The essential: a key approach to sustainable fashion

For fashion to be truly sustainable, it is increasingly clear how necessary it is to limit the production and consumption of clothing to the essentials. A study by Zero Waste Europe (2023) explains the urgency of an approach of containment of the superfluous to deal with the risks faced by our planet.

According to the Kunming-Montreal Global Biodiversity Framework, the main cause of loss of biological diversity can be found in the use of the planet’s resources. For this reason, the framework sets the goal of equitably reducing the global consumption footprint, including halving food waste and significantly decreasing overconsumption and waste generation by 2030. Europe, bound by regulatory framework, is committed to a path of collective self-limitation. This implies the need to contain production to avoid exceeding planetary limits, ensuring that efficiency gains do not lead to an unsustainable increase in resource consumption.

“The environmental impact of the consumption of an average EU citizen is outside the safe operating space for humanity for several impacts, namely climate change, particulate matter, freshwater ecotoxicity, and resource use (fossils fuels, minerals and metals).”

Sanyé Mengual e Sala, Joint Research Centre (JRC) of European Commission, 2023

The EU’s Material Footprint per capita is now higher than much of the rest of the world, and between 40 and 70% higher than available estimates of a sustainable level, which is broadly consistent with limitation of environmental pressure within planetary boundaries (Meysner and Gore, Ieep, 2022).

Overproduction and inappropriate disposal of clothing contribute to the planetary crisis. Furthermore, excessive consumption, fueled by the fashion industry’s dominant business model, is at the heart of the climate, environmental and pollution crises. For this reason it is necessary to act on both production and consumption levels. In practice, we must choose the essential in both production and consumption.

“If increased material efficiency through longevity, reuse or recycling does not result in a reduction in the overall consumption of materials, the circular economy has lost its “raison d’être”.” (Zero Waste Europe 2023). A circular economy isn’t enough – we need to consume less (Wijkman e Potochnik, The New Statesman, 2023).

It is the same message launched by the British Fashion Council (BFC) which, based on a report by the Institute of Positive Fashion (IPF), asked the government, the British fashion industry and consumers to all work together to “reduce massively” the number of new clothes people buy each year. The goal is to reduce the demand for new clothing by 50% (Moore, Circular Online, 2021).

The consumption problem

In the European Union, the environmental impact of excessive consumption is evident in the unsustainable amount of natural resources used to meet demands. Overproduction and Europe’s growing footprint of materials have contributed to planetary crises, including climate change and pollution.

According to Zero Waste Europe (2023), the scale of fashion overproduction and consumption is staggering. With the purchase of 26 kg of textile products, every year the average European generates around 11 kg of textile waste, which mainly ends up in landfill or incinerated: only 1% of used garments is recycled into new clothing (European Parliament 2020).

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Our obsession with consumption contributes to the problem. “Every minute of every day advertising tells us that our health, happiness and wellbeing are dependent on owning a dizzying array of products. We apparently need to update our wardrobe, home furnishings or car with frightening regularity. Advertising increasingly assures us we can make these changes without causing damage to the climate or nature by choosing “environmentally friendly” options – an electric vehicle instead of a petrol or diesel car, for instance.” (Wijkman and Potochnik, The New Statesman, 2023).

Fashion, driven by constant persuasion to consume through digital advertising and social media, is a significant component of the excessive consumption that fuels the climate, environmental and pollution crises.

Buying the “right quantity”

To address this problem, the first step is to generate a culture of sufficiency, trying to limit the continuous purchase of new fashionable items and discouraging excessive consumption (Zero Waste Europe 2023).

Collective self-limitation, by containing primary production, is seen as a solution to avoid exceeding planetary limits: we must buy less and make it last longer.

The dominant business model of the fashion industry is based on persuasion to continually purchase new trendy items. In our purchases it is necessary to limit the superfluous and focus on what is truly necessary. However, quantifying the sufficiency of clothing and determining how many items are “enough” is an ongoing challenge.

According to recent research on consumption “corridors” for sustainability in fashion, a level of sustainable consumption is represented by approximately five new items of clothing per person per year (Zero Waste Europe 2023).

How much is enough? Two Swedish researchers, Göran Bäckstrand and Lars Ingelstam, tried to answer this question in 1975 in an article entitled “Hur mycket är lagom?” (Wijkman and Potochnik, The New Statesman, 2023). “Lagom” is a Swedish term that roughly translates to “just the right amount” or “enough”. It embodies the idea of balance, moderation and contentment. It is a concept deeply rooted in Swedish culture and reflects a lifestyle that avoids extremes. It can be declined into:

• Moderation; Lagom encourages a balanced and moderate approach to various aspects of life, including work, socializing and consumption. It’s about finding a middle ground without excesses or deficiencies.
• Community and equality; Lagom extends to social interactions and promotes a sense of community and equality.
• Sustainability; the concept aligns with sustainable living, highlighting the importance of using resources responsibly and not indulging in excess. It resonates with environmental consciousness and the idea of leaving a smaller ecological footprint.
• Work-life balance; Lagom is reflected in the Swedish approach to work-life balance.
• Contentment; Lagom is associated with contentment and satisfaction with what one has. It encourages people to appreciate and make the most of the present moment without constantly striving for more.
• Decision process; in various aspects of life, Lagom is reflected in decision making. It is about considering what is appropriate or sufficient in a given situation rather than opting for extremes.

