Revitalizing Europe’s Green Fabric: The Future of Hemp and Flax (Linen) Production

Amid a growing movement in sustainable practices, Europe’s textile industry is revisiting its roots in hemp and flax (linen) production. These natural fibres offer a blend of environmental and economic benefits, from reducing carbon footprints to reviving local economies. In this article we will explore the resurgence of these fibres across Europe.

Historical Significance and Current Landscape  

Hemp and linen have been present in human civilization for thousands of years, with evidence suggesting linen use dating back as early as 30.000 years ago in Georgia, making it the oldest known textile in human history. In ancient Egypt, linen was so highly valued it even served as a currency and was a symbol of light and purity, prized for its coolness and breathability in hot climates. During the Middle Ages, Europe, particularly Belgium, the Netherlands, and France, became centres of linen production, benefiting from their favourable climates.

In Europe, hemp was a common crop until the late 19th century when it began losing ground to cheaper imported fibres, such as cotton and, later, synthetic alternatives. The decline in hemp cultivation was accelerated by political and economic shifts, particularly in the USA where the Marihuana Tax Act of 1937 heavily restricted hemp production. This legislation, coupled with similar policies in other countries, significantly reduced global hemp cultivation.

Despite this decline, regions like Flanders continue to uphold their reputation for producing high-quality linen. Today, approximately 1,500 farmers in Belgium cultivate flax, predominantly in Flanders, demonstrating a robust commitment to this enduring crop.

Today, North-Western Europe is the largest producer worldwide of linen. France, Belgium and the Netherlands together account for approximately 85% of the worlds flax cultivation for linen fibre production. The vast majority of this is located in France, which alone is responsible for about three-quarters of the world’s production of long flax fibres.

Sustainability and Environmental Impact 

Flax and hemp are considered highly sustainable crops, offering numerous environmental benefits which make them attractive options for eco-conscious farming and production methods. Both flax and hemp are drought-resistant crops that typically require less water than other major crops like cotton. Hemp, for instance, requires about half the amount of water than cotton does. Hemp typically needs around 2,401 liters of water per kilogram of fibre, while cotton needs approximately 9,758 litres needed for the same amount of cotton*.

Hemp and flax generally require fewer chemical pesticides and fertilizers compared to other crops. This leads to less chemicals leaking into local waterways, which can be harmful to aquatic life and ecosystems. Hemp also has a high resistance to pests and diseases, which minimizes the need for chemical interventions.

Linen, and hemp in particular, are both known for its ability to improve soil health. They have a deep root system that helps to prevent soil erosion and can return significant nutrients to the soil. This makes them beneficial for crop rotation, helping to maintain soil fertility and reduce the need for artificial fertilizers.

Both crops are effective at capturing carbon dioxide from the atmosphere, contributing to the mitigation of climate change and CO2 levels. The rapid growth rate of hemp makes it particularly efficient at carbon capture, which it stores in its biomass.

Furthermore, products made from flax and hemp are naturally biodegradable, meaning they break down into harmless substances that can be absorbed back into the ecosystem. This contrasts sharply with synthetic fibres, which can contribute to microplastic pollution.

Beyond textile production, both flax and hemp are very versatile in the way they can be processed for different types of products that can contribute to sustainable practices. Hemp, for example, can be used to produce bioplastics, and both hemp and linen can also be applied in construction materials (like hempcrete), paper, and even biofuels, which can lead to reduced dependence on fossil fuels.

Economic and Innovative Advantages 

The resurgence of flax and hemp is set to revive and strengthen local economies through job creation in agriculture and textile production, such as spinning and weaving mills. European initiatives, like the Alliance for European Flax and Linen, play an important role in fostering market unity and ensuring high standards across the continent. These efforts are complemented by local government and European Union support for sustainable agriculture and innovative textile technologies.

Case Studies and Examples

• France: The Alliance for European Flax and Linen is a driving force in the regional development of linen cultivation, promoting sustainable practices and enhancing market competitiveness. French linen is celebrated for its quality and eco-friendliness, with the country leading Europe and globally in both cultivation and innovative textile solutions.
• Belgium: Belgian linen remains a benchmark for quality worldwide. The concentration of flax cultivation in Flanders not only supports local agriculture but also preserves a vital cultural heritage. Efforts to reintegrate processing and production in Belgium aim to capitalize on the “grown and made in Europe” appeal.
• The Netherlands: Initiatives like the Linen Project, partnered with 1m2 Vlas project, and the Crafts Council Nederland, as well as collaborations with designers such as Joline Jolink highlight the country’s innovative approach to linen production. The 1m2 Vlas project, in particular, engages the community by engaging individuals to cultivate flax on small plots of land, promoting awareness and appreciation for the crop and nurturing a deeper relationship and respect to where our clothes come from and the amount of work that goes into creating a single garment.
• Italy: Italian initiatives, supported by the Alliance for European Flax-Linen & Hemp, promote hemp and linen as sustainable textiles. Regions like Biella, known for textile craftsmanship, are central, blending traditional skills with modern practices.
• USA: The USA Linen Project supports American farmers in cultivating high-quality flax, aiming to establish a fully integrated supply chain that mirrors the European model for sustainable textile production.

Challenges and Future Outlook 

While hemp and flax offer substantial environmental and economic advantages, they face several hurdles. Regulatory restrictions linked to hemp’s association with cannabis complicate its cultivation and distribution, stalling industry growth. Additionally, a decline in traditional farming practices means there is now a crucial need to re-educate farmers and develop new agricultural methods.

Competing with cheaper synthetic fibres and cotton remains a challenge. Consumer education and marketing are essential to overcome these barriers. Furthermore, revitalizing the flax and hemp industries requires considerable investments in processing technology, as the high costs of state-of-the-art equipment can deter potential investors.

Despite these challenges, the future of the hemp and flax looks promising. Increasing consumer demand for sustainable and ethically produced goods, coupled with advancements in processing technologies, could enhance the competitiveness of these fibres. With increasing global focus on sustainability, supportive governmental policies are more likely to emerge, facilitating the growth of eco-friendly crops. Enhanced collaboration between industries, governments, and academic institutions is also expected to drive innovation and market expansion

Conclusions

The revitalization of hemp and flax in Europe symbolizes more than a return to traditional materials; it represents a strategic move towards a sustainable and economically robust textile industry. By investing in these crops, Europe is not only reclaiming its heritage but also setting a global standard for environmental stewardship and innovative industrial practices. As this trend gains momentum, it presents an opportunity for Europe to lead the textile industry into a greener, more sustainable future.

Inge Duiker

*Source: EIHA, European Industrial Hemp Association

 

Photo: cover, Tsuyoshi Kozu; Sergey Semin; Micheile Henderson; Isabela Kronemberger