once considered waste into new opportunities: natural padding, high-quality yarns and collaborations with the denim world. Silvio tells us about the environmental benefits of silk, such as its ability to capture CO2 and the fact that it does not produce plastic microfibers. But what does “silk waste” really mean? How did…
The Gentle Revolution of Slow Fiber
In this episode we meet Dario Casalini, founder of Slow Fiber, the project created in collaboration between Slow Food Italy and some virtuous Italian textile companies. Dario tells us about the need for a “gentle revolution” to counter the fast fashion model, in a context in which the economy shifts wealth from many to few without actually creating well-being for humanity. Slow Fiber wants to positively change the paradigm of production, consumption and, therefore, the perception of textiles. Today, in fact, we find ourselves immersed in a consumerist and fast-fashion lifestyle, as Dario states. Slow Fiber uses a series of KPIs (Key Performance Indicators) to evaluate the companies that join…
Transforming Fashion: Embracing Made-to-Order Models for Sustainability
The fashion industry, once synonymous with creativity and expression, now grapples with its own demons: overproduction, environmental degradation, and ethical concerns. As awareness of the harsh realities of fast fashion spreads worldwide, an increasing number of voices are advocating for change. In this evolving landscape, the emergence of made-toorder business models offers a ray of hope—a chance to fundamentally transform the fashion industry. The Dark Side of Fashion Fashion’s current trajectory is not just concerning—it’s downright alarming. The relentless production of clothing by fast fashion large corporations, not only overwhelms landfills but also poses a significant threat to our oceans, our communities, and our collective conscience. The sheer volume of…
Penalties and advertising ban: France stops fast fashion companies
The French National Assembly has unanimously adopted the bill aimed at reducing the environmental impact of the textile industry, which will have to continue its legislative process in the Senate. Intended to curb “fast fashion”, the text provides: the ban on advertising for the sale of clothing at rock-bottom prices the decision to define fast fashion based on a set number of items placed on the market annually an enhanced environmental penalty to make fast fashion products less attractive Furthermore, companies that sell disposable fashion online will have to display messages near the price on their website that: raise awareness of the environmental impact of their products; encourage sobriety, reuse,…
After Mylo, the “leather” from mycelium, also Circulose, the textile fiber from recycled cotton, stops
Last year, the company Bolt Threads decided to put Mylo, an innovative “leather” from mycelium, on hold, despite the support of large brands such as Adidas, Kering and Stella McCartney. A couple of weeks ago, Renewcell, the renowned manufacturer of Circulose, had to file for bankruptcy despite significant support and partnerships gained in the industry. The pause of Bolt Threads and the failure of Renewcell, two major players in sustainable fashion, raise questions about the fashion industry’s effectiveness in supporting innovative solutions to reduce environmental impact. Renewcell Renewcell is a Swedish company known for its technology that recycles cotton T-shirts and jeans destined for landfill into a new material, Circulose,…
Mango and brands’ investment in clothing rental
In March 2023, the online press reported the investment of the fast fashion brand Mango in clothing rental. In fact, the large fashion company has started a pilot test called “Mango Renting” to enter the rental business, investing in the La Más Mona platform. With this initiative, the Spanish clothing giant offers customers the opportunity to borrow a limited selection of its garments: 40 items updated monthly, with prices ranging from 30 to 36 euros. You select the dress, choose the delivery date and schedule the collection within 4 days at the original delivery address or another chosen by the customer. Mango started this pilot test with the aim of…
Is pineapple leaf fabric sustainable?
Pinatex is an innovative fabric created as a sustainable alternative to both mass-produced leather and polluting synthetic materials. It is made from pineapple leaves by Ananas Anam, a UK-based B-corporation. For the SUMAS sustainable fashion management MBA, I prepared a detailed analysis to evaluate the biological and technical life cycle, to understand the advantages and disadvantages compared to the triple bottom line* model and the SDGs to which the material contributes. This article reports the theoretical contribution related to the analysis. Piñatex is composed of 70% pineapple leaves, 20% PLA (Polylactic acid), 5% Bio PU (Polyurethane) and 5% PU (Ananas Aman 2022). PLA (polylactic acid) is a plastic material of…
Upcycled: Miu Miu limited edition to denim
In the panorama of companies taking initiatives in sustainable fashion, Miu Miu presented in a limited edition its fourth Upcycled collection for 2024. The Upcycled project, launched in 2020, focuses on vintage clothing to add more value to. The collection includes Denim, a range of essential jeans garments, characterized by floral embroidery inspired by the haute couture of the 1950s already introduced in the Spring Summer 2022 fashion show. Upcycled wants to establish a connection between past and present by celebrating the stories of those who wore garments, bags or accessories. The new collection features pre-2000 jeans sourced from global denim specialists, with a meticulous hand process to maximize fabric…