Although Lagom is deeply rooted in Swedish culture, its principles have gained international attention as a guiding philosophy for a more balanced and conscious lifestyle. Even today we ask ourselves the “right amount” of resources, minerals and materials that we extract from the Earth to transform them into products that we may or may not need (Wijkman and Potochnik, The New Statesman, 2023).

A change of mentality

The transition towards sustainable fashion requires deep reflection on the concept of essentiality. Limiting yourself to the essentials is not just about reducing consumption, but also about a radical change in consumer mentality and in the industry itself.

It is necessary to promote new values that challenge the traditional concept of success and encourage consumption models based on care and well-being. Here are some key concepts on this topic:

1. Mindfulness-based lifestyle: Consumers need to be aware of their impact and consumption choices. Information on the need to limit ourselves to the essentials can change our perspective, pushing us towards more prudent and sustainable choices in dressing, as in other areas of life.
2. Minimalism in Fashion: Embracing the minimalist style in fashion means focusing on essential, long-lasting and versatile pieces. This philosophy contrasts with the current approach based on ephemeral trends and unbridled consumerism, promoting a more sustainable and long-lasting wardrobe.
3. Enhancement of Authenticity: Limiting yourself to the essential means appreciating the authenticity of each item of clothing. Instead of giving in to fast fads, individuals are encouraged to choose pieces that reflect their personality and resist passing trends.
4. Eliminate harmful choices and create a wellness-oriented economy.
5. Repair and reuse: Can significantly reduce the need for new clothing (Zero Waste Europe 2023).

The transition to an essential lifestyle requires changes in public policies, the promotion of repair and reuse, as well as the adoption of zero waste business models.

The culture of sufficiency and conscious living

In addition to “Lagom”, there are several interesting concepts related to the culture of sufficiency and conscious living from different cultures around the world.

Here are some:

• Wabi-Sabi (Japan): It’s a Japanese aesthetic philosophy that embraces imperfection, impermanence and simplicity. Appreciate the beauty and serenity in the natural cycle of growth and advancement of age, evidenced in objects and its impermanence by patina and wear or any visible repairs, emphasizing the acceptance of transience and the modesty of a simple, uncluttered life.
• Hygge (Denmark): It’s a Danish concept that encompasses a feeling of coziness, contentment and general well-being. It often involves creating a warm and inviting atmosphere, enjoying simple pleasures, and promoting a sense of togetherness.
  

  

• Ubuntu (Southern Africa): It’s an African philosophy that emphasizes the interconnectedness of humanity. It promotes a sense of community, loyalty, compassion and mutual support. The concept is often expressed through the phrase “I am because we are”. One of the most basic principles of Ubuntu is a moral obligation to others, including past, present, and future generations. In this way it supports sustainable living that does not impact the ability of others, including future generations, to live (Department of Geography, University of Sheffield, 2021).
• Friluftsliv (Norway/Sweden): It means “outdoor living” and is a Nordic concept that celebrates the connection with nature. It involves spending time outdoors, appreciating the natural world, and finding joy in outdoor activities regardless of the weather. Research suggests that experiences with nature that involve emotions and compassion are more likely to induce environmentally responsible behavior (Lumber et al., 2017, Chawla 2006, in Lund, JASEd, 2022).
• Voluntary Simplicity (global): It’s a global movement that supports the deliberate choice to live with less. It involves prioritizing meaningful experiences over material goods, reducing consumption and embracing a more sustainable and fulfilling lifestyle.
• Aloha Spirit (Hawaii): It’s a Hawaiian concept that goes beyond a simple greeting. It includes love, peace, compassion and mutual respect. Living with the Aloha Spirit involves a deep respect for others and the environment.

These concepts share common themes of awareness, balance, and attention to meaningful experiences over material accumulation.

The responsibility of the fashion industry

In addition to engaging consumers, addressing the planetary crisis requires a significant shift in the fashion industry’s approach. The culture of sufficiency is an important lever to also apply to business models to address urgent sustainability issues.

Limiting to the essentials means making sustainability an absolute priority. Companies must integrate eco-sustainable practices in all phases of production, from the procurement of materials to packaging, promoting an environmentally friendly production chain.

The fashion industry must abandon the overproduction model and adopt a need-based approach. Production goes beyond demand: 30% of clothes produced are not sold (Zero Waste Europe 2023). This requires a shift to business models oriented towards “zero waste”, where quality trumps quantity.

Will reducing consumer demand lead to job losses? Job positions in traditional manufacturing will decrease, but hundreds of thousands of new jobs could be created by adopting new circular business models including second-hand, rental, subscription and repair of old clothes that today end up in landfill (Moore, Circular Online, 2021).

All we need is to choose the essentials.

 

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